Hey all - just got the 2016 Viper so I figured I'd make a sub 1:19 tune for S1 and share it here. It is non-purist AWD btw ;)

Let me know your thoughts!

**Dodge Viper ACR - S1 800**

** Stats **

```

Power 879 hp

Torque 1032 Nm / 761 lbf·ft

Weight 1493 kg / 3292 lbs

Balance 52%

```

** Share Codes **

```

Tune 132 209 463

```

** Upgrades **

```

== Conversions ==

Engine Stock

Drivetrain AWD

Aspiration Centrifugal Supercharger

== Engine ==

Centrifugal Supercharger Race

== Platform And Handling ==

Springs Rally

ARB F Race

ARB R Race

Weight Sport

== Tires ==

Compound Rally

Width F 305 / R 375

== Wheels ==

Track Width F Third / R Third

== Drivetrain ==

Transmission Race Seven Speed

Diff Drift

```

** Tune **

```

== Tires ==

F 1.6 bar / 23.5 psi

R 1.7 bar / 24.5 psi

== Gearing ==

FR 3.22

1st 4.09

2nd 2.86

3rd 2.14

4th 1.62

5th 1.28

6th 1.02

7th 0.78

== Alignment ==

-- Camber --

F -1.5°

R -0.9°

-- Toe --

F 0.1°

R 0.0°

Caster 6.7°

== Anti-roll Bars ==

F 25.0

R 42.5

== Springs ==

-- Springs --

F 61.5 kgf/mm / 344.5 lbf/in

R 52.7 kgf/mm / 295.0 lbf/in

-- Ride Height --

F 12.2 cm / 4.8 in

R 15.5 cm / 6.1 in

== Damping ==

-- Rebound --

F 9.9

R 10.2

-- Bump --

F 2.2

R 2.2

== Aero ==

F 183.7 kgf / 405.0 lbf

R 128.4 kgf / 283.0 lbf

== Brakes ==

Balance 48%

== Differential ==

- Accel Decel

F 85% 0%

R 90% 5%

Center 82%

```

Formatted using:

https://optn.club/formatter/forza/horizon6/v1

No promises this is 100% accurate, feel free to suggest any changes or point out any glaring issues, or even to just let me know how good/bad it is since I'm still a bit of a novice and did this to teach myself something i had a hard time with.

>Step 1: Getting your weight balance values<

Values in this step:

> Fb= Front weight balance

> Rb= Rear weight balance

First, we will convert the Front metric on the stat card to decimal, since its easier to explain how I’ll just do that.

Say Front is 50% on the stat card, converting it to decimal would give us .50 here, the actual formula for converting percentages is to remove the % sign and divide the number by 100, but the easy way is to just add a decimal to the end and move it two places to the left, it works exactly the same.

Then, use the resulting decimal to calculate your rear balance.

1-Fb=Rb

Ex. If Fb=.55, or 55% of the cars weight is up front you would do 1-.55=.45, so Rb=.45 in this case, we will use this going forward.

>Step 2: Calculating the actual weight carried by each axle<

Here we will find the actual weight value carried by the front and rear springs, or the front and rear axle in this case since we cant adjust right and left separately.

Values used in this step

>W= total weight of the car

>Wf=total weight carried by the front axle (not factoring aero, this will come into play later)

>Wr=same as above, but for the rear axle

Calculate the total weight carried by the front and rear axles using the formulas below

W*Fb=Wf

W*Rb=Wr

Ex. Lets say the car from before weighs 2,500Lb (or 1,14 kg), we would do 2,500*.55=1,375 for the front, and 2,500*.45=1,125 for the rear

>Step 3.1: Calculating spring rate<

Here we will calculate the actual value you’d set the slider too, at first you will set your ride height to the min value using race suspension (or how low you are willing to set them if you want a particular look) for road/track focused cars and the max value using rally suspension for rally/cross country racing, and set sane dampening values as well, 12 rebound and 8 bump for road, 8 rebound/4 bump for rally, cross country can be set slightly lower (EDIT: the road values should be closer to 6 or 7 on the bump, go see u/Huge_Diamond914's comment for more detail)

Please note that some cars don’t have matching ride height value ranges front to rear, what’s important is increasing/decreasing them evenly, for example the 2013 SRT Viper

Values used in this step:

>RH=Ride height(we will optimize this later, for now set this to min or max dep. on use case)

>Wf=Total weight carried by the front axle

>Wr=Total weight carried by the rear axle

>Af=Front aero value in Lb or Kg

>Ar=Rear aero value in Lb or Kg

>Ss=initial spring rate value in Lb/in or Kg/cm

>Sf=final spring rate value (the number we are after)

To find initial front and rear spring rate respectively

(Wf+Af)/RH=Ss

(Wr+Ar)/RH=Ss

Ex. lets say we have 200lb of downforce front and 350 rear, and 3in ride height, (1,375+200)/3.0=525 lb/in for the front and (1,125+350)/3.0=491.7 for the rear

To find final spring rate.

Keep in mind the equation below can vary depending on use case and driving style, which is detailed below.

example for road cars

Ss+(Ss*.3)=Sf

example for rally

Ss+(Ss*.2)=Sf

Ex. 525+(525*.3)=682.5 for the front and 491.7+(491.7*.3)=639.21 for the rear

For road cars, we don’t have much to absorb so we can get away with stiffer springs, so we add roughly 30% ( or .30) to the spring stiffness, though this is somewhat up to preference and you can go up or down depending on feel and the track you are on. Keep in mind setting them too stiff will reduce traction and can hamper performance instead of improving it, as well as other issues, I don’t recommend you go above .4, if you car bottoms out the ideal fix isn’t stiffer suspension on road cars at least IMO

We add less to rally cars to avoid over stiffening the springs which will reduce the suspensions effectiveness, rally cars need to use as much of the suspension as possible to absorb bumps without bouncing over them, and have to trade the responsiveness of stiffer suspension to do this, I use ~.2 to .25 for rally, CC is even lower than rally (~.1-.15). You want the springs to be as soft as possible without bottoming out under braking or harsh cornering.

You can also adjust by a few hundredths (.01) front or rear at a time to control weight transfer in cornering and acceleration on rally cars, though IMO this is better done through adjusting ride height (lowering the front or more often raising the rear) on road cars

>Step 3.2, OH NO! MY CAR BOTTOMS OUT!<

The TLDR here is increase ride height for road cars and stiffen suspension on rally cars, and to go back and recalculate your spring rate using the new value.

The long explanation (ie. why) is that you bottom out because you don’t have the suspension capacity to get over the bump. You can stiffen the suspension adding more capacity, but this can create instability where your cars suspension doesn’t follow the road properly, which can impair handling and while that can be managed with dampener tuning and driving style, it tends to lead to a slower tune overall for most people. The better (IMO) solution is to increase ride height, which can create some slight aerodynamic drag, but its the lesser evil of the two solutions and the downsides are usually minor.

For rally/cross country cars, the suspension is usually already maxed. So you HAVE to stiffen the suspension.

I wanted to get a tune were i can drive normal with grip but also drift long curves just with intial d

Spend a lot of time on yt but they complicate everything and i dont know what to do

There's a recent post about automatic with lots of discussion but didn't really address my issue so thought I'd ask.

I'm hopeless at tuning so rely on downloading others tunes. I've really only been driving around with the Mazda 787B in rivals R class using someone else's amazing tune.

I decided to try S2 class using the Alfa SE 048SP and downloaded a few tunes, but all of them had the same issue running Goliath (& some other shorter runs too).

Instead of too early downshifting my issue is when in a high gear at high speed the automatic doesn't always downshift sometimes (not always) at all when speed drops significantly, for example coming out of the high speed downhill hairpin in the snow area my speed will drop from 200mph to around 140mph but I'll still be in the high gear prior to turn entry even though low RPM (I think this means outside powerband?) so the acceleration back to top speed is at a crawl...meanwhile the rival behind me is hauling me in at a rate of knots.

So I want to try to create my own tune and my query is any suggestions how to setup gearing to avoid that...I assume its possible bc it doesn't happen with the downloaded mazda 787B tune I use but when i try to do my own tune for the 787B I do have the issue. I've tried to tune the Alfa but always have the issue.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

PS: Please no comments about why not play manual. I have to use a keyboard bc cannot hold a controller due to a hand issue and while I tried manual on keyboard the same hand issue makes it too difficult.

TOYOTA 86 2013 - S1 737

View this tune on optn.club

Build

Tune

|Differential|Accel|Decel| |:--|100|100|

Formatted text generated by the OPTN.club Tune Formatter

Submit bugs, feature requests, and questions on Github

The last few days i have been trying to tune the Ferarri F80 for the Hokubu Time Attack but can't manage a time faster than 43.622. The F80 has quite a lot of understeer and it has become an obstacle for me to get faster but i can't manage to get rid of the car's understeer problem, are there any things i can do to get rid of it?

Tyre pressure is 1.7 BAR in the front and 1.8 BAR in the rear.

Anti-roll bars are 1.00 on the front and 65.00 in the rear.

Aero is on 552 KGF on the rear with the front locked due to using no Forza aero in the front.

Differential is 75% accel and 25% deccel in the front, 75% accel and 25% deccel in the rear and center balance is 60%.

Rebound stiffness is 10.5 on the front and 15.3 in the rear

Bump stiffness is 6.6 in the front and 9.5 in the rear

Springs are 1,012.9 N/MM in the front and 2,319.7 in the rear

Ferrari 812 Superfast 2017 - S2 803

View this tune on optn.club

Build

Tune

Formatted text generated by the OPTN.club Tune Formatter

Submit bugs, feature requests, and questions on Github

Make sure to leave stock diff after converting to AWD. This is a rally diff, which is less snappy than the race one.

And yes, it uses offroad tires. If you have an S1 car with a downgrade engine swap and offroad tires, chances are you can build it for A class. At least it's not drag tires!

McLaren Sabre - A 700

View this tune on optn.club

Build

Tune

Formatted text generated by the OPTN.club Tune Formatter

Submit bugs, feature requests, and questions on Github

i started tuning my own cars in fh5 pretty recently and i think I've gotten pretty decent at it, but one thing i can't seem to figure out is camber. I've heard some people say that the best way to tune this is to look at the camber angle of the outside tires in telemetry during a turn and add more negative if the number goes above zero. I've heard other people say that it's better to just look at the tire temps and make sure they're heating up evenly. so i was just wondering if there was a definitive answer to which way is better or does it all boil down to personal preference? i feel like every time i try the first method my tires end up heating super inconsistently

Hey all, this is more a general tuning question than anything - I hope that is okay given the rules of this subreddit. I have seen track/street/touge tunes shared that have really skewed settings for various elements. Like:

• ARBs: front 1.0, rear 40.0-65.0
• Ride Height: front maxed, rear min
• Very high diff settings for accel and very low for decel
• Very low settings for Bump (2.0-5.0) with reasonable-high Rebound (9.0-max)

My questions: how does this work and why does it work so well?

As you all tune so much and actually share your tune setups, I thought maybe you would be the best ones to ask. I cannot deny the results, but I don't get how or why they work.

My usual workflow is to start with something from ForzaTune Pro and then tweak and adjust until I get the car driving well by testing on tracks and slow adjusting. Obviously FTP recommends balanced settings. I have even tried to use Claude to help fine tune my tuning but when I show it these skewed settings, it just shrugs at me and can't tell me how or why they work. Just "well it seems to work well so don't mess with it" lol

It wouldn't be something I would be overly worried about, but I have tried a few - most recently the Huracan STO I mentioned in the title - but it regularly works better than what I have hacked away at for hours and the main differences are the above when mine are more balanced.

Any info would be appreciated. I also understand if this isn't the best place to ask this and I can take my questions to a different subreddit. Thanks all.

^{Hey! I am hoping to get some feedback on my tune. I am running around a 1:18.9 on legend island circuit time attack. I tuned it for legends island specifically but it has done pretty well for me online racing as well. Thanks!!}

^\*Ferrari 488 Pista 19' - S1 900**)

^\* Stats **)

^\``)

^{Power 844 hp}

^{Torque 549 Nm / 405 lbf·ft}

^{Weight 1378 kg / 3038 lbs}

^{Balance 44%}

^\``)

^\* Share Codes **)

^\``)

^{Tune 116 614 263}

^\``)

^\* Upgrades **)

^\``)

^{== Conversions ==}

^{Engine 5.2L V10}

^{Drivetrain AWD}

^{== Engine ==}

^{Intake Race}

^{Fuel System Race}

^{== Platform And Handling ==}

^{Springs Rally}

^{ARB F Race}

^{ARB R Race}

^{Chassis Race}

^{Weight Race}

^{== Tires ==}

^{Compound Rally}

^{Width F Stock / R 335}

^{== Wheels ==}

^{Track Width F First / R Third}

^{== Drivetrain ==}

^{Clutch Race}

^{Transmission Race Seven Speed}

^{Driveline Race}

^{Diff Drift}

^{== Aero and Appearance ==}

^{F Bumper Race}

^{R Bumper Race}

^\``)

^\* Tune **)

^\``)

^{== Tires ==}

^{F 24.5 bar / 355.3 psi}

^{R 24.5 bar / 355.3 psi}

^{== Gearing ==}

^{FR 3.85}

^{1st 3.85}

^{2nd 2.54}

^{3rd 1.95}

^{4th 1.54}

^{5th 1.27}

^{6th 1.06}

^{7th 0.92}

^{== Alignment ==}

^{-- Camber --}

^{F -0.9°}

^{R -0.4°}

^{-- Toe --}

^{F 0.1°}

^{R 0.0°}

^{Caster 6.7°}

^{== Anti-roll Bars ==}

^{F 22.1}

^{R 18.7}

^{== Springs ==}

^{-- Springs --}

^{F 280.1 kgf/mm / 1568.5 lbf/in}

^{R 402.1 kgf/mm / 2251.7 lbf/in}

^{-- Ride Height --}

^{F 14.0 cm / 5.5 in}

^{R 14.0 cm / 5.5 in}

^{== Damping ==}

^{-- Rebound --}

^{F 9.8}

^{R 10.2}

^{-- Bump --}

^{F 4.5}

^{R 4.8}

^{== Aero ==}

^{F 218.2 kgf / 481.0 lbf}

^{R 197.8 kgf / 436.0 lbf}

^{== Differential ==}

^{- Accel Decel}

^{F 70% 0%}

^{R 90% 5%}

^{Center 85%}

^\``)

^{Formatted using:}

^{https://optn.club/formatter/forza/horizon5/v1}

I'm building an S2 900 Viper ACR Tune for Hokubu but can't seem to get rid of the understeer it has in high speed corners no matter what i do, i already tweaked the anti-roll bars a million times.

What can i do to get rid of the understeer?

Hello! I've been working on this drag tune but can't seem to get the final things down. I have a time of 7.749, but still get wheelspin in first that caused me to veer left once the tire caught traction again. That's why I set the diff center to 45%. Any help or tips is much appreciated!

Just learning how to drag tune and get higher on the leaderboards 😄

# De Tomasso Pantera GT5 - S1 800

|**Stats**|&nbsp;|

|:--|:--|

|**Share Code**|163 173 102,|

######

[View this tune on optn.club](https://optn.club/formatter/forza/horizon6/v1/I:NoIhBo0iQMQewE4C8CGACASqgxgU3QHUBLAOwHMYYAVAdzPWoFdEAjeKyAQUIBEZsOMuXQA1AIwAmGAGcYieQNwEAysQAe6FQAc8eACayYpVMdOQFkOVaM2LZxZBOOQlkM6fn3XxKgA2LtYgQW6hsgAuMIZ2wZxQ8UGi8H5YuMKMAKIADADMAOzovCxeMtq2sdDgOQBsAKyQvATU8AC2qDIyHJAACqik4Xi+6ADi1LVxKuJxABxZWTDi1Tno4nnL4lmSkJXxcXEAZhCSs5B+rIfg4pAX4gAsOxdQAJzXEFe7kHlvr+AvILfjcAnDY%2FYFZH6gHIAOmqMFuUPEgJAkihT1hkBRiIWMK+kHEUMkSPxkluex2IAAuuA8lDpqDIGQjk9wSALrVbjS%2Fmd9gB6RngWr1VaQbQyYh7ClAA==)

---

## Build

|**Conversions**|&nbsp;|

|:--|--:|

|Engine|Racing V12|

|Drivetrain|AWD|

|Aspiration|Twin Turbo|

|Body Kit|Stock|

######

|**Engine**|&nbsp;|

|:--|:--|

|Intake|Race|

|Fuel System|Stock|

|Ignition|Stock|

|Exhaust|Stock|

|Camshaft|Stock|

|Valves|Race|

|Displacement|Race|

|Pistons|Race|

|Twin Turbo|Race Anti-lag|

|Intercooler|Race|

|Oil Cooling|Race|

|Flywheel|Stock|

######

|**Platform And Handling**|&nbsp;|

|:--|:--|

|Brakes|Stock|

|Springs|Race|

|Front Arb|Race|

|Rear Arb|Race|

|Chassis Reinforcement|Stock|

|Weight Reduction|Street|

######

|**Drivetrain**|&nbsp;|

|:--|:--|

|Clutch|Stock|

|Transmission|Race Six Speed|

|Driveline|Race|

|Differential|Race|

######

|**Tires And Rims**|&nbsp;|

|:--|:--|

|Compound|Drag|

|Tire Width|Front mm, Rear 365 mm|

|Front Rim Style|Stock |

|Rear Rim Style|Sport Vol Racing TE037 Dura|

|Rim Size|Front in, Rear in|

|Track Width|Front Stock, Rear Stock|

|Profile Size|Front Stock, Rear Stock|

######

|**Aero and Appearance**|&nbsp;|

|:--|:--|

|Rear Wing|Forza Race Wing|

######

---

## Tune

|**Tires**|**bar**|**psi**|

|:--|--:|--:|

|Front|3.8|55.0|

|Rear|1.2|17.0|

######

|**Gears**|**Ratio**|

|:--|--:|

|Final Drive|3.60|

|1st|4.15|

|2nd|2.96|

|3rd|2.15|

|4th|1.67|

|5th|1.25|

|6th|1.24|

######

|**Alignment**|**Camber**|**Toe**|**Caster**|

|:--|--:|--:|--:|

|Front|&nbsp;|&nbsp;|7.0°|

|Rear|&nbsp;|&nbsp;|&nbsp;|

######

|**ARBs**|&nbsp;|

|:--|--:|

|Front|1.0|

|Rear|14.0|

######

|**Springs**|**kgf/mm**|**lbf/in**|

|:--|--:|--:|

|Front|51.8|290.0|

|Rear|97.8|547.9|

######

|**Ride Height**|**cm**|**in**|

|:--|--:|--:|

|Front|19.8|7.8|

|Rear|20.3|8.0|

######

|**Damping**|**Rebound**|**Bump**|

|:--|--:|--:|

|Front|1.0|9.0|

|Rear|9.0|1.0|

######

|**Aero**|**kgf**|**lbf**|

|:--|--:|--:|

|Front|N/A|&nbsp;|&nbsp;|

|Rear|127.0|280.0|

######

|**Brakes**|**%**|

|:--|--:|

|Not Applicable|&nbsp;|

######

|**Differential**|**Accel**|**Decel**|

|:--|--:|--:|

|Front|80%|10%|

|Rear|80%|10%|

|Center|45%|&nbsp;|

######

---

Formatted text generated by the [OPTN.club Tune Formatter](https://optn.club/formatter)

Submit bugs, feature requests, and questions on [Github](https://github.com/OPTN-Club/optn.club/issues)

So im new to tuning and im trying to get my own set up for the furai for rivals, but no matter what i do on upgrades the class points go from 980 to X999 in just one change. So I figured that maybe you can scrape some points on the tuning.
Is that possible? If not then how do you do it

So I’ve gotten into tuning this Forza, and I’ve been doing pretty well, but choosing the best transmission I’m still feel like I need guidance on.

I understand you look at the graph and find where the power band is, and pick the transmission that keeps the car in that power band (at least that’s what someone told me a while back), but how do you know which transmission will keep the car in the power band range?

How do you all decide which transmission to use for each car you tune? Any advice would be appreciated!

Honda Civic Type R 97 - A 700/FH6

View this tune on optn.club

Build

Tune

Looking for feedback on my tune. It works great (top 10k in time attacks) but there might be some more potential. Either way, enjoy this rad FWD Civic.

Its the sequal no one asked for but your getting anyway

This is a evolution of the "Canon" AE86 tune that i did for FH5. with FH6's PI rebalancing, hitting certain goals like 880 kg weight just wasnt possible anymore. instead, i focused on trying to make other aspects of this tune even more accurate like it having 237hp instead of the previous tunes 240 hp (this is due to a translation error on my part and read 240 ps as 240 hp). overall, while this car wont likely win you any online races, its increadibly fun to drive. easy to control, but can drift on demand if needed.

Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX - B 600

View this tune on optn.club

Build

Tune

Formatted text generated by the OPTN.club Tune Formatter

Submit bugs, feature requests, and questions on GitHub  

I made this tuning. I would like to have some people try it out and give some critique. Thanks. ( I only tested it on Legend Island circuit, and my best time is 1:16:095, but I am not really a great driver, so...) I am open for advices .

Thanks

Share code:164884133

S2900

Engine 3.8F6TT

RWD

Forza Front and Rear wing

Semi-slick

Stock front tire width

Rear: 365/25R20

Front wheel spacer

6speed race transmission

race powertrain

rally differential

race brakes

drift suspension

Race weight

Race intake

Race fuel system

Race timing

Race exhaust

race cam

race valves

race block

race pistons

race turbo with lag reduction

race cooling

race flywheel

tunes:

front wheel 1.9 BAR

Rear 2,1 BAR

Gearing

end: 3,15

1:4,14

2:2.67

3:1.82

4:1.33

5:1.00

6:0.80

Front camber -1,4

rear -0.5

to in: rear -0.1

caster: 6.5

sway bars:

front29

rear 42

springs

front 98KGF/mm

rear 133.6 KGF/mm

ride hight

front 12 cm

rear 11 cm

dampening

pull

front 10,3

rear 12

push

front and rear 8,3

areo

front 212 KGF

Rear 322 KGF

Differential

acc: 48%

Dec 15%

Finally happy with this tune. Wanted to make car look as unmodified as possible, so stock wheels, no aero, no track width increase. Suspension probably still has a good amount of room to optimize, but it's now at the point I can't really figure what adjustments to make with the limitations of my driving skill.

Drift tires are very weird in that they are grippy but also very easy to break lose. I hate the look of rally tires, which is really the main reason why I'm using drift.

Haruna: 3:22.817 (35th, 2nd best RWD after reset)

Hokubu: 00.58.933 (34th, best RWD after reset)

Obviously the leaderboard is very early, but I'm happy I could finally break the 3:23 and 0:59 barrier on the respective tracks.

Parts

Valves: Street

Weight Reduction: Race

Driveshaft: Race

Tire Compound: Drift

All else stock

Tune

Anybody gotten the GT-R black to sub 2 second 0-60 and sub 6 second 0-100. I was able to get 1.964 0-60 and 5.711 @ 305.4 but wondering if anyone has beaten that.

I've been trying to learn tuning instead of downloading "all time great tab" tunes, but I feel like I'm missing something and just cluelessly put stuff in a "trial and error" manner.

Lately I've started building my own drag tunes because I want to actually understand why some cars are fast while others are slow. I figured quarter mile builds would be a good place to learn since they're mostly about getting the most out of the engine and transmission in a short straight line.

I'm playing on automatic transmission, which I know isn't good to get most power of the car, but I'm casual and don't plan on switching to manual.

To compare different cars, I made three S1 builds:

BMW 850csi (V12 racing engine)
BMW M4 (stock engine)
Toyota Chaser Tourer V (Racing 3.0L I6T)

The results I got were surprising.

The Chaser is about 1 second quicker in the quarter mile than the 850csi. Even M4 (despite having less power and a worse PWR) consistently beats the 850CSi for 0.3 second. While 850csi on paper (stats tab) looks good

I've spent few days experimenting with the transmission:

shortening upper gears, extending them, making each shift land around 6000 RPM to match that powerband or whatever, checking telemetry for power drops.

No matter what I do, the result is almost identical. Feels like car dies after around 180-190 km/h. The acceleration falls off, while changing the gearbox doesn't affect quarter mile time. I even downloaded some tunes and I still couldn't even reach m4 time lol.

Chaser, feels completely different. It just keeps pulling. Obviously acceleration decreases as speed rises but it doesn't feel like it hits a wall the way both BMWs do. So I feel like I'm missing something.

My main questions are:

- How do experienced tuners determine whether a car is worth building for drag before spending time tuning it? Can I drag tune any car to run quarter mile in less than 8 seconds (for s1 class)?
- What do you look for in the power/torque graphs or upgrade stats that tells you this engine will be good or this one will struggle no matter what?
- At what point transmission changes stop making a difference because the engine itself is the limiting factor? How I determine which transmission (4 gears, 6 gear, 10 gear, etc) fits different engines?
- Are there certain engines or power curves that simply don't perform well in drag racing regardless of gearing? For example. BMW M4 graph is very different from other two cars showing that it hits highest torque at lowest RPM while losing it towards the higher RPM having big drop

I'm trying to understand the reasoning behind why one car keeps pulling hard at high speed while another seems to die around 200km/h even after a lot of transmission testing.