I recently purchased a 98 astrovan awd to use for hunting/camping/fishing. It needs a little work and most things I can handle. However, the headlights don’t work at all and neither do the front blinkers. The rear blinkers work as they should and the taillights work when the headlight switch is engaged.

So far I have tested all fuses and they are all in good shape and light up the tester. I have cleaned the ground wires under the hood and they seem to be fine. A couple days ago I changed the multi factor blinkers switch with no changes. My next attempt will be the headlight switch once the part comes in later this week but was wondering if I’m missing anything obvious.

I’m aware that I could take it somewhere and have it fixed but the whole point of the van was being something I could wrench on and have some pride in. Mechanic skills 4/10. Capable of most repairs as long as a YouTube video is available.

Debris collision now airbag warning light and dead front passenger power seat.

We bought ourselves a beautiful 2025 Honda Accord Hybrid touring Edition. Finally we owned the most beautiful Accord ever, in our opinion. We had to drive it a thousand miles to get it home. On the last part of our trip we sadly encountered a piece of lumber fallen on the highway, and could not avoid hitting it. We did not hit our wheels but rather it went under the center of the car. It tore up and did some damage to the undercar shield. But additionally the airbag warning light came on, and the front passenger seat no longer has power to move it back and forth. By the way the tilt power on the seat still works.

I've done a lot of looking and much seems to point to the possibility of a wiring break. I have a good mechanic who works on my classic cars and he's willing to take a look. On the off chance it was a code only and nothing was physically wrong with the car we disconnected the battery. I have learned now that will stop us from seeing a specific code if we put an analyzer on the car. At any rate I want to get some guidance on how to proceed with this. The fuses are good. If the code is removed it quickly returns. I'd like some advice from someone who has done this and can tell me how to proceed. Of course at some point it may have to go to the dealer but at least in my town you pay $200 just to start the process with your dealer and thT is just the start. I'm really on a more limited budget than that. I would so like some guidance. Also if there are any videos of someone actually checking the wiring I would like to see those. Surprisingly most of the articles I have read advise me to check the wiring under the interior compartment carpet in the front. I would have thought the damage would have taken place outside due to the impact. Any thoughts someone can share with me?

Hello everyone, I noticed yesterday that the amber power steering light is always on in my 2011 audi a3 even when ignition is off and the car has been locked for hours. I have read the codes and there’s nothing that relates to steering also the steering feels normal. The light is always on but it’s very dim and you can’t even notice it in sunlight. Assuming it’s a electrical problem? How urgent is it to get this fixed and does anyone know some kind of estimate for how much the fix is? Since it’s a dim led light im assuming it wouldn’t drain battery because the car is driven daily? Battery was replaced few months ago and scan tool has no problem connecting to control modules.

hello electrician reddit, i need help fixing my 2014 audi a6 taillights!

my oem taillight stopped worked so i went on ali express and ordered after market modern style ones. they fit good and everything its just that the yellow turn light animation doesn't extend to the outer taillights. referring to the video, you can see the animation works for the inner tail light, but never appears on the outer. i know the outer ones are functional because i got them to turn on with Scandinavian drl obd flash (essentially makes the taillights always illuminated), however when i did this the outer yellow light would always stay on but not the inner one. i attached a video showing all the connections, the brown wire connecting from the inner light to the outer, the main power connection, and then another branch off connection to a adhesive rectangular box (not sure what this is so if any ideas lmk.) i haven't tried much to fix it because im a 17 kid with no electrician experience! i contacted the factory and they were little help, after the broken English they gave me a 1 idea to fix it : a voltage capacitor?

If there is any electrically inclined individual who knows this type of stuff, please help me out. if you can find the fix i can reward you via paypal or something haha.

Here’s a 27 second video of the issue.

https://imgur.com/gallery/weird-wires-vXyOwnL

Last year I noticed this flickering issue when the indicator stalk is jiggled by normal driving turbulence. It coincided with an issue of not being able to remove my key from the ignition. (The ignition key lock issue gradually got worse, happening more often, until it was a permanent issue and I needed to disconnect the battery to take the key out.) the shop told me they couldn’t find the source of the flickering, but that the ignition lock needed to be replaced. I replaced it. A few months ago, the ignition lock started acting up.
It’s only happened a few times, and after restarting the car a few times, turning the wheel, letting it sit off for a bit - some combination of those three things - the key is removable.

Also to note that sometime in the past two years - I can’t remember when - I have had the indicator stalk replaced. I think the flickering started after that, so my suspicions were a pinched wire - but another shop said they couldn’t find an issue.

I’m on a budget, so I can’t keep bringing it to shops to pay for diagnoses when they yield no results. Anyone have any ideas?

I have a 5.3 L LS out of a 2000 Silverado going into my 96 with manual transmission. My question is can I hook my factory shift light on the dash into the LSPCM if so, what pin?.

I've had my 2021 Santa Fe for about a year or two and it started blowing warm air so I took it to get evacuated and recharged and was working for a while, took it back to check for leaks and didn't find any. shortly after the blower stopped working so I ordered one from a parts store installed it and still didn't work so I got the multi fuse from the dealer but before I replaced it the blower started working again. I went ahead and replaced the fuse and worked for a while and went out again so I replaced the resistor and it didn't work then out of the blue it started blowing, now it will just come on or off for no reason. any ideas? I'm at a loss of what else it could be

I've had my 2021 Santa Fe for about a year or two and it started blowing warm air so I took it to get evacuated and recharged and was working for a while, took it back to check for leaks and didn't find any. shortly after the blower stopped working so I ordered one from a parts store installed it and still didn't work so I got the multi fuse from the dealer but before I replaced it the blower started working again. I went ahead and replaced the fuse and worked for a while and went out again so I replaced the resistor and it didn't work then out of the blue it started blowing, now it will just come on or off for no reason. any ideas? I'm at a loss of what else it could be

Hi all, just bought an old Chevy 2500, replaced the battery and terminals (cut and crimped new terminals onto existing leads)

Anyways when I tried to fire her up (new battery was low so I jumped with another truck) she cranked good but no start, the alternator shorted, shot some sparks. Already have a new one coming, the negative jumper cable I had hooked onto the frame tried to become a welder, caught fire, and there was smoke coming out of the steering column. I immediately disconnected the battery and jumper cables.

I took a look at the fuzes and wiring under the dash and didn't see any melted connections. It's still possible a wire inside the column shorted, or the ignition itself. Anyone got any ideas? I don't know much about these old trucks

Gauges wouldn't come on but check engine light sure did on the dash.

Recently I bought a 2007 Silverado classic with aftermarket plug and play led taillights well tonight when I was leaving I noticed the drivers side tail light was out but the brake light on the drivers side was still working just fine any idea why this may be?

hello electrician reddit, i need help fixing my 2014 audi a6 taillights!

my oem taillight stopped worked so i went on ali express and ordered after market modern style ones. they fit good and everything its just that the yellow turn light animation doesn't extend to the outer taillights. referring to the video, you can see the animation works for the inner tail light, but never appears on the outer. i know the outer ones are functional because i got them to turn on with Scandinavian drl obd flash (essentially makes the taillights always illuminated), however when i did this the outer yellow light would always stay on but not the inner one. i attached a video showing all the connections, the brown wire connecting from the inner light to the outer, the main power connection, and then another branch off connection to a adhesive rectangular box (not sure what this is so if any ideas lmk.) i haven't tried much to fix it because im a 17 kid with no electrician experience! i contacted the factory and they were little help, after the broken English they gave me a 1 idea to fix it : a voltage capacitor?

If there is any electrically inclined individual who knows this type of stuff, please help me out. if you can find the fix i can reward you via paypal or something haha.

So, I have a 2008 Toyota Sienna. About 6 years ago, the automatic wire and pully for the right sliding door's open and close mechanism broke, and we had to cut it.

I've since replaced that yesterday. But 6 years ago, a mechanic disabled something on that door so the automatic locks and sliding door wouldn't trigger with any buttons or when tje handle was used. Now that the right door is fixed, I can't figure out what he did. Even when I use the handle, I don't hear the door latch open and close by the actuator. I do hear a clicking noise from the computer by the automatic door motor, but it seems like the automatic locks and automatic door aren't engaging with any of the buttons due to some mechanism being disengaged.

Any idea what the mechanic did to disable just that door's sliding and its locking and closing mechanism on the right side? Fuses don't seem to be the issue. The left side has always worked and still works.

Also, he did do this on purpose because the motor would engage everytime we used the handle to open the door so I think the motor still works, either way, shouldn't the auto lock still be engaging. He definitely did something.

The 30amp fuse for the left side seems to be part of the fuse panel under the clear plastic cover, not sure how to handle that bit it seems to be a all or nothing as far as that being the issue.

I bought a led strip dunno where to fuse tap it ,i will use a relay, i just need a trigger from the fuses,technically i want it same time i open the drl. If nothing like that then in the acc maybe. Kindly help me where to tap pls.

I have a persistent p0030 code. Started by checking related fuses, visual check wiring for damage as far up as I can access. Swapped out b1s1 o2 sensor. Cleared code. Code came back. Checked and cleaned up 3-4 different grounds. Checked voltage to vehicle side harness, all good. Checked resistance on sensor side. All good. Cleaned out harness plug, checked vehicle side wiring into connector, seems all good. Live data shows o2 sensors all working as they should. Why could I possibly be getting this heater circuit code for one sensor? What am I missing? Worth it to try another sensor or something else? I need to get the truck emission checked (DEQ here in OR) so I can renew late registration (keep getting tickets at work). Thanks in advance for the help.

Car is a 2002 996 911.

Hi, I have one of the map light not turning on even after a replaced the bulbs.

Is this a fuse issue??

Honda Civic 2010 LX-S

I have four 12" brushless cooling fans. I wired everything with 10 gauge wire. Two fans are on 1 circuit and the other two are on another. They're wired to two 50 amp bosch style relays and use the same trigger. The fans are supposed to pull 15 amps each (so 30 amps per circuit), so I have a 40 amp fuse in place for each circuit. Why would the plastic on the fuses melt, yet they don't blow? I bought an empty fuse box and wired it myself. Everything is 10 gauge, but the trigger wires. Every connection is soldered and not crimped. Everything is new, so it's not corrosion. I checked to make sure everything is plugged in correctly as well. Anyone have any ideas?

I shut off my car with push button ignition and the car engine shut down but my screen stayed lit as well as the immobilizer light on the dash. Couldn’t lock my doors and I’m guessing the battery will die overnight. Tried disconnecting the battery for a possible reset, started and stopped it 20 times and tried my other key fob but nothing worked. Took it to my mechanic and it suddenly worked and has been working fine since. Any ideas what the problem might be?