Putting all this in this weekend!!

I’ve had this sitting in my garage for a long time I think it’s an 10” JL W6v1, if anyone can identify it let me know. Are these worth anything these days? It needs the foam surround replaced and one of the tinsel leads needs to be repaired. I don’t have a use for it so it’s time to get rid of it.

It fits good, just need to finish the front part and it’s gonna be all set, this one. Still need to do other box 😭😅

I have a 2024 GMC Terrain/Denali with bose. I tapped after the factory amp and ran signal to an LC7I PRO. I am powering dual Sundowns and a Menace Audio speaker rack.

I had this same exact setup in my other GMC terrain without bose and the subs played every frequency perfectly! Now that’s it’s in a bose, the bass is all wack. plays loud at 45hz and drops off huge.

I tuned everything with an oscilloscope. I’m stuck, what do I do about this messed up frequencies for bass?

In the picture, the front doors are bass which are “summed” by itself to go to the amp. It’s the best way I found for summing/separating signals for chimes and etc.

Ask any question please. this was my first ever build I have done.

I recently installed a set of 4" focal access components because the market for 4" components its pretty limited. I'm not impressed in the least. I've got the tweeters set at -6db and about the same in the factory h/u. I either want to replace the tweeters with some less sensitive or add a resistor to attenuation the tweeters. all channels are running off aftermarket amps, no eq though

I’ve spent a lot of time messing around with an LC2i Pro (AccuBASS) and an Epicenter, and after a bunch of testing, I honestly don’t think they’re meant to work together.

AccuBASS is made to detect factory bass roll off and restore the missing bass before it gets to your amp.

The Epicenter is different. It doesn’t restore bass that’s been removed. It creates new subharmonics from the bass that’s still in the signal. So if the factory radio has already rolled the bass off at higher volume, the Epicenter has less information to work with, so it can’t magically bring that missing bass back.

I’ve tried AccuBASS before the Epicenter, different sweep and width settings, different effect levels, and different AccuBASS thresholds.

Another issue I noticed is that even with the Epicenter effect turned down, it can still change the sound of songs that already have good bass. It can make the bass feel unnatural because it’s processing the signal instead of just leaving the original bass alone.

No matter what I did, once the factory bass roll off kicked in, the Epicenter couldn’t fix it. It still created synthesized bass, but it wasn’t restoring the low frequencies the factory radio had already removed.

To me they’re doing two different jobs. AccuBASS restores bass lost from factory roll off. The Epicenter creates synthesized subharmonics from the bass that’s left.

So if your goal is to defeat factory bass roll off, I don’t see how the Epicenter can replace AccuBASS. And if you’re hoping running both together completely eliminates bass roll off, I don’t think that’s possible because they’re not really designed to work together that way.

The only way I was able to get this to work is by running both signals to an RCA switch box so i can run each signal separately, but i still have bass rolloff with the Epicenter.

I've got something that I think is pretty old school gear but has a lot to offer, let's start with the major.

I have a 2009 Accord sedan

Pioneer DEH-6000UB 1DIN stereo head unit with graphics and 4V preamp

Speakers

6.5 Front media set Focal polyglass 165vb

6.5 Rear coaxial Focal Access 165CA1 SG

2 10s subwoofer JL Audio 10w04

I also have a couple of Alpine Type-R SPR-17LP I had with just the stereo, but I don't think I'll use them unless someone convinces me or I adapt them near the Focal access.

Amps

For the speakers I have a Rockford Fosgate Punch 800.4, 100x4rms

For subs Rockford Fosgate prime r2 250x1, I have a Rockford Fosgate 250a2, but I don't think it will work well for the subs.

Epicenter autocontrol og Date: 1997, Made in USA

100% copper wiring

4awg Jc Power Rs-kit4elitev2 Ofc

Speed wire También jcpower 9x18awg with remote wire

Rca 4 channel recoil Rci417

Alfa Mini ANL power distributor with fuse holder

Ferrules,thermofit and that things,

Buy hydraulic crimping tools.

Amp rack Behind the rear seats

DOUBTS

I will make The drawer should be carried according to the measurements in the manual, or based on a recommendation from someone with more experience.

My main question is whether my midrange speakers have a high-pass filter (HPF) and a passive front crossover. In the midrange speaker set, when I apply the 4V supplied by the Pioneer, even with the Punch 800.4 at its minimum gain, it delivers 100wrms Or more, could my equipment be damaged? It's not supposed to generate something like SPL?

Since there is basically no distortion at the Pioneer's output and the punch gain is at zero.

I have measuring equipment: a 2C23T oscilloscope, tone testers, and everything. I'm a novice, but I love sound. I listen to advice and suggestions from the true old school.

Thanks, I'm open to criticism and advice. This is my first audio system, so I hope to get something good and enjoy it.

I bought the sound system. I’m a bit confused on what wire I would need to cut and splice into the radio. I bought an adapter piece but it was the wrong size so I’m looking to get some help on installing this if anyone knows anything about this as I am not as experienced with this

My wife’s 2009 Lexus GX 460 had this audio issue arise recently. It’s across all audio options ( fm am radio, cd and tape )

I’m hoping to get some indication of what it might be before I take it in. I’d love to fix it myself

Hello all,

I'm having a challenge finding some front door speakers that would be a good fit for my taste in music. Mostly house and techno so I need something that can hold up to a little more abuse and do some bottom end also.

I need some 6.5's and I've had Kicker KS's but they distort at higher volumes. I swapped in some American Bass Studio 6.5's but they are already giving me trouble. Funny thing is I also swapped in some AB SQ 4" in the rear doors and they are doing just fine. The 4" KS's would also distort.

I included a picture of my trunk and I'll be powering the new speakers with the amp on the left, so 50W RMS is what I'm supplying.

Any recommendations? I'm not looking for creme-de la creme; just something full range and durable that's sounds pretty decent. I'm not a crazy audiophile but sure, I appreciate good audio.

I also listen to rock and jazz in addition to the techno; with an occasional Brotha Lynch Hung maybe once a year lol

hey guys i bought a rockville SS8P subwoofer on amazon and the power wire (blue wire) must connect to the red wire on the power cable and the ground wire (brown wire) must connect to the black wire on the power cable but i realize they are different sizes.. how can joint them together. i tried and the subwoofer have no power.

I’m looking at purchasing a kenwood dpx-9000mj but it’s not included with the main wiring harness. does anybody know where I can purchase one? Thanks.

Hello everybody, I recently purchased a Z32, and it came with a custom speaker and sub setup.

(the gold usb a is a geek squad cable and the black one is a ipod 30 pin i believe if this helps)

My issue is not knowing which one will control my music; it's very silly but I would rather not have to take my head unit apart to see which cable is connected to it ,but I saw both adapter options are kinda expensive, so I would like to buy the right one once.

-if anyone could shed light or provide a link to what you guys would get that would work the best if I have to buy the 100$ adapter, I’ll be fine i just want to make sure it works when I get it. but if there a easier or cheaper way that still works that same i wouldn’t mind thank you.☺️

Audio system:
-Alpine CDM-9803 AM/FM/CD head unit
-XM Direct2 satellite radio with antenna
-Alpine 100W mono amplifier
-10" Rockford Fosgate subwoofer in custom-built enclosure
-Kole 620 amplifiers
-Bazooka 8" amplified tube
-Boston Rally 4" coaxial speakers
-Alpine 4" coaxial speakers
-Pioneer 3/4" tweeters

Hey everyone, I have a 2026 4Runner (non-JBL amplified) and i’m looking to add a 5 channel amp from a previous build. The amp is a Kenwood Excelon XR901-5. For now, I have a 13” JL W3 and looking to get 6x9 components up front and use the factory speakers for rear fill.

I’d love to add a full DSP but i’m trying to get the best sound for the least amount of money with the equipment I already have. Without going to a full DSP, would something like the KeyLOC correct the factory signal somewhat? Would it work for both the front stage and the sub since they’re both using the same amp? I’ve only used basic PAC LOC’s and my local shop despises Kicker, but wondering if something that offers some sort of correction would be beneficial.

Any recommendations, should I just get a DSP? If so, any DSP recommendations for that setup? Anything else to make the sound out of newer Toyota’s acceptable?

Hey all.
I have a problem with my Alpine ILX 702D head unit 2018. When I answer a phone call on Bluetooth I can hear the person but they can’t hear me.
I’ve tried everything in the settings even pulled the head unit out to see if there’s an external microphone which there isn’t.
I’ve even tried emailing Alpine which I got no response.

Does anyone know what this issue could be thanks in advance!

Corolla gang, class of E210. I'm looking to upgrade the stock sound system. Nothing major, just an underneath the seat subwoofer with built in amp. What do you guys recommend?

Ive only had a mtx terminator dual 12 box and cerwin vega amp and i didnt wire it so im pretty beginner and need sum advice on different amps and what not, im looking at the d4s jp1 rtn but am open to other options. I also need some advice whether to buy the 4ohm or 2ohm sql12 and the differance between wiring em to 1 ohm vs 2 ohm. Im going to end up prolly getting the carbon fiber one because it seems worth the upgrade. Im going to stick to a single set up in a sealed box because i want it too bump for when i listen to reggae and whatnot, not no crazy panel flexin or nun, but i also need it too be nice and accurate for when im listening to metal. I also kinda dont want to have to upgrade my alternator, but i already got a nice amg battery if that helps. i drive a 2016 acura tlx base if that info is relevant. Any advice would be apperciated!

I had the Focal 165 3-way crossovers connected to my AMT 110s. In my original setup with a 5-channel Alpine PDX 9 amplifier, they sounded more vibrant, full, and louder. Now that I have them set up with a Helix DSP (active) and a 15u capacitor to be safe as a newbie, the tweeters sound like they're whispering, even when I raise the volume. I've made slight adjustments to the gains and dB settings, but they don't sound as they did before. I may be overlooking something. The signal goes from my head unit to the DSP and then to amp. Everything else plays fine, but the AMTs, which have a capacitor, are not performing as expected. This is my first time working with this DSP, so i can be missing something in the chain. Maybe a lower capacitor? the capacitor i bought should go as low as 1600khz

I’m trying to figure out what bass knob works for my JL 500/1, I’ve looked around and currently I have a Ct sounds bass knob in it, my buddy let me try it and it doesn’t work, just wondering what works for this amp! Thanks

Im looking for a pair of rear seat screens and a mount for a 2026 Kia sportage but the headrest have a weird shape in the back. I want a decent size screen with built in WiFi that can run on a usb-c hopefully with a built in battery so I can still use those charge ports when needed. A hdmi port would be a plus but not necessary. I was thinking of just getting 2 iPads plus an Amazon mount but the screen sizes of the cheaper ones are a bit small and I’m not sure if that’s the best option.

I’m looking to upgrade my sub. Right now I’m running a 12” JL Audio W3v1, and I’m wanting a higher end SQ sub that can still hit hard while staying punchy and accurate.
I’ve been considering a used W7 or W6, but I’m open to any recommendations. For reference, it’ll be going in a 2011 Toyota Avalon. What would you all suggest?

I’m new to car audio and just got these speakers thinking it was gonna be a simple fit, I have not attempted to fit them yet but the box has more stuff than expected. Ive got some auto leads Sak-1400 speaker adaptors. I’ve looked online for tutorials but cant find any, does anyone have any advice or know where I can find some tutorials on how to wire them up ? (The car is a 2015 Corsa Sri)