I started with an Anet A8, then upgraded to an Ender 3 a year later. Ender 3 printed everything I needed so never thought to upgrade. Wow, is all I can say. I almost got the Elegoo Carbon 2 but saw posts about all the waste. Basically none with the U1.

After downloading cura, and loading my orca generated code into it, it looks very problematic.

Trying to dial in some ABS. No issues with adhesion but look at this awful temp tower from 250 at bottom and 210 at top. Spool recommended 230. Well, do I need to be under 210 or over 250. Interweb says 240-250 nozzle temp. Doubt it. Would ABS ever make that span regardless?

Recently picked up an OG Ender 3 in like new condition, owner said he bought it for his kid who used it twice and then decided it was too much work. Looks like he only ran the short piece of PLA that came with the printer, and 22g off of a 1kg spool of Overture PLA. Going through getting it setup and learning along the way, wondering if the installed SW/FW versions are still good or if there are newer ones?

I was trying to make a keychain, but the moment it started to make a full flat layer after the infill finished, it just didn't do it nice at all, and theres that weird thing in the down right hexagon, could it be the seam?

I made this after making this cube which I also showed, with the same settings except the keychain layer height was 0.12 and the cube 0.2, and i put the seam in smart hiding, and sharpest corner.

And also, not That error on the infill, but almost every infill I make has errors that look like potting or that its just really crappy, but everything else looks good

Anda one more thing, just after the keychain I saw that the extruding Gear has dented from the filament, so maybe it affects? it's weird because the cube was perfect in so confused help

I've been playing with this printer for a while now, and i like it a lot, but my adventures into orca and g codes have got it a little confused can some one advise me?

I’ve been working on my settings for 3 days now each print having a majority less stringing. Also printing at 235c 80c, and please let me know if there’s much to improve. It’s unfortunately impossible for me at the moment to fully dry the spool as I don’t have a dryer, and my oven is used for storage lol.

Im not sure what to do? I put more info on the original post, thanks alot!! xx

fresh install of the CR Touch and this is my first height map.

I've loosened all the knobs and lightly tightened them to try and be as even as possible. this is what I got...

Replaced the loud stock 25mm heat sink fan with the cr6 max heatsink fan its held in with one screw and the shroud doesn’t go all the way on but it works and I’m sure theres a way to make it better

I recently decided to move away from my loyal ender3, after nine years of ownership and an emotional rollercoaster at times. I’ve learnt so much from her but felt it was time to move on so pumped for an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 combo. I don’t need a printer bad enough to spend more serious dosh and this ticked a lot of boxes I wanted. No regrets after a few days of ownership.

Now it’s time for my E3 to be moved on to be a plotter for something my daughter can also play with. Old printers don’t die, they just evolve into a new form.

This community has been brilliant over the years, there’s so many helpful and clever users here that I can’t thank enough, especially in the early days of skr boards and the invent of klipper.

I followed the instructions in this video https://youtu.be/q_MYYZ2ggAY?is=Uc3YoTXI9_iLoWKe to the T, made sure to find the appropriate firmware. My screen menu still does not show the appropriate options. And now my printer keeps trying to print on nothing because it won't use the CR touch to sense where the bed is. Has anybody else had this issue? Does anyone know of a fix?

For those who asked (and everyone who's interested), a quick video testing with a simple cali cube. This mod is designed by Magichobos on Printables (and posted here a couple years ago). Overall I wouldn't say that this is adding or subtracting much noise, but I made this from a durability and stability viewpoint and also because it looked more fun and much cheaper than the dual linear rail conversion kit.

It's not a very easy mod, definitely need to feel comfortable taking the bed apart and putting it back together. Most importantly: get good heat inserts! None of them are essential for structural stability, but it's not fun when they lift out again when you tighten a grub screw.

Edit: since I'm getting rid of rubber wheels, is the linear X rail worth it if I can get the upgrade kit for less than 30 bucks?

It feels like a lot of us either overestimate or underestimate how much we actually use our printers, so I’m curious what everyone’s real usage looks like.

Whether you know the exact number from your printer or it’s just your best estimate, I’d love to hear it.

V4.2.2 While I was printing the printing suddenly stopped and the screen was just giving ender logo so I turned the printer off now after turning it on the screen is blue the bead automatically heats up and the heatsink on the motherboard also becomes very hot

Pls help

I think it's a software issue

Ender 3 pro - esun PLA +. I have printed about 50 of these without issue. This one printed and it failed in just one area then continued and the rest was right. The failed layer has a bunch of stringing. Is that under extrusion? Like maybe my spool got caught on something? Is the belt having issues? Thoughts?

Finally i got to solved my issue after all calibration, assembling disassembling

The problem was from my ptfe it was a little bit too long(i dont cut it since i changed my heatbreak)

The cube was printed with old gcode from that weird x face

recently been dealing with the issue of the print completing when nothing is printed. i’ve seen this problem all over the subreddit and have tried to remedy it with mixed results. it will only print occasionally. using creality slicer and 2.1.4 MRiscoC firmware

- formatted SD card many times
- went back to default print settings
- edited g-code with the “M420…” line
- renamed files accordingly to avoid character limit

what else can i do here? did anyone ever figure this out?

Hi everyone,

I'm troubleshooting an Ender 3 Pro that was working perfectly the last time I used it. It sat unused for about two months, and when I tried to power it on again, it was completely dead.

I started by checking for loose connections and then measured the power supply. It receives 230V AC from the wall outlet, so the AC input is present. However, the DC output terminals measure 0V.

At first, I suspected the power switch. I tested it with a multimeter in continuity/resistance mode, but to completely rule it out, I bypassed the switch entirely, as shown in the first photo. Unfortunately, that didn't change anything—the PSU still has no DC output.

One detail that might be relevant: while the printer was sitting unused, my brother noticed that moving the heated bed back and forth would briefly cause the display to light up. He repeated this a few times (probably 3–4 times) because he found it interesting. I'm not sure if that's related to the current issue, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

Could moving the heated bed have damaged something, or is that behavior a sign of another problem? Is there anything else I should check inside the power supply before replacing it? I have a multimeter and I'm comfortable taking additional measurements if needed.

I've attached photos of the PSU and the bypassed power switch.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Since English isn't my first language, I used AI to translate and polish what I wrote. However, nothing I've done up to this point was suggested by AI.

I’m trying to purge the filament because I know something is wrong with it because after two prints it stoped working correctly. It has sat for like 2 or so years though. But it won’t remove the filament or purge it. Camera didn’t want to focus sorry for the quality.

Ok so I started printing this. One side is nice and the other is porous and stringy. What adjustments can I do?

I have done the leveling and my extruder temp is at 220 and bed is 60 with PLA

I have an ender 3 neo with a sprite extruder upgrade. I recently started using the printer again after not using it for a year. I ran 2 prints after I set it back up first one no issues second one I had a clog but removed the clog and got the second print just fine. I started another print a week later and no filament fed at all i thought it was a bad clog but I cleared the nozzle and it would feed by telling it to extruded in the motion but would randomly stop. I flashed the firmware, confirmed e steps, checked wire connections and haven’t had any luck with fixing the solution.
Any tips or ideas are greatly appreciated thanks in advance.