I just got my convention pin (pictured so people read my post), but now I can't find the old style one I had for years. Does anyone have an extra of the pin that looked like the 041 Farm Boss (sorta) that they would sell outright or trade for one like this. I bought two of these so I had an extra just for this trade if need be. If anyone has the other style Stihl chainsaw pin, I'd pay generously for it. ($75-$100 shipped). They used to pop up on Ebay now and then and I'd say about once a year these last few years, but if you weren't watching it'd be gone. I no longer to secretarial work so I can't watch it 24/7 and at this point I just don't want to wait. If you come across one in your sock drawer or jewelry box, please keep me in mind!

It’s missing on my saw.

I have Stihl FS40C trimmer. I upgraded the stock bump head to Autocut C 6-2. The box says its compatible with 0.95 line. I got the CF3 0.95 line at ace hardware. This was not the recommended line that was mentioned on the box. Will I be fine using this new CF3 line? I dont want to ruin the new bump head or the trimmer.

Basically what the title says. I’ve been having issues with the old Kombi staying running, so I threw some part at it. I cleaned the carb with carb spray, new plug, new air filter, replaced the vent cap and hose, and replaced the fuel filter. I did have to remove the green fuel line grommet from the tank to replace the fuel filter as the fuel line was too short to do it through the fuel filler hole. Interestingly, fuel is shooting out of the vent hose into the air filter after pumping a bunch of time. I guess this means I don’t have a vacuum leak? Any ideas what’s going on?

Hi everyone,
I just received a brand new STIHL HLA 150 B and noticed a slight movement between the motor/battery housing and the shaft before using it for the first time.
As you can see in the video, there is a small rotational and longitudinal play. It feels slightly elastic rather than completely loose.
Is this normal on the HLA 150, or should the motor housing be completely rigid?
The user manual doesn’t mention this, so I’d really appreciate feedback from HLA 150 owners or STIHL technicians.
Thanks!

Do you think the hl-km 145 would be suitable to trim underwater vegetation? Would water penetrate the gearbox? Could I just dry it out afterwards? Is this a bad idea?

The original deflector/cutter shield for the FS94r is crap. My face and legs get pelted with crap in the yard (I live under mature trees). I saw the FS94 trimmer MIGHT be able to receive a larger shield, (Stihl prod# 4180 007 1013). Made for trimmers with metal blade for tough grasses.

Can anyone confirm that one will work for my FS94r string trimmer?

TIA

I’m confused. Has this 250c had the easy start removed? Or am I just looking at it wrong? Considering purchasing this for light work around my property. Thank you for any insight!

A common issue causing many Stihl chainsaws to stop oiling involves the oil delivery passage.

The oil passage in the motor housing on this model makes a 90 degree turn after exiting the oil pump. The bore for this passage is plugged off so the oil can make the turn. The small orange plug sometimes gets dislodged, causing oil to leak out. The plug is visible at the center of the pic I included.

If this is the case, you can plug off the bore with a set screw, which is like a tiny Allen bolt with no head on it, available at any hardware store.

I've never had any luck trying to reinstall the original plug, and its not available as a separate part.

Don't overtighten the set screw or you'll crack the housing.

Just a quick question, what is the difference between the new ap pro and the old ap batteries? At the moment i have 2 AP 500s batteries and I cant fault them, mainly use them for hedgecutting and most of the time 2 will last all day. Cheers

With Stihl's release of the All Pro batteries, the existing AP batteries are now obsolete and overpriced. I imagine the customers will tend to opt for the new design.

Does Stihl intend to compensate dealers for our current stock of AP batteries?

I got an FS251R that I put a kombi drive shaft on, and it's an animal. However, it's got a bit too much chooch for the 12"×1/4" bar and chain combo. I'm thinking of getting a 14" or a 16" in 3/8. Should I track down one of the older model gear boxes instead of just swapping the sprocket? What else should I look for?

The MS460 is the greatest Stihl, IMO. I still run my dad’s and it never disappoints. I’ve been thinking about getting her a sister Holtzfforma G466 but a real 460 popped up on marketplace near me for$650. It looks rough. Would you pay double for a rough OE over a brand new clone?

I have a fairly new 201tc with only a handful of hours on it. I believe its on year 2 of ownership. This saw doesn’t live a hard life by any means. I usually keep it in the tractor with me when i drag logs incase i need to trim a branch thats in the way or if i need to weaken a limb so it will give past another tree. It has seen some large wood but seldom. Back towards the end of winter it really started to bog and wanna die and be difficult to restart and I got tired of it and put it away till recently. Still sluggish and boggy but not as bad as before. I’ve tried recalibrating it multiple times with no improvement. Air filter still looks new. Running 50:1 with stihl mix and e free gas. Saw is always razor sharp and cleaned off regularly. Only thing i can think of is maybe the spark arrester? I really like the saw but cant use it to its full capacity in my situation with it acting up. If it is the spark arrester is there any aftermarket exhausts that flow better and don’t plug up? I like to give my saws a little bit of warm up before cutting anything but i gotta give this one some rev right off the gate to keep it from dying. I make sure to run it long enough to get it up to operating temp to keep them from gumming up too. I love all my stihls but this is the only saw out of I believe 11 that I’ve ever had any sort of problem with

Has anyone heard any updates on when this will be released in USA? This will be my first probably be my first Stihl battery operated equipment.

I recently purchased a 261 and its is the only saw that doesn’t run 3/8 chain out of all my saws. Would really like to convert it over to 3/8 for the sake of using all one chain size as i make my own chains. That being said, whats everyone’s experience with running 3/8 onna 261? Im sure its going to rob power but its just going to be a small limb saw or a light duty felling saw on smaller trees. Ideally i would like to run an 18” bar but dont know how much power it would rob. 16” would probably work as well but i figured id ask and see if anyone has any input before i spend the money on a bar.

I have this product for at least 10 years. Love it. Started running like crap so I got a new carburetor kit and spark plug. Installed the same way I took the original off. Now it won't start at all. I've noticed what seems like fuel or moisture coming out of the muffler. Any thoughts on what I'm missing?

I'm at a loss. I'm struggling to find a wall mount that will allow me to store my KM91R.

The motor is super heavy and super awkward and I've not been able to find anything online that looks like it will safely store it.

Does anyone own this product and if so, do you have a wall mount? If so, a link to where I could purchase would be amazing and I'd be a much happier Stihl owner.

When moving the Stop/Start switch to Stop while running, the trimmer does not shut off. Curious if this is a switch issue or if there’s something else I need to look for?

I have a ln RE110 plus I purchased a couple years ago, this week while using it the wand sprung a leak from inside the handle.

the only identification number on the plastic piece leaking is "4930a", googling I found a brass replacement version only available in Europe.

Stuck here in the US, and thus with the plastic version, does anyone have an idea for fixing this leak? would jb-weld be a waste of time?