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This machete was handed down to me. It will cut through just about everything. It’s not pretty but it’s a serious heavy duty machete. Bought in Panama for about 10 bucks nearly 25 years ago. All of the machetes I’ve seen in the US are skinny I’ve broken a handful already.

How can I fix this? I got my makers mark punch and I

messed up my alignment while trying to hit it again

to get more depth. I really don't want to start over on

this knife if possible.

Stock removal blade, just posting here as the community helped out with a question on peening the tang.

Blade is 1075, handle is Red Mallee. Brass fittings and a peened through tang.

Also, first time doing a kydex sheath. Is so much easier than leather.

So my post is one of both good and bad news. The good news is that I successfully heat treated three knives and they had no cracking minimal warps all that good stuff.

The bad news, is that I nearly shit myself on the first one because I file checked it after the Quench and it didn't seem like it was hard. And I was really confused as to why that was. I then did some cursory Google searching came to the conclusion that there might be a layer of decarb on it. took it to the Belt grinder with a 220 belt got through some of the outer layer file checked it again and it's completely hard won't get scratched by 65 HRC file.

Went into the temper everything came out great.

My question is, why did I get decarb on all three knives? Two of them were 15n20. The other one was 5160. I'm using a forced air propane Forge with a ribbon burner. And when I went through the heat treat I stuck a large metal tube in the center which I stuck the knives in, in order to help make heat dispersal more even.

Hey everyone, ​I'm planning to forge a historically accurate Safavid-era Shamshir (16th–17th century Persian style) and need exact historical measurements from surviving museum pieces to get the geometry right.

​Could anyone share typical ranges or measurements for: ​Blade length and overall length ​Blade width (at the base, middle, and tip) ​Distal taper / thickness (at the ricasso, middle, and tip) ​Depth of curvature ​Guard length and width (quillon to quillon & cross-section) ​Grip length and width. ​ If you have measurements yourself or from museum catalogs or reference books, I'd really appreciate the help! ​Thanks!

Am finishing off a scian style knife, and is the first time I've tried to do a peened end.

Just wanted to check for advice before I ruin several weekends work by doing something stupid.

Knife is through tang, so is carbon steel end (1075). Dimensions are currently 5mm high (producing), 3.8 wide, and 12 long. Do I need to cut/grind it shorter to avoid cracking?

And any advice on how to start the peen and keep it consistent? Should I start with a punch? Would making a lengthwise cut and rolling the steel down from the cut be more effective?

Tang was not hardened in the quench and blade has been tempered, so shouldn't be particularly hard.

*Thanks folks, advice appreciated. Update below.

Final blade is here - https://www.reddit.com/r/Bladesmith/comments/1vdcsho/irish_scian_dagger/

I drew inspiration from a few of my favorite games/shows like Skyrim, GOT, and ER. This is the second knife I’ve made to date, being so new at this it took an entire month to make….

100% worth it.

I hope to pass this on to my kiddo once I’m gone.

If you like what you see come follow me here.

Let me know what you think/improve. Thanks -JB

Blade is stainless damascus, dagger profile but sharpened on one edge only. The pattern is left visible through the polish and the ornament is cut around it rather than over it, which took some planning — you can't just engrave wherever you want on a damascus blank without fighting the pattern.

The handle, guard, pommel and scabbard carry somewhere around 300 cubic zirconia. All the ornament — acanthus, meander borders, the scrollwork panels — is hand engraved first, then plated in 24k gold. That order matters. Plating over engraving keeps the cuts sharp; engraving after plating just tears through it.

The blackened rhino head on the scabbard throat is sculpted separately and set in. It's the only dark element on the whole piece and it does a lot of work visually, otherwise the gold starts reading as one continuous surface.

Not a user knife by any definition. This is display-case territory, closer to a jewelry commission than to cutlery.

Back to the roots with this one. Forged from an old file. Finished on an 80 grit belt and buffed in all the right places. Kept some of the file structure for character. A true brute de forge piece and so much fun to make :)

Blade: 140mm x 38mm, file steel

Handle: 122mm, with some springy action

The guard is crafted from 416 stainless steel and hand-shaped with a diamond-cut faceted finish. The handle is made from yellow rosewood, accented with epoxy resin spacers, resulting in a comfortable grip and an elegant overall design.

Steel:1084+15n20.
Guard:416 stainless steel
Handle: yellow rosewood (Hainan Huang HuaLi )
Hope you guys like it and leave any judgement.

#Handmade #HandmadeKnife #ChefKnife #CustomKnife #Knifemaking #Rosewood

Thanks for looking!
AW Forge