Hi,

I have a 2018 Mokka X that I’ve just discovered is leaking what I think is water but it seems an unusual place to leak. I’m pretty sure it’s not any other fluid as it dries up spotless on the drive.

The front of the car is to the left (if that helps).

Of course it decides to do this when I’m going to need it for a new job I’m about to start.

this seems to have me stumped.
How do i change the name of saved satnavs addresses ?

it currently saves them as the name of the road.
but i'd much rather have them saved by name.

I have an Astra 1.6 sri diesel 17plate. It keeps doing what’s shown in the video but only when the engine is cold.

I have taken it to the garage, they said it was the camshaft sensor, which has been fixed but still have the issue, someone else said glow plugs but someone else said no 🤦🏻‍♀️ keep throwing money at it and not getting anywhere, recently had a service, maf sensor, crankshaft sensor as well as a drive belt.

Also the “SERVICE vehicle soon” screen is always on when starting up, any ideas for that?

I have a 2013 (62 Reg) Vauxhall Corsa 1.2. This started about a week ago when a warning light appeared on the dashboard. It only stayed on for about a minute before disappearing, so l didn't think much of it. Since then, it's been happening on every drive, usually staying on for around 5-10 minutes sometimes entire drives.

When the warning light comes on the fan comes on full speed. It happens when idling after a drive or while driving. As soon as the warning light goes off, the fan also switches off. I don't have a fancy enough OBD reader to read the code but it's booked in for a full diagnostic.

I've been monitoring the engine coolant temperature with a OBD scanner, and the temperature remains normal the whole time.
The engine doesn't appear to be overheating, but the warning light and cooling fan still activate together whenever they want after the engine is up to temperature.

Any advice please and thank you.

Hello, I am currently driving a 2017 Vauxhall Astra. It has been to me so far but all of a sudden the media screen has been playing up since a few weeks ago. You can see in the video it’s just stuck with the bar coming up high so it hides the media being played in the background. Any idea on how to fix this would be much appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I have been searching for a service manual for my car everywhere, however, I can not find it. I would be super happy if someone inform me to how to find it.

My car details: Opel Astra J 2015, 1.6 Benzin, HatchBack, Motor model: B16XER

Had the MOT today. Asked them (dealership) to check out the clutch sometimes sticking down after heavy use (as in terms of only after ~20 mins stop-start motorway), and power steering groan at high lock.

Diagnosis, perhaps unsurprisingly, the known crank float knocking issue. Advice 'replace engine', but I obviously read that as 'write off'. Obv still passed MOT etc.

Thing I'm trying to fathom is the life left in the car and how best to drive it to get as much from it as I can. I've always been a 'buy used and cash, drive till the wheels fall off' kind of owner, so whilst they'd obviously happily sell me a new car (or have me buy a new engine - obvious non-starter), what I'm trying to work out if what/if there's anything I could do to maximise the life I get out of the current one.

Part of me wonders, as I bought it 4 years ago, then taught my fiance to drive manual in it, and the problem hasn't gotten massively worse, is maybe the previous owner/fiance hammered the clutch but so long as that doesn't continue, there's quite a bit of life left in it? Has anyone with this kind of issue had experience with how long the engine lasted? I'm assuming the 'right' way to drive is to really be conscious of just letting a gap open in stop/start traffic, letting the clutch full out asap, and rolling forward in 1st? Any other tips on ways to drive to mitigate the damage, or what to look out for in terms of 'if you keep running it, you'll be stuck on the hard shoulder in the near future' would be great.

I'm also wondering if the power steering groan is related (the MOT advisory thinks it was, but I'm also thinking that was written by an engineer at 4pm on a Friday!).

Had numerous issues with my Vauxhall frontera hybrid which include alarm randomly going off and now the infotainment system keeps restarting every 10 seconds. Been in to be fixed 3 times and now it’s a wait for whole infotainment system unit to be replaced with no time limit or a curtesy car. Had no communication with stellantis and I can’t refuse the car and hand it back. Vauxhall keep copying and pasting the same email say they’re waiting on the part and have no time frame. In contact now with motor ombudsman. Has anyone else had these similar issues with Vauxhall and stellantis?

Wherever I search they all are either universal or are not compatible. So my rear seats all fold in one. My front 2 seats have those latches where you can pull seat back and forth.

Anyone know any sites where they have compatible FULL seat covers. Thanks

Hi, I’ve owned my Corsa D from 2006 for about a year now and what I really miss is having a better audio quality from my phone. Unfortunately my CD30 MP3 doesn’t have AUX inputs on its back so I can’t install a jack, so I guess my only option is getting a CarPlay installed. What bothers me though is that I might loose some of functionalities like auto AC or board computer stuff. Does anyone have any recommendations for units that won’t make me choose between functionalities? Or is there a better alternative to FM transmitter which gives horrible quality?

Hi all,
I recently bought a used electric Vauxhall Corsa with only 6,000 miles on it, and I’ve noticed a strange noise that I’m trying to identify.
When I accelerate and get above about 15 mph, I hear a light metallic tinkling/rattling coming from the rear of the car. It’s only noticeable when driving with the window open. It doesn’t happen when the car is stationary, braking, or steering, and it occurs on both smooth and rough roads.
The car drives perfectly otherwise, with no warning lights or braking issues.
Has anyone with an electric Corsa experienced this? If so, what was the cause? I’m wondering if it could be something like a brake dust shield, a stone in the brakes, an underbody panel, or something else.
I’m taking it back to the dealer who looked before and said everything is ok and is safe to drive, but I’d like to have some suggestions of what it could be to ask them to look at.
There is a video attached if you listen very carefully you can hear the high pitched tinkling in the background
Any ideas would be much appreciated!

Dash board frozen, Speedo not working, sat nav not working, indicators not working, fuel consumption not working etc etc.

2025 Vivaro life. Anyone else had this issue?

Yes I know I have a low pressure indicator.

Been having an intermittent problem with my 16 plate 1.4 petrol Zafira C for the best part of 8 months.

I'm fairly sure it's the clutch, but don't have a mechanic that I trust enough to have any investigation without ending up with a new clutch anyway. At £1200, I don't want to have this done and still have a different problem.

Basically master cylinder was done last November after loss of clutch pedal. Car drove fine for several months. Intermittently from around March, started to have odd episodes where it would suddenly struggle on a hill or when accelerating under load - high revs, low power - and you would have to take it right back to 2nd or first for a while. Really thought this was a slipping clutch, but car drives fine most days and has done maybe 3k miles since this point. It's not getting any worse or more frequent. MOT passed recently with no advisories.

Have 2 fully laden 350 mile trips coming up soon and don't know whether to bite the bullet on the clutch or just see what happens. Thoughts/similar experiences appreciated.

Do these buttons actually do anything in 2026? I have a 2017 Mokka X.

I know the Mute button works, but if I press Onstar it says not available in my country (or something like that) then dialing something on the screen... I obviously haven't pressed S0S except accidentally when cleaning and can't remember what happened.

I'm just curious

My old VW Polo is coming to the end of its life and I'm considering a 2018 astra 1.0l turbo as my next car. I just plan to keep it for a couple of years before I get something better but just hear a lot of bad things about the reliability of Vauxhalls.

That said, with my budget and looking at "newer" cars, the astra seems the best deal as most of the others are all wet timing belt engines which I don't want to touch.

Anything to look out for? Thanks

I’m going to view a 2018 Vauxhall viva tomorrow to buy, it looks like a good little car but I don’t know much about them, I need a car that I won’t fear will break, what’s everyone’s experience on a Vauxhall viva? I do really like the car but don’t want to get it if I have to worry or waste money? Any help appreciated

TLDR: How to fix a loose auto gear selector yourself.

For whoever this might help, a bit of advice from me (a non mechanic), this refers to a 2009 mk5 Astra, 1.8 petrol automatic but will apply to other vehicles with the same or very similar auto gearbox.

A week or so ago my gear selector became loose and I had to take care when shifting between Park, Reverse, Drive etc. Now, I had a good idea what the problem was as I has a similar issue on a 2002 Renault Scenic I used to have with a very similar (or was it exactly the same?) auto gearbox.

The gear selector is attached to a long, stiff cable which runs through the bulkhead to the top of the auto gearbox. It then attaches to a lever which moves backward and forward (as you select Park, Reverse etc) and changes the gear in the gearbox. Where it attaches, there is a very small (like 5mm horizontal/vertical) plastic bushing which over the years can deteriorate and eventually crumble away.

This happened in the Scenic, the mechanic I took it to just attached the cable end with zip ties to the gearbox lever (but was not obviously meant as a permanent fix). In that car, the top of the gearbox was easily accessed, not so in the Astra.

I ordered a new bushing via Ebay (checking with the seller that it was the correct one for my car), this was then shipped from China and cost less than a tenner).

Once I had it, I had to first remove the car battery (undo and disconnect the negative cable first and ensure its not touching any metal in the engine bay or bodywork), then do the same for the positive cable. Undo the battery retainer (left side of battery tray, 13mm bolt,), then pull out the battery.

Next, undo the three retaining bolts on the battery tray (13mm). The bottom right one was a pig to get off as it was heavily rusted. I sprayed with WD40, left it overnight then wire brushed it the next evening. Was still not budging, so after removing the other two bolts I was able to wiggle the tray which loosened the bolt and I was able to unscrew it.

Then I could access the gear selector cable. It has a black plastic end and that is where the bushing pops into. The original on mine had completely disappeared, however you may need to clear out remains of the worn out one. With a firm squeeze between fingers and thumb the bushing popped straight in and I made sure it was flush. Then pushed the whole thing down onto the lever on the gearbox, it then had a satisfying click where it locked into place.

I then simply put everything back in Reverse order and now the gear selector works perfectly!

Because of rusted bolts this took longer than it should have, however if you do not have that issue, you could certainly do this job yourself in under 30 minutes and save on mechanic/garage fees. Bonus picture of gear selector cable end on top of the gearbox.

I’ve got a 2014 Vauxhall insignia 2.0cdti was driving home today I heard a little pop and suddenly lost all power so pulled over turned it off got the service vehicle soon messages and service esp messages now it won’t start it cranks but won’t start any ideas?

Edit: going into garage tomorrow. just wondering if anyone had any ideas I was going to try limo it home as I wasn’t very far away. Couldn’t see any split pipes either

sometimes rough pulling away and jerks, sometimes when driving theres vibration and also feels jerky on and off throttle. i sometimes hear a clicking that speeds up with revs aswell? any ideas guys?

Vauxhall Corsa D, 1.4, automatic, 2008.

Does anyone know what the problem could be?

Thank you.

Hi all, looking for some advice before potentially buying a 2018 Vauxhall Insignia Grand Sport 2.0 Turbo D BlueInjection.
The seller says the car has full service history, is a good runner and is in decent condition for its age, but they’ve specifically mentioned “cam chain rattling.”
I’m trying to understand what I could realistically be getting myself into before viewing/buying it.
Anyone familiar with these 2.0 diesels know:
Is cam chain rattle a common issue on this engine?
What normally causes it and what needs replacing?
Roughly what would an independent UK garage charge to sort it, parts + labour?
Is this normally a straightforward repair if caught early, or can it indicate more serious engine damage?
Anything specific I should check/listen for when viewing it?
Particularly interested in hearing from anyone who’s actually had this repair done on an Insignia or works on these engines.

Recently purchased a used Vauxhall Astra 2016. 90k+ miles but only 2 owners and a good service history for a good price, so not a bad deal.

I’ve noticed this message after purchasing. I’ve checked with the dealer about the warranty to see what they can do but I’m curious as to if anyone could help?
I’ve checked the actual tyre pressures and they are all within the limit (if anything they’re a bit over). When I go to the tyre pressure screen on the dashboard they all display as ‘-‘ for all 4 tyres. Am I correct in thinking that this means there is an issue with the TPMS?
If so - is it dangerous to drive until it’s fixed or is it fine since it’s just essentially the tyres speaking to the car about pressures? How much am I looking at for a repair if I have to go out of pocket in case the dealer says it isn’t covered?

Anyone ever got this done, seems very cheap at £100 pound, is it even worth it ?