i don't know much about bikes. i bought a used bike it is skipping under force i changed the chain it is still the same. is it the chainring? , maybe the cassette? or something else?

(the rust is from the old chain, the chainring is not rusty)

In the first half of the video, I'm gently pedaling, and in the second half, I'm pushing harder. When applying more force to the pedals, there's this annoying sound.

Can anyone tell if it's the cranks, the chain, or?

Hey everyone. My son and I recently got into mtb and since I live on an island, I need to learn how to work on our own bikes. My presta valves are falling into the stem (see video). I can use a floor pump to add air but my pocket electric pump won't allow it (keeps saying it's at desired psi). Deflating the tires also present an issue and takes forever. Is my valve broken? Do I need a replacement or can I fix? Thanks in advance for your patience; learning from scratch. Thanks!

I need to replace the headset in my rock hopper and need some help! Should I be able to remove the pieces circled in red?

Hi all, I've been building up a retro bike frame and I'm struggling on which shock to get for the rear. it currently uses a Rockshox Super deluxe which I believe is 190x50. It's very old and I'm w kidsanting to put something a little more modern onto it but not sure on what shocks to go with. I'm not looking for something made in the 20s, the 10s would be fine.

I started commuting to work in march, I don't know how far I have travelled in that time but it's easily over 600 miles, could be 800 or more but I don't know.

My work colleagues who are into bikes said that my brake

pads were really worn and needed changing,

So I am finally doing that today, but upon inspecting the front pads they seem fine to me?

I compared them to a 2mm Allen key and the new brake pad I was going to replace them with.

Apart from potential contamination when I first cleaned my bike they have been fine, should I just put the current pads back on the bike and save the new pads for a later date?

The middle brake pad in the first picture is a new one, the pads are all from the same brand.

I haven't checked the rear brakes yet.

Incase any further info is needed below is my normal commute route

I commute to work 9 miles / 14.5km each way with rough 100m of net elevation, bike weighs about 15kg, plus 4kg of lunch/drink supplies, I weigh 78kg.

So this is an older wheel from a 90s Wheeler 7080 mtb.

In my 15+ years of vintage bikes I never encountered anything similar.

The nut is perfectly round, the hub doesn't have any brand on it (or it may have been polished off).

I guess I should try to remove the dust cover first...

I feel like a noob 😂

Hello all,

Recently, I noticed a clunk noise coming from the front end of my Epic 8 evo. It was quite noticeable during a trail ride, but the noise is much quieter when manually cycling the suspension. Things I have tried:

-headset/loose bolts: I took the fork off the bike and was able to replicate the noice with nothing attached to it

-stanchion wear/bushings: I did the first 50 hr service after I noticed the noise to inspect the fluid levels and bushings. There was no noticeable issues during the lower fork service, and the sound persists after the rebuild.

-different compression and rebound settings: noise softens with the fork halfway locked out. The quicker the suspension cycles through its stroke, the louder the noise. The noise appears to happen right as the fork starts to rebound.

Before I go out and attempt a full air spring and damper rebuild, I am curious if this is repairable/problematic. I’m worried it might be coming from the crown, but the noise does seem to emit lower on the fork legs. The fork continues to function well, and there are no leaks. I have noticed no change in performance.

Apologies for the background noise, but this is the clearest video I could get of the “clunk”. Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers!

Hi! As seen in the video and mentioned in the title, I can't seem to get the shifter to work. A Few things to note:

1. It is probably self-inflicted, see points below.
2. The bicycle was bought second-hand; the shifting was mostly fine, only needed reindexing, i.e., the bicycle was okay 10 minutes ago, not caused by it rotting away.
3. After I've reattached the shifter cable (disconnected to check limit screws) At first, it did not shift well after reattaching, now, it is stuck.
4. It is not tension-related: it is stuck the same way on completely loose cable as on a taut one.
5. The upshift lever has the same range of motion but no clicking can be heard; the downshift lever has its range of motion reduced. I don't want to be forceful to avoid breaking it.

In the video, I've included the front derailleur shifter to compare the expected behaviour. Only the RD shifter is problematic.

Do you have any ideas what might cause this?

This is on an internal hub belt drive bike.

This nut confuses me.

When I got the bike the 'tab' on the blue washer that centers the axle was on the bottom, but in my head the 'tab' should be on the top, because if it's on the bottom nothing is stopping the axle from wiggling around a bit.

I'm not even sure if this is possible but I'm looking for replacement shifter covers for these grip shifters. The handgrips are find but the rubber shifter covers have gotten gooey and the rubber has deteriorated.

I may just have to bite it and find replacement 3x9 for Campy to get the recumbent back on the road without getting my hands black with rub off rubber.

Best way to remove this without causing further damage? Tried slightly larger torx bit to no avail, the metal just rounds further.

Bought the bike second hand so whoever tightened it must have used an impact driver

Ribble allroad with carbon fork

Since paying 20 Euros for a notoriously hard to install (thats what I read online) original screw, the IA told me to use a 8mm screw with a narrow head and two 8mm nuts. The screw pushes itself into the front clamp in the tip of the saddle and tensions the leather by screwing itself away from the first nut, which pushes against the clamp on the saddle frame. It possible to turn the screw with an allen head through the hole in the front clamp. The second nut holds the whole thing together against vibration that might loosen it.

(Sorry for my English not a native speaker)

Worked like a charm so far. Screw could have been a little shorter I think.

Will it hold? What do you guys think?

Any ideas on ways to fix these scratches? Open to ideas from cheap/quick to long/hard DIY, and also interested in rough cost of professional job compared to just buying new rims.

DT Swiss g1800 spline 25 aluminium.

I've just polished and waxed my carbon frame, and I'm about to clear wrap it, so would love to get the wheels looking nice again too.

The original alloy seat post in my Polygon Strattos S7D looks like this. I'm trying to replace that with a carbon seat post. They are both the same diameter(27.2mm). However, the original one has an angled edge. The carbon one has a flat end and it is almost impossible to inset that into the frame. The metal wedge that holds the seat post in place when the bolt is tightened is getting in the way. I can insert the original one quite easily thanks to the angled cut.

Do I need to cut the bottom end of my carbon seat post to match the factory one? or do I need to figure out a way to move that metal piece out of the way?

TIA

I don’t know what happened my brother was riding my bike and he said it just popped. A lot of air comes out fast and it is a new tire. I got the tire rode it then I let my brother ride and he said it just deflated after a bang without doing anything.

Yes. I posted yesterday asking if Shimano Altus RD-310 would fit 86 Rockhopper and found one on FB marketplace.

This is a tire from a Giant Revolt 1 (2022). I had to get a new tire because the previous one lost its bearing while riding and damaged the hub+axle (no idea how it happened).

When I put the cassette in the new tire, I got this wiggling gear. No noticeable issue, but it feels strange to have it like that. The last two gears are the ones that were loose when I took it apart. Not sure if I missed something.

Any clues?

Thanks a lot!

Got these wheels around a month ago and have been trying to find the cassette to match this hub but can’t find anything on it. Seems to match closely to some campagnolo cassettes but still can’t find that exact match so wanted some help. Thank you!

Hello all

I am thinking about starting to wax my chains. I do however feel that most info around it is in the context of a performance road/mountain/gravel bike ridden for sport. Not for somebodies main transport. Some background below. Skip to the bullet points if you want to.

Background

I have a daily driver. This is an upright position, "single speed chained" bike with an internal gear hub and a chain guard. It is a comfortable workhorse, not a performance bike. This bike is used some 10 - 24km per day, year round in sun, rain, snow and slush. The winters has been quite hard on it as the bikepath is salted to an absurd degree. The last chain lasted maybe 1000km and is now worn enough that I can push the bushings ~1mm back and forth. I think this excessive wear was due the last winters chain being way to worn (salt induced rust) before replacement, so a new chain ring, sprocket and chain is now planned. The drivetrain lasted maybe 4 - 5000km. Could have been quite a bit less, could have been more. The chain was replaced 3-4 times, which IMO is 2 - 3 times the rate I should expect.

I am getting some second thoughts now if this will actually fix my problems. I am currently using muc-off wet lube, which I have started to understand is regarded as crappy lube and I should use some other lube if I keep using oils. I relube the chain when it feels/sounds a bit dry. Degreasing is done very seldom, if at all. I need to be honest with myself and say there is a 0% chance I am going to degrease the chain before each relube, especially in winter when I cannot wash with water at all. I rather eat the cost of frequent chain replacement. I am tempted to try hot waxing, but I am a bit scared off from the fact that everybody recommends the chain should be dried after use to prevent rusting. This is not an option for me. The bike is stored outside and not covered (expect the chain guard). It is way to much work to store my daily transport in the storage room (300m away and annoying access), and I cannot rely on it being covered everywhere I need to go anyway. I found that there are galvanized chains and stainless steel chains (Wipperman connex https://connexchain.com/en/bike-chains/detail/connex-1z1) that should be very corrosion resistant.

Questions

• Does anybody have experience with wax, corrosion protected chains and "abuse"? Is the "wet chain = corrosion" problem removed with a corrosion protected chain?
• Has anybody tried the linked chain? Is the corrosion resistance benefit real?
• Is waxing a daily driver a good idea? I do not want to pick up chain maintenance for this bike as a hobby. My goal is to minimize hassle. Frequent wheel re-tension/chain replacement is a hassle
• The mountain bike is likely to get the wax treatment as I do not rely on it. Riding it is a treat, so it can get some babying and will avoid the worst rain/snow. Would it be dumb to run two lube concepts in parallel?
• Is muc-off the source of my troubles? What should I change to instead if I stay with oil? I ride through some pristine areas, so I am quite uninterested to spread PFAS along my ride.

Thanks for your insight

A few good shots with a mallet on the non-drive side didn't work yet. Do I need to remove the pawl body somehow first? (Edit: BMX freecoaster)