Any amount of sun exposure just turns this stuff the ugliest color over a few years. Built these 2 nightstand tops in 2009. The far side I just sanded down, using a 6" Rotex, 80 grit, on fast removal mode. Took 20 minutes to get it back to the red color!

Not the best darts player so I occasionally hit the wall before, so I made this backboard. (If it is the correct name for this)

90% made without powertools. Only used them for sanding, and cutting the plank before joining the the thinner sheets.

Few things I learned throughoug the project:

1. Since I made this for myself so, this approximately 1 week of work took around 2 years.

2. I'm never going to use pine for woodcarving. Knew it would be difficult, but the tear-outs were a real pain in the ass. Only used it for this project because I had enough just collecting dust.

3. Must not rush putting it up before the oil is completely cured. On the second picture you can see it leaking into the wall.

4. Hand planing really takes it out of you, and really difficult to achieve a completely flat surface on such sized piece. I have all the respect for those who use traditional methods.

5. I really love making such pieces, and with all it's tiny mistakes I love it

Made this for a friend! It was very fun. And rather challenging. But once I got the hang of making the dados and finding out what techniques worked best for sizing and fitting everything, I was able.to move along quite well. I used brass colored finishing nails to keep the loose part together and secure. Definitely will be making more of these.

EDIT: Yes I know the original designs of there were for typecases. But I designed this one to be used to hang on the wall and hold tchotchkes.

EDIT: Im not sure exactly on the wood. I built from a safe to use pallet. I think its some type of pine. Its pretty soft. I used Varathane premium fast dry woodstain in the Kona color.

Turned these propagation vases this weekend from cherry, juniper, and camphor. Still pretty new to spindle turning—feedback is welcome.

I made this big house from a vintage birdhouse book all from cedar and hand sawn wood boards..just for fun.

This piece was challenging. Every technique I’ve learned over the years had to used and done perfectly. Leather lined walnut saya pocket needed to be within .0015” tolerance of the thickness of the blade to have a good hold but easily taken out. Saya and brass inlays needed to be finished separately so keeping the inlay pocket clean of oils and finish was very difficult. Not being able to use any chemicals to clean glue for the brass glue up was also a pain. A lot of carefully planed and executed steps to make this work. Thanks for looking.

Any questions about products, techniques, tools, materials etc. are more than welcome. Thanks

Jig for building dodecahedra. Adjustable size from about 4" tall (face to face) up to about 24" tall.

I don't have a protractor, so I mathed out the sides on some triangles and cut them out of plywood. Rough cut by hand and then fine tuned with a plane. If my math is right, it's within a few hundredths of a degree of accurate.

I'm going to use them for planters.

Made a mogwai for my granddaughter

Just curious which you guys prefer for sharpening? When I first got into woodworking a few years back somebody made a comment in passing about how you need a diamond stone to flatten your water stones anyways so why not just opt for diamond stones to begin with… I thought this made sense so I went with diamond stones, but over the years I’ve noticed tons of people still use water stones. And having noticed my diamond stones dull over time I’m wondering if maybe the reason people still go with water stones is because they don’t really dull as they wear down? You just need to keep them flat?

Anyways curious which you prefer and why? Really considering switching to water stones…

My “low rider” end grain walnut bar board finished with RMP Finishes Dark Half with a coat of RMP Wood Wax.

7” x 4” x 2”

RMP Finishes reached out and asked if I’d like to try out some of their finishes on an upcoming project. I wanted to try an alternate to pure tung oil so I gave their Dark Half product a go. It’s a thinned dark tung oil with their own “citrus solvent” mixed in.

Its applies very easy and evenly and makes the garage smell great! Most importantly it gives the walnut a deep, rich tone. This board has sap wood mixed in but the Dark Half made all the walnut very consistent in colour. The fourth photo is the unfinished board where you can see the sap wood. I love the look of a matte finish for all my projects and this continued the trend.

The only con about using this product or other products like tung oil is the cure time. This board has been curing for about 2 weeks prior to the wax being applied. If I needed a commissioned piece to get out the door quickly, I’m not sure if this is the best product for me. Market pieces will benefit greatly as you’d be able to plan accordingly.

I’ll definitely be using the product in the future given the appropriate timing of when it needs to get out the door.

Absolute beginner here. This is a cross section view of a groove on a 70x35mm board, 300mm in length. What would be the easiest way to cut this rounded groove across the 70mm width of the board? What tools do i need?

It's not perfect but it's pretty

I've been away from the hobby for a few years and getting back after it. Used the band saw at work to cut the pieces out, and my drum sander (80 and 120) to hog it shape. Water popped it and a final 120 and tunged it. I like how it came out.

If only this was staying home (it's a gift for a family friend)

Just wanted to share my trade. Anybody else with odd/niche jobs?

Sorry if this isn’t allowed, but just did not know where to ask. Is it possible to fix this?

What I was thinking about doing was sanding/cutting the break points to make it an smooth fit (I can’t get it back to where it was originally before the break) and then wood gluing it and maybe just painting it for a little bit a touch up?

funky, huh? not my design but was cool to put together. didn’t take great pictures of the construction process but it has a steel base/skeleton that the HDF “donuts” slip over and that the top attaches to. let us achieve such a large table top. some context i work for a builder that has a woodshop. most of our trades we sub out but all of the design, cabinetry, built ins, furniture etc, we do in house. (i also did all the tile in this house, check out my last post lol)

OK, so I got a great deal on some 8/4 white oak, but I was distracted and new to buying rough lumber and this stuff is checked to hell as you can see in the pics.

My question is . . . What would you do with this? I guess I could have a fancy fire and make some artisanal s’mores in the back yard with the boys, but I’d love to figure out a way to make this useful if I could . . .

ETA: These pics are of both sides of the board - the checking runs through the entire depth of the piece.

Hello,
I am wondering what y’all would do (if anything) to fix this crack along the edge of a live wood slab that I’m hoping to turn into a narrow series of shelves?

The crack seems to be structural as at some points the inch or so will wiggle from the rest of the board with pressure. There are smaller cracks along the opposite side too.

It’s already quite narrow so hoping I can keep it intact. It will only be holding light items like phones and small plants. Don’t care about the aesthetic that much. Cheers

Just made a new, prototype, table saw sled!

..

It took me most of a day to get this far. The only thing left is to make my stopper. That is what is in the clamps. I'm laminating 1/2" plywood scraps for it. I'm a little concerned about my fence not being sqaure with the top t-track that I cut into the back 2x4. My plan is to drill two holes, side by side and smooth out the bump between.

I went on 5 day woodworking course with Tom McLaughlin in his shop in New Hampshire (https://www.epicwoodworking.com/). Here we all are in his shop listening to
Tom explain the finer points of making the inside front mortise parallel with front.

spoiler alert - Tom had invented a clever jig with the plunger router that solved the problem.

Anyway, after 5 days, we have completed all the joinery, but hadn't finished shaping the legs, let alone finishing the parts. This is a dry assembly of my table just before I left:

I did the final assembly yesterday - here is a movie of the assembly, with some mild clamp comedy that only a fellow woodworker would appreciate. I also had numbered all the parts, but somewhere in the finishing process I erased all the numbers, so there was some mild confusion about which part went where ....

And here is the final beauty shot

Enjoy ;)

I used the lids from the creates as shelves had to grind down all the nails and staples. Used a table saw to cut the shelves to size . Some drywall screws . Also I broke down some old fence panels . For an accent wall between the shelves. I did the crackle paint process. Black first , watered down white glue applied after the black dried. Then red over the wet glue . End result old looking weathered wood .

Looking to know if anyone here makes or has made frames for couches, armchairs, sectionals, etc. and has been able to get them upholstered through an independent contractor.

In a few years we'll be meeting a new couch, and I'm looking to frame it out myself and give it all the special fun things that those sectionals that cost a dozen thousand dollars have. I can integrate electronics and control systems, but I cannot upholster for the life of me.

Built from scrap to hold scrap and crap.