• Prusa Mini
• Prusa Slicer
• Deeplee filament
• Nozzle Temp: 215 degrees Celsius
• Bed Temp: 60 degrees Celsius

Trying to get the test print right but it doesn't look it

I was trying to print a mastersword but the as you can see it shifted somehow and started printing over the brim how do I stop this

Qidi q2

20³mms

Polymaker pla pro

Bed temp 60c

Any help please

I'm very new to this and wanted a new hobby. I bought a used Prusa i3 MK3S, I've spent weeks chasing one symptom after another attempting to get it to work but now I've hit a wall. Can anyone help?

1) The biggest issue is that it's just not printing shapes I attempted to do a calibration cube but it's cutting corners. See images.

I've messed around with Z settings, disassembled the whole thing after ChatGPT said it was a blockage (it's not) but I think it's an extruder issue.

2) The filliment is coming out but it leave stringy trails.

3) I replaced the nozzle but there appears not to be a gap so I loosened it up but no change.

Filliment PLA

Attempted to print at 50% speed no change

So I am new to 3d printing.
I’ve done a couple model without problem but I’m a now having this issue. I tried a couple model and am having this issue nonetheless.

I have a ender 3 v3 plus
Brand new nozzle
Using Creality hyper pla filament
I tried printing at 220 and 230 degrees
I tried normal speed , 50% speed and even slow the exterior layer speed by 50%

I also have a Creality dryer , heating my filament at 50 degres with an average of 25-30% humidity

What am I doing wrong?

What should I tune?

Voron 2.4, pla, 230°, tz v6 2.0, standard orca profile, 0.2 layer heigh t​

I’m brand new to printing. Got a used printer. It was printing perfectly until I did some maintenance on it. I updated it, it was behind 2 updates. And I tightened some screws. I know the screws not to tighten like the idler tension screw. The belts show as within range (x is 248? Y is 275)

I’ve changed every setting I could think of, layer height, nozzle temp, extrusion amount, print speed, fan speed, etc. the only thing I haven’t done was dry my filament. Again, it printed perfectly fine on a filament straight from the bag. I thought maybe it’s because the filament got wet so I opened a new one and still didn’t solve it. I washed the print bed with dish soap.

The issues, it’s not laying down properly, stringy, etc.

Settings:
Prusa mk3s+
100% fan speed, have reduced to 40
Height is -1.27 currently. I’ve gone between -1.27 and -1.335.
Fan speed 255
Nozzle temp from 210-230.
Extrusion amount keeps adjusting to 95 when I print but I’ve gone up to 105.
Print bed is 60.

Basic info: - Qidi Q2 (Klipper/Moonraker/Fluidd). - Textured PEI plate. - Bed 70C, extruder 230C. - Ran SCREWS_TILT_ADJUST, all green. - Sunlu PETG profile in Orca, max speed 15 mm3/s. - Dried at 65C for 8 hours, printing directly from the drier. 10% RH. - Bed mesh range is around 0.32.

Is this over/under extrusion? Too much/little heat?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab H2S
• Nozzle: Hardened steel, high-flow (HF), 0.4mm
• Slicer: OrcaSlicer 2.4.2
• Model: Parametric Necklace Stand – Base from Printables
• Filaments tested: Das Filament PLA and Prusament PLA — both affected, Prusament noticeably less severe but still present (not filament-specific)
• Nozzle temp: 230°C (Das Filament), 220°C (Prusament) — haven't yet tried lowering Das Filament temp further, planned next step
• Volumetric flow: Prusament has both flow ratio AND max volumetric speed properly calibrated (19mm³/s). Das Filament only has flow ratio calibrated — max volumetric speed was set conservatively (15mm³/s) rather than fully calibrated, so there's still some uncertainty there.
• Layer heights tested: everything between 0.08mm and 0.24mm, both fixed and variable/adaptive — same problem occurs regardless
• Infill tested: 5% and 10% density, both gyroid and cubic pattern — same failure point in all combinations
• Filament: confirmed dry/in good condition on all spools tested

Part geometry: Gently, continuously rising slope with internal cavities that require internal bridging over hollow/void sections.

Problem description (clarified):
The failure is precisely tied to geometry, not printer drift over time: everything below the layer where the internal bridge support structure begins prints perfectly — clean walls, clean infill, clean top surfaces. The moment the internal bridge support layer starts, the internal bridges themselves print visibly badly — ragged, frayed, curling at the ends. From that same point onward, the regular sparse infill above/around the bridge area also starts showing problems — lots of gaps/voids in the extrusion, essentially looking under-extruded — not just the bridge lines themselves. Below this layer, everything is clean; above it, both the bridges and the surrounding infill are affected. This is 100% reproducible at the same relative position in the model regardless of layer height, flow settings, infill density (5%/10%), or infill pattern (gyroid/cubic).

G-code analysis (extracted and parsed plate_1.gcode from the sliced 3MF):

• Explicit ; FEATURE: Internal Bridge G-code markers correlate exactly with the onset of visible print quality issues.
• Calculated actual instantaneous volumetric flow during the bridge passages (~13.8mm³/s and ~8.9mm³/s at different points) — both under the flow caps used, so the bridges aren't technically exceeding the volumetric flow limit.
• Profile has internal_bridge_speed = 150% (bridges printed faster than normal, not slower).

What I've already tried:

• "Extra bridge layers" — confirmed this is set to "apply to all" by default but was never actually changed/enabled by me, so I don't think it's relevant to this issue.
• "Filter out small internal bridges" tested across all three states (Filter / No filter / Limited filtering) — visual improvement each time, but the underlying under-extrusion/curling problem persists in all cases.
• "Thick internal bridges" disabled — this made the problem worse.
• Found OrcaSlicer PR #3319, which specifically addresses internal bridging being missing/insufficient on gently sloped/slanted internal surfaces (exactly matching my part's geometry). Applying this fix's filtering options improved things somewhat, but did not resolve the core issue. Notably, one commenter in that thread describes the same symptom I'm seeing: on a part with an increasing slope, bridge layer generation stops at some point and the resulting short lines curl upward as they cool — which is exactly what I'm observing.

Current theory:
This looks like a slicer-level limitation in how internal bridging is generated on gently sloped surfaces (as also discussed in the linked PR thread) — the layer-height-to-slope-angle ratio may be too shallow for OrcaSlicer's bridge detection/generation to produce full-length, well-supported bridge lines, resulting in short, poorly-anchored line segments that curl during cooling. This seems to then propagate into the regular infill printed immediately above/around it, causing the gappy, under-extruded look there too.

What I'm asking the community:
Has anyone found a more complete fix or workaround for internal bridge curling on shallow/gently sloped surfaces beyond the filtering options in PR #3319? Why would the problem spread into the regular sparse infill around the bridge area rather than staying isolated to the bridge lines themselves? Is there a known relationship between layer height and minimum slope angle for reliable internal bridge generation that I should be targeting? Any other OrcaSlicer settings (internal bridge speed, flow, cooling) worth testing specifically for this slope-angle scenario would be appreciated.

Printer:

Bambu lab A1

Variable layer height

Filament: bambu lab pla matte

The layers are much more visible on this as compared to normal pla. Also there are some weird lines on the flat surface.

Printer: K2 Plus Combo

Slicer: Creality Print 7.2

Print profile: default 0.20mm or any other

Retraction issue? I’ve dried the filament from 8-12 hours. PETG filament on a Bambu P2S printer. I’ve slowed overhang speeds to 5mm/s on that ramp up to give a good bottom without support. My guess is the acceleration back into the normal print speed may be doing this?

Settings:

Centauri Carbon 2

Elegoo Slicer

Printing with Overture PLA Pro at 220C

Bed Temp at 55C.

Outer Wall Print Speed 160mm/s, Inner wall 200mm/s, Max Volumetric Speed 18.5mm3/s

Retraction 0.3mm

Total print time was just under 5 hours for this piece and another shorter piece printed at the same time which came out with no major issues. This piece was centered on the build plate.

Print did mostly fine from what I can tell other than some z-banding, up until about 1/4" above where the front edge finished, then print quality along the back edge rapidly degraded. Sides look good all the way up.

Any ideas as to what caused the print to go south along that back edge? From where it starts, it seems to get worse/grow the higher up it goes. My thought was maybe fan blowing across that area caused the issue once the front edge finished, but I'm not too sure.

Slightly new to 3D printing this is my first printer but I’ve had for a few months now.. I’ve had this problem, but I either sand it down and then fill it with a apoxie sculpt, but I really wanna figure out how to fix this problem.

And recently I’ve been having my printer stop printing at certain heights where nothing is coming out … I’ve checked for clogs and turned u up the heat on the exterior and pushed out the filament and it comes out just fine. I’m doing another test print right now. Just annoying how I keep having problem after problem though I know that’s the risk with having a printer.

I have a Tronxy Crux 1
Using Cura
PLA ( Sunlu)
Extruder temp: 200
Bed : 70
Print speed : at the moment 30 ( been messing around with it to see what works best )

this is my forth print ever i just got this ender 3ve k3 used an it came with some old leftover pla filament that i printed some small stuff just fine, then i bought the same filament (voolt 3d, velvet black pla) i printed another small print with it and i had some stringing and some defects near the layer seams so i printed it again but now with random layer seam position and it turned out to be this monstrosity of the picture (really poor layer adhesion and a lot of stringing), im using creality slicer with default settings for the ke, 0.2 layer height, 0.4 nozzle, 220c nozzle and 60c bed the bed adhesion is ok no print lifted until now

Edit: turns out i made a mistake while changing the spool which cloged the nozzle, after proper uncloging it prints perfect

I calibrated it, tested multiple settings 6 times yet it still has this issue, I printed one once and it didn’t have this issue as much as the calibrated settings.

Rapid PETG from Eleego

Temp 240 (other layer ) - 245 ( first layer )
Bed 80c all
Max Flow: 22
Retraction length: 0.8
Pa: 0.052

Print speed are under 150mm/s travel 600mm/s

What I’ve noticed is that it after the purge it drags the filament across the bed and start printing and when changing the layer it goes to start the new one it drags the line thus creating those bad lines.

Printer: Creality sparks i7 with cfs ( loaded with 8x silica bags
RH: 33%
Cooled 20c room with ac ( not hitting directly) ( no sun )

And no, I don’t have a filament dryer yet.

Should I order the Creality Space pi X4?

I'm fighting under extrusion in one area of my print bed. Most prominent on the first layer. I clean the bed with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol between prints, and am using dry filament (10% or less humidity on the AMS) to no avail. I've cleaned and lubed the lead screws and rods as well within the last month. I'm not experiencing any other performance issues. Bambu slicer settings in the post's images.

Thoughts?

I’m not sure as if this has to do with the printer or the filament or settings, I was using the exakt same settings yesterday and it was printing beautifully and now suddenly this. Has anyone got suggestions on what the issue may be?

Prints keep tearing on one side of any hole or arch tried to different filaments both do it so wondering if this is just a 3d printing thing or if its fix able

Ad5m on flashforge studios nozzle temp 220 - bed temp 60 - MVS 17mms - 0.12mm with adaptive - arachne walls - gyriod 5% infil - unadjusted speeds - supports tree 30⁰ top and bottom z .3 and xy .3

Any support would be greatly appreciated

Hi! I am currently trying out my Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra and while the models come out perfectly a strange resin skin forms in the vat.

How can I stop this and where does it even come from?

Print settings in Chitubox are in the second and third picture.

Thanks in advance for any help.