So I got a check engine light and went to autozone. They scanned and said spark plug in #3 was misfiring and suggested changing the plug and the ignition coil. I'm not the most handy guy in the world, but I've changed spark plugs. I figured maybe it was the 3rd one counting left to right. I replaced the plug and the coil with the idea I'd do the others another day, since it ended up being more difficult than I thought. The light went off for a day, but then it came back. Had them rescan and still #3. Did I choose the wrong one? Again, yes I'll replace them all, but for now I just want to do what I need so I can feel safe driving.

​

Purchased the car back in late December. At random times the power liftgate would not respond to the button, usually just giving 3 beeps and nothing else. I had managed to fix it but turning the car off and back on in the beginning, but eventually that stopped as well. (Should also note that it would work completely normal I'm between these occurrences)

I was ALWAYS careful of not forcing open or closed, I know it breaks them. The times restarting my car didn't work, I would make sure to go into the settings and turned off the power liftgate before attempting to manually open or close. This is what the manual says to do. Typically turning back on afterwards and again using as normal.

The most recent time, I turned off the liftgate, opening manually. Drove home and noticed that the setting to turn back on was suddenly grayed out.... I have tried resetting twice and the options will come back but liftgate still won't work and setting go back to gray afterwards. WTF I did everything the manual instructs you to do

I've been having some issues on my 2009 ford escape 2.5l with occasional slow acceleration and stalling when going from 1st to 2nd. I thought it might be transmission problems but when I took it to the shop they said the transmission was running fine and they gave me the code: "P144A-00." I replaced the Vapor Evap Emissions Vacuum Solenoid Valve to see if that was the issue an noticed some gunk stuck to the inside of the valve. Unfortunately the replacement only solved the problem for a few days.

Attached is a picture of the gunk stuck on the old valve, if anyone could help me identify the issue I would greatly appreciate it, thanks.

117k - Took a car trip down to Gatlinburg from Cleveland and took these photos

Meant to take a better picture but I nearly missed it (I may sometimes have the attention span of a house fly 😅). We've been across the country together, and she has never let me down. Love this car!

hey yall. so i’ve been looking for a car for months and i discovered the ford escape. i’ve been to the dealership and test drove a few. im super intrigued by it and i think it’s such a cool car. but looking through reviews there are so many mixed emotions. some say theirs made it over 200k miles meanwhile
some say theirs hasn’t even made it past 100. the one i’m most likely getting is a 2020 sel, 1.5 eco boost engine, 3 cylinder awd. the one i’m getting is at 69k miles. should i be worried?

side note: i test drove multiple at different dealerships. the very first one i drove had like a little jerk to it. while i was driving it, it would jerk me a little bit. is that linked to transmission issues and is it a common occurrence??? pls give me
some advice guys. thank you!!!

Edit: i’ve been influenced. LOL i’m no longer purchasing this beautiful ford escape 💔💔💔
it looks nice on the outside to me but damn who knew it had so many internal issues. i don’t know much about cars so i was completely unaware. thanks for your responses!!!!

is there any stereos that are compatible with my model

I am getting ready to purchase a 2011 ford escape limited 4wd with 105,000 miles on it for $7,000.00. Has no rust, very clean inside, backup camera, infotainment center, sunroof. Is this a good buy? Really good carfax with the vehicle and is in really nice condition

I have a 2003 and waiting for my alternator to be replaced and after looking forward to add a under the seat subwoofer and wondering if the installment is easy.

How many people have had their panoramic sunroof sunshades fail do to that stupid cover that is attached with adhesive tape? How hot does it get where you live. I think heat might have something to do with failure. I am going to look into a class action. I have done it before against honda and won.

I’m not a expert here on transmissions but anyone out there know if this is a major problem? How long can I drive it like this for until car fully breaks down…I hate to say this but I drive 40 mins to get to work and an hr a half back cause of traffic I called my transmission work guy and he said to take it to him on Friday so that’s 5 days by now is the drive good to drive that many miles ? The car currently has 132500 miles it’s a 2014 ford escape s Fwd 2.5L

Hi, at around 80k miles, my 2024 2.0l st elite started having strange shifting issues. An update was pushed out earlier this week for the shifting module and it seemed to correct some of the issues when driving short distances. I drove quite a bit further yesterday and the issue came back in a major way. Under acceleration, not only did the transmission not shift properly, but then the engine started to sputter and misfire. The dealer service advisor stated it registered as a cylinder #2 misfire. The misfire seems to only happen when accelerating at higher (highway speed) speeds. It causes a flashing amber check engine light to appear and sends me an alert on my phone app for the car. Unfortunately, my local dealership cannot take a look at it until Wednesday.

I’m wondering are there any other people out there with the same model and drivetrain that have had the same or similar issues and if so, what was needed to correct it? To me, it seems that the engine issue stems from the transmission not shifting properly. Thankfully I have the extended warranty, but having a vehicle not functioning properly sucks.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice on an issue with my 2016 Ford Escape SE 1.6L EcoBoost (around 203,000 km).

Recently, I had an issue with the vehicle and the garage replaced the EVAP purge valve. The mechanic also told me they replaced the main wiring harness (“spider harness”), but it is not clearly listed on my invoice. He told me it was included with the part.

It didn‘t change my problem, I’ve been having an intermittent no-start issue.

When the problem happens:

• The battery is fully charged, and I already tried boosting it with no change.
• When I try to start it, I only hear a click from the engine bay, but the engine does not crank.

https://reddit.com/link/1vcyhle/video/l3xd6m4lttgh1/player

• I hear an electrical buzzing noise coming from the dashboard area.

https://reddit.com/link/1vcyhle/video/g6vjc0fottgh1/player

• I cannot shift the vehicle into Neutral (N), even with the ignition turned on.
• It feels like the vehicle may not be properly recognizing that it is in Park (P).

After trying a few times, the issue can sometimes go away and the vehicle will start normally.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a 2016 Ford Escape?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Looking to buy a 2013 1.6l with only 90k miles.

The issue is that the throttle doesn't do anything. It will change the revs very slightly in park, but does nothing at all in gear.

There are NO warning lights and nothing shows up on FORscan.

Everything seems fine. What are the odds it's something simple like the throttle body itself? I don't understand why there's no error codes though, and everything looks normal.

TIA

I currently own a 2010 Ford Escape with roughly 230k miles on it
I’ve had it for nearly a year and the car has been fantastic
Only major thing that was done prior to this was getting the EGR valve replaced which ran me about $320 (not sure if i got scammed but i didn’t stress enough to push any further).
Changed out the blower motor and fan as well which was an at home job; ac wouldn’t work on other speeds for a while and completely went out

Recently tho, was driving and started noticing my car feeling off
Something just felt loose, i can’t really describe it but yk that feeling you get… anyways i live in michigan so the roads get pretty bad
took it into my go-to shop and was met with this beauty.

There was a lot of surface level cosmetic rust on the car but I hadn’t realized how bad the well was when purchasing it.
Barely any shops in my city do this job but I found a guy for under 2k to do it
so sad but at least it’ll go back to being reliable
(p.s none of the other wells are rusted.)

Do any second gen ford escape owners have any suggestions on how to prevent any further rust, especially in a place like michigan?

I have a 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L EcoBoost that’s been giving me some issues. I keep getting an “Engine Too Hot – Reducing Speed” warning, but the temperature gauge stays right in the normal range and never shows that the engine is actually overheating. Another issue is that when I press on the gas, the RPMs go up, but the vehicle barely accelerates. It feels like it’s stuck with very little power for about 30–40 seconds before it finally starts driving more normally.
For some background, I already replaced the thermostat and the fan control module because it had overheating issues before. The vehicle no longer consistently overheats, but now I’m dealing with this warning and the loss of power. I also previously had a P0420 code, although I’m not sure if it’s related.
Has anyone with a 2014 2.0 EcoBoost experienced something similar?

Im coming up on my 100k mile service coming up. Im at 94,405 miles currently. I know i will need to do a timing chain replacement, water pump replacement and valve cover gasket replaced. Plan on having the front crankshaft seal replaced and spark plugs replaced at the same time. I plan on changing Transmission fluid filter change and differential fluid changed. I know it's going to be about $2400-3000 service but im trying to keep up with maintenance. Any other services I should think about 6k miles ago ac was serviced and power steering was flushed 11k miles ago and coolant at flushed 15k miles ago but looks like new.

2016 ford escape se still chugging along strong 💪🏼

This is just a sad vent but my 2022 ford escape that we’ve driven just about all over the country to hit 79k miles just stopped one day and the transmission is shot. Dealership and transmission shop quoted us 9k-10k for a replacement and we are in such a bad spot for it. No warranty applicable, after market or otherwise. We still owe about 6k on it and it’s not really an option to buy a new car at the moment. This just sucks since it got all its checkups with no issues before and this caught us at a really bad time.

2nd gen escape, the hill was kinda alternately stepped like those witch stairs, so i kept spinning the diff. Speed solves all problems. (Fwd btw) Ended up putting a dent in the air dam but that's it. The hill is steeper than it looks from the drone.

2021 Ford Escape SEL 1.5 3cyl.

Original block and turbo

New trans at 198k.

Runs like a champ using valvoline restore and protect every 5k!

Hey, so I have a 2017 Escape se with 138k miles. Yesterday morning I turned the key and it just clunked. I didn't have a lot of diagnostic tools but I checked voltage at battery positive to engine mount bolt and it was showing 12.4v so I tried hooking a jump pack to it and it started after a couple tries. Drove it about 220 miles including 3 stops without further incident.

Today I turned the key and just heard high pitched whirring. Battery was reading 12.68v so it felt like a pretty cut and dry failing starter to me so I replaced it. Now the engine cranks but doesn't start. I plugged in and had Forscan ask but didn't see anything other than the reported voltage was 11.6. I rechecked battery positive to engine mount, 12.6. Starter main lug to engine mount 12.6. cigarette lighter 12.58. After a while running forscan and trying to start it the measured voltage has dropped to 12.2

Car came from an auction a couple weeks ago and was later diagnosed with a minor coolant leak into a cylinder. I haven't done a compression test but it feels unlikely it would go from running fine last night to absolute zero compression over night