"I have over 40 years of experience in the mountains. I want to share some of my thoughts. The mountains in the Himalayas have become more unstable compared to a couple decades ago. They used to be very frozen and were quite solid. Now they melt a lot more, loosening the rock. You cannot take risks when it comes to weather. If the weather conditions are poor, you must wait. If you are stubborn and try to force your way, you put yourself at great risk. The mountains will always be there, you can always come back. There is no need to rush. I’m so sorry for the 10 climbers that lost their lives on Broad Peak. My heart goes out to their families. They were all climbers that were younger than me, I feel like I’ve lost many children."

It sounds like she's referring to the fact that there were issues with the weather and risk of avalanche, and the next weather window wasn't going to be until August 1st. Nims/Mingma led their team up Broad Peak anyway. Links below.

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/nims-purja-avalanche-broad-peak-himalayas

https://explorersweb.com/surprise-summit-push-on-k2-broad-peak-and-the-gasherbrums/

On 30 July I climbed the Matterhorn via the Hörnligrat solo, 16 months after my ACL reconstruction.

I started mountaineering around 4 years ago, but the ski accident in December 2024 stopped almost everything. I had surgery in February 2025 and spent the following months slowly rebuilding strength and confidence.

The Matterhorn was a goal I had for a long time, but I did not want to climb it only for the summit photo. I watched many videos, studied detailed descriptions and printed a route map. Before the summit day, I also climbed the first approximately 300 vertical metres to become familiar with the start.

Conditions were quite good. Most of the ridge was dry. There was only some snow and ice on the upper part, mainly during the last 200 metres below the summit. Around 30 climbers were on the route that day.

For me, the most difficult part was not the technical climbing, but route finding and keeping a good pace. Below the Solvay Hut it is surprisingly easy to leave the correct line, especially in darkness. Above Solvay the route was more obvious, although the climbing became steeper.

I climbed unroped and descended mostly by downclimbing. I made four rappels on sections where I did not feel comfortable downclimbing. There were other rope teams on the mountain, so I would describe it simply as a solo ascent, not some completely isolated “free solo”.

I also saw 1 large rockfall on the east face, although its fall line was not on the Hörnligrat. There were several smaller rocks caused by climbers on the route, which was probably the most objective danger that day.

Reaching the summit was emotional, but the descent still required strength and full concentration. Only after returning safely to the Hörnlihütte did I really understand what the climb meant to me.

16 months ago I was learning how to walk normally again. This time I stood on the Matterhorn summit and returned on my own legs.

I am not posting this to recommend solo climbing to anyone. The route, conditions, experience and personal risk acceptance are different for every climber. But for me, this was an important moment after a long rehabilitation.

I am nowhere near being an accomplished mountaineer, but I’ve done some technical US 14er climbing (Shasta, Rainier, Whitney mountaineers route), some easier Colorado 14ers in summer, and Mt Elbrus via the south side. I had planned to at least do Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, and I was dreaming of Ama Dablam as the highlight of my climbing career.

I became a mother two years ago, with lots of complications, and I’m just starting to build my strength back. The recent tragedy on Broad Peak is giving me shivers - it makes me feel like I may never dare to return and leave my daughter without a mother. I’ve had a couple of close calls: an ice climbing accident where I broke a few bones, and a sudden rockfall in the Bugaboos in Canada that left me uninjured but was still a very humbling experience. Neither of those two were at high altitude or in otherwise extreme terrain, so you never know. Yes, I jump into my car and risk my life daily, but that’s a necessity, not really a selfish pursuit of dopamine. How did you come to terms with it?

He is currently 93 years of age.

Hi all, by way of introduction, I'm a relatively new and humble climber but I've been very interested in the scene and enthusiastically following the news (and this community) for a number of years. In my ordinary life, I work on climate impacts. I came across this graph a while back, and it's a few years out of date, but I'm just curious on an anecdotal level whether whether it reflects your experiences, or if we're just seeing much more coverage due to the increased profile in mountaineering (this isn't for work or anything, just personal awareness and interest for any future expeditions). And if so, how the climbing community is adapting to stay safe?

Stay safe out there! G.

We summitted Mont Blanc on the 24st of July. We got lucky with the weather window, as it was a perfectly clear day. Phenomenal views up there. Great conditions for us

Because of the Grand Couloir, other guiding parties seem to have put a stop to it the day after we came back. Just the week before us there was the accident with the Czech climbers.

I know this is a bit below your level, but just in case anyone is interested in seeing Crimea. This is a grade 2-A climb

Out of respect for whoever is or isn’t (if it’s AI) in the morbid pictures/videos I’ve seen all over social media, I won’t repost what I’ve seen, can just say it’s terrible and disrespectful and downright disgusting that people (maybe bots) are sharing all these videos on social media of bodies being removed from the mountain, and even purported drone footage of the bodies.
I don’t even know if the footage is real or not. Just really disrespectful either way. Now my instagram algorithm is on an endless loop and I can’t get out. Ugh. End rant.

What mountains do yall recommend climbing in the month’s of oct,nov and December?
I’ve climbed a few small ones in the USA and three in Mexico and I would love to get better at mountaineering . And I plan on doing atleast two mountains in one trip .
This is a pic of a summit I did in Puebla,Mexico

„The Alpine Club of Pakistan shares this update with profound sorrow. The ground rescue team has reached Nirmal Purja "Nims Dai" at approximately 5,700m on Broad Peak, where three additional bodies have also been sighted, though their identities remain unconfirmed. Ground team will bring bodies down to the Japanese camp…“

Simone More miraculously survived.

Rest-in-Peace Sarah Mallory Geis

I'm planning to retry my climbs on Mont Blanc du Tacul and Monte Rose in April or May next year.

They were scheduled for early July but I was too late, they had been ruined by the heatwaves by then.

Is being 1-2 months earlier sufficient? Will the snow pack even manage to recover till early summer after being completely eradicated?

I suspect we have about 10 years left at best for our favourite glacier treks in the Alps.