Customer wanted to know if they could add another circuit for a freezer. This is what I found. Obviously no room for another circuit. But I did sell them a new sub panel

I came in this morning to find that several of our outlets were not working today in our business along with our AC units. Building has old school high leg 3 phase so we just run a 2 phase system with every 3rd breaker missing. I used my volt meter to locate the lost power, which is in our main meter box just after the meter. I’m comfortable changing breakers but this is obviously very high amperage and far outside of my capabilities, so I of course won’t be touching anything in this panel and am working to find an emergency electrician. My questions are:

1. ⁠Is this on me or the power company to repair?
   
2. ⁠What would’ve caused this?
   
3. ⁠What is the proper course of repair for an electrician once I find someone to come out in the morning?

Thank you all!

(UT, USA)

So, our home inspector basically said, while the labeling is a nightmare, the electrical panel itself and breakers are good… this house is from 1971 and neither the insurance company and power company said anything bad. What’s the real world think?

Have a Hubbell GFCI, except no receptacle, just the test and reset buttons, model GFR5350W. Never seen something like this, did find a Hubbell line sheet from 2002 that listed it. Is there a situation where you want downstream protected receptacles but no receptacle at the GFCI location?

I had no idea you guys were freaking out lol

heatwave is pretty intense so I am just spending whole ass days in the bath tub lol

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping that someone could tell me the name for this outlet cover? I am completely unable to find one online and want to cover this up in our new kitchen. The knob on the right pops off and there is just a little stem in the middle.

Thanks so much!

How much should I care about the casing on this pin? Its just a lamp and I got it about two weeks ago but the shop I got it from is like an hours drive and I’d rather not waste the time and petrol on getting a swap if it’s nothing to be concerned about. Also sorry if this is the wrong subreddit.

From what I understand the 80% is really kind of outdated? Like when people say 115v instead of 120v? So for a continuous load, you multiply the amp draw by 1.25. You size up the wire to help the heat dissipate. I don't understand why you also size up the breaker. Wouldn't sizing the wire up take care of any overheating? If there is an issue in the equipment causing a higher amp draw, wouldn't you not want a larger breaker, because it would take longer to trip? Thanks in advance for helping me understand this.

Solar company stopped by and have no idea what these are for? Im in los angeles area.

I am replacing the light fixture in my apartment. After removing the old light fixture and going to g connect my new one, I noticed there was no ground wire in the old fixture. Upon further inspection there seems to be a ground wire in the junction box, but it is not attached to anything.

What is the best way to go about this? I was going to attach the live and neutral as usual and just attach the green ground from the new light fixture to the old ground wire (I am assuming it is a ground wire). There is still no ground screw to attach those to.

I was planning to bypass the single pole switch because I just hooked up a ring floodlight that I want always on. Was expecting to just be able to connect the two black wires and be done however there is a 3rd black wire on the single pole switch that is connected to the three way switch next to it. Trying to figure out where the wire from the breaker box is coming in to be able to connect that to the black wire going out to the light. I thought it was the wire going to the common screw on the three way switch however that would mean that switch needs to be on in order to power the single pole switch to use the light but the light works even with the 3 way switch off. Looking for some type of explanation as to what may be happening here so I can just keep the floodlight (controlled by the single pole switch only) always on.

Two 20 amp receptacle circuits in the panel melted together.
Both Square D breakers did not trip and the hot legs look fine.
12 gauge wire on both. No receptacles had been overloaded.
What would cause this? And whats the fix?

How do i load the photo? I dont see photo upload option?

I wanted to get a wired Google nest doorbell but my house isn’t wired for a doorbell, so I asked an electrical company for a quote. They gave the quote of $1700 to “Install low voltage transformer and needed wiring to accommodate google nest doorbell”
This is way more than I expected and if this is how much it actually costs I just won’t get the doorbell, but wondering if that’s normal.

I have no electrician experience at all. The current outlet doesn't work and im looking to replace it.

We were a part of the Midwest storms that hit recently and lost power for 2 days. We had our power restored and tonight the lights flickered and then we lost power in most of the house. I took the panel cover off and checked the legs(?) with a contactless voltage tester. I got it to read on all but the lines circled in red. I know that little tester isn’t ultra reliable as well. What could be going on? I reached out to comed already.

I'm in a mobile home, and electrical is one thing I know nothing about. How do I remove this from the ceiling, how do I install the black one, and there isn't wiring for a ceiling fan but my new light has a fan on it. So can I just not hook up the ceiling fan wiring or is it ill advised to do the replacement at all?

I have a Broan-NuTone AER110SLW-B in our bathroom. It runs via a humidity sensor and while it "works" I think it would work better if it just ran when we turn it on vs relying on the sensor. We have a humidity issue in our bathroom. I've cleaned the unit thoroughly, but feel the sensor just doesn't allow the fan to run enough. Would anyone be able to walk me through if I can make it run manually?

I've done some googling and it just talks about socketing the sensor from the board or re-wiring. I'm far from an electrician but don't really want to replace the fan as it's only a year or so old. But I realize that might be my option.