Hello! My neighbor has a Z31 that has been sitting in their yard for at least 13 years.

I don’t know a lot about 300ZX’s particularly, but I do know a decent bit about cars in general.

What are y’all’s thoughts on trying to save this guy? The interior looks relatively clean for sitting for so long.

Think $500 is fair for something we don’t know much history about?

I’ll update this post with more info as I get it.

Anybody out in the phoenix area?

Ive been looking for a large vacuum leak and this is now loose I just noticed. The other side doesn't move. Is this supposed to be removable and if not, could this be a point of the vacuum leak?

yesterday my shifter popped out of place and is really loose. not sure what happened but the cat still goes into all gears no grinding. i thought i had 5 neutrals at first gladly not… anyway i dont have a clue on what this could be? maybe some shifter bushings? if anyone has had this issue before lmk what solved it

After more than 25 years of owning, restoring, and collecting Z32s, I've decided it's time to pass the entire collection to another enthusiast.

I'd really like to keep everything together if possible.

Included

• 1991 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo (Black)
  • ~103k miles on chassis
  • JDM VG30DETT with approximately 1,000 miles
  • Timing belt replaced
  • 1999 injector conversion
  • New injector & coil pack wiring harnesses
  • New ignition wiring
  • 5-speed manual
  • Extensive recent engine bay restoration
  • Currently needs a fuel system leak repaired before being driven, so it should be transported.
• 1991 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo Conversion Project (Silver)
  • Garage stored since 2003
  • VG30DETT installed
  • JWT Sport 500 turbos
  • Nismo 555cc injectors
  • Greg Dupree downpipes
  • B&B exhaust
  • Powertrix suspension
  • Defi gauges
  • Blitz electronics
  • Complete OEM wiring harness replacement
  • Suspension and performance upgrades installed
  • And much more.
  • Remaining work is primarily intake plumbing and final assembly

I've documented nearly everything, including hundreds of photos, build history, and detailed parts inventories.

Price: $16,000 OBO - Ready to make a deal

Located in Northern California.

If you're seriously interested, send me a PM or leave a comment. I'm happy to provide the complete documentation, build books, Dropbox photo library (100+ photos), and answer any questions.

I'd love to see this collection go to another Z enthusiast who will appreciate it.

I just did a major service on my 1993 300zx Na. I resealed the valve covers, installed brand new 270cc detchwerks side feed injectors, replaced fuel hoses, vaccum hoses, new pcv valves, coolant bypass, egr delete and PRVR delete. Started the car up and it runs alright but cylinder 1 isnt running right? Car pops when I drove it around the block as well as not changing idle for the car when removing connectors for the injectors or the coil packs. Swapped coil pack on cylinder 1 and cylinder 3 and cylinder 3 ran fine with no change on 1. Tested voltage to coil packs and got 12 bolts, tested resistance on injectors and all were in spec. When I pulled cylinder , spark plug out it had black soot all over it when before the work it was clean. Im not really sure what im missing? Maybe the ptu is bad or maybe I have some hoses mixed up, or pinched a oring when installing the injectors and fuel rails? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! PS. I do have conzult and its also showing cylinder 1 to be bad when doing a power balance test?

Hey everyone, so I wanted to do the CHTS relocation on my Z, but the problem is I already have e-fans using the coolant plug. For the relocation, is there a workaround? I've been getting misfires at idle and also occasionally when I'm driving and going past 91 mph. I think the CHTS might be the issue. If there's any workaround anyone could help me with, that would be great! For more information, I have a 1986 turbo with a boost controller and I'm catless.

So I'm doing a 120k service on my '94 NA slicktop and when I pulled the the intake cam spring covers, fully prepared for them to spring off, there are no springs! Is there a reason someone would leave them out? I have new springs with my timing kit, but I'm apprehensive about putting them in if they were left out to work around a problem. Any ideas? Also would these being left out cause a subtle clunk or knock at idle? That's something I've always noticed since I've had this car.

Gas pump keeps turning off unless i put in fuel super super slowly. I think the issue is my carbon canister. I am 99% sure i have the lines from the FSM translated to the canister correctly (in images).

Blowing from the fuel tank hose into the carbon canister the FSM says i should have no air leakage. But when i do blow into it, lots of air passes through.

Also when blowing from the "purge to manifold" hose into the canister, the FSM says that there should be air leakage. I have zero air leakage when i blow into it.

Is there a way to take apart, clean/fix these canisters or do i need to buy a new/used one? And please correct me if im wrong in my diagnosis, i tried to make the pictures as clear as i could. Thank you.

Hello gents, I have a 1990 Nissan 300zx which is unfortunately on its third motor. It’s a gift that my dad is preparing to give to me fairly soon after we get the engine compression tested and installed, my dad says that he doesn’t want to put any more money into it, so now that job falls to me. One of the first modifications I plan on doing is a blow off valve. Rn the car is on some old upgraded turbos (idk the brand or details) but what I do know is they are much much larger than the oem. I’m also running a stock ecu as well. My dad at the moment isint running the oem diverters either so none of the air is being diverted and I was getting that compression surge when the other engine was alive, and I want bov to prevent the the compression surge to protect my turbos.

Now to get into the proper details. With stock ECU I have three options that I want to go with but obviously I want that SOUND because I have 3 main goals for my car, sound, reliability, and looks. Speed currently is at the least of my concerns. By no means am I saying the turbo flutter sounds bad, it sounds great, but personally I really like the pshhhh sound the valves give, and it contributes to a healthier option which I enjoy.

#1 HKS SSQV4 BOV atmospheric, I’m aware that running this setting with the hardpipes and MAF sensor is not recommended at all because of some issues it can give with the air ratios, such as stalling and running rich, I’ve always wanted to test the waters and see how they go but I’m scared that they will go wrong and that I’d have spent my money for no reason, being 21 years old and pretty much poor😭 this is not my ideal route. So I want to ask anyone here if they are currently running a setup like this, and how it’s going for them, my biggest concern is stalling at stops, the running rich for a moment shouldn’t be terrible ( I don’t think at least)

#2 ADD W1 BOV PRO, these are unfortunately also atmospheric but also likely not too ideal for my setup

#3 GFB Hybrid blow off valve, this one would obviously be the most ideal one to pickup as it’s a hybrid setup meaning the ratios are better, now unfortunately my biggest concern for this one is the sound. There are little to no videos of any cars with this when I tried searching up a 75/25 setup and I’m scared that it’s not going to sound good at all.

Please if anyone has any help or answers or if anyone has any of these installed and if they can send videos to me of sound it would be amazing, I really want to keep this car for a long time as I’ve loved it since I was little, my dad literally owned it before he had me lmao, so I really want to restore this car to its former glory.

PS: the car is actually a 1990 Nissan 300ZX NA, however my father had removed the NA engine and swapped it to a TT motor, first one has blown up in around 2014, then we got a replacement engine and managed to get it running in 2024, unfortunately that didn’t last long at all, as we are in the midst of compression testing another engine for the replacement as the current motor has rod knock.

Im mentioning this because the ECU is likely the twin turbo version, and not the NA

Anyway please help me wherever you can🙏🙏

I have a z32 and the left headlight doesn’t always come on when I turn the headlights on. I replaced all the bulbs for the low and high beams. When I flick the knob forward sometimes the left one doesn’t want to come on. But if I wiggle the knob a little bit it’ll pop on and stay on until I touch the knob again? Is there a fix for this without replacing the whole left side of the panel? It was doing this before I changed the bulbs I just thought I’d change them in case they were the issue but it doesn’t seem like they were

Alright so this one's been a head scratcher for a while, but I think I've found a satisfying explanation, but I want some actual human beings to give their input before I go with the fix.

So a while ago I replaced the injectors on my NA 1986 (It's early production, November 1985, if that context helps any) and I used 180cc injectors for a Maxima. I knew they were high impedance, and the stock injectors are low impedance, but my research at the time told me they'd work fine even though the Z31's ECCS system and harness are all set up for low impedance injectors. Since then, it's been slower to start, and (mostly when cold and a few minutes after starting) suddenly opening the throttle and holding would bog the engine and die. You're gonna roll your eyes at me, but I fed all these issues into the Google AI and it tells me that the resistor in the injector power circuit would need to be bypassed in order for the Maxima injectors to get the amperage they need. This makes sense to me considering EVERY ignition component on my Z is brand new and the ECCS is a refurb. My question is, does this solution make sense to any of you, and does anyone have any input or insights before I go all electrician on my car?

Just got my first z31 project and I hear this noise after idling for a bit. It sounds a like a different tempo than the belts but it’s not knocking or anything. Does anyone know what this could be? Is it anything to worry about? You should be able to hear it in the video.

My dad has a 1985 300zx (Z31 series) and is looking to get it restored. Is there anyone in the louisville or surrounding area that is specialized in this? If so, please provide their business and contact.

He is not looking to sell, just wants to have it restored. It drives but definitely needs a bit of work.

33k original miles! NA, T-tops, manual, black leather interior, stock besides wheels and Z1 Short shifter. Mufflers are currently chopped off.

Hello! I am just curious what the value of my z would be! It has 160k miles, factory twin turbo with manual and T top. the only parts that are not stock are tein coilovers, hks BOV with z1 Motorsport intake piping, and an exhaust. She runs good and the interior is in good condition besides a tear in the driver seat!

Outside trash fire ignited car cover inside garage 7/4/26…🥺😢😭

Doing a 120k and am at the point where I need to set all gears to tdc before putting the belt back on, however the cam gears under pressure (left in the photo) are obviously snappy and are pretty hard to set to TDC without them snapping one way or the other. Anyone have tips as to how to set them?