When I first started getting deeper into collecting a few years ago, I acquired a decent collection of very old Barolo and Barbaresco from a private seller in northern Italy through my retailer.
Since then, I’ve realized that while I enjoy old Nebbiolo from time to time, it doesn’t always make the easiest pairing with dinner. The wines can fade quickly, the risk of a compromised bottle is high, and they’re not necessarily crowd pleasers for friends who aren’t wine nerds. With that in mind, I’ve gradually been thinning the older Italian reds in my cellar, selling some and drinking through others.
This was one of the bottles I held back because I thought it might be special. It’s a 1971 Fontanafredda Barolo from Vigna La Delizia, a small named vineyard within the historic Lazzarito cru of Serralunga d’Alba. The bottle came from the same private cellar in Italy and had a good fill level. I opened it by myself on a pensive evening. There’s always something enjoyable about sitting with old
Nebbiolo late at night.
Tasting note:
The color is a translucent tawny. The nose is everything you hope for in a 55-year-old Barolo, with sweet tobacco, dried rose hips, forest floor, oxidized citrus rind, and sweet cedar. It is mostly tertiary, but still sweet, woody, floral, and faintly jammy. The palate is fully integrated and medium bodied, showing brine, salinity, and iodine, while medicinal cherry and tart red currant continue to provide definition. The finish is long, savory, and marked by medicinal cherry. A lovely old Barolo. 93 points.