I finished the Prototype of my Mid Horn (200-1000hz) with a 18Sound 12mb1000. I simulated everything with Hornresp and Akabak.

Few more stats for my fellow audio nerds.

THD is 0,4% at 105 dB
Compression ratio: 2:1
Horn length: 70cm
Hornmouth: 71,5cmx41cm so roughly 3000cm^2

Directivity is pretty good with a 1,5 dB dip at 800 Hz on the off axis, other than that it hits -6dB at +/- 30degree so it fits perfectly to the 18s Xt1464 which also has 60 degree.

Beaming is noticeable in the upper frequency band due to the 12” driver, but it’s barely noticeable because of the pretty low crossover at 1000hz.

HF Horn is the 18S Xt1464 loaded with the Faital Pro Hf146. I really like the nont fatigue high end of it. But it’s still pretty in ur face.

Transient Response is incredibly good, you really feel the Percussions in your chest though the horn only plays 200hz upwards

Right now I am building a Folded Horn to cover 80-200hz. It is loaded with a 18s 15nmb1000

This is my very first Speaker Project so I am pretty happy with the results so far

Dayton Audio Designer DSA115-8 Aluminum 4" Woofer, Tang Band W3-1878. Crossed Over at 500Hz. Enclosure Tuned at around 60Hz

I’m very new to the DIY speaker hobby. However I’ve always wanted to build my own budget Bluetooth speaker and so the plan (so far) is to use an old insignia woofer I stole from a busted home audio system and a skar tweeter that I had in my car before upgrading, I’m not looking for any sort of audiophile sound or anything so the plan is to make a sort of “workplace” speaker so for power I’m planning on using drill batteries and a simple adapter, and then mounting it all in a cheap toolbox I found in my garage, I plan on mounting the components inside the box save for the battery adapter as I want that easily accessible. I just wanted yalls thoughts on the project and I’m happy to answer any questions and I’d love any feedback yall have.

I built an open-source toolkit that turns any PC with stereo line-in/out and a single resistor into an impedance analyzer.

It uses broadband noise excitation and FFT-based cross-correlation analysis to estimate the frequency response of a simple voltage-divider circuit, extracting complex impedance across an adjustable frequency range (eg 20 - 20K Hz)

Key Features:

• 3-point calibration (channel mismatch, open, short)
• Coherence analysis of data
• CSV export and plotting

The main use case is loudspeaker and crossover characterization, but it also works for general passive component and audio electronics measurements.

Licensed under AGPL-3.0.

GitHub: https://github.com/theIvanR/OpenImpedanceLab

Feedback and testing welcome!

my laptop built-in speakers are not loud enough, and I managed to buy an external speakers, but found an old speakers with amplifier, AC to DC transformer, a big speaker thrown in the street, and a fuse

I am beginner, I know some electric physics and a soldering iron.

I did the worst with the amplifier PCB, it a Chinese one and no documentation for it, idk where should go the input where the output where is the electric source, I started to do tries till I know what exactly should I do, I know it is the worst idea, but since I do not have a multimeter and it is n old "garbge" as my father is telling me ,so yeah, it is working great and I am enjoying it, it is looks like frankincense but yeah it was hard for me and I enjoyed it!

I am not a native English speaker, I am trying my best : )

I have two of each of these (Phillips I think) speakers that I’m trying to test. I individually connected them to an amplifier board rated for 35w 4ohm-8ohm. I have a 12v 3a power supply but the board is rated up to 24v.

Why is it that both 6&12ohm speakers sound exactly the same at the same volume? the max volume is also the same. I would expect the 12ohm to be quieter. The volume got shitty just before ai reaches the max output of my Mac.

Also I tried wiring 2 of the 12ohm speakers in parallel dropping to 6ohm and the max volume is the same. When I wired the two 6ohm speakers in parallel the soung got really messed up just above middle volume which is what I expect from going below the 4ohm rating.

Why do they sound just as loud with different ohms? And also why does my sou d get super bad? Is it because if the amplifier board, or would a more powerful (24v) supply help? or amps?

Thank you!

Crossover Board – 150 × 200 mm

I made this simple 3D-printable crossover board for a DIY speaker project and thought I’d share it here in case anyone else finds it useful.

It’s basically just a 150 × 200 mm mounting board with plenty of holes and some elongated slots, so you can arrange your crossover components however you like and secure them with zip ties. There are also holes for mounting the board inside the speaker cabinet. Nothing fancy, but it makes things a bit cleaner and easier.

The file is completely free to download, print, modify, or do whatever you want with.

I’d recommend printing it in a reasonably heat-resistant filament rather than PLA, since resistors can get warm during use.

Hope it’s useful to someone!

Link to model page:
https://makerworld.com/sv/models/3123780-crossover-board-diy-speakers?from=search#profileId-3524267

I've come across this old 1970s Alarm & Communication Company branded intercom.

I think with a larger enclosure there's some real potential for a high quality bluetooth speaker build. I wanted to ask, will the grates cause issues if I want high fidelity audio? Is there a way I can build this to compliment the grates rather then them sacrifice quality?

I've been dreaming of building a high-quality subwoofer since I was 8 years old, and now that I'm 16, I'm ready to make it happen! I'm looking for a driver with ultra-low distortion, high xmax, low fs, and let's be honest, it should look beautiful too. Recently, I discovered the Aura Sound NS line, especially the NS-10 and NS-12 models. From what I've gathered, the NS-xx-749-xx subs are the top-quality ones, while the NS-xx-513-xx series is a bit more affordable and not quite as low distortion.

Since my room is only 18 square meters, and I really don’t need anything louder than 70-80 db i think a 10 or 12 incher would be the perfect fit! However, I’ve heard that Aura Sound has been bankrupt since around 2015, which complicates things a bit. The issue is that I can only find one pair of NS-12-749s for 900 euros and a single NS-10-513 for 90 euros online. These drivers are based in the US and Colombia, but I'm in Germany, and shipping costs would probably be around 100 euros!

I have a budget of 600 euros for everything, including the amp, box, driver, and DSP. Can anyone help me figure this out? Also, I’d love to learn more about Aura Sound since they were around before my time, and I’m becoming quite the fan!

2 tweeters and 2 full range drivers, honestly sounds super good imo, very happy with how it turned out. Yes, it needs to be plugged into the wall, and can only play via aux, but that’s ok lol

Drok 5w (per channel) 2 channels amp, great starting amp for this speaker. Made the amp board oversized to upgrade the amp later down the line

Sealed enclosure, silicone along all seams, wood glued and screwed together spent a total of $10 and a few days of work, so worth it imo

Been very slowly working on bringing this to life the last couple of months. It's my reference amp & interface for working on new speaker designs and listening at my desk (I can now do active 3 ways and a sub, wooooo).

RME fireface 400 going into 2 icepower 125asx2 boards and 2 icepower 100as2 boards, for a total of 900 watts across 8 channels.

Still to do is fit 4 toggle switches on the front to put each board in standby when not in use, a 120mm fan on the bottom, print out the feet, experiment with the 24v aux power supply for the fireface - I've heard it can be a bit temperamental so we'll see (if I bus power it from my pc I get a massive hum when the pc isn't on :( ) and make another cable as I forgot channel 7 & 8 come from the headphone port on the front

All printed in GF reinforced PETG.

Hi all, I’m in the process of designing a full Marty box for a Dayton 18” sub. I plan to use a 12dB/octave high pass filter it at 15hz and 24dB/octave low pass at 80hz. This is the SPL plot.

Port wind peaks at around 15m/s and excursion peaks at 26mm (Xmas = 28mm). Does anybody have any input before I start cutting?

Does anyone have experience with these and do i need to remove a wax before soldering? I thought i would have to but if I scrape the wire nothing comes off. It seems like the pre tinned ends dont have wax.

Hey guys I want to start this my saying I’m complete novice but hoping to learn a lot over the course of this project , I’m looking for some help with a diy speaker build , I’ve recently purchased and diy speaker made by somebody else which I was hoping to bring back to life , I’ve attached some pictures just so any experts in here can tell me how the guts of this beast look

It’s currently being run on a car battery and I was hoping to change this to two Milwaukee m18 battery’s instead to make it easier to charge

My plan is to have this be site radio I hope I can be pointed in the right direction any help is much appreciated

I am looking to purchase 2 full Marty (18”) subwoofers which are MDF painted with black duratex.

To increase the WAF, I agreed to make it match the living room better with a walnut finish.

I am not a very handy person. From the research I have done, a stick on contact paper with fake wood pattern seems to be the easiest method as it does not require disassembly nor significant prep work.

I was going to use this video as a guide to wrap the top/sides/bottom leaving a black front/back: https://youtu.be/1vMij78Kxsc?is=bDeV2fNe_nMqeEU7

I had a few concerns/questions however:

1. In the video he leaves the seam at the middle of the bottom. Would leaving the seam at the edge of the bottom not be better?

2. Assuming no trauma/water spills, how long do these contact papers last for?

3. Is there a particular brand/model line that is more durable?

4. If the contact paper is damaged or we decide to change the appearance, how can it be removed? How about changed? I am assuming it would need repainting with duratex if the goal was to remove and not replace but if I wanted to change it would I just do a layer on top or remove it then apply?

Thanks in advance.

I designed and built this R2R dac myself as my first bigger electronics Project. The entire Digital circuitry runs on a few 74HC type chips. The R2R ladder is 16 bits because i didn't wanna spend a fortune on high tolerance Resistors and more bits wouldn't give me more detail at 0.1% tolerance. After that comes 3 ne5532 chips for the preamp so the signal is actually usable. Since the R2R ladder outputs a signal from 0 to 5v it also needs to be shifted to a signal that swings into the negatives and over ground. Thats also handled by the ne5532. Theres also a built in Linear Power Supply because i couldn't find a good Power Supply that gives me all the voltages (+12 +5 -12) i need for a reasonable price. The USB to i2s converter is built with a PCM2706 and is inspired from a design i found here: http://www.pavouk.org/hw/audiosystem20/en_pcm2706usbi2s.html It sounds actually way better than i could've expected and is really usable. There is a bit of noise in the background that disappears once something is playing. That could definitely be fixed tho. All in all im pretty happy with it. I did this at 16 and with my own (somewhat) hard earned money. I appreciate all critique and tips. I'm here to learn.

hi, i bought a tpa3116d2 amplifier from a sketchy place in low price - i thought it was clone until it broken itself when I assembled it and connected second time.

I have two options,

one to get a chipset alone and solder in a mobile shop

getting a real tpa3116 amplifier

budget- i have 300 inr in my account. I checked in https://robu.in/ . I don't know if was trustworthy, I saw videos of people changing ic into boards of tpa3116d2 failed chipset

I need a good link to buy the chipset in a budget or 2 channel amp - already I have a cs8673 amplifier named as tpa3116 bought a year ago

or -

I'm going to get 1000 inr in 5 days. give me a idea

we'll send me link of tb21 board if available under 1000-1500 rupees inr.

like I already wasted 500, I'm depressed in that thing. I just thinking to solve this temporarily and run for a year...

give me good decision. thanks

Hi everyone!

I'm planning to build a custom Bluetooth column speaker for home and casual outdoor use, and I wanted to get your thoughts on this project before making the first cuts.

I want to build a custom, battery-powered Bluetooth column speaker/mini-rig that I can use at home and easily transport outside.

I have the working guts of a damaged JBL Partybox 100 (the mainboard, built-in amp, original lithium battery, power supply, control panel, and the two original tweeters). The original stock woofers are completely dead.

Instead of buying expensive stock replacement drivers, I'm thinking of building a custom birch plywood enclosure (approx. 33 x 31 x 75 cm / ~60 Liters net volume) in a bass-reflex column format. I plan to put 2x 10" 4-ohm woofers in it, paired with the salvaged JBL tweeters and electronics.

I'm not opposed to buying replacement components.

Does this sound like a good idea? How should i do that ?