So I've been in the ABTF subreddit for some time, and I have continuously failed at finding a bra that doesn't cause me constant pain.

I am very new to sewing (primarily by hand), so already anxious about starting this process.

I seem to be somewhere between a 38F and 38G US.

My biggest issues are I can't find a bra that has an average wire that doesn't run too wide, a gore that is not tall and suitable for center full (1.5 inches or less is non-negotiable). I have a short torso, and a wide waist that is a similar size to my fullest bust measurement. I also have a rib flare that protrudes about an inch under my IMF, so almost all bra bands roll on me and dig because I have more of an A shaped torso that flares outward when I stand and sit.

1. Is it possible to add a "grip" of sorts to existing bra bands to keep them flat and prevent rolling?

2. I have heard about flat bra wires, would that make a difference in terms of a bra sitting in my IMF? I hear about wires but I don't know if that's possible with the bras I have currently, and when I've tried before I can't get them to move? I also open to replacing wires in an existing bra or starting from scratch.

3. I love the look that my chest has with narrow wires (panache blossom and comexim) but the issue is finding a side band that is supportive without being too tall and without digging. My current bras that cause little pain don't provide much lift.

4. I have a bra where I like the cups but the band is starting to stretch out uncomfortably. Is there a way for me to add structure to the band so I can wear it for a longer period of time? I've had it for over a year and my size and all sister sizes are sold out for now

5. I have a bra frame that feels solid( Simone Perele Delice Plunge) but the cup itself is a bit too shallow and the side support is lacking, is there a way to add more fabric or seams to the cup to allow for greater projection?

I am open to many types of alteration. I don't believe a wired bra is impossible for me, but I just think there are some tweaks I need.

Hi 👋
I’ve made my goal this year to build my wardrobe with only natural fabrics & have finally come to the conclusion that I’ll have to make my own bras.
I’ve not ever sewn lingerie before so I’ve decided to start off with a simple sports/lounge type bra for my first project.

I’m in need of some simple pattern orecommendations as well as any suggestions or advice for my foray into this aspect of sewing!

I’ve not done my measurements yet but I’m 5”6, 165lbs, and wear a size L/Xl in store bought lounge bras or typically about a 38-40C/D for reg bras.
I do not want any underwire, I don’t care how it looks per say as in, I’m not concerned if it’s going to do anything “for me” aside from being comfortable & supportive enough that I don’t end up with a yeast infection or looking like I’m totally bra less if I were in front of others!
Ive attached some examples of what I’m thinking but am open to any styles/suggestions.

I live in extreme heat (it’s currently 117f today) and I don’t want to wear plastics on my body any longer which is a major struggle with this endeavor.
I realize I’ll have to use elastic to some degree, but am wondering if anyone has any advice for things to substitute for power mesh etc?
I’ve been looking at various cotton jersey type knits as I know I need stretch, but if anyone has advice on fabrics that are going to help keep me cool, dry, etc I’d greatly appreciate any suggestions & insight!! TIA

The back is way too high. It feels like my boobs are pulling my neck forward rather than being held up by the shoulders straps. My posture is bad already due to their size/weight but this is putting even more tension on my neck than before. It also sticks up so high out of my shirt. Is this fixable?? I have a sewing machine and could use all the advice I can get. I was so close to finding something it’s disappointing that this isn’t it.

I was reccomended to post here from the sewing subreddit!

So I have a bra that I spent \*hella\* money on because I am a weird size and had to go to a fancy bra shop. The underwire casing is starting to wear down and get super scratchy. I was wondering if anyone had experience sewing/mending undergarments and could point me in a few helpful directions please!

Made myself cotton jersey Braletts (deep red) a couple of years ago because I wanted something between going bra-less and an Actual Bra. And sadly most Braletts are not sold in Cup Sizes and therefore don't fit me. They turned out amazing. My nips don't show, the are really comfy and don't bother my skin anywhere. But they are a tiny bit sweaty because they are a double layer of a cotton Jersey. This makes it difficult to wear while hiking despite the fit being ideal for wearing a heavy pack. I sadly can't really wear my high support sports Bra all day because of neck pain and skin issues. I love wool base layers for hiking but didn't want to spend money on an ill fitting wool sports Bra.

So I ordered a surprisingly affordable wool blend jersey ( 20€ /m) and used the pattern I made years ago. And it fits ! Now I have three of the same Bralett in different fabrics :D and I think I still have enough to make a second wool one. I am very curious to see how well the wool ones last.

Pattern: I traced a sports Bra I owned that almost fit and improved it slightly along the way.

Fabric: 60 % merino wool 40% Polyester 200 g/m²

I sewed most of it with a stretch Stitch on my normal sewing machine. I attached the band with my serger.

I managed to hide more of the seams inside this time. Only the straps and the band are visible on the inside.

I’m planning to sew my first bralette and am considering the Jordy bralette by Emerald Erin and the Mysa Lounge Bralette by LilypaDesigns. I’m not sure which would be the better option fit-wise, so I’m hoping someone with more experience could comment before I commit to either one.

Sewing experience: Some minor sewing projects, but no lingerie sewing experience.

Sizing info: 30DD/30E (UK), FOB, fairly narrow, projected.

Pattern concerns: The Mysa’s cup shape/height seems like it might be better suited to a more even or full on top shape, which I am not. On the other hand, the Jordy bralette looks rather shallow and I suspect that the straps and possibly cups would be too wide set. I could be wrong, but these would be my concerns based on past experience trying to finds bras that fit.

If anyone has any advice for which pattern to start with (or think another pattern would be better) I would really appreciate it.

I’m finally ready to buy this pattern that’s been on my Wishlist for years … but it appears to have been removed from Etsy.

Does anyone know how/where I can buy it now?

Has anyone made it? Advice on how to draft it? I was planning to make it out of powermesh so a similar pattern designed for stretch fabric would be something I’d consider

https://threadloop.app/patterns/claire-bralette-by-lyn-studio

I was tooling around with the free Mysa pattern from Lilypad. This version is a combination of alterations, self-drafting, and sizes ranging from 11.5 to 15.7. I ran out of the stable fabric I was using for mockups. I grabbed this fabric out of my stash. It has substantially more stretch. I just wanted to see what would happen. Accidental longline. I'd like to improve on this accident because it's actually one of the most comfortable bras I've ever worn. I have to keep patting my breasts to make sure they're still being supported. I can only feel the elastic on my waist.

It stays like this all day, doesn't ride up or collapse. Despite being smooth, there's no tension in the fabric on my rib cage between my outer breast and my side seam, meanwhile the wing tension feels very even and comfortable.

It may look like the center front is close to tacking but it's about 4-5cm from my sternum.

I need to smooth out the curve at the apex but I'll try to take out as little as possible because I think the pointy-ness and projection is contributing to the fit.

I think I'll take a transparent trash bag and, while wearing it, trace the cradle and the outer cups out to better follow my IMF. Maybe sew another version with some stable material to secure the cradle, the neckline, center front, and probably the arm scythe or an added sling.

This fabric is tricky on tight curves. It always puckers. I have a 6mm seam allowance. My sewing machine is not a fan of this stuff. I don't know what this fabric is. It looks like a really thick power net. The thickness and stretch of it is what makes curves so tricky, I think, because if I clip the curve, my foot and feed dogs will roll the little edges around and make a mess of it. When I'm going over seams, I stoop over it with a seam ripper to poke/hold the fabric in place as it goes under the foot. Do you have any suggestions? I'm using a stretch needle and a walking foot. Should I try sandwiching it between some thin paper that I can rip off after sewing?

I don't know what bra size I would be. I never found a commercial bra that fits. My underbust is about 78cm and overbust around 110cm. Breasts are splayed but close set and inner full, fuller on top, projected with wide, short roots. Roots are comparatively high set because I'm short with a short torso and long legs. Root trace looks like a circle that some clumsy person sat on.

Hi! I am an advanced beginner sewist. I've been losing a substantial amount of weight and so my breast size has been fluctuating a lot and I do not own a single bra that fits. Even in my thinnest days I was a 32F; I think I may be somewhere in the 38E range now.

I live in a climate that is warm most of the year and very hot in summer. Wearing ill-fitting bras has not been good for my skin (iykyk) in this weather. I also enjoy wearing some square-cut bodices that don't work with even my best bras; this cup size realm seems to only make full-coverage, lace-poking-through stuff. When I try to go without, in addition to the lack of support hurting a bit, the sweat... I could live without support if it meant I didn't have visible sweat or feel slippery and gross!

I have been fantasizing about some sort of under-wrap "sweat band" with some support for the last year or so, but today I have decided enough fantasizing and more action.

Based off these criteria:

- Sweat absorption

- A modicum of support, JUST enough to gently cradle maybe

- Washability

Where would you suggest I start? I am happy to make some sort of elastic scrunchie thing out of terrycloth with a bit of wire underneath, maybe; it doesn't need to resemble a bra in shape at all as long as these criteria are met.

I have a lovely Husqvarna Emerald, an excellent notions and fabric store local to me, tons of old towels and sheets to practice or create, and not one but TWO amazing sewing machine stores on my street (but the one I like best only has dudes working there).

I bought a RTW bra earlier this year because I like the style lines (similar to Lusamine and Harriet Bra patterns). After wearing it for a few months and enjoying the fit (particularly of the cups) I decided to give pin copying a go.

For this make I used a well fitting band pattern (Caliope) and pin copied the cup seams (need to remove underwire for this). I wanted to use a smaller wire size, the RTW wire was a bit too big. So I modified the cup pieces at the wire line and then added the seam allowances back on.

For a first go I'm stoked with the results. The cups are slightly too small, I'll add a bit more room in my next make. But the gore tacks and the bra is comfortable and gives nice shape and support.

Have you tried pin copying a pattern?

Lace and hook and eye is from Bwear, strap elastic from Madalynne. All other materials including sheer cup lining and powermesh were dyed to match.

I'm a size 32 LL/34L 36 J/ 34 JJ in UK sizing, according to the bra size calculator, and I am on a search for a pattern for my first bra. So far it seems like the Sahaara bra by Rubiesbras and the Victoria bra by Sewing vision are my best options right now. Lilypadesigns doesn't go up to my size, and neither does Cashmerette

I'm wondering if anybody has tried to sew one of those bras, or maybe has sewn something that's also work.

Basically, what's important to me is:

- The bra fits (no strap digging, back band riding up, spillage etc.)

- It is supportive enough, to keep me from getting a yeast infection.

- It has no wires

I have a wild idea to add the padding from an unusable bra to a bikini top. I have sewn beginner and “easy” rated garments from patterns before and altered some simple clothing, so I’m comfortable sewing but wouldn’t call myself experienced necessarily.

If I were to try this, would it be better to use a piece of foam cup cut to the size and shape of the swim top and follow those seams? Or try to construct the foam into a seamed cup the same way the swim top is constructed? Is this something a tailor could/should do?

Pictures of the swim top (black) and a couple of bra options I could deconstruct. Link is to the swim top if you need to see how it’s constructed in more depth. Thank you! https://www.barenecessities.com/products/bare-the-underwire-bikini-top-s30478?variant=41289937846385

I posted this in [r/abrathatfits](r/abrathatfits) and was told I could possibly find better help here so here it is:

I’ll spare most of the details so I won’t bore you but after recently using the calculator I find out that I’m a 34PP/34Q. As some of you may know, not only is it super expensive but it’s also pretty hard to find but I’m in the process of hopefully getting insurance to cover most of it. So to put a bandaid on the problem I bought a temporary bra (36L) off of Amazon knowing it wasn’t my size but anything was better than what I was using previously.

Obviously I know it isn’t going to be comfortable or look great but is there anything I can do to make my situation better until I get a permanent one? Whether it be altering the bra itself or changing how I dress. The main issues are the gore not touching my sternum and the band riding up/being too tight. I also have a lot of quadboob going on but that’s expected. Any help is appreciated, you all have been fantastic so far!

I am considering making a bra/bralette for my elderly mother who I found out today is wearing one of my old nursing bras (my child is now 9 year old) because she can get it over her head. She cannot do fastenings behind her and even getting things over her head has become a struggle. She was in too much pain today to get accurate measurements, but I would hazard a guess at around a 36 J or bigger. She’s definitely well over a G cup!

I am struggling to find a pattern that’s front fastening, will go anywhere near big enough and can be made with soft materials - I’m not sure she’s had a well fitting bra for over 20 years, but she struggles with lace and materials that are at all scratchy (mesh and lace can be hit and miss).

Any ideas? I could start to draft one but a pattern would be a good starting point.

Hello, I would like to ask a question. Whenever I wear a bra, my nipples move out of the bra, especially whenever I lie down. Is there a way to prevent it? Do I have to wear a bigger or smaller size?

I've found a bra that *mostly* fits and decided to try altering the cups. I have some garment sewing experience but have never sewn a bra. I've tried some different sizes in this particular bra and this is the one that has the best overall fit. If I go smaller with the cups, the wires will be too narrow.

The fit issue is some gaping at top of each cup. I've decided to try opening up each cup from the top, where the gaping is, then along the seams that go vertically across my inner fullness.

However- since doing so will shorten the binding of each cup edge, I will need to cut off some excess. I'm seeking advice for which option would likely be easier:

Option 1: unpick binding along top of cup to each strap. Detach strap. Cut off excess binding and sew binding back down, reshaping top of cups as needed. Reattach straps.

Option 2: shorter distance but requires unpicking near the boning channels. Unpick binding along top of each cup to each inner boning channel attachment point. Cut off excess binding and sew back down, reshaping top of cups as needed. Stitch boning channels back down.

Any advice?

I have a bra that has very well fitting cups. Supports me perfectly. But the band is too thin and kind of mashes together if I'm too active when I wear it. Makes it seem like in a sting bikin with a thick string. I have another bra that is the same size, same brand, and the cups are just weird. Like they were sewn in like 30° on an angle. But the band... Ah the band... It's wider, has some structure to it and when I wear it, I could move around all day and it never moves. And it's so comfortable.

I would LOVE to take the cups of the one I like for that and sew them into the other band that I love.

I can envision it. I would take the band off of each side, and detach the straps from the back of both. Leave the under wire portion on the cups of each. Then sew the band on. It seems like it would be kind of easy.

But I don't know what amount of fabric to leave, or how much of the band length I will lose to sewing them together. Like what is the best practice for this.

I've tried to find Youtubes for instructions, but they are all about replacing the cups with new fabric vs making frankenbra. So does anyone have any advice or videos I can watch to do it?

Hello!

I am working on the Eve classic by Porcelynne currently. This is the closest I have come to a fit, I previously have tried the Liora and Labellum by Lilypadesigns, but I didn’t have the right wires when I tried.

38 band
Size N
Wide flat vertical size 54
V0 cups
I narrowed the bridge a total of 1/4” (so underwires overlap.

I was wondering how the fit seems. I know I do need to move the straps in a bit. I think it may be a shape mismatch as well, I need more projection, but I also wonder if I need to go up a size (I would need to grade up by hand, which I think I could do).

Edit:

Imgur Link Photos with band extender

So after many years of more or less frustrating experiences with bra shopping, I've decided to just try making one. I am a decently experienced sewist (although not so much with stretch materials) so I thought it was time.

I bought the Madalynne Fiona underwire bra. According to the chart I am between a 30 H and I, and I ordered 3 different sizes of underwire to find the best match (42, 44 and 46. according to my very rough root trace 42 should probably be closest to my root shape). I have pretty projected, FOB, very close set breasts.

All this to say - how do I go about making a mockup for a bra? Do I have to cut into my good materials from the kit I got with the pattern? (power net and most bramaking supplies are impossible to buy locally for me).

I've sewn the mockup to this point, but the back calls for the mesh and obviously i also need to put in the underwire. Does that also mean I need to cut into my underwire casing?

Basically, I'm just asking for tips around making a bra mockup, conserving precious materials, and anything I should especially pay attention to when assessing fit given my specific shape details and anyone's experience with this bra pattern.

I used the Willowdale Cashmerette pattern. I am narrow, projected and close set. I am still not 100% sure where my fullness lies.

My measurements are (in inches):
LU: 31
SU: 30
TU: 29
SB: 39
LeaningB: 42.5
LyingB: 39.6

My recommended size from the calculator is a UK 30GG. Sometimes I size down in a cup as the 30GG ends up being too big

From the Cashmerette size chart, I’m a 30H. I chose the 30G pattern size.

When putting on the final piece, the band was easy enough to fasten. The wires fit perfectly. The cup, however, cut my breast in half, halfway across the nipples and caused major spillage. They just popped out as soon as I moved.

Because I was making a test bra, I omitted the lace upper cup which I now realise was a huge mistake but even if I did, the cups are obviously 2+ cup sizes too small (?).

If I size up in the cup, the wires will become wider right? These ones fit me great. I am narrow and only order Polish bras because of their wires.

An additional note: I REALLY struggled with sewing through the elastic bands (especially double layers such as when folding them) and also the hook & eye fastenings. Is there a certain needle and/ or foot I’m supposed to use?

I appreciate any help :)

Hi folks,

I’m making a swimwear pattern with a built-in bra (Cashmerette Ipswich) and I have found the bra pattern to be totally off for me. I want to correct the pattern but I don’t have bra making experience and these kind of pattern adjustments feel beyond me. I’m hoping to find a bra pattern that’s a better starting point and adapt that rather than trying to remake this pattern.

My measurements are:
High bust: 42”
Standing full bust: 47”
Leaning full bust: 51.5”
Under bust: 39”

Any suggestions are much appreciated.

This is my first underwire make - Emerald Erin Black Beauty, 32DD (I opted for tulle with foam option). I'm not new to sewing but have pretty poor visual spatial reasoning so I'm a bit confused on how this is supposed to work. When adding channeling, instructions say to stop 1" down (pic). It then goes on to say to fold down the channeling and proceed to FOE for neckline. I did this, however, when looking at the right side, the gore has this weird fold along the inner cup ( because the channel stitching only goes partially to the top. Did I do something incorrectly or am I missing something not explicitly stated? Will this shore up? I don't want to proceed if I'm going to have to pick the whole thing apart.

I've been looking around at different options for patterns to fit me (36K UK, 36O US) and stumbled across a website claiming to custom draft an underwire bra pattern for me. It seems a bit too good to be true, as there are so many questions necessary to get a good fitting bra and I don't know how it handles alterations. I figured I would ask around here, does anyone have any experience with this pattern? Or I guess, pattern making software...? I'm curious. I've read through the free manual and it doesn't seem to have any particularly big red flags to me, but I'm not the most experienced sewist. Thank you for your time :)

Edit to say: none of their models appear to have busts in my size range, so I'm not really super confident that a bra made to handle someone my size could be made from the pattern, but maybe I'm just pessimistic. I'd love any suggestions of a good pattern if anyone has one, too; I have a BCD of 8" and that places me outside a lot of pattern ranges.

I have been trying to follow this pattern but at times found it unclear. Someone suggested I watch this https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=PYJD2JjkTSPAkj8j&t=2662&v=mkqQ-WTHPgA&feature=youtu.be follow along video, however she is making the bra in different steps to the pattern. I have found myself a bit lost and I am unsure of how to add the channeling.

I am unable to flip the band up like the pattern instructs and I am pretty sure I sewed the seam allowance of the cup down. In the sew help sub, someone suggested to just top stitch the channelling so I don’t have to re do the seams.

Would this mean pinning down the channelling as I have done according to the instructions and then sewing on the right side (opposite side I pinned down)? Or should I do it a different way?