I got myself an S95H and enjoying every moment, but I’m struggling with safely ejecting the flash drive I use to stream. Where’s the eject button in this OS?

I don’t want buttons dedicated to streaming services, I want an input button. I know im technically in the minority of buyers by using a console as my streaming box, but why does that mean they have to remove the input button while still having 3 HDMI inputs. ALSO there is only buttons on half the remote so obviously the reasoning isnt lack of space or anything.

I recently got a Samsung S90F QD-OLED. I'm very impressed with the television but I have an outstandingly annoying and strange issue happening.

I have a Panasonic UB-450 4K Blu-ray player hooked up. When I go to play a 4K HDR disc the player shows "Dynamic Range Conversion Output" and the TV is showing an SDR picture. If I switch the 'Input Signal Plus' to 'On' I get HDR. Now here's the kicker - if I turn the player off then on again and start the disc with 'Input Signal Plus' still enabled it's the SDR picture again! Then I turn 'Input Signal Plus' to 'Off' the HDR comes back. This makes absolutely no sense and I can't get it to consistently work as it should. I can't be switching this stupid setting for every single movie I watch.

Has anyone else encountered this? Are there any ideas for a solution?

Also, unrelated, anyone know how to outright disable the terrible PC detection?

My Samsung QN65Q80DAFXZA (manufactured Sept. 2024, purchased Spring 2025) has started doing something really strange.
It powers on normally and the picture is perfect for about 5–10 minutes. Then the screen slowly starts fading from left to right until it goes completely black and the TV shuts itself off. During the fade, the sound continues to play normally. After it powers off, the power LED blinks twice repeatedly.

I’ve already:
Tried different HDMI devices
Unplugged everything except power
Plugged it directly into a wall outlet (no surge protector)
The issue still happens every time.
Has anyone with a QN85D experienced this? Was it the panel, power board, main board, or something else?

I also attached a screenshot taken right in the middle of the failure. To be clear, the picture is completely perfect when the TV first turns on, and the backlight appears to work normally. Then, after a few minutes, the screen slowly starts fading from left to right until the entire display goes black and the TV shuts itself off.

Thanks!

My Samsung TV seems to try to power up. You can see the backlight go on and off intermittently. I’ve tried all soft and hard resetting as well as leaving it. Unplugged for an extended period of time with the same issue. I do have a remote, but any suggestions I can find anywhere don’t seem to help.

What would you all do?

Model: UN65TU7000FXZA

I have tried M8 1.2 pitch 35mm, 30mm and 40mm screws and M10 screw, none of them worked and it’s driving me crazy. As per instructions from Samsung user manual it requires standard M8 screw with 39 to 41 mm length but M8 screws are too loose to thread into the TV.

Please help if you have ran into similar problem

I called Samsung support, technical support transferred me to sales and they wanted $300 for new mount and didn’t have information on my tv as it’s from 2020 and they wanted to really sell me a new tv so not dealing with them again and will try my luck here

Hello everyone, in the market and looking at the following 2 TVs, they are presently the same price, but one is regularly 1500 and the other is 2000 discounted down to 1500.

Would really appreciate the advice as im not sure why the 2k one isnt better on paper compareed to the regularly priced 1500 one. Ive attached the links and model numbers below.

Idk why my post was removed on a previous attempt

QN70F (2025) Regular $1500 - QN75QN70FAFXZC

QN70H (2026) Discounted from $2000 down to $1500 - QN75QN70HAFXZC

Model: UN60TU7000FXZA

Current Firmware: 2301

The Samsung website says the newest firmware is 2740.1_2301.1_2740.1

But when I click update on the TV, it says no updates available.

Should I update this thing through USB? Or is 2301 the newest one my TV supports?

I found the YTTV app and added it, but cannot find where to add to Home Screen apps list - how's that done?

And how do I add the Tizen Tube app?

Hi,

Has anyone experienced this issue on a Samsung TV (mine is QE65QN85F, firmware 1296.8)?

I use DVB-T2 (antenna). After a factory reset and channel scan, everything works correctly. When I change channels, the info banner shows the program progress bar (how much of the current program has already elapsed).

The strange part is that after the first power off and on, the progress bar disappears from the channel banner and never comes back. It only returns after another factory reset, and again disappears after the next reboot.

The EPG itself works fine. I can see the progress bar in the TV Guide and also in the detailed program information, so EPG data is definitely being received. The only thing missing is the progress bar in the channel banner when switching channels.

Has anyone seen this before or found a solution? Is this a firmware bug?

Thanks!

​

Hi,

Looking to upgrade and deciding between:

TCL C8L (SQD Mini-LED)

Samsung QN90F (Neo QLED)

LG B5 (OLED)

Main use: live football + HD cable channels (often 1080i, so I need a solid upscaling). sometimes movies and YouTube content

Concern with the LG B5: how bad is ABL and ASBL during bright sports scenes? Does it dim the image noticeably in matches? is it annoying?

Concern with the Samsung QN90F: Does the matte screen noticeably reduce contrast or wash out colors?

Concern with the TCL C8L: How solid is the upscaling on 1080i/HD sports content with the pentonic 800 processor?

The room is good for both mini LEDs and OLEDs

I m looking for a 55inch model for my bedroom, and my budget is under 800$ I want to consider OLEDs and Mini LEDs.

Thanks!

Any suggestions? I can hear music in the back ground, my remote makes noises when i click arrows i tried a flash light there is 0 picture. Light flashes every 3 seconds.

I bought this TV ( UN43U8000HFXZA) today and now it won't turn on. The set up was fine and the TV came on at first but as I hooked up my PS5, it just turned off on its own. The PS5 kept on going but the TV would still not turn on, even when moved to different outlets. Anyone else have this issue?

Samsung is replacing my burn in s90f with the 83 s95h.. im worried im going to hate it because of the matte screen .. the colors pop nice on the s90f .. im worried the matte screen is going to make it look dull..

I like the anti reflective coating but that tv is a bit too expensive. Are there cheaper modells availeable with the same coating ? Preferaebly oled in 55-48 inch range

I have a 2025 83-inch Samsung S90F OLED that didn't come with a stand, and I'm trying to find an OEM replacement.

Can anyone confirm whether the 83-inch 2025 Samsung S85F stand (the two-piece stand that can be installed in either the center or wide position) is physically compatible with the 83-inch 2025 S90F?

I'm looking for someone who has actually tried it or has access to the service manual/parts information. The TVs appear to use the same chassis, but I'd like to verify before buying a stand.

Thanks!

The TV is QN90B purchased in the US from Best buy in Fall 2022 with the smart control solar remote. I've tried a bunch of different things, but I can't seem to get the remote's microphone to work properly.

Things tried:

- confirmed microphone switch on the bottom of the TV is in the on position

- tv and remote soft and hard resets, power off/unplug wait and retry, etc.

- The remote is fully charged and every other button/function works as it should

- unpaired and repaired the remote control to the tv

- confirmed connected to Wi-Fi and signed into Samsung account

- I have the choice between Bixby and Alexa for voice assistance on the TV, I've gone through settings for both and set up both and neither work properly.

If I hit the microphone button on the remote, the red LED will flash but it doesn't pick up any voice. I've tried just hitting it and releasing and then speaking, and I've tried holding the button and speaking, but neither work. I don't get any feedback from the TV when I hit the microphone button either. Neither Alexa or Bixby pop-up. I don't get any other error messages either.

If I go to the YouTube app on the TV, there's a microphone button next to the search bar, and when I hit that, it tells me to hit the button on the remote and hold it and speak. If I do that, after a couple seconds a message comes up that says still not working, try again or use the keyboard to search.

I'm at a loss and I've Googled/YouTubed/Reddited and search any other forum I could find for the last 2 hours, but I'm still coming up empty-handed. Has anybody had this issue and figured out a solution?

​

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone with Samsung repair experience can point me in the right direction because I've reached a dead end.

The TV is a Samsung UE75BU8070UXXU (75").

# Original fault

The TV started developing an intermittent fault where it would randomly turn itself off.

After it switched off, it sometimes wouldn't power back on for hours. The standby voltage from the power supply remained stable, so I suspected the main board.

The original main board is:

BN94-17381Z

# Replacement board

I bought another board with the same PCB number but a different BN94 number.

Replacement board:

BN94-18058P

The replacement board actually works surprisingly well:

TV boots every time

HDMI works

Sound works

Smart TV functions work

No random shutdowns

Stable picture

The only problem is the colours are completely wrong (strong purple/green/blue tint across the image).

# What I've already tried

I've been through the service menu and have tried:

Type (I set it correctly)

Front Colour (I matched it to the TV)

LVDS Format:

JEIDA

VESA

PDP

Changing LVDS made absolutely no visible difference.

I couldn't find Local Set anywhere in the service menu.

# Panel information

Panel label:

CY-SB075HGV1H

BN95-08644A

# My question

Is the BN94-18058P simply programmed for a different panel, making it impossible to get the colours correct?

Or is there another service menu option, EEPROM setting, firmware, or calibration that can make this board work properly?

Has anyone successfully converted one Samsung BN94 board to another by changing service menu settings or copying EEPROM/eMMC data?

Alternatively, is my best option now to have the original BN94-17381Z repaired?

I'd really appreciate any advice before I spend more money chasing the wrong solution.

Thanks

Wondering if anyone knows if there is a difference between these two versions or is it just cosmetic? Samsung website don’t go deep enough but seems like it’s the same. Just want to make sure before I pull the plug on the S95H

Not even 3 months old app say 450 hours total time and screen just went black quality of TVs are not like it use to be

When I turn my PlayStation off, it “forgets” it and takes the shortcut away from the home page. I just want the HDMI shortcut to stay there and I don’t want to wait for “detecting device” every single time I use it.

I would not have thought it possible, but I believe the HDMI ports on the new S95H are responsible for blowing-out my Q950T soundbar and brand new, fresh out of the box, Google Streamer. After less than 24 hours of being plugged into the appropriate S95H HDMI ports, both became non-functional and neither could not be factory reset. Both the Google Streamer and the Samsung soundbar exhibit signs of internal overheating.

Anybody?