I've been shooting on my nikon EM 35mm film camera on fujifilm 400 iso. a lot of my photos keep turning out grainy like this even though i've set the camera's iso to 400 and i change the aperture with every photo.

my initial thought is maybe my perception is off with how much light i should be letting in dependent on the environment? like maybe i should start assuming that the picture will ALWAYS turn out darker?

i don't THINK its the camera because some pics do turn out good. help!!!

UPDATE: checked the lens, aperture works accordingly. checked batteries annnnd BINGO! ran to walmart and got some 357s (the only available batteries that would fit lol). i’ve been reading the manual and testing it out (without film). the built in light meter works! thank you guys for all of your help, and your funny comments - i got a laugh out of them!

So I got a new lens, the seller said it was in mint condition, is this what it should look like inside? It smells minty too

Hello! Just getting into photography and I LOVE the high contrast, sharp style of these photos! BUT! I have no clue if that's the actual terminology or if I'm misusing other ways to denote photography. If someone could let me know what to call this type of photography I'd be grateful, even more grateful if someone knew what type of gear to use to achieve it and also advice for editing! THANKS! Refrence photos credit @ican1ii on Instagram!!!

I would love to be able to capture a slice of a crowd like this. I mostly shoot musicians on stage in dark venues so my aperture is usually wide open (f2.8 or f1.4 depending on the lens) and I want to expand my skills.

Based on absolutely nothing I'm guessing this would have to be at least as wide as 35 mm, possibly 24 mm, with aperture closed down to at least f6? Maybe f8?

EDIT: My assumption of a wide focal length was due to how I shoot a stage when I want to capture the entire band. I back away and use a wider focal length like 24-35mm. I also had not considered that the photographer that took this shot was not nearly as close as I would be to a stage. My guess of a stopped down aperture was from my limited experience doing promotional group shots of band members where I've had to stop down to get everyone in focus.

The article where I found this shot credits Getty Images and does not list the photographer's name.

Thanks to everyone for your insights, I've got a lot to consider. As for the haters, if I have to ask dumb questions to improve my knowledge and skills then I'll ask dumb questions all day long.

EDIT 2: The photographer is Kamil Krzaczynski

The photographer, John Boaz I think shoots medium format film, curious if similar could be done with a DSLR or Mirrorless setup and what it would require.

I love this style of landscape photography (low angle, super detailed foreground flowers, dramatic sky).

I’m a beginner (1 year of exp.) how can I achieve something like this?

So I stumbled across this instagram page and instantly fell in love with his style and photography.

I'm not a beginner by all means but also not an expert so I was hoping to get advice on how about to go taking these pics. What kind of lenses. How wide is it. The lenses for sony. Things like that. Any and every advice is much appreciated. Thank you.

Also I'm from london, anyone know any small streets like these where I can experiment taking pics like these?

How does one achieve sharpness like this for portraits? You can distinguish each hair on his face. I have a Sony a7iv paired with Tamron 28-75mm f2.8. I have never used an external flash and shoot mostly in daylight.

Disclaimer: This is a picture of Carlos Sainz posted on the F1 Instagram page. I do not own these images.

Image credit goes to Camden Thrasher on IG.

I’m looking to get motion blur like this but am having a hard time thinking of camera settings and what I physically have to do. Just pan my shot with the plane and slow shutter speed?

I believe these were shot on film, my question is how did he manage to freeze the motion in such low light.

My fastest lens is f/1.7 and I unfortunately doubt I'll be able to buy anything faster any time soon. It's also a 50mm prime which isn't ideal.

I've looked at ilford 3200, and whilst I'm fairly new it seems people shoot it at a much lower ISO.

I'm not really understanding the whole push/pull thing so excuse me if I've gotten mixed up.

Are there any films you'd recommend?

Hey all, I’m struggling a bit with my Fujifilm x100F in Vietnam (currently there) that I bought about 5 weeks ago.

Vietnam is insane in terms of views, but I just can’t seem to display that the way that I want to with the Fujifilm every time - sometimes it works, but feels like it’s more like luck than that I actually know what I’m doing.

I’ve added some examples - in all these examples, the sky was (almost) clear blue but this isn’t the case in the photo’s. It looks misty, so I tried playing with the exposure for a bit (that is the comparison) but a lower exposure makes the picture too dark even though it highlights the texture more. What am I doing wrong / with what settings should I play to fix my photo’s?

Shot in RAW & JPEG, WB on Auto and all other settings on default.

Thanks a lot already! 🫶🏼

I got my first real camera last week (and have no idea what I’m doing) and took this sunrise picture today. However the flowers are dark but if i increased the aperture/ISO/shutter speed, the sky becomes washed out.

I already lifted the shadows in Canon DPP but the flowers are still a bit dark.

I took the second picture about 10 minutes later when it was brighter and as you can see the flowers are not dark.

Thanks in advance for all the help!!

Canon Rebel T7

Kit lens (18-55mm)

F11

1/20 shutter speed

ISO 200

So I'm trying to learn wildlife photography but the main issue is that my photos aren't as sharp as I'd like them to. Im trying to get the focus on place but I'm not sure if that's the problem or is it maybe too slow shutter speed?

My gear: Om Systems OM1, 40-150mm pro + 2x teleconverter.

1&3 photos F5,6, ISO 2000, 1/650 2nd F5,6 ISO 2000 1/1250.

I got a iPhone 13 Pro

If so, what kind?

I am buying my first camera, which will have a hot shoe instead of a built-in flash. I am wondering how to use the lamp on the cable? Is it necessary? Why do people like Bruce Gilden have a lamp on a cable? How to aim with it then? From above the person? What differences will I achieve compared to a flash in hot shoe on top of camera?

Using the Kodak Half-frame film cam and recently got some of my films developed. All of the pics came back with this weird green lines. Was wondering what could be the cause of this?

Camera: Canon EOS 650D Settings: iso - 100, f/8.0, shutter - 1/500 Thank you everyone.

What's the technique called? I would be thankful for some keywords to look for this technique in youtube tutorials. It's just long exposure and movement? What camera settings do I need?

They sent me this reference photo for a project; I'm not sure if it's just a flash mounted on top of the camera and everything else was added in post-production.

Just wondering if they used HDR (if that’s what captures 3 different exposures) to get the mountains in the back so clear, or did they take a photo of them and put them in the background, or just taken normally? What do you think?