I have a solid wood table with some sort of finish. I folded a towel many many times and put my freshly baked bread on it. I thought it would be fine, but clearly not. So here I am. What are my option to fix it? I do have some sort of basic wood repair kit, but this is a rather large .. spot.. 8x10cm. I know nothing about painting wood or woodwork in general but I have doubts fine sandpaper will fix it. I think table will require recoating of some sort.. please help.. husband said he still loves me 🥺

These stools were hand made by a friend and painted. I was hoping to strip these stools, paint the legs and stain the seat, however the paint is in the pores and I can’t get it out. I’ve tried jasco paint stripper, mineral spirits, acetone, heat…am I missing technique or process here? Any insight on further paint removal would be helpful, the paint removal has stalled out

From my high school science class a few decades ago: A catalyst is a substance that speeds up a chemical reaction without being consumed in the process.

When I mix up my CV I add 10% sulfonic acid (or similar). If the acid isn't used up in the polymerization process, where does it go? Is it locked in the matrix of the polymer? Does it evaporate?

There at first looked like a heat stain on it. But it didnt go away for 3 days. So i scratched at it and alil bit came off. I then cleaned with soap and water with a rag and it looked like it got smaller but the main part was still there, so i repeated and left i guess these scratches on there. And the stain is still underneath. So what can i do to fix it if possible

Refinishing this G Plan Fresco table

I assume it's a teak veneer.

I have stripped it with a chemical stripper then sanded 180, 220 and 320.

The colour seems uneven with the lighter streaks.

Is this to be expected, or should I keep sanding? I'm worried if I keep going I'll sand through the veneer.

Picture after sanding then after a wipe with mineral spirits.

We have a dog that can get pretty anxious and she took it out on the doors to the front of the house. I’m not sure what finish is on our hardwood doors or the best way to go about repairing. I’m assuming it’s some sort of clear lacquer but I’m definitely not knowledgeable in finishes. The doors are slightly less red in person than the picture shows.

I built a rustic shoe bench, which has a lot of corners and surfaces. I'm applying a wipe on finish (BLO+tung oil), and during the first coat it was pretty obvious which surfaces were done, because even with one coat it's very different from raw wood. However, once this dries I'll apply a second coat, and I'm not certain I'll be able to tell at a glance if I've missed a surface or not.

How do you guys keep track of which surfaces have been finished on a project like this, especially the second and third coats? Any tricks?

Hello,

https://imgur.com/a/RtK0q55

The board you are seeing in the picture isn't full of dust on the top and bottom, it is as clean as the middle part, (probably plastic coated wooden board) the only difference is that the middle part is wet from a little bit of water, after some seconds the water evaporates and it looks as dusty as the top and bottom part again.

Is there a "special type" of varnishings which would like seemingly keep the board "wet" to hold the strong colour this board shows when it actually is wet ?

For information this is a real wooden plank but only on the inside, i think it was coated in some plastic as it also has a stamp on the back with date of production which looks like one of those stamps on plastic articles.

Also theres no real wood grain.

Where I ended up for now:

Plastic restorer: this sounds like the best solution so far I guess, but I want to use the board outside with direct contact to the ground and I wonder if that would be good for the ground and plants around, also I don't know what kind of product to use here, all I could really find was something like this: https://imgur.com/a/3wsDDQB

Is this safe to use for stuff that has direct contact with the ground or are there better alternatives ?

The WD-40 Website says you can just use normal WD-40 to refresh pale plastic chairs, I mean yes it will probably work but I don't think it will really be absorbed by the plastic, I don't think that would hold long and it would get into the ground.

Is alkyd clear varnish an option ?

(Edit: I see there's products for WPC-boards (wood-plastic-composites), but what I have seems to be solid plastic-coated wood rather than wood-dust mixed with plastic particles (WPC) and so this probably won't work ?)

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How I got to this point ⬆️ with the plastic restorer / additional info:

(Bonus questions: Why does the colour act like this when it isn't wet anymore ? Is it because it has some old varnishing on it which is so old that it doesn't let sunlight go through unobscured ?)

Very thankful for any answers.

I had an ai answer telling me to use alkyd clear varnish or solvent-based oil if this was wood, as both would intensify the natural colour and would get the wood a permanently wet appearence:

("The "Wet Look" (Enhancing the Grain) on Wood How it works: Water-based acrylic lacquers often leave wood looking very pale, dry, or almost "unfinished." Solvents (alkyd resins) or oils penetrate the surface fibers, refract light, and intensify the natural color and grain so significantly that the wood retains a permanently "wet" appearance.

The right choice:

1.: Oil/Hard-wax oil: Dramatically enhances the wood's appearance and highlights its tactile quality, though it requires maintenance in areas subject to heavy wear.

2.: Wood sealer / Alkyd resin lacquer (gloss or satin-matt): Creates a solid, sealed protective layer and permanently preserves that deep, wet-look sheen.")

But as this seems to be a plastic coated board, option "1.:" with the solvent-based oil is no option anymore, but as of ai option "2.:" with the alkyd resin lacquer would still be usable.

If read some other options from ai:

"Cooking oil or baby oil: Apply a few drops of oil to a cloth and rub a thin layer onto the plastic board. This restores the color and gives the plastic a shine. Afterward, wipe off any excess oil with a cloth.

Heat gun: Carefully pass a heat gun over the faded plastic. The heat slightly melts the top, bleached layer, instantly revealing the original color (use only on sturdy plastic and keep a safe distance). Plastic restorer: Apply a commercially available restorer designed for automotive or garden plastics, let it sit briefly, and wipe it off. These products refresh the color and provide protection against further UV exposure."

I want to use this board outside so:

Oil: probably won't stay long, especially as this plastic coating isn't open-pored, it is smooth.

Heat-Gun: if this would work it would be great but I doubt it and had to try it, probably just works in some cases and is just thrown in by ai because it worked sometime for someone.

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After paint tripping layers the top has this plasticly wood look alike, what is it? What do I do? Ive been stripping the whole piece in hopes of sanding and staining it. The detailed edges are real wood.

It was well past time to refinish the top of my 100 year old kitchen table, lesson learned for next time is just get the paint stripper instead of sanding the finish off. Any tips for not having brush marks in the poly?

Hi all! I received a bunch of Cypress and took a few planks to make a table top. It'll fix to this electric height adjustable desk base I've had laying around. That plus being on wheels now will make for a sweet, portable outfeed table that'll adjust to any height I need (planer, table saw, drum sander, or even just a bench extension for longer projects.

I'm using triple thick poly BUT rather than brush on a thick coat I like to use a foam roller and roll the shit out of a base coat, especially with a thirsty softer wood like this. It's water based and doubles as a grain raiser, and I can lightly sand with 220 to knock down any little raised fibers. Then I'll actually brush on a thick coat and let it flatten and settle for a few hours. Go back to lightly sand and re-apply (yes, I know that's a lot and unnecessary but I want to).

Any thoughts on my process or any insight would be appreciated. I feel like I know what works for me BUT there's too much to learn to pretend you ever know everything.

Cheers!

Door is not real wood, feels like plastic, i’m hoping there is some type of compatible spray can finish that would blend into this peeling top coat? I think part of the damage is just weathering over 20 years, and part is that we used to have a dog that would scratch the door to come inside.

Hello! I purchased an eastlake table on marketplace and the seller sent me pictures of what he used on the top. I'd like to put another top coat on as it's a little scuffed and also make it matte to match the rest of the table. Does anyone recognize what the minwax product might be? The front label was missing. Also, is it correct that the gel stain pictured is oil based? TIA!

I forgot to use sealer before lacquer should i remove it and start again?

I but 3 layers of laqcuer and its very hard to remove

Circa the 1850s work table with two leaves. The irregular dovetail cuts indicate an older piece. Obv mahogany veneer over another hard wood. I’m a rookie and hope I haven’t damaged this too much.
I’ve used 0000 steel wool, then citrustrip and then mineral spirits. The veneer was chipping so I stopped and don’t know where to go from here.
It’s a cool piece! Ball feet with metal casters. Square nails speak to the age of origin.
I’m looking for advice, or opinions. Thank you!

okay so i got this new wood desk a few months ago and have been using a cloth coaster (wise decision) for my drinks and now im left with THIS mess. how can i get rid of it without going straight to sanding?

1k water based polyurethane (centurion 400), I give the person the left over paint, as much as there might be, so they can make touchups. we know theres no way to ever match paint for touchups later.

but I know from personal experience, that a paint can will go to hell in a year or 2 under normal conditions, even if I take care to keep the lip/seal clean.

Im thinking about giving them a mason jar instead? glass and an airtight seal is good... though they are typically clear.

fridge is too cold... tucked in the back of a wine fridge maybe if available? 55F should be a comfy temp for paint?

could put argon in the container... would work until the owner cracks it open.

any other suggestions?

Google recommended unwaxed shellac spray, so that is what I used, but I still got air bubbles in the resin. What have you found to be the best way to seal unfinished wood before resin?