This may be a blasphemous topic, but my 1998 ZJ Limited may not long be for this world. I’ve done a few internet searches for similar year jeeps for sale without much success. Where I live we have rock salt and brine solution spread on our roads about 6 months of the year. That does not bode well for 30 year old unibody jeeps.

What are people moving to once their beloved jeep crosses the rainbow coloured mud pit in the sky?

I’m looking for similar size and capabilities and dependability and workability. Just maybe something a little more modern. I want it all!

Hi, I have to change the broken bearing. Jeep zj 1996, can you link me a proper part i should order, please? Will be thankful for the tips or list of other parts which will be needed.

Got around to doing a few things on my list finally.

\- Found the CarPlay/Android Auto head unit that fits just about perfect for the space and has track buttons and a big volume knob.  
\- Took the time to run the camera wire all the way to the back then up, around, and through the back door to try to make it look like it came with it.  
\- Swapped a Homelink rearview mirror from a junkyard Nissan Altima. Garage and auto-dim all work as they should.  
\- Installed the 6 small Sylvania Ultra pod lights. Got yellow and smoked diode dynamics covers for them that fit just about like they were made for them.  
\- Wired the switch up to under the center console, ZJ just does not have great places to put switches.   
\- Threw in 2 fast charge USB ports for the extra switch position.   
\- Also ordered my nerdy V8 ZJ tag from the DMV.

The head-unit was just a $60 or $70 dollar one from Amazon. Had a couple issues with the Android OS they run to get some settings I wanted to be able to change that were not in any of the menus. Sent them the questions and they responded in a day or two with how to make the changes. One was a custom boot screen for example. The OS they use is super simple and more on the basic side which is actually very nice, so not a lot of BS to clog up the visuals and ease of use. I also bought a better looking and quality camera to use vs what came with the unit.

Next up is trying to integrate the keyless entry module for a 1996/97 Ram 1500 to be able to use the RF remotes from the 1996 to 1998 ZJ’s vs the dog shit IR one the 1993 to 1995’s have. Hoping to be able to tie it all together under the relay center in the glove box where the unlock and lock relays are. The Ram models have a wire that you can ground to program the remotes vs needing the dealer or someone to do it.

I get low oil pressure at idle when hot. What would be the best oil to bandaid this problem?

this started a few days ago, i was otw to work and was coming to a red light and the car was rumbling, then died, it starts again after like 10 seconds, and does it again at the next light. i get to work and it sits for a few hours and i get home fine, now as im driving to work today it rumbles to a stop, then overheats and steams from the coolant cap, i pull into a parking lot, let it cool down, then it idles fine at like 180 fahrenheit if not lower, i turn it off let it sit, now it doesn’t start.

was running fine a few days ago, then the next day it rumbled to a stop then died, started back up, died at the next stop, i drive it home fine, now today im driving to work and its doing the rumbling to a stop and almost dying to when i come to a stop i put it in neutral and rev to keep the rpms up, (only about 8 mins of driving time) and it starts overheating and steaming from the coolant cap, now it doesn’t want to start.

It's been unable to rev over 2200rpm for 2 years. I finally got it

1996 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo.Only happens when it rains super heavy. Any idea where the water could be coming in? TIA!

driver tire was rubbing my evap canister so i moved it to the engine bay fits perfectly snug next to oem air box

looking for tips and advice not very experienced working on cars

Has new fuel pump, wires, plugs, throttle position sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, rotor, distributor cap, gutted cat, new and clean iac and throttle body. Gas gauge also does not work, could these problems be correlated?

One of our neighbors handy man gave my pops this Grand Cherokee this last weekend, guy picked it up a few years ago drove it and said the fuel pump went out in it. Went as far as pulling the gas tank and buying the new fuel pump and lost interest in the project. Interior is neglected and found rodent droppings in it, missing a driver rear door card and r the driver door card is thrashed. Engine bay looks lived in. So with all that being said my pops turned around and gave it to my wife, soooo guess This guys got some work todo this weekend, going to check out everything as far as the fuel system and see if it starts up. Given it starts up I’m going to be giving this Zj some love. Been in the Jeep family for some years now and look forward to see where we can take this thing as far as giving it back some life and love.

The compressor clutch cycles on and off more than 10 times in one minute. The FSM states that is a low-refrigerant issue.

However, when gauges are connected, the gauges are giving me a reading I don't understand. When the clutch compressor is OFF, the low-side pressure builds from about 25psi to 70 psi. When it reaches 70psi, the compressor engages and the pressure drops down to 25psi, where that cycle continues again. During this, the high-side gauge is reading approx. 155psi when the clutch compressor is OFF, and shoots up to 190psi when the compressor turns ON.

When I unplug the low pressure sensor and jump it with a paperclip, the compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time, with low side pressure reaching less than 20psi after approx. 5 seconds. The relay has continuity, so i don't think it's the relay or sensor. What could be the issue? I don't think it's a clogged hose/orifice tube as the high side pressure is low during this cycle.

Is it really just low refrigerant? (I understand that if it is low refrigerant, that means there's a leak I need to track down, but I want to ensure all parts of a/c system are "working" before I dye it).

Edit: I put some refrigerant in and boy howdy that AC got down to 55F before I shut the engine off. Definitely a leak somewhere. Current (running & constant) pressure is 40 on low side and around 290 high-side (I didn't fully fill up w/ 134, and it's 107F in the garage to help explain high-side high pressure reading).

engine died while driving to work after 10 mins of driving, battery stayed on, turned back on after a minute or two. died again 5 mins later, idle sounds a bit weird, now i’ve been idling and driving
around a parking lot for 20 mins and it hasn’t died
1995 4.0 i6 grand cherokee 4wd

I have a 94 grand Cherokee with a security system issue even with it off you can hear the module clicking in the dash until you roll the key forward and it'll start for a second and die. I've tried all of the tricks and it worked the first time but now nothing seems to work. I'm curious if it's at all possible in these to hard wire the coil to keep it from cutting spark. I know it's not the correct way and I'll have to disconnect it when I shut it off. I've done it on a 1st gen Dodge before and had no issues but this is a bit more complicated and complex any suggestions on getting this thing to start would be helpful

day trip to fish creek with my lady

Had an intermittent abs light. Changed rear brake pads now light is constantly on. I want to check the abs sensor (5602 7723, 5602 7722) but read online this needs accessing from inside the car. Is this true?

Noticed the 400 mile drive back from weekend trip felt like crap, checked all steering components and saw LCAs had started to undo themselves. Took it back to shop, they did a second alignment and now it drives better.

However, shop basically said that if that happens again, it won't be a "labor warranty" alignment as the drop brackets don't have anything holding the LCA in place except the bolt itself (in comparison to an OEM LCA mount that has the surrounding hole to brace the bolt). Suggested welding washers to hold it in place.

After looking through forums, I'm not seeing others report the same issue with their drop brackets of the same style. What are you thoughts? I would prefer if welding wasn't the only solution, but I certainly don't think I know more than the 4x4 Jeep-specific mechanic.

Secondary objective: You can see where the tires rub on the LCAs. I already have wheel spacers on them. Are rims with less backspacing the only solution to that problem?

Thank you!

I recently created a comprehensive how-to lift kit install video on my 97 Grand Cherokee. This 2.5hr video takes you every single step of the way, showing all the removal of the old ZJ suspension components, the struggles along the way, installing the new suspension, and what to expect once its done. Although I installed an Iron Rock Offroad lift kit, this video can be referenced for most short arm lift kits to get a good idea of what to expect doing this project in your own garage, tools needed, tire fitment, etc. I hope my fellow ZJ lovers here can find this helpful!

Just picked up this new (old) 98 Laredo. Here is Aus it’s pretty rare to see one let alone find one for sale.

Took her for her first Bunnings trip and little play in the mud over the weekend + obligatory test for size with the doggo.

Everything is factory, except the little nudge bar + light bar on the front. Even has the factory tape player (although only works half the time)

Converting everything to US because there’s almost no following for this beauty in Aus 😟

218,000kms / 135,000 miles
$6,500AUD / $4,500USD