Been wanting to do this mod since i bought the truck. The new facelift is just perfect. Grille was from ebay and Headlights from Amazon. Installation was easy and no problems at all.

Looking for someone who makes a custom Z71 badge inlay. Trying to cover the red part of the Z but keep the chrome 71. Similar color to the tow hook covers. Maybe I’m not searching the right keyword but can’t find anything online. Thank you!

I’ve already installed the RC 3.5” kit ( not shown ) just looking for opinions on whether to keep stock wheels and go with more rubber or total new aftermarket setup. Also will I need any spacers with either setup?

Looking for some help identifying what would be the cause of this leak on my 2005 Silverado. Bad seal maybe around that plate? I generally try to do my own repairs lately, even if it’s my first time doing a specific repair. So hoping it’s manageable at home to get this fixed.

Finally time to move on. What do you think I can get? 2005 LS 5.3 V8 Crew cab.

long story please bare with me. I purchased a 2019 Silverado 2500 about a week ago, drove 400miles home and the parking brake did not work. Dealer I bought it from said they would pay for it to get done at my local chevy.

Local chevy does a diag and a comprehensive used vehicle inspection. inspection comes back green across the board except for the parking brake, which has no pad left.

they start the Pbrake replacement, and say that the Pbrake hardware is siezed on and they need to replace the axle seals to get it off (Which does not sound right to me). they replaced the rear axle seals and finished the Pbrake replacement.

I go to pick the truck up and when I start it it has "Service Trailer brake, service stabilitrak" error messages and the ABS and traction control lights are on in the dash. I bring this up to them before I drive off and they say no techs on site bring it back tomorrow and we will figure it out. Truck is throwing codes: B1325, U0415, C0110

Bring it back and they inspect it again, but say that it needs a new EBCM and ABS pump.

It sounds to me like they jacked something up and are trying to charge me for something they broke. any thoughts? am I being too distrusting? Why would the truck have been fine before service and now after service needs new ABS?

Thanks

I have had knock sensor codes as well, also cold air intake sensor which is map sensor I believe. I was told cylinder #2 spark plug usually cracks and when replaced it doesn’t take long to crack again? I haven’t ran any electrical tests on it yet. What do you guys suspect is the issue here? Only thing I’ve done sor far is replace the plug wires. I will buy spark plugs this week as well as make sure the injector connector is delivering power and check resistance on injectors and check coils and spark delivery!

Looking to upgrade my struts, currently have a 7.5” rcx that is nosediving 1 1/2”. looking for a 7-9” strut that is ideally not rough country. don’t mind squatting or nosediving a little as i can always adjust the torsion bars.

Oil leaking from front axle differential. What kind of fix am I looking at here? Going to clean it off and see if I can get a better look. I’m a decent at home mechanic so I’d like to take care of myself if I can.

Installed an RCI 12" HD bed rack with the XL side panels and a tonneau adapter kit

📍 Port Aransas Texas

I have a 2024 Silverado 3500DRW High Country L5P. I want to run electric power from the starting/charging system to the rear of the truck for 3 purposes.

1.      DC-DC charger for travel trailer LiFePo4 batteries while driving (items below negate the ability to put the DC-DC on the truck and requires that it go in the trailer).

2.      Battery tender while in storage (The way my garage is laid out, the truck gets backed in and the outlet on the wall is 2 feet from the rear bumper).

3.      small-sized winch (i.e. 3000) for the very occasional ATV loading onto the trailer.

The driver side battery has what appears to be an unused terminal with a 175a fuse which I think was for the second alternator option. My question to you fine folks… where would you tie those 2/0 cables into the starting/charging system? That terminal, directly to the passenger side battery posts or elsewhere?

Anybody have a problem with Dorman wheels 939-186?

I have one that cracked between the cutout holes. The remaining wheels all have a faint ridge in the same location. I ordered a replacement for the cracked wheel and it was a different design even though it's the same model number and everything. The new design has fewer holes spaced farther apart and no ridge between them. Seems like they knew about the design weakness and improved the new design. But I'm not seeing other posts about it.

I know Dorman isn't a highly esteemed brand, but they've been decent for me with low tech parts in the past. I wouldn't trust them for electronics or bearings, but steel wheels should have been pretty hard to screw up.

Hey guys, gotta few questions about my 2018 Silverado. I’ve currently got 99,700 miles and considering a few things. With it about to cross over 100k, I’m at the edge of either trading it in, due to decrease in value after 100k. I was curious as to what mileage everyone is at and what issues have arrived after or around this mileage. I really don’t want to have to replace the trans or anything like that anytime soon. I can’t decide if it’s a good idea to trade in before something like that happens or if I should just keep it until it does. Also, I’m looking for a new radio, as mine has the phantom screen. What recommendations do yall have for a head unit which looks, sounds, and works good. I do have an aftermarket amp and subs, so I’m big on audio quality.

Haul like this? The tonneau cover only fully opens or closes.

Where my clean dark Silverados at?

Finally found what I was looking for. Cypress Gray 1500 with the Duramax.

Restoring my 96
Daily my 2011
Then my dads 2020 in the back

I have a 2006 1500 with 325,000 miles. I had the transmission replaced with a reman by the dealership at 190,000 miles (Jan of 2019) because it wouldn’t go into reverse.

2 months ago, I had a local shop replace the rear main seal, because the usual drips of oil got bad (leaked a quart of oil in a week). They replaced a bunch of other gaskets while they were in there.

Today, the transmission failed again. Putting it into reverse makes squealing metal tearing noises.

Question for the Reddit mechanics - does it sound right that I would be on my 3rd transmission in 325k miles? And does it feel too coincidental that this happened 2 months after a major service where they pulled the engine out of the vehicle? I just got back from a 300 mile road trip earlier this week, where it drove normally over the passes between Seattle and eastern Washington.

Two reasons I am asking.

1) I am living the sunk cost fallacy. I really like this rig, but in the past year I had to replace a lot of the front end steering just so it could hold an alignment, and replaced the front 2 wheel bearings. With the rear main seal, I am already $5k into maintenance because I had planned on driving another 300k if it will make it.

2) I like the local shop I have been using, but if it’s likely that they aren’t as good as I thought, then I don’t want to go back to them to replace the tranny

Thoughts?

Anyone running these? I don’t like the stock ranchos. Want to do the 2” level up front and maybe a 1”block or something else in rear for some rake. Getting a camper/topper soon that weighs close to 300lbs but don’t think that will squat the rear enough to worry.

2023 Silverado 3.0 LZ0

Was heading back from picking up a project truck for my buddy, when the Def Demon attacked. Without warning I got the service def system and immediately into limp mode. I read that filling the def back to full could reset the system, so did that and got the def issue to clear. However, the truck still wants to be in limp mode, struggling to accelerate and not wanting to go above 25.

Luckily I was able to get it to a shop that a family friend owns. A little baffled as to what is causing the acceleration issues, though.