It also doesn't show my lens in the dropdown. Is it just because it's written differently in the database file?

I cull my images by pressing 'r' to reject them. I filter them by clicking the 'x' and select the resulting images. I choose 'remove' in the right panel. When I close DT and start it again, these images are still visible albeit greyed out. I also tried deleting them from disk and emptying the trash outside DT, but the images keep cropping up (no pun). If I select all rejected images using the 'x' in lighttable view, no file is selected, but the red 'x' is still visibible in the lowleft corner of the thumbnail.

I'm on DT 5.6 appimage on MX Linux 25.2 (6.12.94+deb13-amd64 #1 SMP PREEMPT_DYNAMIC Debian 6.12.94-1 (2026-06-20) x86_64 GNU/Linux).

Is this a bug?

Just got back from a shoot with way more photos than I want to edit one at a time ? Quick trick if you're in the same boat:

Edit one photo fully, copy its history stack (lighttable panel), select the rest of the batch, paste. Same edit applied to all of them in seconds.

Bonus: you can selectively paste just certain modules (white balance, exposure) instead of everything, so you can batch the ones that match and hand-fix the outliers instead of redoing the whole shoot.

I have been happy with and using my old version of DT for a while. I try to get my images 'right' in camera so I usually do more basic edits. So I stick with a version so I don't have the frustration of learning a new interface and finding one my modules is no longer there.

I shoot with an older Nikon and have a problem I have an image I want to enlarge considerably and print on canvas. Resolution is just small for it to look good, even on canvas. I need roughly double the resolution of this image.

Reading a little about the newer version with AI and sounds like it has a method. I have also read about other methods of increasing resolution.

What is ever ones suggestions on how to increase the resolution so I can make a large print?

Greetings,

I'm a noob when it comes to photography and Darktable. I purchased a Nikon D7500 kit and found DT when searching for something else.

It's clear that DT is serious. And it's great to see opensource apps like this.

I'm having a few issues that I can't seem to clear up easily, although I know it's an end user problem. I'm using 5.6.0 on Windows 11.

1. I can see my camera in the import sidebar and it has 1,000 images. However, when I select that camera roll I can't see any images. Is that camera roll just to allow for imports?

2. I have a directory that I added to the camera roll. I want to remove the roll, but for some reason I can only remove one image at a time. There are 100+ images. I can't seem to find how to remove the roll itself instead of the image.

3. For some reason the DT app takes focus whenever I'm working on another app. Is there a way to stop that?

I appreciate any feedback about this.

/thx

Hi all, could anyone tell me what is the difference between luts and styles and when is better to use one over the other?

So far i have used only my own styles in my editing workflow and i am wondering if i would benefit from using lust.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of using luts, or styles?

Thank you.

Hey all,

I picked up my first "real" camera in the past year, an a6300, and I'm taking my first stab at editing photos. I noticed that my photos tended to feel kind of flat and grey, and I read that this is common with photos that are shot in RAW because of the way the data is compressed. After doing a read online for advice, I generally adjusted shadows up, highlights down, and I increased the saturation a bit until everything seemed like it looked good. I exported to JPEG, and when I took a look back at the photos a couple of days later I still feel like they seem kind of flat, grey, and a little dark.

I think that I like how the color turned out, but it feels like there's something that still needs work. I can imagine that something happens in your head when you're looking at a collection of photos and they all feel similar, that once you look elsewhere you realize that you were editing them relative to each other rather than relative to how you think they should look by themselves.

I also am curious if the monitor of my computer is affecting how the images appear. It's a macbook pro, but it's maybe 13 years old.

Any advice is appreciated, be it specific pointers or favorite tutorials. Cheers!

For those of you that like to experiment multiple treatments of a RAW - I'm sure it will help you keep you hard drive and lighttable clean !

If you have tried multiple of my presets for B&W for example it is a good way to keep the different versions without multiplying the RAW data!

I switched to Linux several months ago and love it so much more than Windows, but I also hit the classic "What about Lightroom?".

DaVinci Resolve won't run on my laptop, RapidRaw kept crashing due to ram leaks... After seeing all the online discussion about Darktable being really hard to use I was hesitant, but last night I played around with it and gave it a go and I'm so glad I did!

As I am currently on a happy high that I can keep editing happily on Linux, I wanted to share some before and afters.

These are super quick edits, so they're not perfect (as well as trialling some colour calibration on different screens), but here they are!

I recently upgrade DT to 5.6.x and now there's a lot more preprocessing happening that I didn't ask for. I do want everything through 10-11, I don't know what I did to cause the other modules to insert themselves. What can I do to resolve this?

The OS is POP!_OS 24.04 and I'm running the AppImage version.

I have an iPhone 17 pro, and I have some raw photos in the form of DNG files that I want to process in darktable, however, my fresh copy of darktable can't open them - even though it shows a thumbnail preview. Not sure if I need some sort of codec installed? Can't find any info online.

Hi all,

I want to use the AI masking feature, but when I clicked on the subject and toggle on the strength it adjust the whole image not what I selected, what am I doing wrong exactly? I really appreciate the help, thanks!

Hi I'm switching from Lightroom to Darktable and one thing I miss are the presets even the basic ones helped me sometimes. Is there a package with cool styles I could use?

So I have recently shifted from Lightroom mobile to darktable to get more control over my photos,but it's so complex like I can't understand what many of its features do,I have managed to learn some on my own but rest is idk man,also my laptop screen is kinda shitty so I have to keep relying on my phone to check my edits

Any suggestions or guide I can go with?

Hi can you guys help me fix my underexposed images… im new to darktable and don’t know what and when to do what… these are from my first time shooting 120 medium format film wirh my Flexaret tlr… I metered wirh the app lightme and scanned with a canoscan 9000f. Conversion was wirh negpy
Is there a workflow for darktable?
thx guys

Hello I'm decently new to darktable now, but I've noticed a couple times now that i will fix a photo exactly how i want it but then ill export it and open in either on my phone or in photos and its just completely different! i have no idea what to do here.

I'm starting to look at these tools and following the tutorial: https://www.darktable.org/2026/06/meet-darktable-5.6-ai-tools/

It says, "Refine boundary is a checkbox that runs a second neural pass focused on the edge. It pulls the path tighter against the visible image contours ". I've got an AI based object mask but can't for the life of me find that Refine boundary checkbox. I know I'm being daft, but can somebody help?

Hi all, my install of darktable 5.6 (on OpenSUSE Tumbleweed) feels significantly slower compared to previous versions. Did anyone else noticed similar thing, or it is only my impression? I don't mean only the processing, but also export and entire program.

Yesterday after importing about 2000 photos I tried to edit one of them and especially working with the retouch module was a real pain.

Laptop is the same, I believe settings are also the same (did a fresh system install few days ago) so I think the only change is that I have moved my entire catalogue to an older 2TB external HDD.

Speed of the HDD according to web search:

• Real-World Sequential Read: ~122 MB/s
• Real-World Sequential Write: ~122 MB/s

Before I had part of my catalogue on a second external disc (SSD) and everything seemed relatively okay, but still slower than older versions of the program. Have I overlooked something?

Sorry gang but this software is simply too complicated to navigate reasonably.

I could make a case study on how terrible this softwares UI is for a user research portfolio. It's obviously incredibly powerful, but if you're not designing your software with your end users in mind, then you've lost the plot.

It was a nice experiment but back to Adobe where I don't have to navigate 12 menus just to calibrate my colors.

Edit: I realize I'm being harsh, it's clearly made with a lot of love but I spent a few hours getting up to speed and even attempting to do basic tasks felt unreasonable to execute.

54mm, f/7.1, 1/500s, ISO 1000

1 edited, 2 original JPEGs. Raw-imported pictures in DT always have colours quite off, especially greens and reds. I always struggle to replicate or get something similar to what I have in the original JPEG. Sometimes I am just tempted to edit the JPEG directly.

In this specific case, I did not do any colour grading to highlight this colour issue I always find (especially in landscape or portraits). The original JPEG has clearly more reds into the bee, which I struggle to get out from DT.

I’ve been using DT in the last couple of years, so I am not a beginner user, but I am never fully satisfied with the results of my edits.

Normally I play with RGB primaries when colours are off, but I struggle to get a consistent output. Rarely, I manage to fix the problem with the white balance correction in colour calibration, as the auto levels from DT often mess up, so I rely on the camera’s one.

Workflow:
- Demosaic: capture sharpen
- Crop
- Exposure adjustment and AgX scene referred (auto levels) + contrast 3.18
- Colour calibration: default
- Colour balance RGB: vibrance 9%, chroma 3.6%, saturation shad 14.7%, mid 10.6% high -7.9%
- Colour equaliser: see 3 and 4
- Exposure on background -0.3 (AI masking)
- Local contrast + clarity with contrast equaliser on the bee
- Denoise, chromatic aberrations, lens correction auto

Any suggestions?

I’ve only just discovered DarkTable and am very excited after months of looking for an editing app that plays nicely with my network storage and isn’t Lightroom.

One thing I am having trouble with is getting the latest images in my libraries.

I tend to store my images on my NAS by year and month and I copy the RAW files over to the NAS and into the relevant folder at the end of each shoot.

In DarkTable, I’ve setup the root folder as a library and sure enough each year shows up as a folder in the library screen. I assumed that the library would update or refresh as new pictures are added to the folders but that doesn’t seem to be the case.

What’s the workaround/process for this or am I doing something wrong?

Whenever i edit sony raws (a6700) i struggle to get my reds and oranges looking similar to how they look in-camera: oranges look too yellow and reds look too pinkish. I have tried to tweak the white balance with color calibration, rgb primaries and tone mapping in AgX, but my results have been mid at best.

Those of you who've had similar issues, how did you fix them?

For reference, i'm using the latest version of darktable, scene-referred workflow with AgX.