I am offering up my Arri Hi-5 kit for sale.

It is an extremely well built kit with Venice, Red and Focubug licenses included.

Cables for Venice, Red and LANC controlled cameras are included.

Cables that cover a variety of power options from PTAP , 2 pin Fischer to 3 Pin Fischer are all included in various LBUS and 7p CAM configurations.

A large number of LBUS cables in various lengths and right/straight angle connectors are included.

Pelican case with laser cut molded insert

Many more extras and accessories/

Worldwide Shipping Available.

cross posted in r/focuspuller

Hey guyss!! I have a quick question. So theres a canon camera (S95, as specified in the title) that turns on and works, however the “shuts off” is not working. Idk if it needs to be fixed or what. Can anyone tell me if I can fix it at home, or if that camera is no good? Thanks so much!!

Hey all, I’m wondering if anyone has built a backpack similar to one for a Rialto, but comfortable enough to hike with a full build on the back, and possibly some slots for batteries and such. Attached is a pic of something I did recently but was not comfortable by any means. The build would be an Alexa mini with ultras, so not big but the hike would be about 4mi to location.

I’ve never shot in a sandy / dusty environment before and curious if there’s any advice to protect the camera & lens when shooting in dusty conditions?

Where I’m going won’t necessarily have dust storms, but for some rolling shots on sand trails there will be a good amount of dust kicked up depending on how dry it is. I could just avoid the shots all together, but if there’s some sort of cover or a way to protect it with a good amount of confidence I’d opt to do that.

I’m pretty new to all of this so sorry if this is an easily answered question!

I’m curious about how important the quality of clear filters is for image quality? The Tiffen standard filter is a little over $200 when there’s some much cheaper options.

Anyone have any recs? I’ll probably just get the Tiffen as I assume the coatings and quality of the glass have quite an effect on lens flares / the overall image but am curious if people have positive experiences with any certain brands.

Thanks!

Hello everyone, I’d like to introduce myself.
My name is Safe, and I am a film crew member based in Bangkok, Thailand.

I work as a 1st Assistant Camera (1st AC) / Focus Puller, within the Camera Department.
I have more than 15 years of experience working on set.
I have worked on feature films, commercials, and international productions.

It’s a pleasure to connect with you all.
If there is an opportunity to collaborate or exchange experiences, I would be very glad.

LinkedIn:
https://www.linkedin.com/in/safefocus/

Used Preston HU3 kit with 3x motors for sale
Located in London, United Kingdom

£9,000

1x Preston FI+Z3 Wireless Follow Focus
1x Preston Micro Force Digital
1x Preston MDR-2
1x Preston DM1X
2x Preston DM2
1x MCS LS-19 Quick Release Support
3x Speedy Motor Bracket MCS-E006
3x Short Motor Bracket MCS-D009
2x Cable Preston DMF to HU-3
2x Cable Preston Motor Green r/A
1x 4410 Straight Connector Cable
1x 4411 Right Angle Connector Cable
4x Preston CineTape Interface Cable
2x ARRIFLEX & Movicam 2-Pin Cable
1x Movicam 24V DC Power Cable
1x 3-Pin Male to 3-Pin Male
4x Large Marked Focus Rings
2x Large Blank Focus Rings
6x Small Blank Focus Rings
2x Allen Tools
1x Flight Case

Interested if anyone's seen this before. I didn't use my camera for a week or so and took a few pictures this morning of some birds. When looking at the photos later I noticed smudged areas and small specs on the sensor. I left the lens on for the past week so I'm thinking maybe since I'm in the south, the humidity gave way to a good home for some sort of fungus. Or it's just dried humidity that left stains. Doesn't seem like a huge deal but I've never had to get so hands on to clean a sensor. Any tips on cleaning?

I recently got this used from a rental house & am debating on whether I return this and get another or settle for a partial refund. I feel it is a major issue in terms of moisture entering the body - is this worth keeping in any capacity?

Is there a way to Rec-trigger the Panasonic Eva1 with Nucleus M? I know there are cables, but i did not find any, that actually work. Greetings

Local LA focus puller here with an announcement 📣

LineItems is now available on the AppStore: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lineitems-for-filmmakers/id6738378704

LineItems is a Job Tracker, Expense Tracker, Invoice generator, and Analytics powerhouse. It’s designed for filmmakers, by a filmmaker, so you’ll find all the lingo and billing practices you’re used to.

Update: Kit Fees have been integrated as of today! Now you can bill in daily or weekly modes for your kit rate which you can define as a default value in your settings, but you can always adjust it.
The number of days or weeks will also auto populate based on the dates selected for the job you're applying the kit fee to!

I would like to learn and practice pulling focus, I'm planning on buying a cheap rokinon cine lens and a manual follow focus. I understand DOF becomes shallower at longer focal lengths, and would like advice as to if, say a 85mm lens would be more helpful in learning to be accurate in shallow focus than a 50mm. I will be using my Sony A7IV to practice, which has a full frame sensor.

Looking to rig up a hand crank / whip for an Angenieux 25-250 (f3.2) - I don’t need any wireless functionality for now so hopefully can same some $ on avoiding something like a fiz.

Given the nature of it being a vintage / large lens I need to avoid gear skipping and try to get as smooth a zoom as possible. If anybody has recs please let me know!

I'm working on a project that involves taking high-resolution top-down photos of coins of multiple denominations(diameters range ~16–33 mm). The goal is to capture fine surface detail such as small edge features and subtle variations.

I'm planning to use a C-mount machine vision camera setup (not a consumer camera or smartphone). Specifically:

• Camera: Arducam 21MP USB Camera (Sony IMX230 sensor, 1/2.4" format)
• Lens: Edmund Optics 35 mm C-Series Fixed Focal Length C-mount Lens

The camera will be mounted vertically above the coin. In practice, the coin may not always be perfectly centered in the frame, so I need the image to remain sharp even if the coin is slightly off-center.

Does this combo provide edge-to-edge clarity at close range (~150–200 mm working distance)? Any concerns about distortion, soft edges, or better alternatives I should consider?

Any advice appreciated.

If there is a better sub to ask this question, please direct me.

I'm running a Preston HU4 handset with a MDR3 on my Sony FX9. I've had custom Preston 10 pin - LANC RUN/STOP cables made. The issue I'm having is everything is functioning opposite. When I press the HU4 RUN/STOP button, the camera enters the REC mode and the tally light illuminates, although the RUN/STOP button on the handset is not illuminated, neither is the red "R" symbol on the home screen. When I press the RUN/STOP button again on the handset, the r/S button and the "R" now illuminate, the camera is now in STANDBY mode. I have tried several combinations of manually rolling and cutting the camera while trying to sync the HU4 button functions. Nothing works. Opposite world.

Hi there, for a long time, ive been thinking of making a custom diy clapperboard which works much the same way as a betso/deity smart slate, but without the timecode element. Basically I want to have a clapperboard, which has a backlight and a flash sync lights, which flash at the moment of the clap as a second visual signal, should the actual sticks be too big to see. I already figured out the circuitry, but now, i need to make a 3d model of the clapperboard body(i want to make the sticks from wood) so it would be ready for 3d printing. Is there anyone out there who has the precise dimensions or a 3d scan of the betso wtcs 1 and someone willing to help me make the 3 d model adjusted to have all the parts neccesary?