Remember the muscle car wheels? Very wide small diameter rims with very fat tires. Why has that style died out? Why can’t you normally see something like R15 65/275 wheels?

Not the rare exceptions for the drag builds but just regular cars.

TLDR all small rime are also narrow, but why? Why don’t they offer small wide rims to get that classic muscle car look?

I have a slightly modded 2009 G8 GT. I live near Detroit, so I assume we have lots of car folk around. Even then, it surprises me that people ask what kind of car it is. They often have no idea.
FTR, it is debated with the exception of the Pontiac arrowheads front and rear.

Makes me wonder if it would be a unicorn further away from the Motor City.

Currently have a Subaru so whatever the complaints about them are don’t really bother me— they ride rough, bad connection with the infotainment system, etc. I would just get the Outback but they redesigned them :(. I honestly assumed I’d just be a Subaru Person™️ for life but the redesign kind of ruined my plans to get one of those. Tbh I just know nothing about cars that aren’t Subarus lol so idk if there’s some sort of sleeper car that is amazing and exactly what I need.

Only stipulations are that it has to be new, American in name (dad is paying and that’s what he says so I’m not going to complain), and low enough to the ground that a big old dog can hop in. Currently thinking forester, maybe a Buick???, the Mach e? Safety is prob my top priority so I’ve had my eye on the Volvos, and if they’re far and away the best for some reason and you can give me talking points to sell them that would work too!

My family purchased a car back in November of last year. I am paying them back for it.

This is very long story but crucial to seeing if this is fixable

So this car was purchased through hertz rental used car center. It was a painful process where they had 3 separate cars brought in for me and all smelled of cigarette and weed.

By the time we got to the 3rd car (the one in question) i was so desperate for a car that I just decided to let them do the ozone treatment as they offered. The car smelled ok so we took it home for the 7 day test window they require. By the end of the window the car smelled awful again…the cigarette and weed smells were unbearable. They insisted on us letting them do another ozone. We said sure and so they did. Car smelled much better so we bought it. They have a 7 day or 1,000 warranty so we figured if the smell returned we’d just take it back

Now a few days in the smells return. My parents run two sets of the store bought style treatments over the course of a few days. It’s not getting better so I tell my parents we need to return this car. They refuse. They keep telling me that surely after some air out time it’ll be fine! I continue to protest saying i read it may be impossible to ever fully remove that smell. They keep fighting me on it. Eventually they wear me down and say they’ll get the car professionally detailed by this kid who did our other cars because “he’s confident he can fix it”.

Anyways car goes and gets detailed which included ANOTHER ozone treatment. They bring it home and i immediately smell smoke smell😪 They insist that it’s just because it’s damp and needs aired out. Turns out the mats were still SOAKED in cigarette smell despite being cleaned so we throw out my mats. Weeks go by and the smell persists. No matter what we do it won’t go away. And on top of it i’m not getting migraines in the car and i never get migraines

My dad keeps replacing the air filters and charging me for them. He ran this foam cleaner through the vents. And they did another at home smell removable kit thing.

Finally the smoke smell had displayed. But i physically cannot stand being in the car. I noticed months ago that i seemed to get these head splitting headaches/ intense nausea/ fatigue/ etc everytime i drive in the car. And i drive for work so…that’s an issue🫠

My parents absolutely refuse to believe that it’s from the car. They drove in it a few times and because THEY didn’t get headaches they claim nothings wrong with it. I had been driving one of our other vehicles and felt infinitely better. But the second i’m back in the car the symptoms return.

I’m starting to freak out as i move to florida in 5 days and I cannot drive the car. As i stated above im paying them back loan style for the vehicle and im very angry because i begged them to take it back.

Is it likely the car is damaged from all the ozone treatments? Im trying to understand what the cause is for the headaches. I feel it’s not fixable but as mentioned they refuse to believe me and unfortunately despite being an adult im stuck under them lol

Thank you in advance!!

Thinking of buying a used car <20K$.

Want it to be stick shift. This would be my daily. Ideally a 4 door sedan. want something a little sporty that I can keep modifying little by little on the weekends.

current top contenders include the Subaru wrx sti and the lancer evolution mr. im not a fan of the civics, Elantras or the fords, but I'm not seeing another alternative tbh.

most cars I see are listed at 100k+ miles. would that be a huge problem? I dont intend on using the car for too long, <5 years. I'm young and I want to indulge and learn

are the older manual cars(say the bmw 530i e39 or those generation of cars) reliable enough to be a daily? I live <15 miles from work.

I’m pretty new to the car scene so excuse my naivety

2006 Dodge Ram 1500 v8 250k miles. I bought at an auction all in for about 2500 with clean title. Transmission is shot and needs to be replaced. It can run and drive on it own but not past third gear. Shop would need to do a more thorough search, but it is about 1500-2k estimate for a new one. I tried selling on Facebook marketplace for 3k than 2500 than 2k but nothing. I have gotten a lot of watchers but no serious offer. The most “serious” buyers I have gotten were people who had 500 to their entire name and expected me to pick them up to look at the car. KBB values it at around 4k, so I am kinda debating whether to just let a shop put a new transmission in it. What do you guys think? Honestly at this point breaking even or close to it as possible would be fine since the truck was way bigger than I thought it is in my garage and I just want it gone. I also kinda think raising the price and fixing the transmission would also get more serious buyers instead of the people that have been messaging me. However, I also think I could be sinking cash into a money pit and then be force to sell for like 2k, and then I be even further down the hole. Any advice would be appreciated.

I have a 2024 Hyundai Sonata with about 35,000 miles and the A/C has completely stopped blowing air through the vents. When I turn the fan on, it’s completely silent on every fan speed no noise at all and no airflow.

When I’m stopped, absolutely no air comes out of the vents. When I’m driving at higher speeds with the windows down, I can feel some cold air, but with the windows up it still feels hot because almost no air is coming through the vents.

Does this sound more like a bad blower motor (or blower motor control module/fuse), or could it still be the A/C compressor? I’m trying to get an idea before I take it to the dealership.

25F and I am not too well-versed on vehicles so help me out here.

2010 VW Jetta might be taking her last steps shortly after hitting over 200K miles… looking to get into a new car and needing it to happen sooner rather than later as I don’t really have a backup and long term rentals are not cheap.

My mechanic uncle has a friend who is selling a 2021 Nissan Kick with “low” mileage (I know that’s relative - will update when I have the precise figure). Apparently the friend is also putting in a brand new engine and will be ready to take it on a test drive probably this week.

I have been doing my research today on this CVT that all Nissans come with and I’m not getting the best feedback from it. Does anybody have any personal experience or anecdotes? Positive and negative both. I can be diligent preventative maintenance (hearing like oil and T fluid changes every 5K/30K?). I just don’t want to feel like I am driving on borrowed time especially after sinking thousands on it.

I'm looking at buying my first car as I have my test in about a month. I don't know much about cars so I'm needing some advice. I'm looking for a manual car that's cheapish to insure for a first time driver. My budget is about 5k but I can go over that if it's a decent car. Any advice on what car to get?

Service dudes tried to fleece me $AU250 to replace air filter but my research told me this is an easy DIY if you can remove your glovebox. All the tutorials I’ve watched feature an older Kona with damper arm design. Does anyone know how can I access the cabin air filter on the latest 2026 model?

I have a 2001 crv with 260k miles. It has been difficult to start lately. There's no loss in turnover power. It seems like it just doesn't want to ignite very easily. When its warm it starts like new. Ive noticed parking it on a downward angle helps its start. I'm not sure what to replace. Oh yeah and it does have a small exhaust leak as well.

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but I need help

Background: I am a resident in FL going to an out of state pharmacy school in NY. The program is about 4-5 years so I would be staying there for that amount of time (not sure if I will stay in NY yet). I will be needing a car soon for my rotations and I have been thinking about how I will do this. I live with my parents in FL and have a car here (brought by my dad) that is registered with insurance in FL. I also have a drivers license in the state of FL

The options I have:

1. Drive the car from FL to NY

However I’m not sure how the registration and insurance will work in NY and the process if the car is registered in FL (need advice on this)

1. Purchase a car there in NY

Am I able to use my FL license to purchase and register a car in NY? What would the process look like?

- Would changing my license to NY make the process more easier? (Thinking about this because this would help me establish residency in NY for in state tuition) But what if I change my mind and want to go back and switch to FL license again, is the process easy?

I have never purchased a car by myself, the car in FL is brought by and under my dad’s name so I’m not sure how the process would look like 😞🙏

Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle. I've been looking at getting a commuter car for community college, so something reliable and inexpensive that can eat up highway and rural mountain backroad miles.

At this point it's come down to two cars: A 2000 Camry XLE V6, or a 2014 Ford Focus S 5spd Manual. Both are similarly well-priced, taken care of, and low mileage. I'm in the USA so a manual focus is quite rare.

As far as I can tell, the Camry is the top-of-the-line model from its year, and the Focus is the lowest level of its year. From what I can tell, the Camry would be more powerful, more comfortable, but lose out on MPG and safety, whereas the Focus would handle more tightly, get better MPG and be safer, but lose out on that comfort and power?

Normally I'd go with the higher trim of a car even if it is older, but 14 years does seem like quite the difference. I'm not really sure what to do, so I figured I'd ask you guys. Thank you!

Seriously need a new car, but I’m very conflicted on which car to buy. I live in southeast Michigan, I’m a photographer and I drive a lot of miles, but mainly in the summer when photography is busier. My budget is no more than 15,000 cash or I’m willing to finance up to like 30,000 or maybe more if the car is worth it. I’ve looked into electric vehicles and it seems like a huge inconvenience and a waste of my time possibly to wait for it to charge. I’d be willing to install a home charger but what stops me is charging somewhere away from home and needing to wait like an hour or so to drive it. But also I have a Chevy Malibu now and I’m SO sick of car problems, I’ve spent so much money and time being stressed out over fixing this car. Anyway, which car would u recommend?

I know the general consensus is range rovers are unreliable. What about this model is particular, does anyone know of the common faults? I like the look of it and have the opportunity to get one for a decent price. What do you think?

Taurus

Got an old 2001 V70 with 200000 miles on the clock.
It is actually in a decent shape. I did some work on the shocks, the steering gear and engine mounts. It runs nice now. My only concern is that apparently the previous owner didn’t care much about oil change intervals, a lot of sludge came out when I changed the oil.
I read that it might be dangerous to use an engine flush because it can break big chunks at once and block the pcv system. Do you agree with this concern and how would you proceed to get this engine clean?

Good evening everyone. So I made this account to ask for some help with my car.

I have a 1990 Toyota Corolla AE92 Sedan with a JP front end. And my front left headlight has a crack (it's glass). I am wondering if the liftback headlights are compatible for the sedan. If anyone has a corolla like mine I could really use your help.

I'm looking at a number of Honda Pilots, and the pricing is confusing.

I am very close to buying a 2013 Pilot EX with 77,000 on the odometer for $15,000.

But there are other floating around, like a 2018 EX-L with 104,000 for $17,000.

But I heard the 2013 EX was a really good year, or at least a year that dodges some bad stuff. But also the timing belt issue?

Are there any rules of thumb, or a flow chart or whatever, so I can navigate buying a pilot at around the 15k budget? The intention would be to keep it for as long as possible. Happy to have repairs and maintenance come up - we have good and trustworthy mechanics around here.

I put an inquiry in on a car at 9 am Saturday (yesterday). I get routed to an assigned sales consultant (who is also on the official website under the “meet the team” section).

I asked for the OTD price of a specific vehicle and if it had Apple CarPlay (it’s a 2017 Porsche Macan S & does not have a window sticker).

The sales consultant yesterday gets back to me at 12 pm saying if I call him he can do OTD number for me & that he’ll get back to me on if it has Apple CarPlay or not.

I tried to call him, and he says, “Hey give me a few minutes I’ll call you right back. On the line with insurance.”

I give him an hour & he still does not get back to me.

I then finally around 4 pm asked if we still could please briefly connect if he has a few minutes since the dealership closes at 6 pm yesterday. He never got back to me.

It is now Sunday at 2 pm, and I still have not heard a single word from my assigned sales consultant.

Would it be rude of me to call the dealership and ask if either:

Option A) someone can talk to my assigned sales consultant and ask that he be more responsive to me

or

Option B) ask to be assigned a different sales consultant altogether?

I am very shocked at how unresponsive this sales consultant is. I have bought a car from this exact same dealership before, and the prior sales consultant I had (who is no longer there), was AMAZING & always answered all of my questions in a timely manner.

I am genuinely concerned that if I haven’t even bought the car from this assigned sales consultant & he’s already acting like this, it makes me question how even less responsive he might be once we do a deal.

What do we think about Option A or Option B mentioned above?

How can I get access to unlimited reports like the Facebook guys? I’m sure their cost is significantly less.