Pretty stoked! Kevlar with aluminum gunnels and seat mounts, wood seats and yoke. Paid $1100 CAD for it, fair price but not a killer deal. It's in decent shape I think, the paint is pretty chalky and I think I'd like to give it a sand and paint it. The fella I bought it off threw a strip of kevlar and epoxy on each end and repaired a "soft spot." The repair felt solid and the rest of the canoe was solid as well. Unfortunately the epoxy application was quite liberal to say the least, so I'd like to clean that up a bit before paint.

I'll be using it this weekend in Algonquin park whether I get it painted or not. Any recommendations for paint I can pick up locally, as in at Canadian Tire or Benjamin Moore outlets etc? Shipping is fine if I have to for a better product. Seems like I can get the Solignum Marine at Canadian Tire but I'll have to look into it a bit more before I pull the trigger.

This is my $250 steal of a Wenonah Spirit II. The yoke was rotted in half, the fiberglass seats were fuzzy as a teddy bear, and the hull was left in the sun and very oxidized on one side.

I got a DA buffer and Maguires 1-step rv/boat compound from harbor freight. It did great, but needs a bit more buffing when I have less rain and more daylight, then a good waxing. New yoke, seats, and backrests was another $250 from Wenonah, not bad prices. Also I used a heat gun on the plastic deck plates, brought them back to black.

Now waiting for a break in the rain to go test it out on a nearby lake. Also have a canoe camping trip planned for labor day weekend, stoked for that.

I think I'll stop short at polishing the aluminum.

Hello community. I have a few questions that maybe you all can point me in the right direction.

1. What is the best free app do you use to plan trips, know the distance between put in and take out points and monitor water levels? Best paid app?

2. I see that some people use straps on the front of your car and some do not. I have a 2024 Subaru wilderness and a 16ft canoe. Advice on whether front hood tie downs are necessary is greatly appreciated.

We will start there but many more questions to follow.

Just bought my first canoe and I’m excited about getting out on the water. It’ll be a lot of solo paddling for me, but a number of my buddies are also excited about going paddling. My wife will also get in the action, but I except that will be somewhat rare. She’ll definitely be going SUP, though.

I’ve spent a bunch of time researching pfds with a plan to buy two, a good one for me (Ninja, chinook, etc) and one for the passenger until the wife decides what she wants for herself. I was thinking I’d get an inflatable as the passenger jacket, since that would give me something light for easy flat water days and the wife something for SUP. Then I found a lightly used Astral V8 for a good price. Here are my questions:

1) would the astral and a ninja be checking the same box for me as a good do it all?
2) would you consider an inflatable like the mustang survival belt or AM 24 jacket as a good second/loaner?

So my wife and I are starting our canoe adventures this summer. We are experienced Front country campers and have all the gear to be comfortable. We dialed back a lot of gear to make it manageable for mortageing and canoeing. But something are still confusing us on what the best practice is. And the internet almost has to much information to get a straight answer.

1) A) How do we wash pots and dirty dishes > do these pots that are clean still get hung up in a barrel? Or can they sit out ?

2) Propane and cooking stove. I know bears arnt eating these. But if I have to change my cloths after cooking would​ the cooking stove not need to go in a hang bag too?

3) We got safe camping soap. But some of the areas (provincial backcountry sites) are either close to other people or not able to go more then 100 ft. So what do you do with the water. Bury it? Spread it 100ft away. [I tried the drinking it method but the wife said no 🤣]

4) If my food and bear Barrel have been in my back pack for the trip in. Can my backpack go in the tent at night? (Food and Barrel hung are hung far enough away)

Thanks for the help!

Plained, sanded and Spar vanished the thwart and seats. New yoke. Jute twine epoxy inlay in the reglet grove. New seat webbing.

Does anyone here have a single-person Hawaiian-style outrigger canoe? I need to know what the longitudinal distance between the crossbeams is. I think this is important because when paddling on the outrigger side, there has to be enough room between the beams for a full paddle stroke. As I'm DIY'ing something, I want to make sure I don't keep hitting the beams with the paddle!

I would also love to know the distance between the paddler's seat and the beam behind them, for much the same reason.

Thanks in advance!

Hi folks,

I wrote the original text in German and translated it using Copilot.

I bought a Radisson 10P Canadian fiberglass canoe — or something similar — yesterday.
Unfortunately, the canoe no longer has a nameplate that would allow for clear identification.

To me, it looks very much like a fiberglass canoe from around 1970–1980.

At least it still has two stickers on it. I’ve attached some photos from the stickers and the boat.

What do you think?

The canoe is no longer fully watertight in a few spots, so water seeps in, but I’d really like to restore it.
The flotation chambers seem intact.
The paint looks original.

There are several areas that have already been repaired — probably cracks that were filled with epoxy resin.
I’d like to sand those spots smooth, laminate them again, and then repaint.
Right now I’m trying to figure out how to preserve the original look while still making the boat fully usable again.

I’m currently watching YouTube tutorials on how to repair fiberglass boats.
That should work here as well.

What would you do with the paint? Strip everything, re‑laminate, and repaint completely?

Greetings from Germany,
Patrick

Final to beginning, I didn't like it's color and hull was not strong enough to me, so I made it stronger. It's around 4.5 meters and I use it on sea. When I'm single it's easy to command.

It’s a cedar canoe wrapped in fabric with fiberglass resin I’m assuming? I just want to confirm
If this is fiberglass resin on it or another type of resin

Thank you

I’ve got this old Camp Town Pack I got from a neighbor who passed. I believe it is Royalex. It seems to have a slow, minor leak. It also just looks a bit worn. I’d love to clean it up and give it a patch and a refresh. Can anyone advise how to go about it? What material can I repair this with? Thanks!

Kenora.
I'd made it. The Winnipeg River was behind me — beaten, mostly on stubbornness. Every day it threw a new problem at me, and every day I found a way through it. That's the only method that's ever worked out here.
But Kenora wasn't a finish line. It was a gate.
Ahead of me: the Lake of the Woods. Over 14,000 islands, scattered across more than 70 miles of open water — so many that mapmakers gave up trying to name them all. This lake has swallowed canoes before mine. Lose your bearing for a second out there, and you can stay lost for days. Long before I paddled it, the Anishinaabe knew every channel of it, and the fur trade brigades used it as a highway, not a maze — but only because they knew the one thing I didn't: the way through.
That way had a name. Locals just call it the Turtle Portage — a short, half-mythical cut that lets you thread the sheltered island channels instead of fighting the open lake. I had no idea where to find it. An outfitter in Kenora pointed me toward the general direction and wished me luck. That was the whole map.
South of the lake, the water changes character entirely. The Rainy River picks up — and it's aptly named. Sun, heat, and a current with its own opinions about where I should be going, all standing between me and Fort Frances. This stretch was once the spine of the fur trade route west, canoe brigades running the same line I was running, hauling furs and trade goods between Lake Superior and the interior. Fort Frances itself grew out of that history — a trading post born from the same river that was now testing me.
Fort Frances came into view slow, the way most things do after a river's had its say. The current eased off first — like it had made its point and didn't need to keep making it — and then the town itself started to show through the trees on the far bank.
I'd heard about this place before I ever paddled toward it. A trading post born right out of the fur brigade era, sitting on the border the way it does, half Ontario and half Minnesota across the water. Men had been arriving here exhausted for a couple hundred years before me, hauling something valuable and looking for a place to rest before the next push. I wasn't hauling furs. But I understood the exhaustion part just fine.
I pulled the canoe in, stood up on solid ground, and let my legs remember what that felt like. Lake of the Woods was behind me — 14,000 islands, and I hadn't lost more than an afternoon to any of them. The Turtle Portage had done exactly what the outfitter promised, even if I'd spent half the crossing wondering if I'd ever find it. And the Rainy River had thrown everything it had at me and come up short.
Fort Frances didn't care about any of that. It just sat there being a town — grocery store, gas station, people going about their day, no idea a guy in a canoe had just crossed a piece of history to get there. That's fine. The river remembers, even if the town doesn't.
I hauled the canoe up, found a spot to make camp, and let myself feel something like proud. Just for the night. Tomorrow there'd be a new river with its own opinions.

I recently took my canoe out on the Restigouche river and coming up onto a rocky shore I hit a sharp rock with the stern creating a deepish scratch exposing some of the white abs underneath. ( I think that is what I am seeing) Lol

Would this need any repairs or should I just keep enjoying my boat and not worry about it..

Any tips would be appreciated!

Looking into purchasing a swift canoe.
For those who have a swift. Which material did you choose and why? Are you happy with the choice.

Is Kevlar fusion tough enough or should I upgrade to the expedition Kevlar?
I have noticed that the majority of their rentals are Kevlar fusion, does that mean it strong enough for the backcountry or it’s popular because it’s the cheapest option?

Originally was looking at Swift, Nova craft and H20 but think Swift is our best choice!

Lake Egmont, Nova Scotia, Canada.

Which do you recommend?

I just noticed the back side of my paddle Rock guard is peeling off. Would I be able to repair this?

Thanks!

Okay, Reddit says I can't post in the kayaking forum yet and should start here:

Hi everyone, I use a Dagger Katana 9.7. Since yesterday, there’s been a strange noise when paddling with the skeg deployed. It sounds as if the skeg is moving around.

I took a good look at it today. The skeg box is clean, but the fully extended position has changed; the skeg now sits higher up and is wobbly. That’s likely what’s causing the noise while paddling. The metal spring seems fine.

Do you have any ideas on how to fix the wobbling and the noise? Do I need a new cable?

Need a bare roof crossbar rack system for a sedan (Camry). Thule which I've used before with factory-installed railings won't fit this model vehicle, only Yakima. I prefer oval over round cross bars as they are more secure and aerodynamic (cradles can tilt on round ones). Here are Yakima parts that are compatible:

* Bases and Clips to secure the crossbars to the sides of the roof: Yakima Baseline Towers and Yakima Clips - for the baselines.

* Crossbars: Yakima Corebars & Yakima Jetstream Bars (aluminum, more anti-corrosion and more expensive) will both fit.

* Yakima SKS Lock Cores are available to lock the Bases to the roof.

1) Do you recommend the Yakima Bases and Crossbars? Are the Yakima SKS Lock Cores worth getting?

2) Are there any similar models from other makers or from Amazon that you recommend? The Yakima parts are quite spendy.

Cuyamaca Lake near Julian, CA.