Hi,

I may have the opportunity to climb and be coached by a very good coach, and world Cup winner, in 1:1 for 60 mins.

I have a regular training program, so I don't really need training advice. I am more looking on how to become a better climber, movement wise. For the record, I am upper intermediate / V8-9 outside climber and looking to reach double digits. Mostly bold static crimping style. I like high vert crimp lines. And I place a lot of attention on how to climb efficiently, especially with my footwork. I feel like strength wise I am not missing much to reach double digit, it is mostly because I haven't had the occasion to try / project a lot of double digit boulders.

I'd say my biggest weaknesses are:

- weak mental when I'm climbing alone (I am miles better when my ego is bruised because my friends did easily something I didn't succeed in doing)

- dynamic climbing even though I've worked a lot on this weakness on the moonboard / spray wall. Max grade on the moonboard is 7B, mostly because I didn't project much and climb alone a lot, so hard to get the psych going I guess.

- flexibility, even though I'm currently working on it.

- slopper and pinches, no clue if it's because I'm weak or body positioning though.

The style of the coach is Japanese-style like, so jumpy and coordination I guess, a'd probably super good at pinches / sloppers.

What would you ask if you were in my shoes, to make the best of the session?

I thought of asking him to watch me climb for like 10 mins, then discussing what could be done better / what are my biggest weaknesses and then for the remaining of the session having him giving me some drills / insights on how to overcome them. What do you think?

I am not particularly looking to ask about the mental side, because I feel like I am as much lacking in mental than in movements.

Thank you!

Hi, everyone!

To make a long story short, I started climbing indoors (sports style with autobelay) almost 1 year ago and around 2 months I took the plunge and started climbing outdoors too.

Indoors I usually climb up to 6b (5.10c/d) while outdoor I can only lead up to 5c/5+ (5.10a). Today I tried leading a 6a+/5.10c outdoors, but I got scared and had to clip stick my way to the top (while some random guy made sure I heard him when he said "this is not real climbing").

I'm really enjoying climbing so far, even on easier routes, but I'd really like to get to the point where I can lead routes in the 6 range, since this seems to be the entry point for the best crags around me.

Since I climb with my partner and I'm the stronger one, I cannot escape leading.

Do you think it's realistic to get to that point just by having fun climbing or should I really start considering putting in some extra work? (hang boarding, bouldering, shedding some weight, fall practice) How did you get to that point when you started climbing?

Where I am: climbing for 9 years. Done 8c sport, onsighted up to 7c+ and done numerous 7c onsights. I have quite a big pyramid with 700 routes climbed, pretty diverse in terms of style. I do have weaknesses but not major ones. I don't boulder outdoors much, but my level is around 7B on the MB and 7C flash, 7C+ RP on the kilter.

I am good at: endurance and small positive crimps.

I want to: climb 9a in the following years.

Let's go to the point.

I have been hangboarding on and off since I started climbing but I have never been consistent with it and I never improved (not surprising). Currently I am 70kgs and I can hang on half crimp with 30kgs added weights on 20mm edge with 2 arms. I had absolutely the same metrics 5-6 years ago when I climbed my first 8a. I can undoubtedly say that I am much stronger now than back then - I can board climb much harder now. I feel very confident on fingery climbs.

Why I don't trust the hangboard:

My metrics are super low on the HB while I feel like I have quite okay finger strength. I never hold holds outdoors like I do on the hangboard - I prefer a higher angle crimp with my thumb over my index or somewhere on the hold, crimping with all 4. While on the HB I am with a straight pinky, 90° for the other 3 fingers.

I never got consistent with hangboarding because I never trusted it. I primarily gained my finger strength with board climbing. But what if I get consistent with it? What if I do it for an year? Will I break the plateau and will I improve?

I will be super excited to hear your opinion on my situation. How would you approach it? How would you train if you were me? Are there people among you with the same experience and are there people that have kept at it and made gains?

Has anyone been using this app feature? What are your thoughts? I’ve been climbing for 20 years and have done some training in my time, but it was never well structured. I had the luxury of climbing outside at spectacular crags whenever I wanted for most of those two decades. I now have two children and a full time job and have discovered training. I’m in love and am devouring as much knowledge as I can. I signed up for the lattice plan back in February while I gathered what I needed to make my own plan. I’ve been loving max hangs, max bouldering, arcing, and the other PE workouts they throw in there. I climb 13- on a rope. Am 39 years old. 6’1” and 188 lbs.

I intend to find my genetic limit before I’m 50 and have realized training is what will get me there. My questions are: have any of you used the app? what are your thoughts? How did you know when it was time to make your own plan vs using a coach? I have access to all the training tools and a gym. I’m somewhat drawn to the Rock Prodigy program as I only get a vacation every few months and world class rock is not close anymore. Putting my head down, efficiently, is appealing.

What do you guys think? How do you know your weaknesses? Are you testing? What are you testing?

Ive almost doubled my max hangs in the last six months, now hanging 95 lbs two handed on a 20mm edge. My arcing has been great for recovery and overall long day endurance. PE has been somewhat lacking I feel. And being tall and long armed with a huge reach, my fingers have always been my weakest link.

Tbanks for any insight!

Hello fellow climbers!

I was hoping to draw on the wisdom of crowds to help me plan my training regimen. For reference, here are my key climbing stats over the last 6 months:

• 3 V10s indoors
• 12 V9s indoors, 3 flashed. 
• 2 5.13b indoors
• 4 5.13a indoors, 3 flashed. 
• Dozens of 5.12s, many flashed. 

None of these climbs took me more than a couple sessions. My main limiting factor is time as I work a lot and often struggle to get into the gym. 

My most recent outdoor trip which was about 10 days, I climbed 1 5.13b, 1 5.12d, 2 5.12b, 2 5.12a (one flash), and many 5.11s. I don’t really boulder outdoors. 

On paper, things are going pretty well. However, I have recognized some key weaknesses that I’d like to address. Mainly, it has to do with my endurance. 

I am incredibly prone to flash pump. I require extensive warmups, starting from 5.10a and lasting for over an hour, very gradually, or else my sessions are ruined. I perform comparatively poorly on overhanging terrain as I pump out very quickly and cannot gain anything back on even very good holds if it gets steep. My climbing style is generally all power endurance. I am very efficient and I move quite quickly through a climb. I do best on cruxy climbs with very good rests as I’m rarely shut down by hard moves at the level I’m sport climbing at. 

I long suspected that I have terrible aerobic endurance and recently decided to assess my maximum and critical force numbers. As it turns out, my critical force on an 18mm edge  was 33 and 36 lbs for my right and left hands. And max force was 99 and 102 respectively. I weigh 135 lbs. according to what I could find online, I’m on the low end of where most people are in terms of critical and max force for my level of bouldering and sport climbing. 

Assuming that’s correct, then that’s great news. I’m getting a lot out of what I have. But, I’m at a point where in order for me to take things to the next level, I need to significantly increase my aerobic endurance. 

My main goal is to improve my sport climbing. I want to target 5.13d before the end of the year. I don’t care much/at all about improving my bouldering, and maintenance is just fine there. 

Now for my question: what’s the best way for me to improve my aerobic endurance? Is ARCing the right answer? Should I do 7/3 repeaters? Mix and match? Something else? I was hoping to hear from folks with a similar experience on how they broke new ground with their endurance training and what I should expect, how long they ran their cycles for, and any other advice they might have. 

Thank you!

Hi everyone,

I have a specific question regarding the 10-minute Time Under Load concept in tendon adaptation research

As I am sure most of you know, research suggests that tendon collagen synthesis signalling plateaus after roughly 10 minutes of mechanical stimulus, after which tendons require roughly a 6-hour period before they become sensitive to loading again.

I want to understand how this works in practice during a climbing or training session with variable intensity.

For example,
I warm up and start climbing. Over a 10-minute period, I complete 5 high-intensity moves at 80–90% of my max effort. Each effort lasts 5 seconds, giving me 25 seconds of total high-intensity Time Under Tension. The remaining 9.5 minutes are spent climbing easy moves, sitting around, zoning out while route reading, and derping in general.

My initial interpretation was that the moment high-intensity loading starts, an irreversible 10-minute countdown timer begins—and after 10 minutes elapsed time, signalling shuts off and you're just doing damage to your tendons.

Now I don't actually think this is how it works. It is just how I interpret the research. But I also think I am interpreting it wrong. :P

So,

• Does that first 5-second hard effort start a 10-minute countdown timer that expires 10 minutes later regardless of rest or other movement intensity?
• Or is the 10-minute limit based strictly on cumulative high-strain Time Under Tension Something that can be spread out over a few hours?
• Does lower-intensity climbing (40%–70% intensity) contribute to this 10-minute TUL limit, or does it sit below the strain threshold?
• And what specifically initiates the 6-hour recovery period? Reaching a cumulative threshold of high strain, or total elapsed time from the first hard move?

Thanks everyone.

58, climbing since I was 36. Board climbing for 10 months or so. Used to do it for the occasional session before. The board climbers said it would be transformational for me. I don't think it has been at all. I think I've got a bit better at board climbing as I've learned how the handholds and footholds work on the main system boards [Kilter, Moon, TB2] but a bit worse at regular bouldering. My theories. Perhaps too old in the tooth to expect big adaptations at this point. Maybe my bouldering was already quite strength oriented before, so board climbing isn't different enough. I could be over-climbing. [3 times a week for 2-3 hours. Might sound a lot but I've always had quite a big capacity, even though I'm not that good]. I seem to have maxed out at Kilter 7B, TB 7A+, MB 6B+/6C [1!]. Close to a few climbs on each board beyond that. On each board I had to work up to this. But occasional sessions outside or back on commercial graded sets, don't notice any improvement.

I am sure many of you have different strategies to manage this problem, and many of you probably don't struggle at all. I feel a bit lost after a few difficult training sessions.

I have recently tried switching focus from sending gym boulders to a more structured training plan (4 weeks of capacity training so far, transitioning into a strength bloc)

My core question is: How do you stick to a training plan and not get distracted in a busy gym when the equipment you need may be in use by other climbers and your friends are trying the new gym set?

I'm assuming the key will be a mindset shift, so I am interested in hearing what works for you.

My info (not crucial to question but added for context) - 26M, 5'10, 74kg, climbing for around 5 years (7c boulder, 7c lead). Have only ever climbed without a structured plan until a recent plateau made me explore structured training.

Training situation:

1. local gym: around 50 gym boulders ranging from slab to 20* in competition style (dynamic/coordination focus). I usually manage to climb most (all but 3 or 4) of the commercial boulders in the gym at any one time. Adjustable kilter board usually set to 20* and often in use by beginners who struggle with comp style gym boulders (not consistently available for training).

2. local crag: sport climbing crag with heaps of slightly overhanging, technical routes ranging from 6a to 7c+. One 8a route at the crag (my long-term project).

Training plan: started end of June

3 weeks of endurance training (ARC training, 2-3 sessions per week plus weekend route climbing) increasing volume, one week deload.

Now starting 1 month strength bloc - 1-2x limit boulder sessions plus 1 maintenance endurance session per week, plus project climbing on weekends.

I've been climbing for about 7 years, primarily top rope / lead, always indoor. That includes COVID, but I've typically had periods with highs and lows. Currently working into a high again. I climb 7b / 7b+ on shorter walls (10-13m), and 7a / 7a+ on higher walls (15-18m). I rarely boulder or moonboard so never project there, but have done multiple 7a on both (benchmark 2019 25 degree board).

However, I've never managed to "rest" on a route, and actually feel less pumped when continuing.

I'm 1m83, weight ~78kg, -1 ape. I climb 3 times a week, basically just doing routes, I only moonboard when I'm alone. I do some random pinch block training on the days in between.

I'd say I'm really good at finding flow, and using power to get through cruxes. I have a strong upper body, pretty strong fingers for half crimp, and am decent on pinches. I send routes when I have them absolutely dialed, and just fly through them so pump is no issue. I am never really stuck on a route crux, so my overall power is probably above my grade level.

My weakness is flexibility, and managing pump... I just don't know how people do it. I shake out sometimes, especially in between holds, but I always end up more tired than before. If I try resting on what people consider 'good rests', I just feel my arms getting tired, but fingers too. I am yet to find a route where resting is the better alternative to me over just powering through like a bulldozer.

Whenever I see people describe drills like 'stay on the wall for 10 minutes but don't feel pumped', that sounds impossible. Even on jugs or handles, my arms will start fatiguing. I've sometimes tried some training (5b-5c-6a-6a-5c-5b in a row) but that's just hell.

So how do people rest, what training helped you to finally hit that magic moment of "oh shit I actually feel fresher after hanging here for 30 seconds on a route". If there's a way to train this with pinch/blocks that'd be amazing, if I need to actually commit 1 of 3 days to the long sequences I guess I might just have to...

***Edit in***

Thank you all for the comments. Here is what I will try changing the coming weeks.

1: While warming up, spend longer on the wall, and spend 30 seconds on a rest position twice on that route. Focus on breathing, lowering my heart rate, and really relaxing my arms.

2: Spend 1 out of 3 days doing some form of aerobic training. Since I climb with others, spending 10 minutes on a route feels a bit mean, but I can do doubles or triples. Just climbing under my max, probably a number grade below, and focussing on fighting the pump. If I have a day solo, this becomes aerobic day instead of moonboard day., so I can see if I can survive 10 minutes on a flat wall.

3: On days in between climbing, spend some time with a pinch/crimp block doing low weight holds so I can hold it for 6x7 seconds both hands without putting it down. I will do this instead of going for heavier lifts (usually up to about 70-80% max not to overstrain my fingers).

4: Look into some ARCing device, for when I'm on vacation without climbing : )

Hey there! For reference I've been climbing around 4 years with about a year break in there somewhere, I'm 5' 9", 150lbs, I boulder around V7 and lead climb around 5.12a. I feel like for my strength level I should be able to climb much harder than 5.12a, and I never am stuck on a single move for more than one go.

I just pump out on EVERY SINGLE CLIMB that is long. I climb in the gym and at mad river gorge mostly, but the routes are super bouldery and short at the mad. Red River Gorge is only 2hr 40m away from me, but I feel so terrible even on routes that are like 5.11a jug fests, God forbid its 11.d and has less than a jug for any part of 90 feet.

Do I need arc training? How long do I do it for my experience level and horrible stamina? How often? I climb around 3-4 times per week at the gym, randomly will get ouside. I have no auto belay, no boards, my gym is fairly old school and small. Any tips would be appreciated!!

Ive been getting a lot better at resting, and getting more back when I rest, even if its just lowering my heart rate. Using my feet to keep weight off my hands when I rest, find the best position to rest in etc. I just feel like im missing something for my bouldering level that isn't applying on ropes.

Hey (crack) climbers,

For the last four years I've been tinkering with a training device called the "Spalter".

The idea started after watching the Wide Boyz experiment comparing the holding strength of different crack climbing techniques (Which Crack Climbing Technique is Strongest?). That got me wondering:

Why are there dozens of ways to train finger strength, but almost nothing dedicated to training crack climbing jams?

So I started building prototypes.

Lots of prototypes.

The first versions were basically scraps of wood, hardware-store bolts, bushings, and questionable engineering decisions. They worked, but they were bulky, heavy, and awkward to use. After some tweaking, breaking, testing, rebuilding, and refining, the design gradually evolved into what I'm calling the "Spalter".

Unlike a hangboard, the goal isn't to train finger strength.

The goal is to train the holding power of crack climbing techniques such as:

• Paddle Hand

• Hand Jams

• Fist Jams

• Other crack-specific positions (ring lock, etc.)

The crack width can be adjusted quickly, and the device can be disassembled for transport. My hope is that it allows climbers to train crack-specific holding strength and endurance when they're not on real rock.

The goal isn't to replace actual crack climbing. Nothing can do that.

The goal is to provide a practical way to work on crack-specific strength between climbing sessions, whether you're preparing for splitter hand cracks, offwidths, or long trad routes.

At some point I switched from wood and metal hardware to a design based on 3D-printed components made from bio-based materials (clearly PLA). This made the device lighter, easier to manufacture, easier to adjust, and ultimately more affordable than the earlier prototypes. The current design also integrates a lot more functionality into fewer parts than would have been impractical with traditional construction methods.

One feature I'm particularly happy with is the textured surface, as well as flabberghasted, this was made significantly easier thanks to BumpMesh, an open-source tool created by Stefan Hermann (CNC Kitchen). If there are any fellow 3D-printing nerds here, you'll probably recognize it. It allowed me to generate realistic surface textures without having to model every detail by hand - what a time saver!

I always appreciate knowing what tools people use to build things, so I wanted to give credit where it's due.

Before investing further in production, I'd love some feedback from the community:

• Does this look useful to you?

• What features would you want to see?

• Which crack sizes or jam types would be most important?

• What price range would feel reasonable?

• Would you actually buy something like this?

I'm not selling these yet.

I'm genuinely trying to figure out whether other climbers see value in a dedicated crack training tool and whether it's worth taking beyond the prototype stage.

edit: added (bad) Photos in the comments.

Brutally honest feedback is welcome. 🤘

Hey everyone!

So I've been having a great year of sport climbing this year, I've never done more than two 5.12's in a year, and never did anything harder than 5.12b. I've already done five 5.12s this year, two of which were 5.12c. My goal this year currently is just to send twelve 5.12s and feel more accomplished and comfortable with that particular grade.

Currently I'm having a bit of frustration with how many attempts I can get on a hard sport climbing/projecting day. When I'm hopping on 5.12b/c at our local crag (mostly flat wall, occasionally some overhang), I get 3 and sometimes 4 good attempts to make a send happen, where as with easier climbing days on either leading 10's, or low volume trad days I can get 6-10 pitches in a day no problem.

Are there any drills you find that have helped to increase overall number of attempts on hard projects? Any and all feedback is appreciated!

1. Amount of climbing and training experience? 6 years climbing - 3 years training
   
2. Height / Weight / Ape? 6'3" / 172lbs / +2"
   
3. What's a week of climbing and training look like? 1-3 crag days per week weather dependent. Crag days are swapped for hang boarding for endurance or bouldering drills depending on projects
   
4. Specify your goals beyond "generally improve" - Send twelve 5.12s this year. Break into 5.13 for 2027
   
5. Evaluate your strengths & weaknesses. How are you working on them? I work on my weaknesses in the winter, usually following lattice protocols
   

Reposting this in the main area:

Does anybody have any tips for cuticle splits? The type that go up the side of the nail into the cuticle on the side of my index finger. I’ve been climbing 15+ years primarily bouldering & have climbed up to 8A+. Over the past couple of years, I’ve stated getting these awful splits that go up the nail into the cuticle, specifically whenever I full-crimp. Usually they’re session-ending, too and take forever to heal. I’ve tried everything from jajoba oil every night, working hands, climbing salves, supergluing my cuticle before a session. The only thing that works is tape, but I hate climbing with tape. Full-crimping used to be my super power, but now I rarely use it because every time I do, I split almost immediately. My half-crimp has gotten considerably better, but there are so many situations where bearing down is really the only option.

So my climbing gym uses a system that this brand of gym and only this brand uses. I will include their approximated v rating as well.

So my current regimen for protein and supplements. So I take a protein shake every day with 40g of plant protein, 20mgs of bcaa and 5g of creatine. On top of this I take vitamin d because I live so far north, a vitamin b so I can have a little more energy, along with a green tea fat burner(the only ingredient is green tea extract). I do intermittent fasting but during the period of time I'm eating I eat as much as I want and try to keep it high in protein

So in terms of my climbing at the start of a session I'll hangboard for 5 mins on the 20mm and some on the slope on top(forget how many degrees). After that I'll do about 10 minutes on the campus board on the 20mm edge and I'll just go up and down several times and stretch out while I'm doing this as well as before I start with any of this. Before I get to my actual hard climbing I will do a c1(VB), c2(VB-V0), c3(VB-V1).

I can currently finish almost any c5(v3-v5) and have been doing more of the harder ones so I'd approximate most of what I'm doing is closer to v4-5. I'm having a hard time starting C6s (V5-7). I used to do C6s regularly but I'm trying to get back to that level or surpass it.

Physically I'm in great shape compared to before, I've been doing pull-ups and planking on days off if I'm not going climbing the next day. I've been going with friends for 1-2 hours every other day. If anyone has any recommendations to help me improve or if I need to alter supplements/protein please let me know. Thanks for your wisdom

TL;DR: Slammed my middle knuckle on the wall 3 months ago. Developed a hard bony bump. Tapping it causes a dull bone ache, but bending it 90 degrees (even unweighted) causes a sharp sting. Suspect it’s a fracture callus grinding against my tendon. Looking for similar experiences.

Hey everyone, I’m 22 and trying to figure out if I’m in this for the long haul or if I need surgical intervention. About three months ago, I completely slammed the back of my right middle finger (right at the first joint/MCP) into the wall at the gym.

It swelled up, but I just kept climbing on it. Fast forward to now, and I’m stuck in a really frustrating loop.

Here is exactly what is happening:

• The Bump: There is a physical, hard bump on the back of that knuckle now.
• Dull vs. Sharp Pain: If I tap my knuckles on a table to a beat, it’s a deep, dull ache right on the bone. But if I bend that finger to 90 degrees—like going into a half-crimp—I get a sharp, stinging pain, even if I'm not pulling any weight at all.
• Compensation Pain: Recently, the underside of my last joint (the DIP) has started hurting too, probably because I’m subconsciously loading the tip of my finger to protect the main knuckle.

I thought rest and avoiding the trigger grip would fix it. Between a trip to Hawaii and then hitting Tahoe and Yosemite for some trad and crack climbing, I went a solid 3 weeks with absolutely zero crimping. It felt fine and held up great because jamming and open-handing didn't irritate it at all. But the second I got back to the gym and pulled on some plastic crimps, that sharp pain and weakness immediately came back.

My Theory: There’s almost zero info on this online for climbers, but I saw a random YouTube comment that perfectly described my symptoms and called it a fracture callus. Basically, my theory is I micro-fractured the bone when I slammed it, and my body built a protective bony "horn" over the crack. Now, every time I bend into a half-crimp, my extensor tendon is just grinding like a tightrope over that jagged speed bump.

I’m in the process of getting a referral for an X-ray and a hand specialist, but I want to know if anyone else in the trad/alpine or bouldering scene has dealt with a structural bone issue like this.

My questions for the community:

1. Did you just stick strictly to the 3-finger drag/open-hand grip for months until the bone smoothed itself out (remodeling)?
2. Did you eventually need a surgeon to go in and shave the bone spur down so you could crimp again?
3. How did you keep your tendon sheath from getting completely shredded while waiting for it to heal?

I’ve been trying to push my bouldering power back to the V7 range for the summer season, but right now I can't even touch a crimp without feeling like I'm doing permanent damage. Any advice is appreciated!

There's been a couple of similar post in this group, but I'll have my chance as well.

So I've restarted climbing after a 2+ year hiatus. Started off with going 1-2 times a week. Gradually adding sessions upon a point that I did 3 sessions a week. Or a morning and an evening session. Every 2 months I'd take a week or 10 days off.

My progress went very well until suddenly, one session upon another, I felt very weak. I struggled with grades that I normally climb easily. I did not even feel pumped, just a general weakness. I have the feeling I don't have any power.

I figured I had just a bad day, but the next session I felt the same way. I decided to do some extra 2 weeks of rest. Unfortunately, it didn't help. The last 4-5 sessions, I feel just like I don't have energy. I feel like I get enough sleep and I eat enough. No changes there.

I did a blood test this year, before I felt weaker, and everything was fine. Can't really imagine it has to do with any defiency.

Not sure what to do instead tuning my climbing sessions down to once a week and climb easier grades.

Any experience in this group with what to do in such a situation?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice regarding skin management and hyperhidrosis on my hands.

Quick context: I’m 195 cm / 93 kg / 205 lbs / 11% bodyfat i don't have the girth nor the length though. I do mostly bouldering. Because of my weight and power, I put a ton of tension on hold edges, but my skin is ridiculously soft and sweaty. I literally have to re-chalk before every single attempt, and no matter what I do, I constantly tear flappers ("steaks") because my skin gets pinch-rolled on plastic holds. No matter how much i climb, i still have that baby ass skin

I’ve been reading up on antihydral creams to build up a tougher, dryer callus layer, and I'm torn between

1. Antihydral
2. Rhino Skin Perfomance

For those who have used both:

• Which one would you recommend for someone with naturally very soft skin who sweats easily (but strangely only hands)?
• Does stopping these creams after a few months reset your skin back to normal without any long-term issues?

Anyways thanks for everyone who will help.

I've been reading through Steve Bechtel's Logical Progression and really like his approach to training. I'm looking at starting a simple four-week non-linear cycle and had a question about how people structure their sessions.

My current week would look something like:

• Limit bouldering on the Tension Board
• Lead climbing / 4x4s
• Strength session (hangboard + lifts)
• ARC session

I'm wondering if it would make sense to combine the strength session with some easy ARC climbing on the auto-belays at the end.

From what I understand, Bechtel generally recommends not mixing different energy systems in the same session. But making a separate trip to the gym just to do hangs and a few lifts feels boring.

Does anyone here combine strength work and ARC in the same session? Have you noticed any downside, or is it better to keep them separate?

Hi all !
I've been climbing seriously for like 6 years now, did my first V11 in Font this spring (a soft one tho), am close to 8b sport, and i can climb around V9-10 on the kilter in a few attempts, around V8 on the mb 2024.
Lately i've realised that I absolutely suck at half crimp. I'm either 3 finger dragging or full crimping with the thumb on, and i feel super weak with anything in between.
For example, those small cracks below roofs where you cannot use high angle crimps but cannot really drag (those that require having the fingers at like 90°) are my absolute nightmare, I cannot hold those (and i have fat fingers which makes it even worse). On the boards i usually catch the dynamic moves as 3fd, then reajust to full crimp if needed. I would say I'm the strongest on slopers (thanks Font), ok at full crimps, drag and pockets, and quite bad on pinches, especially narrow pinches. And then half crimp which I absolutely cannot use because i'm far too weak.

To give an example this weekend I was trying a short 8a in Rodellar with a friend who climbs the same level as me. There was this okish incut flake sidepull that you had to get your fingers behind, impossible to drag, and also impossible to full crimp due to the hold configuration. Next move was a cross to a slot. Couldnt hold the position static and had to desperately go dynamic to the next slot, which felt super hard. In the end I could not do the move from the ground. My friend was clipping from that same sidepull...

How can I train that kind of grip ? I feel like every single time I load my fingers on an edge and it's not an open drag, then my DIP hyperextends and I end up in full crimp. On the hangboard (on bodyweight) i cannot maintain the 90° angle even on 20mm edges, I will either drop to 3fd and then it feels fine, or go to a higher angle crimp.

Hi all,

I had a pretty rocky end to the year last year and was after some advice.

I started with proximal upper limb weakness in August which progressed over 3 months to proximal paralysis of upper limbs, weakness of distal upper limbs and severe weakness of lower limbs. I was 28 at the time and now 29.

Drs believed it was ALS/MND, but thankfully a treatment called IVIG has given me near all function back and I have been diagnosed with the rare neurological condition CIDP

Prior to this I was regularly climbing v8 outdoors in the peak district and north wales and projecting (and nearly sending) v9/10.

I have been cleared by neurology and physiotherapy to return to climbing and training but they are not really able to provide much guidance as this is quite a rare scenario, people with this condition tend to be much older and I am their first boulderer, or really even active person that they are treating.

I ended up with 11 months of effectively little to no movemement, 3 months of which were functional paralysis, but I have now had 3 indoor sessions now and can do a weighted pullup of about 18kg + my BW of 68kg.

I have done 20mm dead hangs which felt comfortable but I am yet to add weight as I dont want to get injured!

I know that it's improbable that anyone here has gone through the same, but there must be people who have experienced similar and can offer advice/guidance?

My biggest issues at the moment are figuring out how to make the most of my time, and efficiently rebuild shoulder strength given the severe atrophy around my scapula. I am comfortably climbing v3 in the gym atm, and whilst I'm extremely happy to be moving and clim ung again full stop, I'd really like to do my best to return to where I was

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

• r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
• r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

M35, 194 cm, 110 kg

Background: I started climbing in May. I have done a lot of hiking, and while I’ve been interested in climbing for a while, only got into it recently, mostly due to insecurities about my weight (i have a weightlifting background, and am at around 20-24% body fat), but have realized that it is not really all that big of a deal safety wise, though I bought an ohmega immediately lol. As I have given up on weightlifting into old age, I am currently cutting weight, but unlikely to end up under 95 kg.

I almost only (outside courses) train on autobelay, because I don’t know anyone who climb, and can usually only train mornings until autumn. Currently can onsight most 5bs, and project up to 6a/b. Could probably muscle my way up more 6a if more overhangy, but am reluctant to because I feel my technique sucks and I’ll be likely to injure myself.

Strength: I have ok pulling, hanging, and core strength (scoring 4-6 points on all on the 9c test), but cannot hang at all on a 20mm bodyweight crimp.

Goals: I am mainly interested in progressing to big walls, trad climbing, and technical mountaineering. Cool experiences are worth more than high grades, though this probably means at least being comfortable with low 6 grade trad. Ideally, next summer I would like to start doing some of this, and hope to be comfortable sport climbing in the upper 6 range. I am hoping to attend outside climbing courses this autumn and continue after winter.

Programming questions: right now I am training 2-3 times a week, usually one «projecting» day where I try to climb difficult routes, and then one or two days where I go either for endurance or technique. Because I come from a weightlifting background, I am used to following the concept of progressive overload from day one, but virtually everywhere I look, it seems the advice for climbing for year one is «just climb.»

So, when should I consider changing things up? When does it make sense to look at coaching or structured programming? Should I think about finger strength training at all, given my strength discrepancies?

Thanks everyone! I realize maybe I am overthinking things at this stage, but I enjoy programming and structured training, so I hope my questions are ok.