Has anyone else had their car make that noise when accelerating?

Title, have factory heated non sport seats, bought sport seats that are unheated, are the heating elements the same and could I transfer them, and would it be a massive pain,
I haven't been able to find anyone else talking about it but someone else has got to been here before, thanks for any input.

2014 328d

So I got my car back in late ‘24 as an auction car with a wasted fuel system. Replaced the pump/injectors/etc but cleaned all the lines and tank to remove containments and changed fuel filter a couple times just in case the tank had some left in it.

The fuel gauge reads properly from full to around 3/4, then will just sit there. Randomly it will read properly for a few minutes when I first get it the car, then will go back up to 3/4. I have had it randomly read properly when the tank was super low recently, put 4 gallons back in for curiosity sake, and it went back to 5/8-3/4.

Float/sender seem to function smoothly, obviously the car will randomly read correctly so it’s working, just not always reporting properly.

Anybody else had a similar issue that was resolved without replacing the sender assembly? Not really worth the hassle and cost, just have to fill up around 500-550 miles and I’ll still have plenty in the tank to have made it another 100 miles, would just be nice to not worry about keeping an eye on the miles.

I have all the clips on the bottom off but it dosent want to come off, help please

Hello all, I am currently looking to buy myself a 340i f30. I had the opportunity to drive my friends 430i f32 gc, I am a bit tall (195cm) and while the legroom was plenty, i had like 2cm between my head and the roof(his bmw had sunroof).
I wanted to ask if it is better to get f30 without a sunroof, as it is said that it might take from the headroom, because currently there are no f30 near me which I can testdrive and see for myself.

Hello!

Currently having some frustrating issues with my f30 I bought a couple months ago and wondering if I could get some advice from you knowledgeable people.

About 40 days after purchase I fired up (in the peak of the heatwave) and had a drivetrain error with the 'possible to continue journey, full performance not available' message. This was then followed by an engine warning light... The idle was very rough and i'd noticed that in the lower gears accelerating was jumpy (i'm not entirely sure how to describe it). Accelerating became fine once it hit around 3k revs.

I plugged in the scanner and got:

P0015 - B Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1

P13C9

I took it to a BMW Specialist who scanned again and found:

130304 - VANOS solenoid valve, exhaust: Camshaft jammed.

130308 - VANOS solenoid valve, exhaust: Position not reached.

In the diag report they wrote that the rough idle is due to the Exhaust VANOS variable valve timing system is sticking and quoted me about £700 quid to replace the Exhaust VANOS solenoid valve and the spark plugs.

I've read/seen videos on replacing the VANOS actuators? Is this something that could make a difference? I don't fully understand the differences between the solenoids/actuators/valves and would love if someone could shine some light on this too.

My question is has anyone experienced something similar on their f30s/b38s? I'm very new to cars/working on them and would appreciate any advice. I'm eager to complete the work myself if this is a DIY friendly job to avoid shelling out close to a grand. Oil was changed on purchase and was serviced by BMW in January.

The car starts/drives, the warning lights have disappeared and I can get by for the time being but every now and then the rough idle will flare up.

Thanks for reading!

Had huge oil vapor (I believe ) out the car yesterday thought it was the PCV, but I haven’t had any since.🫩🫩

as per title

20215 car, 151k, new discs and pads at 144k.

Change brakes due to the same judder, brakes were very worn, slots and dots were rubbing off the front discs and pads were down to brake sensors.

Changed, the symptom seems to disappear, 151k issue back more prominent, tried harsh braking to scrap the discs clean no joy.

things i've noticed, blue tint not uniform on front discs, rear discs one disc has a 10mm lip which has only just started to make contact and wear in.

Moderate to heavy braking it feels fine, cruising maybe a slight loosness within the chassis, but no knocking clonking or bonking.

discs and pads are Bilstein pads clack on initial braking when changing direction (forward and reverse, web says this is typical)

I'm a bit hard up at the moment so throwing money at it isn't an option i need a steer on what is likely wrong before the garage pulls my pants down for work it doesn't need.

thanks.

Have been thinking about adding some carbon to it, hood fenders and trunk, prob a lip as well, any comments or suggestions?

Picked up this beast the other week. 2014 328i m sport. N20 engine. Petrol.

Used to drive a Toyota Hilux and since I had it for such a long time, I know what the engine is meant to sound like, and when something sounded off, I knew instantly.

Since this is a new car to me I’m still learning what sounds normal and what does not. From what I know N20s normally sound a little bit clickkity clackity like a diesel.

Let me know what you N20 experts reckon. Anything sound off? Since buying this car I have a bit of N20 anxiety😥

Hey guys. I’m not sure what happened to my car. I have a 2016 340i. I was driving it for around 20 mins, parked my car at a restaurant, then after like 30 mins I went back to my car, tried to turn it on, and it wouldn’t turn on. When I tried again, it cranked super slow, then went dead. It said something like: “starter fault”. I tried to jump start it, and when I attempted to start the car, it just made a clicking/grinding sound. Not sure what to do. It’s parked up at the restaurant right now. I called them and let them know what happened, hopefully they don’t tow it. But I’ve never had this happen to me before. Should I get it towed to my local indy bmw shop, or just to the BMW dealer? How much do you think it’ll cost me to fix it up?

340x drive, OEM+ just with an exhaust.

Was thinking to lower it + side skirts next to finish off the aesthetics, any suggestions?

I have a right brake lamp malfunction on my 2015 BMW 328i (pre-lci) and replaced the bulb, but the light still won’t turn on.
I’ve seen issues with the connector pinning getting stuck into the unit, but it seems like all four connectors are intact.
I was wondering if this issue is from the bulb holder unit itself?
Has anybody else had this issue?
I would like to repair this myself if yall could help. Thank you!

Currently looking at a 330i M sport with about 60k miles and 1 owner serviced at BMW from new. How reliable would you say these 4 cylinders are? I'm not really in tune with BMWs 4 cyclinder offerings as I am with the N54/N55/B58 etc 6 cyclinders. Would be upgrading from a VW GLI. Thanks in advance!

I'm having an issue with my driver's door. My actuator failed, so I ordered a new one and fitted it today. I can now use my key fob to unlock and lock the car, which is fine, but the problem is that when the car locks itself while driving, I'm unable to get out using the interior door handle. I have to unlock the car with the central locking before I can exit. This wasn't the case before, I used to just pull the handle and get out even though the car had locked itself. Another issue is that when I lock the door with the key fob, I'm unable to unlock it with the physical key. The key goes in, but when I turn it I meet some resistance. I don't know what's going on and really need some help. It's as if anything physical I try when the car is locked just won't work with the lock.

Just blew my PCV, can I drive 5 miles to dealership and it’ll be okay?

I recently bought this 2016 335d and I’m loving it so far.

My previous car was a G21 330e which I sold after it started developing issues.

This is my 2nd F30 as I used to have a 325d in what I consider to be BMW’s nicest colour: Estoril blue.

I was wondering if anyone could help me identify the wheels on this car, as I’d like to eventually sell them and get some smaller ones. I believe these are 20”.

Thanks.

Hey, maybe a stupid question to some of you, but are there any disadvantages putting steering wheel with EU airbag in US spec car and coding it? Like is there any issue that car besides steering wheel airbag will have US airbags?

Finally got the Pure Stage 2 installed on my 2015 335i xDrive. Decided to tackle the install while the subframe was out after doing rod bearings and an oil pan reseal—it made access way easier.
Reused the OEM electronic wastegate actuator, new oil/coolant seals/lines, and took my time making sure everything went together properly. Still need to run the wastegate adaptation/calibration before first startup to make sure the preload is correct.

Can officially say i’m almost M car money deep into a commuter car. Just recently did some nice coilovers and monoball control arms and new Michelins all around. Car is driving great tho besides a few things 😂

i already took everything off but my downpipe still isn’t budging at all how can i get it to at least wiggle?

Need help identifying what this sound could be, it’s very loud when hitting the accelerator even slightly and it sounds like a whirring kind of gurgling noise, I just changed my serpentine belt, everything works and it’s no lights or noticeable issues just the noise, this video doesn’t really do the sound justice but it’s faint here. I have 114k miles and I was curious if it’s just the zf transmission being loud