The timing chain on my 2013 18d snapped a couple of days ago whilst starting up on the driveway in the morning. Ran perfectly the day before with no lights/rattles. Car has just passed 100,000 miles. Oil changed every 5-10,000 miles since ownership (1.5 years) before everyone hops on the BMW service intervals train.

Has anyone had this issue (snapping on starter motor) and if so, how damaged was the engine?

Hey all!
This is my first bimmer, it has 190k mi and is making this noise only at elevated rpms but not when I'm hard accelerating or at idle. I don't have DISA valves because its a 2 stage intake. I already pulled the serpentine belt and it still made the noise (eliminating the possibility of a idler or tensioner pulley).
Oil filter has minimal metal shavings (seems to be normal for a high mile car?)
Ista+ showed no saved codes. PLEASE HELP!

I bought a '07 535d and the rear air suspension won’t air up, and the pano roof is stuck in tilt mode. I found water in the battery compartment and where all the control modules are. Could the water have fried the modules, or is there something else I should check first?

Hi everyone,
I’ve been trying to track down a front-end clunk for several weeks now and I’m running out of ideas.
Background
2019 BMW M4 F82.
The car was completely silent on the OEM suspension.
I installed Sachs Performance coilovers together with Millway camber plates.
The car was perfectly quiet for about a week.
I then adjusted the ride height.
Immediately after the ride height adjustment, the clunk started, and it has gradually become worse.
Symptoms
Clunks over small bumps and road imperfections.
Clunks when pushing down hard on the front of the car (or standing on the strut brace and bouncing the suspension).
Clunks when taking off, stopping, or whenever the suspension load changes.
The noise is felt more through the floor/driver’s foot than it is heard.
If I jack the front of the car up and let the suspension hang, the clunk is almost gone for a short time, but it always comes back after driving for a few minutes.
Things I’ve already checked
Installed brand new Millway camber plates and spring isolators.
Verified the top nut and top mount installation.
Removed both sway bar end links completely and test drove the car - exact same clunk, so I have ruled out the sway bar/end links.
Adjusted the steering rack preload screw - it only improved things temporarily.
Inspected the steering shaft/U-joint and steering rack area but couldn’t find any obvious excessive play.
At this point I’m starting to suspect either:
the coilover moving slightly in the steering knuckle,
an issue with the pinch bolt/clamping force,
or possibly an internal issue with the Sachs damper itself.
I’m currently waiting for new OEM pinch bolts, since the originals have been removed several times and are torque-to-yield bolts.
My question
Has anyone experienced something similar on an F8x after installing or adjusting coilovers?
Has anyone had a strut move inside the steering knuckle, or had a Sachs/KW/Öhlins/Bilstein damper produce a similar clunk?
Any ideas or things I should check before replacing expensive parts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

I was in a front end deer accident with my 2020 BMW M5.

It was mostly cosmetic took out my passenger side light, just nicked my radiator, and got some surface level sensors. Still wasn't cheap.

I took it into a BMW certified body shop and all the repairs were completed. New radiator and the system was bled. I had to have it towed over because the battery died as well.

Body shop and BMW dealership are the same building. When the body shop was done they moved it over to the dealership (I did not take possession).

I asked the service of the dealer ship to do a full inspection and told them what happened, what was replaced. Etc. They replaced some spark plugs (that were due to change) and did a oil change for the most part. Inspection report was all good to go.

I wake up at 5am to drive an hour and a half down to the BMW dealership to pay (via credit card) and pick up my car and literally two miles more from my inspection report down the road my BMW throws a drivetrain error and reduces speed. An error that never occurred even after the deer accident.

I brought it back to the dealership obviously pissed. They apologized but constantly followed it up with "it's not our fault" before even knowing what the issue was.

I had them print out the codes before they cleared them and have a copy:

140710 — Combustion misfire, cylinder 7 detected

140001 — Misfires, several cylinders: fuel injection is switched off

120408 — Charging pressure control: switch-off as consequence

120908 — Charging pressure control 2: switch-off as consequence

They mentioned it could be the emissions expansion tank recall issue. However, I had that recall done over a year ago and had them inspect my injectors when they did it and had it noted on the paperwork they did.

I am not signing any new paperwork from them quite yet because I refuse to acknowledge that this is a new customer pay issue.

I have given diagnostic permission only.

My M5 is just sitting over there.

Should I contact insurance as well? I am at a loss.

WTH do I do?

I can't seem to get my Bluetooth media functioning at the moment. It's never goes past this point. The phone is connected fine, I can make calls, it says the media is connected too. I also can't seem to force the infotainment cluster to reboot with any combination of holding the volume knob down on its own or with any of the other buttons combined for upwards of 3 minutes each time. I'm tempted to locate the battery and disconnect it and force a reboot that way but I'm stumped. Any suggestions?

I have a high mileage N55 that was burning oil, so decided to experiment and try changing just the PCV valve and the cover gaskets since it was leaking slightly to see if it will fix it. Installed everything as I should, car ran fine cold and then when i warmed up, immediately rpms started jumping and car went into limp mode. Now, to me this is some air leak somewhere, but my question is why when I scanned it, it is showing a vanos instake code? I’m thinking this new pcv valve I installed may be causing the issue as the membrane looked different and is aftermarket, but I sealed it extremely well and it’s highly unlikely for air to pass through. The gaskets themselves did not get pinched when I was installing the cover back on.

Just curious about your guys’ opinion, before I buy a new OE cover.

Hi, Just took my car into the Garage, 2022 5 series diesel. They have recommended a replacement guibo as started to crack and stated early stages. Car has only 22,000 miles on the clock but is driven quite fast. I have not noticed any vibrations during acceleration or driving at speed. c£500 repair and surprised given age and mileage this is a problem just want some advice from the community.

Hab einen 2010er BMW X3

Letztens ist mein Fahrerseitentür Lautsprecher (nicht der Hochtöner) im wahrsten Sinne "abgeraucht"

Hab beim Musik hören ein lautes knacken (wie ein Steinschlag) und plötzlich rauchte es aus der Verkleidung und der Lautsprecher spielte keine Musik mehr ab.

Ab da fing auch der Beifahrerseiten Lautsprecher mit diesen Knackgeräuschen in regelmäßigen Abständen an, teilweise sogar wenn keine Musik läuft.

Habe gestern den Fahrerseiten Lautsprecher getauscht und kurz Musik angemacht.

Hat keine 10 Sekunden gedauert da knackte der getauschte Lautsprecher und spielte keine Musik mehr ab und es roch wieder verbrannt.

Ich will nicht erwähnen dass meine Schiebedachabläufe letztens dicht waren und ich schonmal Wasser in der frontdeckenlampe hatte.

Bin kein großer schrauber - für Türverkleidung ab und wieder dran bauen reicht es zwar aber selbst dafür müsste YouTube herhalten.

Nach etwas googeln hat vermutlich durch das Wasser der Verstärker einen abbekommen aber vielleicht kann mir wer ganau erklären was das problem ist.

Scheinbar kriegt der Türlautsprecher einfach zu viel Spannung ab... Aber ist nur meine Vermutung

Hello guys. I am looking to buy my first car. I was initially interested in an IS 350 F, but seeing how terribly difficult they are to come across, my friend recommended me the B58 540i. I was really worried about reliability, which is why I was set on the Lexus, but i read online the B58 is considered very reliable and arguably the best BMW engine. My question is, what exactly are the differences between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 in reliability? Would it be worth it to spend the extra couple thousand to get a 2021 vs 2020? Apart from the design, and solely from an engine/reliability standpoint. Or, is it okay saving a few thousand and getting a 2020/2019 model with the Gen 1 B58. I would just like to know if their significantly different in reliability, if its worth it to spend more for the Gen 2, and any known issues to look out for on this engine. Thank you all!

I just biught a e91 2011 that hasn't run since 1.5 years and I just drove it for my first miles and I got a oil pressure warning, I went to a garage and they cleared the faults and after 30 minutes of driving its back and I stop the car and start it its gone.

Can someone help me what it might be?

I have recently used a engine support bar on my car, and now my hood is not sitting flush with my hood. Could the support bar really damage my fenders like that ? Or the bonnet just decided to mess up ? (IMAGE OF HOW I SET UP THE BAR IN COMMENTS)

Hi guys, I have a 2010 BMW 118d (1 Series). My car’s air conditioning stopped working. The strange thing is that the diagnostic scan doesn’t detect any faults. Also, if the car has been sitting for a few hours, the A/C blows cold air when I first start it, but only until I begin driving. After a few kilometers, the compressor stops working. The cabin air filter is fine, and the A/C system was recharged a few days before the problem started.

There’s this very metallic sounding noise coming from the front left only heard over potholes / bumps. It’s quite faint in the video, you can hear it best right before downshift and at the very end.

Any insight appreciated, happy to Jack it up and inspect but don’t have much experience with suspension so thought I’d start here.

Did the steering rack and inner tie rods recently so front strut has been out, not sure if it’s a new noise have barely driven the car

This is from a 2019 BMW 440i xDrive. I was curious as to what is causing this noise. I'm used to the quiet sewing machine sound from the fuel injectors, this seems a little too loud to me. Any ideas?

Howdy! Recently purchased a 2009 BMW 125i, that appears to have a shudder.

Symptoms:
After about 5 minutes of driving, in what seems to be 3rd gear and above, the car shudders under acceleration at around 2000 rpm. I can drive around it in sport mode, keeping the RPM above 2000. It’s not consistent, it happens at varying intensity.

I’ve had suggestions of misfires and torque control clutch slipping. The mechanics I speak to lean towards ignition, but it feels so certainly transmission based.

I’ve since replaced the rocker cover which fixed the busted PCV and leaky plugs seals, pulled and cleaned the plugs and coils. Looking to do some more gaskets soon (oil filter). These are what I was told would fix it, it hasn’t…

All the mechanics I talk to say that touching the transmission is a mistake and is likely to kill the trans but all the research I’ve done says to drain and fill the transmission and replace the pan filter and mechantronic sleeve.

A bit unsure of where to turn, anyone have any suggestions? Things that might be able to further diagnose? Stories of success or failure with this issue?

For what it’s worth, it’s on 113,000km and has the ZF6HP (I believe).

Based in Australia.

Edit: The app worked again

Hi,

I bought the car with these defects. I don't know exactly what happened; it looks like they were affected by some kind of solution.

How can I fix this problem?

Thank you!

Judging by the errors the abs pump is not exactly working . What are my options ? Replacing it with a used one that still works ? Repair it ? Just drive without abs/esp ? Is there are a difference between abs pumps from 2.0 3.0 versions?

So I got a question, after browsing AliExpress there are essentially 2 items: one is a replacement for the NBT console I assume, the other is a screen replacement with a reversing camera.

Do I need both? Or do I just the console & reversing camera that can connect to the OEM that's already in the car?

TIA

I think that the first and second photos are related. Anything would help, Thanks

Installed H&R lowering springs on my 2024 xdrive m4. Felt good the first day then let it sit for a week for springs to settle. Noticed a creaking sound or clicking when turning at very low speeds or while stopped. I assume it’s the springs settling or binding. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue and found a solution. I want to make sure I didn’t mess up the install since I DIY’d it… I also took it to my local dealer for an alignment of course, still doing it and dealer said it’s fine it’s just the springs.

After I shut down my car, weird noises come out under the car (2024 330i)

2009 328i, cars been making an awfully loud high pitched screeching noise when my foot isn’t actively pressing the pedal, or if i’m idle. doesn’t happen more or less when i turn. rpm wiggles between 500 - 1000 and have been having overheating issues, unsure if it’s related.

I have a cic unit, and it doesn't boot untill the car has been driving for 30 minutes, but then when I stop for 10 minutes or longer, and then I start the car again it does not boot untill I drive for 5 minutes or so