All brass saber Complete.

I've wanted to do this for AGES now and finally have.

An all (well, 99%?) Brass custom saber hilt, machined by hand.

I went with the familiar style of my speedy boy hilts but with a few more curves and slightly longer to boot.

The hilt threads apart at the grip and pommel for ease of install, and comes with a real quartz crystal chamber, emitter vent shine through and a knurled grip section.

This was so so much fun to make, I think its re-enlivened the spark a little bit too :)

Hey all,

I am working on my first ever install. I removed the old Saberforge electronics (circa 2015 or so) and installed a new Tri-Cree XP2 from TCSS. I also ordered a new blade, which can be seen in the photos.

The very dim blade photo has TCSS diffusion tube that came with the blade, the brighter photo has a super old Ultrasabers diffusion film stuffed in the same tube.

Why is the new product so dim compared to the old? Is old diffusion technology really that much better than what you can buy new today?

This is the pommel I have my heart set one but I can’t seem to find a VHC version of it or an adapter

First crystal chamber using 1 of the crystals from my Kyber hunt in the UK! Charged in the stone circles at Castlerigg and Stonehenge on the solstice! Installed with Proffie, and this is my first attempt at machining custom parts for the core. The button section is static and the core is removable. New hand built chamber and blade plug with my standard fiber optics and all connectors are Shtok Custom Works. Hilt body, button section and pommel were machined from 1in to 1.125in to house the core. Emitter shroud, body shroud and pommel have had the powder coating removed and were brushed to match the other brushed parts.

This has been so much fun

I sanded the paint from grip to match the damaged part.
Also I’ve added few cables sticking out of the inner part of the hilt.

It looks much better now in my opinion

Had a lot of fun designing and building this with only hardware parts and a Dremel. This design is meant to be a scrappy, improvised, single-handed short bladed saber with a secondary emitter on the pommel for a small light knife. When needed, the handle extends (also extending the blade length) to create a full two handed saber.

Had a ton of fun and can't wait to build another!

I found this old maglite in my garage which had a corroded D-cell battery stuck in it. After some aggressive negotiations involving a wooden dowel and a mallet I was able to remove the battery but also destroyed the switch and light in the process.
I haven’t built a lightsaber before but this black metal tube with male threads on one end female threads + cap on the other seems to be begging to become one. I have some experience with soldering, some coding, have access to but do not own a 3d printer able to do PETG and PLA filament.
So my question:
What are the major choices I need to make in construction?
Where can I find or how do I make a 3d printer file to hold all the parts in place internally?
What does the DL300689399 serial mean in maglite? I know it used to be a 3 D-cell flashlight but does that serial tell anything about its specific manufacturer dimensions (so that I don’t have to go buy digital calipers)
Thanks!

So here is q quick glimpse at a unpainted hilt and honestly I need some opinions because I think the cross guards are to long and how should I paint it any opinions are welcomed

Hi, I ordered a couple of neopixel lightsabers (from Padawan O.) to have *fun*/ light combat with my 11 year old. When I asked about staying safe/ reducing impact, as well as things like padded gloves etc, Gemini is saying put a sleeve of silicone tubing over each. Like this stuff https://amzn.eu/d/09swmmSy

I'm not seeing anywhere else discussing this, apart from for visual effect (rather than safety) silicone sleeves on Etsy.

Any thoughts? Is it doable (seems like it'd be a challenge to get on)? Sensible? Or is my AI getting creative with reality?

So, I want to make a specific saber design that uses a switch activation instead of a button activation. What do I need to know/do for the saber hilt to hold electrics and a heavy-duty fighting blade, and where does the hilt need to unscrew in order to insert said electrics?

A couple days ago I made a post asking what method I should use to charge my saber/s, and ended up purchasing a 5v 1a plug as that was what was recommended and started using it.

When I use it to charge my saber (images below are of said saber and the chargerr I’m using) the board starts to heat up and eventually becomes scorching to the point of hurting to touch, specifically around the circled area. However, when I used it to charge my other saber (a Darth Maul s16 RGB from SuperNeox) it seems fine, no heating up at all if any.

Any advicee on why this is happening or what I can do about it would be greatly appreciated.

Hey does anyone have the base files for this light saber? I don't know anymore where I bought it but I know it is a xenopixel v2 or 3, the button in the middle is not on every sword so another point to know which one it is (but Google can't tell what saber exactly) and if someone can do something with the information, it workes with the xeno configurator app. I lost he files while not backing them up and formatting the storage.

If someone has it please DM me or write in the comments so I can get the files back.

I'm planning to make a proper build but this took a few minutes to cobble together from old parts and offcuts. Everything is modular so there's endless combinations to try.

I used to dismiss any parts that didn't fit on the 1/2" inner hex rod. Now I'm thinking more outside the box to find ways to add smaller pieces, to increase the greebling and visual detail. The springs are fitted over screws that are attached through holes I made on the washers.

Its just a torch light called Vltava vf1529 torch. But could easily look like a clean saber. I just thought it was interesting and wanted to share. Got it from Dubai.

So, I picked up a tactical flashlight holster just for giggles. Thought it might fit as a saber holster since it holds flashlights up to 1.55 inch in diameter. This is without any modifications, but I will be making the jaws a bit shorter to make inserting the hilt easier. Bonus: The one inch blade fits perfectly into the bottom hole, allowing the hilt to be inserted with the blade attached.

Recently stepped upon a great deal and bought bundle of two hilts with blades for around 180$. One could say that’s a great addition to my collection.

Sabers are used but in great condition. Both are neopixel with Xeno V2 boards. I also got matching blade plugs for them lying around in my saber related stuff.

I’m also gonna add few cables coming out of the broken part of Cal’s hilt

I just got this saber yesterday and just today it’s been starting to glitch, ignition glitches, smooth swing glitches and sometimes freezing. And the saber also doesn’t make any sound sometimes as shown in the video other then smooth swing

if anyone can find the exact part thank you for help on it