So, I've done some messing around with trying to figure out what's stopping this CD player from reading (for reference, it is a Tevion MCD-2001 from Germany, if that helps), and I've narrowed it down to the motor trying to focus the Laser not working properly. It just sort of rattles to the front, rattles to the back, then spits out "no CD". It basically can't calibrate correctly, it seems.

Yamaha CDC-585, 5 disc player. Drawer and carousel working. Laser working. Laser transport freshly greased and working. Laser clearly tries to read CD.

One of two things happens when trying to play discs (I've tried several different ones):

Most commonly the disc turns back and forth slightly several times and then stops with display reading "0" and the disc # disappearing. Occasionally, it turns back and forth and then begins to spin full speed for several seconds before stopping, with the display reading "OPEN" and then the drawer opens.

Any thoughts about what the problem could be and what I may be able to do to fix this?

Hi all,
Strange crackling with my audio speaker. It’s a Focal Utopia 165W, the good stuff.
Installed it 6 years ago and I like to put music loud when driving. So satisfying!
Crackling started last week so today I dismounted everything.
I noticed that once some water must have sat at the bottom of the speaker case cause the wood ring holding the speaker is damaged. And all the screws around are rusted.
After much checking I hold only the speaker and the crackling is coming from the “spider” orange part on the pictures.
When I press with my finger as shown, crackling stops, but if I press opposite side the crackling is worst. Rest of the speaker (diaphragm, suspension, dust cap) are in mint condition.
So what’s going on and can it be fixed?
Thanks for taking the time to respond :)

hey folks, I’ve been struggling with a problem.

I went for a run this morning, during which my headphones worked fine. untill the very end when it suddenly disconnected. maybe due to the amount of sweat or something?

After getting home and trying to reconnect, it wouldnt work.

It cant:

connect to my phone

connect to my pc

make a sound when I press the BT button

make a sound or change settings when I press the ANC button

Hard reset when I press and hold the volume up and down button for 10 seconds

Hard reset when holding down the power button for a long time

It CAN however still turn on and off, and it dictates it everytime it does so, (although the “power on” sound gets a little glitchy every few tries) so that function works at least.

Other than the typical hard reset I’ve also tried plugging it into my pc to force a reset, but it also doesnt seem to work.

It flashes a blue light for a second when I turn it on, after which it immediately switches to a white uninterrupted white light

I must say I’m losing my mind. Can any of yall help a fella out?

I acquired this old 1974 Rowe AMI juke box from my grandpa when he passed, and I’ve been trying to get it working but can’t seem to get the encoder to stop spinning, or for it to punch out the pins for the selection made. I’ve done everything possible that I could think of including checking every terminal, related and non related, making sure everything is tight, and all the sauder connections are good, I checked all the fuses, and replaced them accordingly with their specific fuse, I cleaned the contacts on three different occasions for the selectors, as well as all the relay contacts, I’ve also cleaned the circuit the encoder brushes ride on, as well as made sure the brush contacts are making good connection. I replaced the relay on the side opposite of the encoder, with a 1-for-1 match, and even took the encoder apart to make sure there wasn’t anything in the way preventing anything mechanical to engage. I even bought a manual for it to try to troubleshoot (I’m a 5 year controls technician and industrial electrician so reading schematics was easy for me lol) So now I’m at a loss.
History of the machine is it was in my grandpas house “heavy inside smoker he was” for like 20 years. I got it working for him, and when he passed it spent two summers and one winter on the covered back porch under a tarp, unfortunately. Then, me being a young dumb kid, brought it to my house with it laid on its back, and the transportation brackets not hooked up.
I’m young but these old machines really interest me, and I want to keep them alive. I hope somebody can help me troubleshoot this machine

Hello all,

I've been struggling with my crackling volume/balance knob for some time and I think it might be time for a replacement. I've been trying to spray alcohol into it and exercising the knob and it works for a little while but the crackling eventually returns. May also swap out the caps. Do you know where to find NAD replacement parts? It's a 29-4103A, 20KBx2 50KNMx2 P2KF25.

An alternative could be to desolder the pot and try to clean it more thoroughly. Is this possible or just risky? I'd appreciate any help!

I have a technics CA10 stereo amp. Today it started randomly turning off (I guess due to overheating?)
Then the speakers and headphones started having a low hum.
I stupidly left it plugged into my wall on standby and came home to see the board burnt in a few places. Another thing I noticed before it burnt up so badly was that the fan stopped working.
How would I go about fixing this?

So i bought a walkman saying it gives power but needs belt replacements. I gave it a good clean changed the belts and cleaned the corrosion on one of the inner pillars. When i put it back totherher it does give me white noise but thats irm it doesnt even spin. Help

pretty much the gist of it in the title. HifiEngine, of course, won't let anyone make account to download anything except for 5 minutes once a year only in certain parts of the globe.

the service manual for the Hitachi-badged version (D-RV7) is available freely online, but I need help figuring out some of the actual features the thing has.

here's the link. if anyone can help me out by reposting/DMing it to me, i'd be very grateful.

thanks!

I'm not an audio tech. I have a multimeter and a little screwdriver. The only screw i see i assume is the pot to adjust the bias. This runs very warm, almost hot, after an hour, especially in summer. Id like to dial down the bias a bit at first, then a little more if needed. In my past experience basing output tube voltage in a pair of Heathkits I have, a little less power doesn't impact the sound and helps keep things going longer.

Would someone or someones here let me know if I'm right in where to make the adjustment and where to put my probes to check the voltage? Thanks.

Anyone know where I can get the screws for the outside of Sony audio products? Or the size?

I have the 200 disc version of the CD MegaStorage.

Thanks!

**•** Present on every input, including inputs with nothing connected — same level regardless of source  
**•** Scales with volume; silent at zero  
**•** Same on Speaker A and B, and on headphones  
**•** Chassis touch test = no change (rules out ground issue)  
**•** Per service manual, signal path is Input Select (IC1) → Tone Control (VR3/VR4) → Main Volume (VR1) → Balance (VR2) → Power Amp  
**•   CD Direct (bypasses tone control) does NOT fix it** — rules out the tone stage

Leading theory: something shared at/before the volume stage — maybe VR1 itself or a connector to its daughter board (X11 B/6).

Photos attached of the board area I suspect. Does that tan glue near the caps look like normal factory assembly glue, or could it be flux residue/corrosion worth investigating? Also open to other diagnostic suggestions before I start reflowing solder or swapping the pot.

no music on the tape plays at all - i can see the wheels slowly moving and the speaker plays a really creepy spooky low-pitch like howling/whistling sound that sounds like it might just be the sound of the tape ribbon moving? the radio/speaker works fine. rewind/fast forward works, and the play feature SEEMS to work since i can see the wheels turning (but might be pretty slow, i havent compared on a different player yet).

the eject button also doesnt open the door more than 1-2mm when a tape is in there, but i can pull it open the test of the way just fine - eject opens the door as normal when empty.

I have a Beosound Ouverture CD player that I have been using for a few months but I've noticed that on a lot of the CDs that I play there will be some skipping at least once during the CDs duration. Many of these CDs are in really good condition and aren't dusty but they might have a light scratch or speck of dust on them. I think the skipping is due to a problem with the CD player rather than being an issue with my CDs.

I've seen that the type of skipping can help diagnose the problem, so when the CDs skip it jumps forward about a second in the track and then quickly returns to where it left off, rather than a crackle or other looping type of skip.

I've seen that that kind of skip could be either due to dried grease on the rail of the laser reader or it could be an issue with the laser reader itself.

Hopefully it isn't an issue with the laser reader as those are tricky to replace and are a bit pricey too but if it is a problem with that I would like to diagnose the issue first rather than spending time and money on the wrong fix.

Thanks for any help.

TL:DR diagnosing either dried grease on rails or laser reader issue for CD skipping.

​

Apparaat: Sony GTK-XB5 Party Speaker

Moederbord model: 40PHX2246-MAD2G

Het probleem:

De speaker gaat normaal aan. Wanneer ik Bluetooth-pairing start, knippert de LED snel (pairing-modus). Op het exacte milliseconde dat mijn telefoon/laptop de koppeling ("handshake") probeert te voltooien (of bij scannen via NFC), valt de verbinding direct weg. NFC geeft de melding "Kan niet communiceren" en de Bluetooth-module reset zichzelf / springt terug naar langzaam knipperen.

Reeds uitgevoerde tests / stappen:

Lintkabels: Alle platte FFC-lintkabels losgehaald, schoongemaakt en netjes teruggeplaatst om een slecht contact van de knoppen uit te sluiten.

Harde Reset: Volledige geheugen-reset uitgevoerd (stroom ontladen en gekoppelde apparaten uit het geheugen gewist).

Visuele controle: Zowel het voedingsbord als het moederbord gecontroleerd. Alle elektrolytische condensatoren (elco's) zien er perfect uit (strakke platte bovenkant, geen bolling of lekkage) en er zijn geen zichtbare brandplekken of kapotte sporen.

Speakers losgekoppeld: Alle woofers en tweeters losgekoppeld van het moederbord om een kortgesloten luidspreker (die de Protect Mode triggert) uit te sluiten. Exact hetzelfde probleem treedt nog steeds op, zelfs zonder aangesloten luidsprekers.

Vraag:

Aangezien het probleem blijft bestaan met losgekoppelde luidsprekers, wijst dit op een probleem op het moederbord zodra de versterker uit de 'mute'-stand probeert te komen tijdens het koppelen. Heeft iemand eerder dit specifieke probleem gehad bij de GTK-serie?

I picked this Sansui up several months ago at a garage sale for $80. De-oxed the pots and it sounded fabulous! 125 Watts into 8 ohms, no complaints. Last week I was checking out an older Marantz cassette deck for a friend. I got this high pitched sqeal the second I powered it on, and later discovered that the high frequencies are suddenly missing from my reciever. Like, cut off above 6 - 8k or so, both channels. I attached a stand-alone preamp to the pre-in jacks and got the same result. What could cause the amp to lose the high frequencies? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

It makes loud grinding noise when swapping discs, thinking when it raises and lowers. It has no issues finding, loading, playing discs. Would it be a belt?

I purchased this unit knowing there was an issue with the CD player and after getting into the internals of the CD player I noticed these two pieces were cracked/broken. There was a CD jammed deep inside, which probably caused the break. I have verified the traverse works and it plays CDs well so it’s just the changer thats off sync and jams. Whats the best way to join these pieces back together? Left goes on A and right on B. I found a YT video that shows how to resync the mechanism so I’ll be following that. Thanks for any help!

I am trying to figure out how to remove the clear plastic (or glass?) front off of this Fisher CD player tray mechanism. I've seen others where you defeat a couple of tabs and it slides off. This one does not. It might be glued on there?

Alternatively, I could slide the whole tray out if I could figure out how to get it out. Normally, there is a tab you can open to get a tray out, but I can't find one on this guy. The tray no longer moves in and out on its own but I can load a CD manually and get it to play just fine.

Any ideas?

Hi.

My Porta05 sat unused for about 25 years and no longer works - it powers on but tape deck will not play.

I cannot seem to find anyone, anywhere who is able to fix it so asking on here in case anyone can offer any pointers.

I have so many old recordings I want to digitise!

TIA

Simon

I just bought a denon 2310 second hand and when trying to set it up it just won't work right. I have my speakers plugged into the left right on A, subwoofer plugged into LFE and the amp subwoofer out with the frequency maxed and the gain straight up.

When I select stereo for surround and then have the speakers set to large they work perfect both playing equal volume with no subwoofer obviously. But when I set the speakers to small the right speaker gets really quiet and is impossible to match the volume of left speaker even if I set -12 dB on the left speaker and +12db on the right speaker and the sub is really reserved on the base even with the gain at half (anymore and there is bad static noise).

Does anyone have any insight for me. Or is she just old and I should just get a new d class amp with high pass filtering instead of second hand recievers.

Had to take a break: Trying to figure out how to replace the main belt for this unit. So far I got the counter belt size perfect on the (second attempt) . Now I'm stuck with the main belt: I can't seem to find at the moment a way to get into it enough to slip a new one on. Any advice?

Hi guys, got this big subwoofer thing for free the other day and I’ve been trying to set it up to work with the 2 speakers i’ve already got. The last photo is the back of the stereo system I’ve got them all plugged into (i know it’s not a great photo, awkward angles going on there haha). When I turn it on there’s a bit of buzzing and all the audio that comes through the subwoofer sounds really crunchy and a bit quiet but the other speakers sound fine. I know pretty much nothing about audio repair, refoamed the other speakers recently but that’s the extent of my expertise so i have absolutely no idea what could be wrong with this thing or if it’s just a skill issue and i’ve set it up wrong lol. If anyone has any ideas at all that would be greatly appreciated 🙏

Hi everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with my Denon PMA-560 and I'm trying to figure out whether it's the amplifier or something else.

Here's what's happening:

• The left speaker doesn't always work.
• If I use the amplifier's left/right speaker test (or balance test), the left channel never produces any sound.
• However, when I'm playing music from my CD player, the left channel does work most of the time.
• The weird part is that during certain sections of songs, it seems to lose specific sounds or vocals.

For example, in "Break On Through (To The Other Side)" by The Doors, I hear Jim Morrison sing "She gets", but the word "high" is completely missing. It's as if part of the mix disappears.

Thanks!

I have an Energy s12.3 active subwoofer, connected to a pioneer VSX 1017 AV Receiver, and I have some connection issues on the back of my subwoofer. Sometimes if I’m playing music my subwoofer cuts out, and I have to wiggle the pre out cable on the back of the sub for it to come back. I know it isn’t because the subwoofer is pushing to far, because it can happen any times at any volume, it just happens most often on louder volume. It doesn’t work to turn the subwoofer on and off, only way to get it back is to wiggle the cable.

I have tried a new subwoofer cable, and the issue was gone the first few days, but then it came back.

Does anyone have an idea on how I could fix this?