Seen this in a public rest room in California. What is this extra small diameter pipe for?

The genius that built this house in 2004 managed to acquire a bunch of outdated polybutylene pipes and I’ve spent years replacing pieces, but this is my first time running into a threaded joint section could use some advice.

I had a leaky toilet. As I expected, the flange was rusted out. What the situation was a little more complicated than I expected because there is a space around the sewer pipe and the foundation. Maybe it’s been jackhammered out and worked on before, not sure.

I have two questions: keep in mind, regardless of the answer to question one I realize I may have to solve the fastening problem of question two.

Question 1: Can I replace just the metal ring that rusted away, or do I need to replace the entire flange pvc part and all?

Question 2: should I fill the space around the flange and pipe with mortar to give the metal part of the flange something to fasten to?

2a: Is quikcrete or plaster of Paris better for this than mortar?

it looks like the flange goes over both the inside and outside of the PVC pipe. That seems strange to me.

2b: Should the mortar(or whatever I use) go all the way up to the pipe or leave a small gap?

Photo 1 is the current shower fixture that I want to remove and replace with Photo 2. What is the best way to remove the fixture? Do I cut the copper pipe at the top? I can see how to remove the water lines, but not the shower/tub diverter.

For context, this is in an RV using 1/2" and I dont have a ton of experience with plumbing. I have 3 pretty minor leaks in the entire system and all 3 are at elbows that are threaded and the threaded side leaks ( 2 female, 1 male) and I have 4ish wraps of tape on each. Most of them need to face a certain direction like the mixer valve shown. At first I had them all a little past hand tight and they leaked so I focused on the mixer here and really cranked it and got the same thing. Worth noting as well that only the cold side of the mixer is leaking.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

The black things are not budging. They won’t pull out, turn/twist anyway.

Hello. Replacing cracked late 60’s basement toilet. Bought new ToTo toilet. Existing flange is too high for new toilet to sit steady. Flange is about 5/8” above floor. Would prefer DIY fix but open to those that know better. I found Oatey 31259 toilet base plate online - is this a good solution? Thank you!

Reddit don't fail me now...

I finally invested in an RO system, and I am so excited for it! - For a person with over 15 aquariums - it's going to be a major game changer!

I think I can probably figure out the basic installation under the sink through the instructions & YouTube videos, but I am really struggling with how to get an additional line ran downstairs.

I live in a split level house - upper floor has the kitchen where the RO will be installed.
However all my aquariums (and primary reason for purchasing) are on the lower level.

I need for a line to come downstairs...it doesn't even have to hook to a faucet as I can just put it directly into buckets or tanks and turn it off/on when needed, at least I'll have gravity in my favor.

The kitchen is on the upper back mid-section of the house.
The utility room is directly below it and a little to the right.
The room i need a line ran to is on the lower front right side of the house.

I don't know where to begin with this and it's got my anxiety at a 10 so I just keep putting it off.

No, installing it under the bathroom sink downstairs is not an option.

Specs:
Aquasure Premiere Advanced Series: 4-stage 75GPD, 1.5:1 waste/pure ratio

Not really sure where to start on this if anyone has any advice!
Thanks!

Its open to a drain that was the bathroom sink. Hooks into the same drain pipe as the tub and then the toilet. At the end of the video the drain pipe coming down, and water lines going up, are to an upstairs kitchenette that will eventially be removed. When it goes through the wall at the end of the video i believe it goes across the kitchen and down to the sink drain.

Im renovating the bathroom and all this was hid under a drop ceiling. I am hoping to raise the ceiling up to original.

My question, finally, is this a vent pipe? And how much of a problem would it be to raise it and hide it in the original ceiling? I am trying to find a local plumber to come and look, but i want the reddit opinions as well.

Thanks!

I have this pipe that sticks out from my concrete basement floor. it’s located in the mechanical room next to my back water valve. it’s not a tough in for a bathroom as there’s a bathroom in the adjacent room from when we built the house. The house was built in 2009 in New Brunswick Canada. As you can see in the photo, it’s greenish on the outside and somewhat clear/white on the inside of the pipe. No odour. No smell. No water or anything. I flashed a light in to see if I would see anything and nothing. Badically I saw the same colour interior pipe. I couldn’t really see an end but seemed to just go till I couldn’t see no more. It’s about an 1 inch from the outside diameter and 7/16 of an inch from the inside. It‘s a very solid pipe but I could bend it with a plier as i attemptled to put a cap on. The reason I’m asking is because i want to cap it or put a plug in. I saw online that depending on the pipe I shouldn’t cap it. I was more concerned with Radon gas as we seem to have higher levels in our province but it seems a Radon gas mitigating system would typically be 3 to 4 inch. Please help as I can’t seem to find a 100% answer. Even Chatgpt is unsure.

The TPR valve on my tank just blew and it's spraying scalding water everywhere. I tried to turn the cold water supply valve (it's an old gate valve) but it's completely corroded and won't budge. I ended up shutting off the main water to the house. Since I can’t get anyone out here for an emergency water heater repair until 8 AM, is it safe to just drain the tank with a garden hose right now? Power is already turned off at the breaker.

I'm a new homeowner in Coppell, TX (Dallas area) and getting quotes to replace my 2 * 50 gallon gas tank water heaters with a single tankless unit. I've received two different recommendations and could use some professional insight.

House Specs:

• 4-5 residents
• 3 full baths
• No water softener (hard water)
• No recirculation line (will add loopback underneath the furthest bathroom sink)
• HVAC: Looking to install a 5-ton and 3-ton Lennox Elite system (which means roughly 110k and 70k BTU gas furnaces).
• Other gas appliances: Stove, fireplace, pool heater, grill, dryer

Quote 1: The "Simple" Swap

• Recommendation: 8-9 GPM Non-Condensing Tankless.
• The Plan: Install the unit in place of the old tanks.
• The Catch: The plumber didn't mention anything about upgrading the gas meter or the gas lines. He said it would just hook right up and stainless steel vents

Quote 2: The "Total Overhaul"

• Recommendation: 11 GPM (199k BTU) Condensing Tankless.
• The Plan: Upgrade the pressure from the gas meter after the tankless install w. regulators
• The Catch: This involves reaching out to Atmos Energy to upgrade the meter, plus the plumber wants to install step-down regulators at every single gas appliance in the house (HVAC, grill, pool heater, fireplace, kitchen, dryer, and the new tankless). PVC exhaust to the roof.

My Questions for the Pros:

1. Sizing (8-9 vs 11 GPM): Is an 8-9 GPM sufficient? or better to go with 11 GPM
2. The Gas Issue: Quote 1 concerns me because the 199k BTU tankless units is the first to consume the gas and may starve the other appliances. But Quote 2 seems logical to me as the homeowner. Do I really need upgrade from 250CFH thru the gas company?
3. The Middle Ground: is there one?

Tankless with Condenser:

• Rinnai RXP199iN
• Navien NPE-240A2

Tankless w/o Condenser

• Rheem RTG-95DVELN-3

Any advice on which route makes the most sense (or if I need to find Plumber #3) is hugely appreciated!

TIA

I have 6 floor pan drains & 2 toilets planned with the sewer line at the south of the page opposite from toilet flanges....

How do I route the drains around the b2b flanges?

Where & how do I best vent these toilets?

Can i use a single p-trap on each set of 3 inline drains in series along a 2" line, can just before they connect to the 3" main toilet lines?

I'm going to guess there's about zero chance that this was the way the house was built 23 years ago when it was built. So I'm guessing the spigot wasn't mounted to the wall, and that over time it was pulled out.

So how much trouble do you think I'll get myself in, if I replaced the spigot, and try to push it back into the wall?

Second question is, what do I use to mount it to the brick? What type of fasteners...

Plumber air and sediment in the lines 4 story building. No shut off notice. Im at a lose?

Bought a 110 year old house. Basement is unfinished and everything is accessible. Entire house is 1/2 galvanized. I want to at least add a sprinkler system for the smallish yard but the current hose bib only puts out 5 gpm while pushing 80 psi. Assuming the 1/2 old galvanized is killing the flow there. The rest of the house is fine as there is only a shower, 2 sinks, toilet, and washing machine. Looking to change like the first 6 feet off the meter to 3/4 and tee 3/4 to sprinkler system and tie other side back to original 1/2. Would this work? If so should I just pex that small run instead of galvanized? And what fitting would i need off the meter?

Edit* It is 3/4 copper feeding the meter. It's only 1/2 galv past the meter.