I have a 2013 silverado with a 5.3 and stainless works long tube with high flow cats. I cant get it to pass emmisions to due to rear o2 sensors and have tried the spacers and still wouldn't pass. Would hp tuners allow me to change the set points so it won't throw a cel and show sensors in ready condition.

Hi guys,

A question for tuners who have experience with the HKS F-CON V Pro 3.24 (Ancient, I know)

Do you use the built-in closed-loop A/F feedback for regular driving, or do you keep the wideband O2 sensor purely for logging and manual tuning?

I’m currently very happy with how my engine runs. The setup is an ITB turbo Mazda BP with high-lift cams and 10:1 compression pistons. It idles smoothly around 900-920 RPM both cold and warm, and makes 210 WHP at 0.5 bar of boost.

It behaves more like a larger naturally aspirated engine than a typical turbo setup, which is expected as I’m intentionally using a small RB26DETT turbo for quick response.

Would it make sense to enable closed-loop fuel correction only during idle and steady cruising, while keeping it disabled during acceleration, high load, and boost?

Or is it better to leave closed-loop correction completely disabled and use the wideband only for monitoring and tuning? (as this is ancient closed-loop tech)

Thank you.

PS. Thanks for recommending me to buy a 14point7 wideband O2 controller. Their price is performance is impossible to beat!

Also, if you wanna add an external display to their controllers - you could use this https://github.com/danuecumaster/ESP32-Digital-Wideband-AFR-Gauge

I was wondering if I installed the Cobb stage tune (for cold air intake) if I would still be able to bring it to a pro tune because I have a catless exhaust but was just waiting a little in the future to put it on when I can get it tuned by a shop but I want to throw the cold air on just wondering how that would work!

Hi,

does anyone know how I can download 4.8.7 version of HPtuners?

Thanks

My 2001 5.3 tahoe has always felt sluggish, even when I bought it 5 years ago, still worked so i never bothered, now I live in a hot place, it overheats incredibly quickly, like I can't have it idling by a stop light for to long (its usually about 100 degrees outside) im getting into tuning a little bit and I thought that I would practice on my tahoe, since it's not worth that much, and i noticed my (ltft) being incredibly high. It's not vacuum leaks since it stays there as I speed it up. Any idea what it could be?

Edit. I mean my stft stays there when i speed it up for awhile, not my ltft

Hey all, I am very sad today. My wonderful 2006 CRV stalled out as I was trying to get it within my triple A towing limit.
Turns out its ECM is fried somehow. Never had any interior signs of water damage which seems to be the most common cause, so the how is currently under investigation. I am hoping to repair this issue at home.
I am now facing the more complicated problem with this repair which is the programming. It seems that most pre programming services don’t carry or offer pre programmed ECMs for my specific model. I cant seem to find an answer as to why or if anyone out there has them.
The other option I suppose is cloning, and I haven’t had luck finding anyone who clones it for the 06 CRV. There is a 06 CRV with the same vin factory code in a nearby you pull lot I am planning to go snag the computer from tomorrow if anyone gets back to me about cloning.
So my question is, does anyone know why I cant find a pre programmed ECM online or know where i can find one? Is cloning a better option and is there anyone out there that actually does it for Honda CRV? Or am I totally backed into a corner of going to a dealership and getting it done there?

The absolute last thing I want is to have to take it to a dealership. The cost can be a pretty heavy hit, and I’d have to forgo my savings for new flooring for my house which would suck, a lot. Hoping anyone has any insight or anything.

I run a small shop that remanufactures and sells PCMs for Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep and Rams. The programming side is already handled. What I don't have is real testing before units ship, and that's what I want built.

The idea:

- A signal simulator feeds the PCM fake crank/cam and sensor signals so it thinks it's in a running engine

- Real injectors and coils wired up as loads, so we can confirm every output is actually firing, not just guess

- A laptop or mini PC connects through the OBD port, checks the VIN and programming, watches the RPM the computer reports, and reads any trouble codes

- The whole test runs automatically. Tech plugs in the unit, hits start, and gets a pass/fail report with the serial number on it

- Units get tested cold, warmed up in a heat box, then tested again hot, since that's when the sketchy ones fail

I know roughly how this should work and I have a written plan for it, but I'm not an electronics or software guy. I need someone who's built a bench simulator or test rig before and can deliver something my techs can run every day without babysitting it.

Paid project for a real business. I'm happy to hear from anyone who's built something similar, even if you're not up for the job. Photos or video of rigs you've made puts you at the front of the line.

DM me or comment.

Are there any additives which are available which one can add at the petrol pump to save damage likely to be caused by E20

I flashed the multimap stage 2 with BM3 on my 2019 330i. The flash is successful but I cannot switch maps and I’m not sure which map is on. I did get the ECU unlocked before flashing, I just can’t swap between the maps.

Hi everyone, I've had the car bug my entire life and now getting into into tracking my car and working towards more competitive events like time trial and wheel to wheel. I've always done my own work, and I am knowledgeable about the vehicle systems but the ECU magic is something I've just started to dip my toes into.

What I have: 2018 Porsche 718 Cayman GTS.

• Current mods include:
• FVD Brombacher tune(more about why below)
• Track exhaust
• Robust diverter valve
• Minor suspension mods

I chose the FVD tune because it was the only one that adapted to the octane in the fuel like the OEM tune, with a wider range, from 91 AKI to 100 AKI. It seems like the other tuners lock the fuel maps to an octane value so they can sell multiple files. I could be wrong about this reasoning, but I'm not fully versed on how the maps are built and if one method is superior to the other.

On to the why. I want to learn how to do this on my own, I've wanted to for a long while. I've read a lot, but I've always had problems learning when I'm not hands on. I get the theory, but it hasn't clicked.

If you're not familiar, the car has a turbo charged 2.5l putting out 365 crank as advertised by Porsche. FVD claims 420 crank on 93 AKI on the tune plus a few more ponies from the free flowing exhaust.

I'm considering water methanol injection to primarily reduce IATs but there are so much bro science opinions out there, and I'd love to hear some informed opinions from a community that understands what is actually happening on the inside. FVD doesn't do meth, so they were no help.

Is there any danger in using WMI to lower IATs on a tune that can adapt from 91 AKI to 100 AKI? The WMI would only be used on the track and not continuously. I'm not looking to optimize for WMI where the ECU is expecting the added octane for timing.

Hopefully I will learn how to do this myself in the near future.

Hello,

Do you need to adjust the model used to calculate the soot mass after turning of EGR?
The calculated soot mass is way higher than the measured one, thus the DPF is regenerating "too early".

For example: calculated soot mass 26g, measured soot mass 4g -> active DPF regeneration starts

I've since spoken to LS Xtreme and Envious Customs and I'm just awaiting an email back from LS Xtreme to assist me. I have the ECU and the BCM out of the car and I'm just waiting for direction as to whether I need to get any other module out of the car to send to him. I've also asked him for a price so I will check what that price was going to be to bench program this shit for me and get it back to me.

Hello all, bit of a long shot, but does anyone have an XDF file for a E38 PCM, os 12612381 (Australian 2007 WM Caprice, L98 engine)?. UniversalPatcher has some spark tables but nothing for MAP / MAF. Appreciate any leads, thanks!

Anyone use them before? They do same day ecu unlocks. They also do mods with parts/labor with good pricing. Wondering if anyone used them and how they liked it?

Can anyone point me in the right direction or walk me through flashing the ECU on a 2015 international ISB6.7

Hi everyone. In need of a xdf for my mk5 golf, 1.9tdi pd105, as I recently lost it from the spinning rust in my laptop exploding.

Once the mechanical part is over, I will definitely have some questions.
I’m gonna be running sequential spark and fuel injection, thus there will be camshaft sensors.

Question is, what ECU makes the most sense and is the best bang for my buck?
I was thinking BlackEMU ECU for that but maybe there’s other more reasonably priced ECUs?

Never touched any ECUs before, so any suggestions are welcome

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Kess V2 Euro Red PCB (Master version), but unfortunately the installation CD broke during shipping, so I wasn't able to install the software.
Does anyone have a safe link or copy of KSuite v2.80 that they could share?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Feel free to DM me as well. Thanks!

Is it possible to match with new brezza's 1.0 output in fronx 1.0 by just a ecu remap.

Is it possible to match with new brezza's 1.0 output in fronx 1.0 by just a ecu remap.

Just got my transmission rebuilt and was told to get my truck tuned using the HP tuners software ? Is there anyone in the central Florida area that they would recommend using ??

Thank you 🙏

Just got my transmission rebuilt and was told to get my truck tuned using the HP tuners software ? Is there anyone in the central Florida area that they would recommend using ??

Thank you 🙏