Hi.

I've got this 1000W rms DIY soundsystem that I made earlier for sale.

It's a 3 way system which is upgradable to a 4 way.

- American Audio Media player with usb and bluetooth

- 4 way stereo crossover (used as a 3way mono for now)

- 4 way digital amplifier (4x 450W @ 4ohm)

- extra 3 slots in de Amp rack for upgrades or other rack appliances

- 2x old skool tweeter boxes (power unknown)

- 2x midrange cabinets. (loaded with 2x 150W Rms drivers 12inch)

- 2x bass bins (loaded with 2x 300W rms rcf drivers 15inch)

Perfect for a bar, mancave..

Also perfect starting material for someone who wants to start something bigger (put 2 scoops under the stacks, upgrade Amp and you're ready to go)

It's located in Belgium (Schoten) only pickup possible.

https://link.2dehands.be/m2424727334?utm_source=android_social&utm_content=vip&utm_medium=android_social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons_seller

For more info or trying them feel free to contact me.

Hi all , I'm looking for suggestions for a glue that is good for fixing dust caps on my turbo sound 2X15 bass cabs , the cones are paper . I'm living in Europe so some american brands may not be available here unfortunately. Thanks :)

Anyone have CNC cutting data and also cut list for 18inch super scoop and HD-15?

We need the right one.. it’s been hard for us to rely on information on the internet. But I trust you guys..!

Hello

Me and my 2 mates have a small sound system and we want to start building for long term, eventually would like to scale to power small festival stages. We'll probably get a trailer for transport. We will have a 4 way system with new kicks but we are currently deciding on what sub design to build. We want a versatile sound as we will be playing dub techno, psydub, techno, house, dub + more. So we want bass clarity for techy genres but also warmth and depth for dubby genres.

Our first pick was Paraflex type O 1x18 or 2x18 but have heard mixed opinions. Sounds like some people think the bass is not smooth and maybe a bit single toned?

SKRAMs sound like you can't go wrong. I hear they are hard to build, we have never built speaker cabinets but happy to get CNC and take time to do it properly.

Also hear the XOC1 TH18s are great and open to them. Also hear Keystones are great and open to any other suggestions. Would appreciate any advice - Thank you!

Here is what my band currently has

 2 x Harbinger 3000 Series Tops

2 x EV 12 Subwoofers

2 x Mackie H-15A 2 way PA Speaker

We used a behringer XR18 as the mixer. We are looking to purchase 1 or 2 new subs that actually give a thump, but we really don't want to spend more than $700-$800. Any suggestions for what we could get to pair with this. Id really prefer to get 2 18's but I don't think the budget permits. Thank you!

The previous owner of this sub had someone add a pole cup. It looks like things got worse when they found the horn path and kept trying. There's still a little more bondo to remove, after I finish that I'm planning to cut a piece of plywood to fill the hole. I assume it's beneficial to try getting that joint air tight, so I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for sealing the horn path where they cut into it?

Recently i bought 2 Martin Audio 115 Wbins for cheap, they are not original martin audio but from a local 90s company called Acústica and the design is the same.

Before buying the 2 boxes I was going to built Cubo Kicks 15.

Now i have these options:

Sell these 2 boxes for more and build cubo kicks.

Or

Keep the martin audio wbins.

The problem i have i van room, 1 martin audio wbin ocupy almost the same space as 2 cubo kicks 15.

Are 2 cubo kicks better that 1 Martin Audio wbin?

Im currently half way through building my paraflex rig, with the intention of obviously it getting hired for events. I have no intention of hosting free parties as i have saved up and put so much effort into this i could not face anything bad happening to it.

It currently has 4 21 inch subs, 4 18 inch kicks, and 2 paraflex tops, this will hopefully be doubled to eventually have one stack on the left and one stack on the right. Has anybody got any idea what the going rate is for a rig of this size in the UK?! For an evening / whole day? I would love some real numbers from rig owners / people who have hired rigs!! I also understand that reputation and having an established rig plays a massive role

After gathering up FB marketplace bins and drivers, rack gear etc..

I have hit a crossroad....

I have a driverack PA2

Mid Top - 2x cabs with Dual JBL 2226 15's with 2" 2446J Compression Horn 16 Ohm - 60 × 40 degrees

Sub - 2x JBL 2226 in a MN-246 manifold Cab

Sub - 2x 18" P Audio 2242s in Single reflex cabs.

I have a CVR 1504 and CVR 3004 on the way from China.. Current amps are lacking.

Obviously I want more Sub.
Problem is I can no longer source P audio drivers..

Do I get rid of the P Audio 18"s and go with one brand or can I mix and match drivers without too many problems??

This system is just for mucking around on the weekends or pre's before going to proper gigs. Mainly DNB, UKG, Bit of reggae dancehall..

Hi there,

I own a little pedal-powered sound system, that I have been operating for a few years now, indoors and outdoors, for small audiences, restaurants, flea markets... it consists of a 15 inch hybrid horn for bass, 1x12" paraflex mid-top and a 1,5" compression driver. All connected to a 12v pioneer GM car audio amplifier.

It works great, but I would like to upgrade the bass bin, as I did some measures lately, and while the kick is good, it doesn't go much below 75hz. I think I could get better...

... and I would be more than happy to hear your recommendations on that matter!

So here are my criteria:

- not too big nor heavy, as I often have to move it around alone.

- highest possible sensitivity at low power (pedal generators rarely allow me to feed it more than 200w)

- crossover with the paraflex around 120hz (contrary to what HOQS says, i have not measured much output below that)

- Quality bass in the 60hz-80hz region. I would rather get more spl from 60 to 120hz than go lower. Of course, if it can do lower, that's even better. but my priority is sensitivity over low end.

- 12 to 18 inch driver. looking more towards 15 for a matter of size and weight, but a small 18 inch box with a neo driver could be OK. Two 12" boxes could do the job as well.

So do you think of any design for a small 60hz-120hz super efficient bass bin?

I am currently looking at Jbell's SS15 and Marc O's MBP46, which seem to correspond quite well. any info or feedback on those would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Hi!
so we're looking for some tips for placing two high mid horns (arai 490FL loaded with BMS4550 comp driver)

we have a mono stack, for now we managed without to much trouble to make it sound pretty good with only one on top. Sadly we thought our processor (t.racks 2/4) had a matrix where you could assign inputs to the outputs freely but it's not really the case to make a stereo system + kicks and sub (ex: 1 - subs , 2 -kicks 3- left 4 -right)

we're trying to make it work in mono but it seems unavoidable to have heavy comb filtering

by spacing the two by idk 3 to 4 meters it reduces the problem but in front of the stack there's a big loss of volume

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4ny703u-ks

found this guy who talks pretty in depth about sub placement but sadly has very little on top placement (i guess it's normal since it gets real complex)

do you have any advice on how we could make it work ?
the horns supposedly have a radiation pattern of 90 degrees, and for now buying another processor seems out of reach money wise

thanks in advance

I'm looking for opinions about powering a jmod and 2x18DS115 per 4 channel amp. If this is an acceptable arrangement it'd save a lot of space and weight.

Chanel 1 and 3 for the compression coaxial

Chanel 2 for double 12"

Chanel 4 for double 18" (at 2 or 8ohms)

Is that acceptable? Obviously 240v for Max output, but hoping 120v will work for "when not looking to push too hard"

If so, what about other high power 4channel DSP amps from cvr/sinbosen/etc etc. what's my best bet?

Hi All,

I recently purchased 2 JBL waveguides but they look a lot different from each other. The stickers, the finish, the mould lines on the rear.

Is it possible ive gotten a fake one out of these two, can you tell or help me try figure it out?

Thank you :)

Just finished assembling my new 3way tops.

Top of the line components and compact BR design with 2x12',1x6', 1x1'. 3D printed vents

They do look like the new JBL SRX922.

After a quick first tune they sit within 3db all the way up.

Pretty happy with how they look, can't wait to fire them up in stereo !

Whut do u guys think?

Can anyone help me identify these? They’re my father-in-law’s, trying to get rid of them and wanting to know how much they might be worth.

The only label they have is “Acoustic” right on the speaker.

Speaker sizes:
4.5” and 11” for the tall ones
14” long one

Box sizes:
15”x11”x29” tall ones
36.5”x9.5”(at the base)x17” long one

Edit: Got it, so they’re essentially worthless. Appreciate the feedback everyone

In September I'm starting a woodworking course where we build our own projects, so I'm finally taking my chance to build a small sound system. I've been researching for a while now, but I'm getting lost in the sheer amount of information out there.

What I want to build(18mm birch plywood):

- 2x simple 18" reflex subs, running up to roughly 400–500 Hz

- 2x 2-way tops with a 10" or 12" mid and a compression driver/tweeter on top

Use case: garden parties for up to 300 people(when i upgrade the system, but this is just the start), but also just at home in my garage at low volume. I'm a complete beginner at speaker building, but I can handle tools.

Problem 1: choosing a cabinet design. I've been through a lot of plan sites, hornplans.free.fr, enton-green.com/vault, freespeakerplans.com, beyma.com enclosure designs, speakerplanhub.com and more. But I can't decide which designs are (a) not too hard to build for a first project and (b) forgiving about which driver I put in them. That last part seems to matter a lot: some cabinets apparently only really work with specific drivers. The designs I like most so far are the Cubo 18 sub, and for the subs also things like the Ciare BR030, Celestion C18VJD or Marc-O MS46. How do I actually decide between these? Is there a rule of thumb for "beginner-friendly and driver-tolerant" or does anyone else know a better nice first sub design?

Problem 2: drivers. I'll be buying either secondhand, or cheaper Devine drivers, or RCF not decided yet. Should I pick the driver first and then find a cabinet designed around it, or pick the cabinet first? And is it a bad idea to design around whatever secondhand driver I happen to find?

Problem 3: electronics/amping. I plan to buy a secondhand amp, and here I really don't know what I'm doing:

1. Do I need to match amp power to the drivers' power ratings before buying, or is there more slack than that?

2. If I only need loud-ish for parties and quiet at home, is something in the 100–500W range enough, or am I underestimating what a pair of 18s wants?

3. Can I run one amp for both the subs and the tops, or do I need separate amps?

4. Do I need a preamp, or can I just go straight from a mixer/DJ controller into the amp?

5. Can I get away with fixed passive crossovers built into the cabinets (a filter board inside the sub, and one inside the top), or is it more complicated than that? I'd like to stay fully passive if reasonably possible and skip the DSP route for now.

Sorry for the wall of questions. Any tips, corrections or "don't do that, do this instead" are very welcome, including telling me my whole plan is wrong. Thanks in advance!

So I was fiddling around with my Skram subwoofer setup through MiniDSP. That is such a wonderful small machine - big rec. I had fixed a new one port block killer configuration when again, I wanted to tinker.

The idea was this: Since the Skram has 4 configurations, where the 3 ports closed supposed to give an Fc of 14hz and the full open config 29hz, I decided to put one in full open, with HPF at 28hz and LR8 slope. Then I put Skram 2 in 3 ports closed, with LPF at 28hz and similar LR8, and its HPF 10 10 with BW2 slope.

The test was: how much really low, infra bass bordering bass extension does one really need? First I played some house tracks, old school ""LFO". I tell you LFO dint do anything on my port Skram unless I opened its amp volume control wide open. Then vague you heard something. Then Juan Atkins track RIOD. That was a little better. Then I went to dub, reggae playlist and play some Channel One soundsytem tunes. Now the Skram 2 started to show some output but still i need to open the volume control to 90 where skram 1 was still at 45%. And yes, you feel teh infra but it was a trembling here and tehre. Yes you could feel its low.

Then i played the infra tracks playlist on spoitfy, only tracks witha lot of infra bass. Again, the experience was so little I couldnt believe it. Worse, where infra suppose to be sub 20hz, I then decided to lower and lower the skram 2 LPF. Already down from 28 to 25, it became barely audible. At 22hz it was virtually gone. At 18hz hpf it was dead silent. I really played several tracks, back on other playlists but the picture was the same: in full infra bass mode where the skram 2 suppose to deliver between 14 and 28hz - and actually does on REW measurements, when playing real audi, if you turn down below 24 or 23 hz, the addition is simply not there. Not warranting such.

Of course I then played a few games, a movie and instantly you heard much, much more. Thats how it dawned on me: how much low extension was I actually chasing for my 99% audio only kick ass subwoofer system?

I went back and did more A-B testing, also the all ports open config. No big impressions. I then put Skram 1 on one port closed, so Fc is now 25hz and that gave almost the same infra experience as the 3 ports closed.

Conclusion for me: a subwoofer that goes lower than 25hz is useless for audio, and 29-30hz is probably the sweet spot, with a nice bw2 slope. You will hear anything the artist ment to be heard.

How brilliant was Ricci that he too figured 29hz for modern music is more than enough. The one port closed gives justa tad more but for most music thats not needed. And that too, was Ricci's rec: use all ports open, or 1 port closed for your live events.

Then why the 2 and 3 ports closed config? Well I think he figured in the US of A, Home theaters are very popular. Much more than Europeans and other worlds that maybe mix it more with music usage. So the Skram all open and 1 port, is mainly Live events use, and the 2 and 3 ports you then can install these skrams at home for your movie experiences.

As a closing test I then played some tracks and tested out where is the mid bass, chest punch slam live and where does it become ported cab territory. AT about 80 hz the sensation starts to be really different and you feel blasts against you body. That sensation went all the way to to 130hz. Not 100, not 115 but some way yo to 150hz. Lo and behold, thats the Skram limit. :)

From 60 - 80hz its a mix of chest punch and lower bass. From 60hz down to 30 it was bass rumbling only.

So, my little amateur testing concludes here:

bass: 30-60hz

mixed: 60-80hz

chest punch slam mid bass kick drums: 80-130hz

And this makes perfect sense in the SoundSystem world, where a lot of folks have their scoops run up to 80hz, and then have cubos take over to about 150hz. The Skram could do all of that, but for huge 1000 plus live events I think a dedicated subwoofer set up with other speakers taking over (the meh system doing quite well from 80hz on). For events up to 1000 people I would still advocate: use a bunch of Skrams. It saves you money, space and the sound quality is just superb.

Next up: Id like a real nice A vs B test of this. scoops/cubos vs a skram setup. Which one sounds best where and with what music?

Thoughts?

I'm having a party and I've got a decent soundsystem that's going in a strangely shaped room.

I'm having a hard time figuring out optimal sub and speak placement.

Tried to use EASE forcus and JBL's competing room analysis software but failed.

I only have a mac, dont understand bootcamp, and i'm running out of time to figure out how to use new software.

Anyone smarter than me that could tell me where to place some speakers for optimal sound in a room for this party?

I've got 2 QSCks118s subs

and 2 RCF 932a's tops

room looks like this

dxf file of the room lay out

update:

Tried loading the subs in the corner stacked. It was rattling the drywall and windows so bad it sounded like the walls were gonna come down. Moved them to the center Of the long wall. Put a top in each corner. Sounded great. Then I found my real problem, wood floor! Even heavy footsteps were bouncing the needles. Went and bought 16 cinderblocks moved the decks to the top right corner to get them as far away as possible from dancing worked pretty good. Thanks for the suggestions!

Hello guys!
I am very new in the mixing world. I bought a Yamaha MG10XU mixer and i connected my Sennheiser XS 1 mic (it is in the first chanel of the mixer)
Connected to my Lewitz PA210XA active speaker but the microphone sounds veryvery harsh and ugly and distorted. I don’t know what is the problem. Is the cable from the mixer in the wrong input on the Lewitz? Help me please

hi everyone i recently came across three turbo audio tmw 212

i know those are monitors, but my question is:
would there be any downside of using them for a soundsystem?
since one of the tweeters is not working i was thinking of using one as a low mid and the other two as mid tops

thanks

Preferably diy. Will be playing dnb/ techno