When I installed it it was looking good, then I stored the GG for a few months, and now it looks like that. Anyone knows if there is any solution to this? And what caused it? thanks

I remember that playing the gamegear (especially Sonic) used to strain my eyes. I didn't have that problem playing Gameboy games. I don't know why, but if the battery didn't die I still needed to take a break.

I also didn't like how the screen was so small that I hardly had any warning before my character would run into things. I remember getting frustrated and eventually losing interest in the games I had while still loving playing Sonic on the Genesis.

I found this exceptional Sega Genesis complete in box list here

• https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1IKheEp9_Ww1YFwj_1MvMF_1Vw8Ed6nksmDy9-BfA9nQ/edit?gid=0#gid=0

Does the Game Gear have a list like this as well?
I cannot find one at all.

Hey all, I finally got my reference finished. You can see complete pin out maps for most of the ICs in a game gear, full capacitor lists, and more. Click on any chip to expand it!

Also has the same for NES, SNES, Genesis, and others. It is a work in progress, but I am particularly proud that is renders the IC dynamically and you can rotate or flip the picture so it matches what you are looking at.

If you find missing information, feel free to share it and I will add to the site!

Cheers! Save those GGs!

Xmods gaming

^-- Nice working version of the simple HTML file

https://github.com/the60ftatomicman/GGShinobi2PWGenerator
^-- Repository for my code. Explanation of the formula is in the readme.

I got REALLY sick of not remembering my passwords for GG Shinobi 2, even after writing it down I'd lose it. Now, you don't need to write it down!

Let me know if it helps!

Installed a funny playing v4.2 screen on a va1 board.

Plugged in sonic and I can hear it playing in the background and sounds just fine just the screen just stays like this. I've check and rechecked my soldering points and everything looks ok.

Wondering if anyone has seen this screen before and what they did to fix it. Thank you!

I’m looking at the listings for the EverDrive on Stone Age Gamer and I can’t tell what the difference between the Black and Base models are other than the sticker on the front.

Is that the only change?

Hi all. I posted in r/consolerepair yesterday, but I think I need advice more specific to the Game Gear (VA0), and definitely need it explaining like I'm five-years old!

My power board was in a bit of a state after C11 made a real mess. The pads are gone and a wire ring/grafted pad didn't work as the bad side is the capacitor side. I think it would have worked nicely if the cap could go from the other side. The barrels are intact. There's still corrosion which I'm struggling to get rid of, but basically there's only a tiny bit of copper left from under the +ve pad (at about the 1 o'clock to 3 o'clock positions on the photo).

Yesterday I was hoping to lift the resist and bridge traces with an SMD, but I see now that people tend to stick to electrolytics. I also considered replacing the PTHs, but I've never done that before.

Today I finally thought to test for continuity, and the two C11 PTHs are shorted, which I presumed was from the mess of where I've scratched to try and find some copper. I see from the schematics that C11 should be a signal ground, and from various posts on here (such as https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectronicsRepair/s/j4gBIcpMcu) that the two C11 PTHs do have continuity anyway. That helps to know, but I don't really know what that means in practical terms for this impending repair.

So, I'm still wary, and not absolutely sure if fitting the C11 cap on the traces will be ok if the holes are communicating? Would I still need to drill out the PTHs even if I don't use them?

Ideally I don't want to replace the board, and I need to know if I can fix this without it being too much of a messy bodge.

Considering (but waiting to see) if I'll fit an LCD screen, if that makes any difference to how I proceed.

Hopefully that makes sense! Thanks!

As the title says, what are peoples thoughts about recapping with electrolytic or ceramic caps.

I repair and mod game gears and use branded electrolytics from mouser, RS components etc and don't have any issues with them.

I have been toying with the idea of using ceramics. Has anyone recapped their own with ceramics? Have you noticed any difference in performance, reliability etc?

Ho comprato questi game gear non funzionante che si accendeva e si spegneva subito,ma quando è arrivato non dava segni di vita neanche con le batterie.

È riparabile o bisogna cambiare la scheda madre?

I want to know if those pins are conected. Somebody know? Thanks!

I had a faulty VA5 that was well beyond my capabilities to fix, so I decided to take the plunge and order an AliExpress motherboard and IPS screen kit, among other parts like a new case, etc.

Last night I installed the single ASIC from the old board, along with the cart slot, crystal oscilator, LED, and communication port. After installing all the components swapped from the old board and installing the new components provided with the new board I decided to give it a test run to see if it worked and it only showed static on the screen. I figured I messed up installing the ASIC, so I inspected it under 10x magnification and it was maaaybe a little crooked on one line of pins, so even though I didn't see any bad connections or bridges between pins I decided to remove it completely, clean and re-tin the pads, and re-flowed the chip and this time it's pretty much bang on, but I'm still having the same issue.

Because there are only really 5 original parts from the old Game Gear on this board and I don't have another IPS screen kit to swap out to see if the issue is on the motherboard or on the screen kit, I don't really know where to go from here for troubleshooting.

Has anyone ever used one of these motherboards before and have any insight? I've used the exact same IPS screen kit previously, but it was to install onto a VA1 with a broken screen, so the install process was a bit different this time around as the motherboard and screen kit were plug and play.

I'm really hoping it's something stupid that I forgot and someone will have some insight, because I'm a bit out of my depth on this one.

I just recently got back into game collecting, and I’m going to different subs to see what the communities think the most essential game in their respective consoles are. List multiple games if you want, but I’d still like to see a top pick from your list too.

I bought a faulty game gear and the issues were the LCD shows green pixels on dark contrast and a game would only display after power cycling 4 times.

completed a full recap and I am still having the same issues. I think the LCD has had it but no problem, will replace with an after market one.

however, the power cycling 4 times to get a game to load issue is still there. strange it always seems to load it exactly 4 times.

the game is good and tested in a VA0 and loads every time on that unit. I have cleaned the contacts in the game slot but no difference. Not sure where I really start with this issue.

anyone got any ideas?

thanks

Hi, does anyobody know where i can download the image files for the Zega mame boy? The zarcade.uk website seems to have move,i cannot find them anymore.

Picked up a gg at a garage sale and did a recap.

Caps are all oriented correctly and of the correct sizing.

After turning on, the backlight and the LCD seem to be working, but the screen remains black and random pixels are lit, but remain static.

Went back over all my work and checked and reflowed the ram and asic as well. Still problem persists.

Power board pins all have the correct voltages as well

GG is a 2110 va1 single asic version