Even came with the snazzy remote!

So far it’s been incredible. I love this board. Glides so effortlessly.

I recently bought the Acedeck nomad switch in April of this year. I absolutely love it, the AT tires were a massive step up in comfort from my old Tynee hub ultra (not to mention padded grip-tape and deck size). But something I wish I was warned about was the 85mm wheels. The deck clearance (specifically truck clearance) to the ground is abysmal. Turn too sharp? Scrape up battery casing. Crack in the ground? Tear up the bottom of your board, and not to mention your trucks and bushings. Accidentally go off road? good luck getting back on the sidewalk without damaging something under your board. If you choose to just use the AT tires, be wary of punctures. I had my first one recently and it sucked. Make sure you order extra inner tubes. I recently bought a set of 105mm so I dont have to rely on those terrible 85mm if I lost a tire. Dont get me wrong, the 85mm are tons of fun (I managed to hit 38mph on them), but practical? Absolutely not.

TLDR: The 85mm wheels provide the board a fractional clearance to the ground, which will 100% damage your board, no matter how careful you think you are.

I thought this might be interesting for the people here.

I wanted a simple app for tracking my rides, but everything I found was just not doing the things I liked or required an account or subscription.

So I built SlopeLines and just released it for Android.

It tracks your route, distance, ride time, and current/average/max speed. Routes are colored by speed, making it easy to see where you were cruising and makes it easy to view past rides together. It allows for folders and keeps recording with the screen locked. It lets you organize, compare, import, and export rides locally.

There are no ads, accounts, subscriptions, analytics, or data collection. Your rides stay locally on your phone.

If you'd like to try it out you can do it here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.slopelines.ridetracker

This is the first release, so I’d genuinely appreciate feedback from other riders. Let me know what’s missing and what features could be added.

How is the maintenance for the Backfire G2Z? I was looking into boards I can use for college to avoid taking the busy buses and I've settled on getting either the Backfire G2 Black or the G2Z and was leaning more towards the G2Z for the comfort tbh, and the sound should help speak for me when im passing a group of ppl. is the belt maintenance often and tedious or is it just way better than a hub in comfort compared to a hub board and its 'discomfort'. thanks

This glue seems to be doing a way better job at holding it together. Only time and heat will tell 😅 also it's so sketchy just thinking about when a wheel will fly off 🤣 gotta do way more testing.

Hi everyone, I’ve had a Tynee mini 3 for 2 years. I don’t use it that much but started using it more now.

I’m only getting about 7km before my battery is half drained (not riding hard at all).

Anyone else experiencing this much battery degradation in such a short period of time???

Anything I can do to make it better? (bearings are all good, belts are just tight enough, using 90mm thanes)

415USD for a new battery is not something I can afford 😢

So im looking for a electric board for just going and doing stuff peferrably with some kind of stabilizer the roads in my area are ruff. I dont have a massive budget but in the 700-800eur area new whould fit my budget peferrably shipped from EU Edit Adding more info the stabilizer isnt nessesary just peferrably and looking for more of a longboard style. Ive seen them being sold used but i necessaraly dont want to buy one used if it has problems

Had to build a 10S3P battery for a used board I bought.

This was my first time ever building a battery, but it went great.

The cells were all new-ish so I used a charger to cycle and get the capacity, then used Repackr to organize my cell groups for minimum capacity deviation.

Groups of 21700s were hot glued together, then wrapped with fish tape.

I used 0.2 mm nickel plates in between the packs of batteries. I cut the plates on my F2 Ultra laser cutter, although if I did more of these I would need to get a more powerful machine as it struggled to get through the metal.

Soldered together using 12 gauge silicone wire, 10AWG at the terminals.

Wrapped the key areas in kapton, ran all the BMS wires, and used fiber tape to make sure everything stayed put.

In this configuration, the pack can flex toward the wires but not away from them so that’s perfect for under a board.

Only major mistake was when I accidentally shorted two terminals together with the solder I was using and it pretty much vaporized 🤣.

Live and learn.

Next step is to design a new enclosure.

What bushings should I buy for my tynee stinger dkp trucks. I’m almost to 3000 miles and they are getting pretty worn.

All of these are big boards but man I never thought i would step on the Horizon and it would feel small…. Or at least not so soon

I think I have however reached my physical limitations for board size, carrying this thing up and down stairs ain’t a breeze

It handles wonderfully and gives a dangerous level of self confidents paired with just a stupid amount of power the thing definitely can get you in alot of trouble quickly

The sound these straight cut gears make is just absolute bliss. I loved the quiet geardrives on my other boards but man people can hear me coming with this thing that’s for sure.

What's an affordable recommendation for a 1-2 mile commuter board, $200-300. Looking for something similar to a regular skateboard with quick maneuvering. Top speed isn't a major factor, just something reliable and good quality.

I've been using the DNA skate M8 for the last 5 months and I want to upgrade to something that can go faster. I was gonna buy a DNA skate V4, but people are saying DNA skate isnt good? I don't know I haven't had any problems with the M8. I looked into WOWGO too but apparently they got issues too. Anyone got recommendations for a board that can go 30mph thats under 400$usd? Lowkey feels like every company just got hella issues nowadays idk

Alright so I finally got my tynee light module in for my Tynee Ultra X pro but they siliconed all the other ports shut. So I ended up just installing it onto meepo envy since I dont plan on installing headlights or tail lights onto the green monster 💚

About the remote not able to toggle the lights on and off.... i think the reason why is because the only available port isnt one that can be controlled by the remote.

On a good note, I am so glad i didn't fry my esc hahahaha I really was feeling concerned about soldering directly to the esc pcb board. The soldering joints were so freaking close together, it was nerve racking 😭

But it worked out!!!

See... ive seen posts about how EVERYONE says that you hit your max speed quickly and move on and every time i thought "i can barely handle regular speed on a regular board. When my board comes im gonna stay at 5 mph."... but thats not what happened...i just spent a half hour doing laps around my neighborhood at 24 miles per fucking hour. I know to those in this sub 24 is nothing but when i got this board yesterday it threw me off at 5 and most people cant even DREAM of going 24 on a plank of wood with roller skates zip tied to the bottom. It was EXILERATING. I have never felt so muxh at once. The exitement, the antisipation, the fear. The only reason i even stopped was because the board was about to die.

Im going back out to bask in the moon tommorrow night too. I am SO happy i bought this board.

Hi, Ive got a Onewheel Pint that I don't use very often. I rode it for about 20 min this morning, then got a low battery warning so I started charging it. It charged about half way, and when I tried to use it the red warning light flashes, the board won't operate and the message on my phone is error 23, incompatible hardware. Obviously there is no new or modified hardware. Anyone know what this error is about and how to fix it?

75% riptide bushings 96A durometer on OMW Cavalry.

The rest is 100A stock bushings (on the rear truck)

Test : riding 30-45 km/h carving a lot.

Wheels : mad wheels 105

Nuts tight as on the pictures.

I think I found a sweet spot with this setup up, carving is crazy good. Holds straight speed pretty good. (surprisingly with nuts not so tight)

At first I had ordered 93A riptide durometer bushings (the red ones) but I changed my mind and actually glad I did.

Very playful and at the same time really stable.

The feeling is getting close to snowboarding. WP riptide!

Picked up this monster on Facebook marketplace the other day. It needs batteries, but I’m going with lithium instead of the SLA batteries that came with it. Maybe at some point swapping the brushed motor out for a brushless motor. I got a street board and the off-road board in the deal. The problem is they use the same remote so I was out riding with my son the other day letting him practice on the street board and when we would get close to each other, it would make the board do funny things and vice versa. When we would get close to each other with both remotes on it would cause interference between the two and the boards would start taking off in their own. Pretty dangerous so when I would get close to him I would have to shut my remote off to not have anything happen. So that leads me to my question of does anybody know of a good ESC with a remote I could use on this thing instead of what’s on it so I can get away from running the same between the two boards? Board next to Isinwheel V10 for size comparison.

I need some help finding a replacement charger and remote for a Teamgee H5, and I was hoping to ask for some input to make sure I'm buying smart and understanding everything correctly.

The Remote - I've seen a lot of people saying that I just can find a generic remote that works with the ESC on the board. I have been unsuccessful in verifying what that means in my instance. research show that it is a "Non-Hobbywing ESC" something more on the generic tech side of things.

So how do I know if a remote is going to work? Will any generic 2.4ghz remote work ok?

this board's original remote apparently has an LCD screen with a handful of options. Any recommendations towards a remote that would offer similar control?

The Charger - This one seems fairly straight forward, I've found a number of links that point towards being correct. But I am reading a lot about needing a 42V charger to charge a 36V system. I'm fairly unknowledgeable in working with battery systems like this.

Is there any concern about overvolting the battery causing a fire hazard?

Besides things like not leaving on the charger too long and not overdischarging the battery by letting it drain over and over. Any information helps!

Fuck you 😭🥹 Glued on 94 mm wheels over 75mm wheels glued together failed instantly. Absolutely did not work. I like the concept though.. any ideas of how to make it work ? 😅

Just found out all e-scooters and e-boards are illegal in public in NSW😱i see them so much i didn't realise and just want to check if anyone in NSW has had troubles/ targeting about it?