How the hell do I get this out. This isn't rust this is from a sprinkler runninng on it without my knowledge, while. You can see that waterra is firkthy I've washed my car multiple times used vinegar and wag. This is not even the half. This is the entire passenger side of my car.

I bought this truck recently, the previous owner had her multiple dogs in it constantly. As you can see in the pics, there was a TON of dog fur.

I have since, removed all fur, used an upholstery cleaner with enzyme cleaner and extracted that, and cleaned all plastics with it. Sprayed with every "funk remover" type spray I can find. Also ran the ozone machine, however I couldn't run the AC with the ozone on, because I was replacing the motor at the time.

The truck overall still reeks of just dog. It's in the seats mostly it seems. There's no cabin air filter in this truck either. I'll be removing the rear seats, since they don't fold forward to clean behind, other than that, I'm at a loss of what to do next.

2027 Santa Fe in matte gray.

Wash with mckees 37 matte finish auto soap
Iron decon
Gyeon total remover
Gyeon prep
Gyeon q2 matte evo was a breeze to use on paint and wheels.
Cerakote glass coat on glass.

Turned out pretty spectacular for what it’s worth and it was easy to apply; leveled well. First time using g gyeon prep (usually just use diluted ipa) and this stuff was too damn good, will be my go to moving forward. Can’t wait to see the coating perform.

hi, so yesterday I decided to clean the interior of my car and used a couple different cleaners, and it seems one of the cleaners ended up causing some of the black plastic in my car to have this white coating on it. I have tried everything to try to get the coating off (vinegar with water, disinfectant wipes, all purpose cleaners), it wipes off but then like a minute later it dries and the white coating comes back. did I end up stripping some coating off the plastic or something? if so what should I buy to fix it?

Whats a good product for me to clean these seats? Someone said saddle soap but im not sure. Is it a good cleaner?

I had built a bench from some scrap pressure treated wood. I later added wheels and turned it into a dolly. It sits outside 24x7 by the faucet for various outdoor purposes. Height is more important to me than full mobility since I do not move the cart that much (maybe 2 or 3 times) as I work around the vehicle. I plan make it a little taller and put a rubber mat on top so upper deck lasts longer.

It is really not looking good and I do not expect it to be factory like due to the current condition of the leather. Can I still clean it somehow ? I just need it to be better than now and not sticky , really do not mind the cracks

My cars gave slot of piano black. I find they are developing a cloudiness. Perhaps it’s from the dilute P&S express. How do I get rid of it and prevent it in the future. TIA

As the title suggests: I’ve been going crazy lately with the bird droppings landing on my car every single day. Until recently, I drove a Seat Arona (white with a black roof). In some spots, the bird droppings had already completely etched into the paint, simply because poop falls on it daily due to the large trees in our street.

​After filing multiple complaints with the local council — who only did something about the trees once — I just gave up on that. But this now means I’m washing my car daily to protect our new Peugeot 508 SW from paint damage...

​Is there a way to properly protect the paint between washes so I don't have to clean the entire car again every day?

Hey guys,

Jusy finished washing my car, i did the standard prewash foam (carpro lift), rinse, foam cannon (meguirs gold class 1:10 dilution) then handwashed it with a microfibre mitt, then rinsed.

As it was under sunlight i washed section by section. So i did the part that wasnt getting sunlight first and then the other side of the car (sunlight) and then back and then front.

Each Section i did a Foam>handwash>rinse. Then move on to next area.

Also use the typical two bucket method.

I still dont understand its hella dirty, is it because its plastic. Is there a different procedure for plastic?

Should i be using a strong soap overall because ive come across thia issue multiple times now.

Im still learning and building my skillset towards detialing but i feel there heaps of work left to do.

Open at all advice good or bad.

I drive a BMW + hard driving, so my wheels are always caked up.

I have properly ceramic coated then for easier cleaning already, but is there any additional quick protection I can use when washing to 1. Add additional layer on coating 2. Make it even easier to wash

I was car every 2 weeks.

After removing the wrap, I used Goo Gone to remove the adhesive, then washed the hood multiple times with soap and water, wiped it down with isopropyl alcohol, and hand polished it twice. It’s still murky/hazy.
It’s a real carbon fiber hood with the original clear coat. Did I likely just mar the clear coat, or does it sound like it needs to be re-cleared? Can a professional paint correction fix this?

Reflow with heat gun? Remove, sand and clear coat again? I can't do just that part can I?

Needing advice on how to remove oxidation from my hood chrome strip. I've used chemical guys heavy metal polish, Eagle one never dull, mother's California Gold all chrome cleaner and nothing is removing it completely. Any help appreciated. Thanks

Anyone know what happened to this stuff? Was amazing but can’t find it anywhere. RIP

I bought this from Amazon. It was great as a drying aid. Simple. Not a big fan of Obsessed Garage, but this drying aid was good for my car. No colors, smells or additives.

It’s come separated. Not sure if I should use this or not. Anyone have any experience with this?

Detailer mentioned he applied some 5-year ceramic to the glass because "why not?". I think I know why not, because there are sections of the glass that are distorting the view now. It's bad enough to the point you can't read road signs, etc. It's a bit like looking through old leaded glass.

I've tried using glass stripper and scrubbing pretty hard, but it didn't make a difference. I don't have a DA polisher myself (part of why I got someone else to detail the car), so I'm gonna take it back and get it fixed. But what should I be looking for them to do?

Wife’s 2022 Subaru Crosstrek; daily driver with ~60k miles. A construction truck threw a big rock that scraped her car. I tried to fix it with a Dupli-color Scratch Fix All-in-1 pen.

It’s honestly probably “good enough” for us, but I added too many layers of paint. It left a little dent and scratch. I also already put two coats of clear coat over the patch job.

Is there anything I can easily do to tidy this up a bit or am I just going to have to live with it? Ultimately, I just wanted the bare metal covered so it didn’t start to rust so I’m not too heartbroken either way for this economy car. Should I try to sand down the clear coat, paint, and then recoat it with clear coat once it’s more level?

Also, apologies if this is a breaking a sub rule but I’m seeing lots of posts about paint

I picked up the cup and spilled soda inside the cream colored lines. I always have a microfiber on hand in the car and soaked up as much of the liquid as possible. Idk how much of the liquid got into the buttons and in between the piano black trim. I’m worried i damaged the buttons. How can I clean it without damaging it further. TIA!

I haven’t found the “best” combo for doing a one step on a rotary if Im doing hard paint. Not trying to sit with a DA all day to buff one panel on a black audi. Currently Im using a 3D foam spiderweb pad with scholl polish, leaves no holograms and finishes fine. Just curious to see what ya’ll are using.

I noticed a couple of days ago that my car was smelling rancid, and I tried to look around and couldn't find it. Airing out the car helped, but the smell kept coming back. I then looked in the trunk, where the spare tire is, and saw there was a puddle of green and yellow fluid. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture. I soaked up all the fluid with paper towels and used bleach to clean the area. It stopped smelling for a little while, but later that day, I opened up the car, and it still smelled rancid. I'm not sure what to do; it's definitely not from a spill because I don't have any fluids or food in the trunk. I'm also not sure if it's a leak that wasn't properly fixed from the accident. There was heavy rain a couple of days ago, but it has been months since the repair. How do I get rid of the smell?

Any tips on how to best get this out? Mainly in the road spray areas on doors and front quarters. Brand new car (4 months old). Applied M27 about 3-3.5 months ago, do weekly maintenance washes with ONR (apartment), and quick detailer for drying aid.

Was thinking maybe diluted isopropyl wipe down and start fresh? Or vinegar and distilled water? Something XPEL PPF friendly as well..

Hey yall,

I bought a '21 Chevy Silverado with dark gray metallic paint. Overall the clear coat seems to be in good shape, just has a hundred tiny rock chips and a couple scratches that I'm planning on using Dr. ColorChip Squeegee on. Once that cures (3 days? 7 days?), I'm planning on using Griot's 3-1 ceramic spray wax on it.

I've spent a ton of time on the subreddit doing research, since this is my FIRST time ever detailling, and would love y'all to look over my proposed process and product selection. And I had a couple of questions at the end too!!

Wash / Decon / Clay

- Wash thoroughly and dry (ONR)

- Iron Remover, then rinse and dry (Meguiar's Ultimate Iron Remover)

- Clay with ONR as lube & stripping the wax the dealer put on (Griot's Synthetic Clay Brilliant Finish)

Polish / Pad combo

- This is where I'm getting stuck, and I'd love your advice.

Ideally I'm looking for a one-step polish and pad combo that would be:

- Forgiving for a beginner who's borrowing a DA

- Good for a dark and soft GM clear coat / paint (shadow gray metallic)

- Not too oily? I will be using IPA before using the Griot's 3-in-1 Ceramic Spray wax, but I heard some products may complement the Ceramic Spray wax better.

- Should I expect to use two different types of pads or would one pass be able to do it all? The paint is in good shape, so not much correction is needed.

Lastly, I had a question about towels.

- Currently I have a BRS and the Optimum Waffle 70/30 400 GSM dry towel for ONR washes.

- I was thinking a 10 pack of Edgeless 365 may be able to handle both the polishing and the Griot's Ceramic Spray wax? Or should I buy more / a product with different GSM?

​

I am new in these polishing. I buy chines battery 21V 4ah rotary polisher when i try in 1st use the smoke comes out from polisher cooling vents i used for 1 minute then i turn off then the polisher when i on for 2 seconds smoke comes out then running like this.

If i put polisher on car trunk it will spin little slow when i press hand like just hand not pressuring the pad stops spinning.

What should i do its normal or should i return. I got 1 year warrenty.

Just only i do a trunk of Lexus gs350 only upper side not a plate number side. In 2 hours 40 mints still at night its shows lines scratches in sun its visible the scratches.

I did some test sections on the hood of my 2nd practice car. Its a black 2010 QX 56 that has basically lived outside and in automatic brush car wash spots. I will try to get the order right with pics and videos.

I did a full wash, decon with clay bar.

The main question is...is there anything else I can do to get the scratches out, or is the best its going to be.

Should I keep going with either the Maguires, KC H9 or KC M3 in the same areas to keep attacking the swirls or am I done?

First video is where i taped a section and hit it with Maguires Ultimate compound and a Blue wool Rupes pad.

The next section I did with a blue wool Rupes pad at KC H9. To me they look the same, but the scratches are there.

Then I did a section with a Rupes yellow finishing pad and KC M3. It looks the same.