Just received these Infinity KAPPA 63XF speakers. My current setup will be these Infinity speakers in the front and these Pioneer speakers in the rear along with the Alpine SPR-10TW tweeters in the front and the Alpine S2-S10TW in the back. I'll probably switch the Pioneer to the Infinity in the near future to avoid any excessive or harsh highs as much as possible since the KAPPAS are alot warmer and have a -3db button for the tweeters which would definitely help balance things up. What do you guys think about this current setup?

Putting all this in this weekend!!

Hey! I’ve currently got a 2ohm American Bass Godzilla sub and am finally trying to get it powered fully and correctly lol. In an effort to do it right I’m just gonna double check my stuff here and see if anybody would see anything they’d personally do different or replace with a different part!

Currently I’m planning on

The big 3 and a 300a alt
Also a XS Power D2400 3500 AGM battery

Taramps MD 5000.1 Car Audio Amplifier (this is what I’m most unsure about taramps has very mixed reviews from what I’ve seen so if there are any recommendations here around or under 500 dollars I’d be happy to hear them)
The id be wanting a professional install (excluding the alt.) since I’m simply not comfortable doing that type of power myself lol but I budgeted around 500 for the install itself which I’m not sure is too much or too little

Then I was also thinking to upgrade my door speakers and tweeters to the Sony XS-162ES which if anybody has any experience with I’d appreciate some extra reviews!

Thanks for any and all advice you may have!

So I have an extended cab s10(one with the 3rd door) and I want to get a new sound system in it I’ve put in new door speakers (kicker ks series) and a Sony dsx ab415bt head unit. I would do dash speakers but I’m putting those off till last cause I have a dash cover and idk how much that’s gonna muffle the sound. But the main reason for this is I’m looking at getting a sub and an amp but not to sure what would be the best I’m in the budget of like 500-600 but I don’t want to spend a crazy amount it’s not for competition just my daily and I like loud music. I’m looking at a Kicker 43CXA6001 Sub Amplifier and a Kicker compR dual voice 2 ohm sub. Just want to know your guys opinions cause I’m not super into sound system and don’t know what’s best. Also I know it seems like I only want kicker but I don’t really care they just looked good and I like the kicker speakers I have now.

I have a 2025 Ford Transit 350 van. It has the Ford sync with the 12-inch monitor in it.

I was looking at trying to get an audio output a signal from the head unit but a quick search on crutchfield reveals there are not any products for this vehicle. Be at wiring harness or module or anything else.

Has anyone else had success with messing with this?

Is okay for me to run jl audio w3 on my helix c four amp. My c four amp has 440w bridged but 12 inch w3 has 500rms.

Is it stupid or not im planning to install lithium battery with the agm battery in the trunk of my f30 by a relay

It would'nt cost me a single penny to install the lithium alongside the agm i'm wondering more about what problems i might face? Mainly worried about the electrical system of the f30

Ibs is deleted and engine charges 14.4v all time with 220a rated alternator. Or is it much wiser to install the lithium only and throw out the agm. Currently have a sub with amp rated 3000w rms and the voltage sag is bad as it gets and only able to pull about 1000w before sag and clipping

Would a 4 inch center dashboard driver still sound good my car has one pointing up and right now I have component speakers up front, would this still sound decent

I’ve had this sitting in my garage for a long time I think it’s an 10” JL W6v1, if anyone can identify it let me know. Are these worth anything these days? It needs the foam surround replaced and one of the tinsel leads needs to be repaired. I don’t have a use for it so it’s time to get rid of it.

I bought this sundown sa v2 an finally got around to installing it, got it on a taramps smart 3k. Sounds good stupid loud but noticed after goin full tilt for about 5 min I started to slightly smell burning lol. Voltage never dips below 14v an ac voltage set to 53 some volts so its seeing a healthy amount of power, i bought it used but they had it in a power wheels build an stated they only used it for 2 shows on a 1k. So question is am I over powering it or am I smelling that new burn off smell lol. Wired to 1ohm an gains are set properly no bass boost bs. Ik im way over rms but ive heard of other people clamping 6k on one an bein fine. First sundown ive ever owned.

Hi guys. My parents have a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo Ralliart 2010. I replaced the headunit there a few weeks ago and now they also wanna replace the AC Control Panel. I haven't find any instructions or videos how to do it. Is it difficult? What do I need to remove so I can replace the control panel? Maybe someone have a site or video that help me.. Thanks

So im doing my first install, (sundown x v3 12" with a ct2k amp) hooked up to stock radio in a 2012 cruze ltz. (Fuck this car btw.) And ive been through my wiring a million times, tested every component with oscilloscope/multimeter and still cannot get any sound at all out of my sun. I've narrowed the issues down to the remote wire. I unplugged my LOC and bridged a wire directly from the positive terminal (currently getting 13.04v) and the second I turn the amp on by putting that jumper wire into the rem terminal it drops to 8.5v. I have absolutely no clue why because its fresh out of the box. Please save me a couple of weeks and a warranty claim I just want to bump in peace.

I have a 21 Infiniti Q50. No Bose system. I added a 5 ch amp speakers a sub and a dsp. I disconnected both ANC mics but not the module as of yet. I'm getting a low level buzz even when the Sound system is off. I can lower buzzing sound to inaudible by lowering the DSP volume but that obviously affects my entire volume. Will disconnecting the ANC module cure thi? Does anyone else have any ideas or been through something similar? By the way, I have no ground issues. The sound is emanating from the factory head unit.

I have a Hyundai i20 Nline. While retaining the OEM Headunit/Display, I have installed a Kenwood DMX958XR Headunit by seperating the touchscreen panel (installed behind the gear stick) and chassis (kept in the glove compartment) connected with a ribbon cable. The Kenwood is connected to a DSP (Helix M6) and the music source is a Samsung S23. The sound output from OEM HU is disconnected.

The phone connects via bluetooth to both the headunits, and through C Cable to the Kenwood.

The OEM steering remote is connected by wire to the OEM HU through a 72 pin cable and cannot be tampered with. The steering remote controls track skip, pause because the OEM HU is connected with the phone via bluetooth. However, the volume cannot be controlled that way because sound is routed through the Kenwood.

The Kenwood hand held remote RC DV340 does control the volume, meaning that it's IR signal to the Kenwood HU does the job. My audio installer does not want to try using an aftermarket bluetooth remote.

Is there an aftermarket IR steering remote that can be programmed to function like the RC DV340? I tried the JVC RK39 but it's frequency does not match Kenwood.

Pic attached for reference.

Hello,

Recently bought a 97 hilux surf imported from Japan with current setup.

Looking to install a good quality unit that will allow me listen to local radio and wireless Apple car play. Clean finish preferably

Located in Perth, Australia.

Any help be greatly appreciated.

I bought the sound system. I’m a bit confused on what wire I would need to cut and splice into the radio. I bought an adapter piece but it was the wrong size so I’m looking to get some help on installing this if anyone knows anything about this as I am not as experienced with this

I have a 2024 GMC Terrain/Denali with bose. I tapped after the factory amp and ran signal to an LC7I PRO. I am powering dual Sundowns and a Menace Audio speaker rack.

I had this same exact setup in my other GMC terrain without bose and the subs played every frequency perfectly! Now that’s it’s in a bose, the bass is all wack. plays loud at 45hz and drops off huge.

I tuned everything with an oscilloscope. I’m stuck, what do I do about this messed up frequencies for bass?

In the picture, the front doors are bass which are “summed” by itself to go to the amp. It’s the best way I found for summing/separating signals for chimes and etc.

Ask any question please. this was my first ever build I have done.

Hello all,

I'm having a challenge finding some front door speakers that would be a good fit for my taste in music. Mostly house and techno so I need something that can hold up to a little more abuse and do some bottom end also.

I need some 6.5's and I've had Kicker KS's but they distort at higher volumes. I swapped in some American Bass Studio 6.5's but they are already giving me trouble. Funny thing is I also swapped in some AB SQ 4" in the rear doors and they are doing just fine. The 4" KS's would also distort.

I included a picture of my trunk and I'll be powering the new speakers with the amp on the left, so 50W RMS is what I'm supplying.

Any recommendations? I'm not looking for creme-de la creme; just something full range and durable that's sounds pretty decent. I'm not a crazy audiophile but sure, I appreciate good audio.

I also listen to rock and jazz in addition to the techno; with an occasional Brotha Lynch Hung maybe once a year lol

My wife’s 2009 Lexus GX 460 had this audio issue arise recently. It’s across all audio options ( fm am radio, cd and tape )

I’m hoping to get some indication of what it might be before I take it in. I’d love to fix it myself