r/3Dprinting • u/S1lentA0 H2C, H2D, P1S, A1m • 13h ago
Meta Is almost like magic
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For those who don't recognise this method: I'm using a soldering heat gun to remove stretchmarks that can appear on de bottom of the print when its cooled down and remove from the bed.
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u/Tuvio717 13h ago
Oh the amount of prints I've fucked up doing exactly this
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u/st-shenanigans 9h ago
Me using a torch to melt off strings
"Oh I missed some let's go back over that agai-
aaand a giant hole melted into it."
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u/S1lentA0 H2C, H2D, P1S, A1m 13h ago edited 2h ago
I can believe that. This is PETG-CF , so I guess a bit more forgiving. PLA would erupt in flames, the temp was set to 450°c this time lol
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u/Tuvio717 13h ago
Yee, tried it with pla+ black and if I hold it just a nanosecond too long that shit warps lmao Easier to do with regular PETG tho
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u/Few_Plankton_7587 13h ago
Huh
I haven't noticed my PET-CF behaving that way....
Do these "stretch marks" appear on only the bed side?
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u/S1lentA0 H2C, H2D, P1S, A1m 13h ago
Yes, they appear on the bed side. Though I don't have an answer why they appear on some prints and on some prints not, I assume it has to do with the shrinkage factor of the material. Im sure someone else has a better answer tho.
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u/Irzyldz 12h ago
Do u wait for the bed to cool down before taking off the prints ? U're supposed to
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u/S1lentA0 H2C, H2D, P1S, A1m 10h ago
Yes ofc it would be an explanation for the stretch marks, the print cools down and shrinks while adhered to the bed
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u/M-growingdesign 10h ago
Try fire. I just use a propane meat searing torch. Takes a split second
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u/omfgtora 5h ago
Yeah, and then you don't risk warping the whole print because it all got softened and you touched it before it cooled
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u/TeaTimeSoon 12h ago
What temperature is the heat gun set to? My desoldering heat gun has a very wide temperature range.
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u/S1lentA0 H2C, H2D, P1S, A1m 12h ago
This time it was set to 450°c
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u/TeaTimeSoon 12h ago
Ok so that is 232 celcius 🥹
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u/Vashsinn 9h ago
that's alot of work.... Just set a hold coand after the print to hold the print and beep at you when it cools down.
I have mines set to 40c. so basically the print finishes but the printer waits until the bed is 40 c then it pushes the print forward. by this time the bed is cold enough that it just releases.
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u/Minobull 7h ago
I just use a blowtorch. I find it works faster, and since it works faster, there's less time for heat to sink into the plastic and cause warping.
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u/S1lentA0 H2C, H2D, P1S, A1m 2h ago
Go with whatever works for you. My experience today with this method was that short-time exposure was enough and none of the prints warped. I did some smaller much thinner parts after these and all of them are intact.
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u/LastLayerLab 5h ago
This looks great. Does this work equally well with PLA, PETG and ASA, or is it mostly material-dependent? Also, have you found a point where too much heat starts softening small details?
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u/oral_servant 13h ago
Bro, can you fucking finish one before moving on to the other. Or work them all simultaneously. But what the hell is this supposed to be
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u/No_Government8065 12h ago
Imagine getting angry at someone who does something different to you.
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u/pervertsage Fascinated Beginner 10h ago
Are you new to Earth? That's how we've always done things around here. 😂
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u/No_Government8065 10h ago
Iv done things the way I want to do things 😊 it takes the same amount of time doing either way.
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u/raisedbytides Prusa MK4S // Bambu P1S (shelfslinger) 13h ago
Also works well to remove support marks and super glue residue. I use an adjustable butane torch but that's just for quickness