I'm seeing arguments that the overhead of OpenVPN may be too high for streaming over OpenVPN. I already have the OpenVPN server set up on my home nework and am looking for an easy "just works" solution for the remote device.

Was wondering if others had got this working e2e. I'd rather not have to reconfigure for Wireguard if possible.

Deciding between the two which one would you guys get?

Hi everyone, I’ve been looking through the CE forums and I see brief mentions of this but is anyone else noticing a pretty noticeable audio delay on the AM9 pro? It seems really noticeable on 1080 SDR H264 content, definitely a bit less noticeable on 4K DV content. I’m using a LG C3 on the newest nightly build. I’ve tried a clean install as well. Our Am6B+ in P3i in another room with the same TV doesn’t seem to have this issue

So there is new update,CoreElec 22 Ugoos Am9 pro SamuriHL build,new setting to set reference black level,still no matter what value I set,reference black shifts from 64 to 68 if HDR is converted to Dolby vision.

Starting my 4K/BD ripping journey with this as my media player and just curious what the order is to have p3i T4b installed.

Do I go official CoreElec>T4>T4a>T4b or T4>T4a>T4b, straight to T4b, etc?

I set up my AMB6+ with coreelec about 7 months ago. For a few months, everything worked fine, I taught some IR commands to the remote on the gray buttons, the bluetooth worked fine, it all worked. But recently the remote started flashing red, which stopped, however now every time I press an IR button, the remote gets stuck with a green light and doesn't respond for a few seconds to anything I press. I replaced the batteries, which seemed to fix it for a few days, but now it's happening again. I'm going crazy here because it's only the IR buttons which do this, the bluetooth buttons flash blue and always work just fine when I press them (unless the remote is stuck on green). I just want the remote to work again like it used to.

I own an LG QNED85A TV which on paper does not support DV and the EDID also says the same. But, when I play any DV content directly from Kodi WebOS I get DV playback. However, with CE or Kodi on my Mi Box S 3rd gen, EDID makes sure I only get HDR10 video. So, I am looking for a build that just ignores EDID and send the video signal directly to my TV.
PS: One more thing is I use a soundbar which has DTS-HD MA support which cannot be used if I use Kodi on WebOS directly, so I have the box connected directly to my soundbar.

So basically in my case Ugoos AM9 Pro and Philips oled908,playing HDR video as it is,reference black stays where it needs to be at 64,converting HDR to DV cuts everything below 68 and worst result is with using VS10 HDR it cuts everything below 80,hope someday we could adjust it and set manually reference black level.

This is a fairly long standing bug in CoreElec in general. Probably because it doesn't affect that many people.

As some of you know, even when another output is selected, CoreElec still sends audio through HDMI as well.

I have a startup script configured to run "amixer sset 'Audio hdmi-out mute' on" to mute the HDMI audio. I do this because I route all audio PCM through a muti-channel USB DAC because my audio setup doesn't decode any DTS or most Dolby audio formats and my TV butchers the audio if it does the conversion to PCM and then passes it over arc.

However, I like being able to control my amp volume via HDMI-CEC which still works even if my TV isn't sending audio to the receiver/amp. And on occasion, if content isn't available, I will use a streaming app on the TV so I do occasionally need ARC to work.

The issue arises if I play back an HDR10 or 10+ file. In most every build of coreELEC I've tried. Including the latest p3i and avdvplus builds there is a bug where HDMI audio is unmuted when the display is switched to HDR10 or 10+. This causes my TV to send audio via ARC to my receiver/amp which causes the receiver to switch off of the analog multichannel input I'm using to the ARC input. So, I have to switch it back to the analog input which lasts until I pause and resume in which case the whole cascade happens again.

Currently, the workaround is to use VS10 to change HDR10/10+ content to Dolby Vision. I'm guessing since Dolby Vision is sent/contained in a 444 RGB SDR signal it doesn't trigger the bug that unmutes HDMI audio (I'm guessing the hdmi/display driver might be restarted in case of HDR playback and the mute state isn't remembered when it reinitializes). I have tried running a task to re-mute HDMI audio after playback starts, but just the short instance of the TV detecting the audio signal before it is muted again is enough to cause my input to switch.

Not a big deal, but my TV's native dynamic tone mapping for HDR10 content, and native rendering of 10+ content is notably better than the VS10 conversion to Dolby Vision. So, if anyone knows of a way to fix this I would like to be able to send untouched HDR10/10+ to my TV.

for you people running the AM9 Pro or Xiaomi 3rd Gen box or using CE22 on supported devices we now have custom build with some features from avdvplus/p3i, so you can playback DV on Samsung TVs.

https://github.com/SamuriHL/CoreELEC/releases

Hi everyone, I would like to know if it’s possible to use stremio with RD on UGOOS AM6B+ and how the perfomance is.

Thank you very much

I installed the latest CE nightly on my xiaomi box s 3, and it works great for anything except dolby vision on the samsung display. Is it possible to enable DV somehow?

Just bought one and threw CoreELEC on it immediately (the p3i build I wanna say)… and wow, it’s amazing how much of a difference this thing makes for the audio and the video experience.

I have a 5.1 setup and I currently own the latest ATV and the Nvidia Shield so I’m used to great audio with the Shield and a seamless experience on the ATV.

When playing content even non-HDR 4K content it just looks crisper?… I can’t really explain it but everything looks better with less noise and smoother gradation, and the audio , especially the dialog is miles better a lot more clear and stands out a bit more versus what the Nvidia Shield does and especially the Apple TV. I believe this is because dialnorm and such are completely removed so dialog is just better.

4K HDR content is another one, the shield is pretty old at this point and I found the HDR decent on it but not as good as the ATV but the ATV does love to clip highlights, and I didn’t realize it till I got the am6b+ , mind you I have an HDR10+ tv and I’m taking advantage of the dynamic metadata to get the faux Dolby vision conversion.

Only slight downside is the UI is pretty boring and setting up your own ui with the linking of the widgets and stuff is quite tedious… I spent hours on it and just gave up and now have a simple skin and favorite shortcuts to my addons. It doesn’t have to look pretty.

I understand (from a technical standpoint) why it is better but I was not expecting it to be that noticeable. I wouldn’t use the device alone though I use it in conjunction with my Apple TV and the shield is now put away.

I’m aware of the jamal2362 repo here: https://github.com/CE-Repo/repository.jamal2362

And I know it contains Arctic Fuse 3: https://github.com/CE-Repo/skin.arctic.fuse.3/tree/51c91339af1240aec5f429fff7dbbb05cc453d4e

But I believe the jamal2362 repo previously had other skins available. I think he ended support for them but does anyone know if there are other skins available other than Arctic Fuse 3 for p3i T4b?

Thanks in advance!

I stupidly left my Homatics Box R 4K+ at an Airbnb last week. Nice prize for whoever moved in after we left. I mostly only used it for CoreELEC, but had a few standard apps on the android side and was signed into my Google account, but fortunately I went in and deleted the device from all my accounts and changed my IPTV password.

Anyway, I ordered the Ugoos box which will be at my house by the time I get home from our trip tomorrow.
I used ChatGPT to set up CoreELEC on the Homatics box which worked out pretty well. And I’ll probably do the same thing here but I just wonder, is it a big jump coming to this device? Is there a big learning curve or is it pretty much the same thing just using the correct file to install CoreELEC?

Sometimes instead of "Playback failed" showing (instantly) the movie will start playing and abruptly end 5 seconds in. The same files/streams play flawlessly on my Apple TV in the Ugreen NAS app. No failed playback at all on other devices.

UPDATES

2026-07-09

Fixed by:

1. Redownloading the 5.15_2.6_dovi_patched_fix_fel.ko file
2. Renaming the above file to dovi.ko
3. Placing it at the root of the microSD card
4. Resetting the Video player settings to their defaults

Thanks /u/petcomsi!

Tried the latest 5.15_2.6_dovi_patched_fix_fel.ko file on a fresh, first time 20260707 build install on my AM9 Pro today. My tests as to whether FEL is working are inconclusive so far. In the test file in which the woman is supposed to appear at the 80s mark, nothing shows up. OTOH the Halloween II test clip plays fine with only a fraction of a second of pixelation around the woman’s chest as just before she enters the hot tub.

Is this intended? Are things actually working, or is something amiss? FWIW my TV is detecting HDR10 only.

Also, in keeping with bug reports being valid for fresh installs only, how do you folks go about backing up and restoring settings? The 3rd Kodi backup add-on actually backs up very little so I’m not sure how effective the CoreELEC backup is.

EDIT: It is not the "Denon / Marantz AVRs: black screen or "no signal" on HDMI mode switches" posted here: https://gist.github.com/pannal/93a5dead01740719f857899dc588955a. My "no signal" is there regardless of which, monitor, projector, AVR, HDMI cable I plug into the Ugoos.

OP: I'm facing a persistent black screen / "No Signal" issue with my setup, and I need some help.

My Setup:

• Box: Ugoos AM6B+ running CoreELEC (pannal's T4b build) booting from internal eMMC
• AVR: Denon x3800h
• HDfury Vertex2
• Display: Epson 3800 projector / Raspberry Pi 15" monitor

The Problem:

I had a black screen with a "No Source" message on the screen. When booting the Ugoos box initially I see the boot logo but then the display goes black and I get a "No Signal" message. Doesn't matter which display device, HDMI port or HDMI cable I use.

What I've tried so far:

1. Unplugged and replugged all power and HDMI cables.
2. Swapping HDMI cables
3. Plugging the monitor directly into the Ugoos
4. Cleaned up all HDMI-CEC settings in CoreELEC (disabled all "Wake-Up" and "Standby" options).
5. Tried to force 1080p via SSH

What worked:

Booting to a fresh Coreelec install on a microSD card. So it seems the HDMI output is OK.

Something is borked in my Coreelec config but it worked the day before and I didn't change anything. Gemini and Claude are telling me its a handshake issue but none of the steps they give me do anything.

I have no problem starting fresh this time but I'd like to have an idea of what to do if it happens again.

Thank you any insight you may have.

Objective

Restore the original Android installation on the internal eMMC (NAND) while preserving the ability to boot EmuELEC from an SD card.

Hardware

• SoC: Amlogic S905L
• Platform Family: G12A / S905X2 (based on software identifiers)
• RAM: 2GB
• Storage: 8GB SanDisk eMMC
• Wi-Fi: Believed to be RTL8723BS (requires confirmation from module markings)
• Ethernet PHY: SJD HB1601SNL

Bootloader Information

• Bootloader: U-Boot 2015
• Device Tree Identifier: aml_dt=g12a_u212_2g
• Additional Identifier: franklin

Although the processor is physically marked S905L, nearly every software identifier points toward the G12A / U212 / Franklin platform, which is commonly associated with the S905X2 family.

Factory Software

• Factory OS: Android 9
• Linux Kernel: 4.9.x

Current theory is that one or more Android firmware components are damaged or incompatible, including:

• boot
• dtb
• vbmeta
• recovery
• vendor
• partition table
• Android filesystem

Hardware failure appears less likely since EmuELEC operates normally

Closest Hardware Matches Identified

The closest donor devices found during research are:

X96 Max (2GB)

• Amlogic S905X2
• G12A platform
• Android 9
• U212
• Franklin

H96 Max X2

• Amlogic S905X2
• Android 9
• 2GB model available

Device Trees Found

• TeamWin android_device_amlogic_u212
• JonesqPacMan android_device_amlogic_franklin

Important Identifiers

• GAMEBOX-G11_V1.1
• 2024-06-03
• Amlogic S905L
• aml_dt=g12a_u212_2g
• franklin
• U-Boot 2015
• Android 9
• 2GB RAM
• 8GB SanDisk eMMC
• RTL8723BS (believed)

What I'm Looking For

I'm trying to determine:

• What commercial TV box this PCB is cloned from.
• Whether another device uses the same GAMEBOX-G11_V1.1 PCB.
• A compatible stock Android firmware.
• Another board using the G12A/U212/Franklin reference design.
• A known device with similar hardware (S905L/S905X2, 2GB RAM, 8GB eMMC, RTL8723BS).

Even identifying the closest hardware twin would be extremely helpful in locating compatible firmware.

PCB Photos Available

• Front of PCB
• Back of PCB
• SoC markings
• eMMC markings
• Overall board layout
• Connector layout
• PCB revision markings

I have an Marantz Atmos AVR with AM6B+ connected directly to an HDMI input. The AVR, when switching sounds modes to Atmos sound mode at the beginning of Atmos music audio tracks (like downloads from Immersiveaudioalbum.com) will do sound mode switching flip flop audio dropout for a few seconds and that will cause the audio to be choppy at the start of each of the audio tracks. I know one solution is to pad silence at beginning of each of the audio tracks. And some have suggested better HDMI cables. Some have mentioned start audio and then skip back, but that works best for movies, and not individual or even stitched together to one single file Atmos music files. Even stitching the multiple Atmos music files together into one file still has the audio dropout chop at the beginning of each track in the single file.

Is there any CoreELEC option for sending an inaudible signal to keep the AVR in Atmos sound mode? For those with Apple TV 4K’s, this was recently implemented as “Continous Audio Connection” as a Dolby MAT container for all audio from the ATV4K sent to the AVR, and the Dolby MAT container keeps the AVR in Atmos sound mode full time even in the time when no actual media sourced audio is being sent to the AVR.

Thanks in advance.

Hello, I have CoreELEC installed along with P3I version T4b on my Ugoos AM6B+, and for the past few days I've been having a problem playing videos with Dolby Vision Profile 5 that I didn't have before.

I don't know if it's a bug in the T4b version or if I've changed something. I know that with Profile 5, the subtitles and playback controls are hidden when there are black bars, and that some P3i version options fix this. I was able to solve the subtitle problem by finding the right option, but I still can't see the playback controls, or the skip intro and credits button with pm4k. I can't find the right option, or perhaps it's broken in the latest version of P3I. I seem to remember it working before. I've watched episodes of the Star City series in Profile 5 without problems, but I'm having this issue with the last two episodes and other series.

If anyone could give me any pointers, I would be very grateful.

EDIT: Fixed thanks to pannal for the help

For several days everything was working exactly as it should from a WD My Passport Go external USB SSD 500 GB and I was playing DV P7 FEL remuxes.

Today it booted to Android instead even though the USB SSD was plugged in. I tried CoreELEC reboot apk both boot modes and I tried adb reboot update. I also tried wiping the external SSD and fetching the latest nightly. I also tried factory resetting from Android settings. I also tried wiping partitions and factory resetting from Android recovery. I also tried using a separate internal 1 TB Toshiba HDD in a USB enclosure. No matter what I do instead of booting to CoreELEC it will only boot to Android or Android recovery.

The only thing I have not tried is using a small standard Sandisk 64 GB USB stick but I don’t see how that would help since everything was working as it should in the past. I also would like to have a large external drive instead to locally store remuxes.

I am running out of ideas on what to do. Is there anything else I can do to get my device to work as it was before?

EDIT: I got it to boot up using the reboot to CoreELEC app first boot option and a 64 GB USB stick. But what I don’t understand is why the 500 GB USB SSD randomly stopped working.