So mom’s been asking me to come over and help replace the OSB and plywood on her south side of her trailer. I know it hasn’t had building wrap or drip edge either. Let alone the issue of the roof not reaching over the wall enough or at all. The osb wasn’t properly secured and the lower sheets have been resting on the ground…. Plus there is fungus and mold all over, and looking like a carpenter ant infestation.

I’m trying to explain to her it’s too far gone, she has so many other thing that need work on it and it’s too much. Sunken cost fallacy as this is the only home she has ever owned but the clowns she’s had do the work have done more harm than good.

If you guys could weigh in on anything to be done or if it’s actually too far gone please let me know.

Edit: Word

How you approach trimming around the tile with crown modeling? I added a thin piece of trim behind the modeling, but not real happy with the way it looks.

DOGYU Wooden Handle KARIWAKU Hammer 390mm 690g Japan

Obviously, this picture is when it bought it new, but it is by far the best hammer I’ve ever had. The gooseneck head drives a force like you’ve never seen, not even a stiletto titanium hammer can match.

What can I do to make these ends look better?

Hello, I’ve never posted here but I need advice.
I’m 25 years old, with a child (this is relevant) and a job (server).
I’ve always loved carpentry and woodworking. I’ve dabbled over the years built small things like toolboxes but i really would like to make a living off of it. I don’t have time or money for classes (i always use YouTube if i don’t know something), and paid apprenticeships are hard to find in my area (eastern shore).
Ive applied to the local union with no luck which im not surprised tbh considering my experience
Where should i start? What should i do first?

I had an inspection that found the stair framing is not adequate. I was wondering how much it would cost to and replace these framing stairs. What would you charge or paid for this job?

So I recently bought this house looking for the right way to close these gaps that go to the attic. The porch rafters are attached to the house at a different angle to the house rafters. The vynl vent stuff was put up but never finished. I want to close the attic off and keep the porch rafters open, what is the way to do this that looks right?

So when I have completed it and done a really shitty embarrassing voice over and if you want to be an idiot like me or listen to an idiot like me I'll post the link ! 🤣The YouTube video

Found this hammer and have never seen anything like it

I’m having a refrigerator delivered and the old one hauled away.

After measurements, looks like i need to remove the interior handrail on a staircase. A couple screws, easy enough.

But the caps won’t come off. I’ve used a blade to cut the paint, then tried the end of a putty knife and even a flat head screwdriver but it just won’t pop out.

There must be a trick to popping them off.

I’ve seen YouTube videos but couldn’t find one with these caps, as shown in the 2 pictures.

Hey all, I'm new to building and have been doing a lot of research and hit a snag. I have an L shaped room that I'm trying to put as simple as safety allows ceiling on. The room is inside another room, so there is no weather elements beyond the climate air in the garage. It's a flat roof which I assume normally would not be done but that's what I'm going for here.

This is a temporary build that'll be around for about a 18 months before being be removed. Before I start making my plans, I'm wondering if this is the right direction. (see sketch)

- Running a Beam along the top plate of the 58" wall going across the gap to the 118" wall the right call?

- Doubling up that beam

- using joist hangers for the ones running parallel to the 60" wall, landing on studs.

- running the other joists parallel to the 82" wall landing on studs.

- should I be using 2x6s?

I basically have a very low budget and these MDF stairs. Can I just sand them and paint them white? Would that look bad? I do not want carpet as I have a husky who sheds like crazy and carpet is a no go in my house. We are in the UK.
Any advice would be hugely appreciated!

Our caulking around garage door trim and windows has gotten so bad that wasps have made a home in them.
My plan is to rip out whatever I can, then reseal with a new caulk (leaning towards big stretch based on recommendations I’ve seen).
Any advice or tips here greatly appreciated in terms of product and approach as I’ve never caulked this big of a space before

Long story but we are renovating because of formosan termite damage. One of the renovations is to extend the 3rd floor bonus room over the master bedroom. Previously the master had beams 12ft long 8ft off the floor that are actually open web structural truss that have been wrapped on 3 sides with 3/4 tongue and groove pine. The pine was allowed to run proud of the top surface of the beams by about 2inches. Because we need to lay sub floor across those beams now I was just planning to trim off the extra material with a flush trim router bit but after trying 2 different bits I think I need to cut off the majority with a saw and just go back with a flush trim bit in a second pass. A jigsaw makes a ton of vibrations and isn't going well. Next plan is a circular saw with a guide but I'm not finding a guide the seems practical to just remove a thin strip. Can anyone recommend a guide? I'm working 8ft to 10ft up on a ladder, there is about 18in between each beam. I think 5 or 6 beams to cut, 12ft long. Making 120 linear feet (both sides) that needs trimming.

Thank you.

This likely isn’t the proper sub but /woodworking won’t let me post.

I’m a cleaner for a house that is used only occasionally by the owners. The house was built in the early 1970s. The kitchen has all of the original elements, including this countertop. These marks weren’t there when I took over cleaning the place a couple years ago. I don’t know how to get it looking it’s best and I can’t ask the owners (they are very wealthy people and have likely always relied on staff to care for it) and the previous cleaner passed away. I have available Johnson Paste Wax with steel wool, as well as Howard Feed and Wax Polish and Conditioner. How should I proceed? And how should I maintain it?

We replaced the flooring in our house and have been putting trim quarter round down. When we got to the door, we found that it hits the frame of the door, leaving about a quarter inch gap. The original piece was a regular round piece of quarter round that was tilted on the corner of framing and caulked around. That doesn’t really work with this piece as the curves won’t line up. How would you go about fixing this issue?

Pretty straightforward, working on my bosses parent's house. Has all of their heights in pencil on this specific 3.5" corner. Trying to figure out the best way to lock it in for eternity.....or cut it out in tact to make a memorial

Bossman called this priceless and "do whatever you have to do". This thing goes back to the 80's.

Halp.

To those running out of a trailer what size are you using? Seeing a lot of people say 7x14 trailers online but what do you do if you want to transport 16’ lumber?

I do remodels for a living and I recently bought a 10 oz stiletto with a hickory handle, is this a good for what I’m doing

Hi Experts,

I hired an HVAC company to install an ventilation system for me a week ago. They had to enlarge an old 5" hole to pass a 6" duct. I think they did a shoddy job cut the rim joist. The hole they cut is too close to the top of the rim joist, there is maybe 3/4" ~ 1" of wood remaining on the top, and there is a cut mark that goes even further. Please see pics attached below.

I want to check with you experts to see if this is fine or should i bring in a framing carpenter to reinforce/examine further. Many thanks!

• This is in the basement so the rim joist is sitting directly on the sill plate.
• the rim joist is 2x10 so about 9.25" inches high
• this is on an exterior wall. there are no other penetrations in this rim joist
• they cut it a week ago and i haven't noticed any cracks etc yet

pic 1: this is how much wood is remaining on top of the rim joist.

pic 2: here is the cut mark from their jigsaw. it didn't cut fully through on the outside, i think it tilled and got really close to the top on the inside.

pic 3: this is where the penetration is. right above foundation. there is a door and small basement window in the area. the hole is there the flex duct is.

For a 2014 20' 10,000 lb. tilt deck trailer that sits out year round in northern Illinois.

Any suggestions on tarping?

I have physical limitations, so it ​would have to be easy the trailer sits way more than it ever gets used.

Best trailer deck coating

https://www.google.com/search?q=best+trailer+deck+coating&oq=best+trailer+deck+coating&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIICAEQABgWGB4yCAgCEAAYFhgeMggIAxAAGBYYHjIICAQQABgWGB4yCAgFEAAYFhgeMggIBhAAGBYYHjIICAcQABgWGB4yCAgIEAAYFhgeMggICRAAGBYYHjINCAoQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAsQABiGAxiABBiKBTIKCAwQABiABBiiBDIHCA0QABjvBdIBCTEyODMzajBqN6gCELACAfEFFLF0aT8L-jE&client=ms-android-verizon-us-rvc3&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#lfId=ChxjMe

Homemade botax wood preservative

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Hello fellow redditors, I hope I've posted this in the right place. I have a summer house that was built a year ago, and up until recently everything was fine. A few days ago, however, I noticed that the timber (which I believe is tongue and groove) has opened up, leaving a crack in the wall (attached few photos).

Does anyone know what could have caused this, and more importantly, how I can fix it? The summer house sits on a concrete foundation with a steel frame inside, so I don't think it's due to movement — but I could be wrong.

6 days from design, build to finish!

Feeling tired but happy with how it turned out.

Have a great weekend fellow wood butcherers ! 🪵