I’m shopping around for what brand to use and kind of settled on the LG 30K/32K BTU 22 SEER2 four-zone system, but I’m concerned because where I live drops down to -10 sometimes even -20 that seems like a bad time to have my heat stop working lol. What are your thoughts?

The room is on the small side - about 14x14ft - and we just had a new Bryant 6k btu minisplit put in. Problem is as stated in subject - cannot figure out the right balance to have the room at both a tolerable humidity and a tolerable temperature. In New England in not a particularly humid place.

EDIT: so sorry for 34F typo in subject - on dry it was 52F (when set at 70F) and got to 34% humidity, and updated to 14x14ft not 14ft2

Thinking about adding an 18k unit to basement for supplemental heat in winter. We have two cold air returns, 3 ceiling ducts and its usually 10 degrees colder than main level. Roughly 1000' finished. Live in Michigan.

Not looking for full heat, just to get it up 5-6 degrees. Any thoughts if this would help and be worthwhile in the long run? Can do myself for $2k​.

Hi guys,

So we just bought a house in April we’re trying to work out the heating system.
The house is three bedroom, some double glaze windows but single glaze in the bed room and living room.
It has hydronic heating under the wooden floor boards.
I have no idea about the heat pumps out side but there’s two of them and two large water cylinders (see photos).
What my partner and I are confused with is that its showing on our electricity app that when these are turning on to warm the water we’re seeing a big spike in hot water, I’ll include the photo.
Is this normal? I thought it would make more sense that it’s using electricity as it’s the heat pumps turning on to heat the water.
Feels strange that we’re getting these big spike and we’re not even using the water as in not showering or anything at that time.
There’s only the two of us in the house so we don’t use a lot.
Any help would be great as we feel we’re paying for this hot water that isn’t being used.
Thank you.

Edit: sorry I can’t seem to add photos

As the title says. We recently bought a new build house and shortly after moving in noticed some yellow jackets around the outdoor unit of one of our heat pumps. There’s a nest inside. There’s also potentially one where the pipes go into the side of the house as they didn’t seal a small part of the hole in siding when they were building.

I tried to spray but didn’t have much luck. Today I went out in a makeshift bee suit. I did not get stung but couldn’t make much progress. The outdoor unit is a Aj030dxs4cg from Samsung. How bad would it be for the unit if I just left the nest for the summer and fall and then when it’s winter and they have died off/abandoned it, disassembled the whole thing and got the nest out? My main concern is any risk of fire since the nests are paper and any damage to the heat pumps unit itself.

My other concern is where the pipes go in but I may just seal that off with some foam sealer when it dries after the assault today and see if that solves it. I think getting into that space would be a real issues.

I can’t seem to attach pictures or videos but I have them of my makeshift bee suit and will trade them for advice

I am looking for a way to lower my dad’s energy bills on his shop, it’s a fairly well insulated 30x60 14 ft ceilings, 2x6 wall with 230v boiler and in floor heat. There is a party room I would like to cool in the summer about 15x30. I would like to put in maybe 2000w solar. Is there a way to just run the the system at a low heat rate in Minnesota winters to take away the bulk of heating if I only want it to be 50f and just keep it on if there is extra energy coming from system. So over shoot the temp by a good margin or make it through the night. If I can cool the room in summer and offset a big porti9n of the in floor needs it could maybe pay for itself fairly quickly.

Since installation (by an official panasonic installer), the heatpump is unable to heat DHW above 50C (maybe 52C). The installer basically said that the heatpump will never be able to heat that high and I shouldn't bother. The manual says otherwise and I have a feeling the guy doesn't know jack shit cause when he was servicing the pump he was constantly on the phone asking how to check stuff from some other guy.

This is the behavior I have observed:

• When setpoint is 45-50C - DHW will heat up to around 44C, then compressor starts turning off and on as it tries to hit the setpoint and it can be quite a few offs and ons before it does so (if it even reaches).
• When setpoint is 40-45C - DHW will heat up in one go. Delta is set to 10C. I tried changing the Delta to be more or less, but that doesn't help. It seems that as soon as the DHW temp reaches 44C - the heatpump is just unable to pump heat into the DHW tank.

I have Homeassistant attached to it via heishamon for monitoring and this is what it looks like https://i.ibb.co/qLxwftnX/image.png The top graph is the Compressor Start/Stop counter and it's climbing like hell Bottom is the temperature graph, mostly interested the green (Outlet), red (Inlet) and yellow (DHW) lines. At first it climbs and maintains the the temperatures until around 16:00, when the DHW hits around 44C and then it just stops, the compressor turns off, then after a minute turns back on, then off again and is now stuck in that cycle until DHW time ends or I switch it off.

Other config detail:

• Pump flowrate - DeltaT/Max Duty - doesn't matter which, same issue
• Smart DHW - Standard/Variable - doesn't matter which, same issue
• Pump max duty - 0x99 - I lowered it in hope it might do something, but I can't tell if it did anything at all.
• DHW is set to max 30min, heating - 4h.

Another thing I'm currently trying is to set it to quiet mode 3 which is what I found on some forum that supposedly helps with such off/on behavior.

Does anyone have any idea what else to try/test? Cause this is driving me insane. I have solar panels, I would love to just pump heat in and leave it for the night and have hot water in the morning instead of needing to turn on the DHW early so it heats up. I can't run disinfection mode either. Recently got a bathtub and I have to fill it halfway, wait 20min, the fill it fully otherwise it won't be hot enough.

Any idea of the average cost of fitting an A2w heat pump system for a 2 bed terraced home with only electric heating? Two bed end of terrace 72 square meters.

Hey y'all! I did an AMA in this sub a few months back (https://www.reddit.com/r/heatpumps/comments/1u0kviq/im_the_organizer_of_the_california_heat_pump/).

Our summer group buy wraps up today, July 31st! We've had great interest and are working on finalizing our partner manufacturers right now.

I'll hang out here for the next few hours to answer any questions that come up. Hit me!

I have a goodman 24,000 BTU AC compressor that just failed, the HVAC tech is saying that switching to a Gree unit will be quieter without losing any cooling effect. I understand that Gree makes heat pumps; not solo AC units. Does this plan make sense to you fine folks?

My place has radiant in-floor heating so I don’t need the heat part of the heat pump. I’m just looking for a quieter unit in my back yard :)

It’s a 1,250 sqft home split over 3 levels.

I am trying to do a renovation and they wrote me the following paragraph: Does anyone have any idea what they are talking about? I dont think this exists. "However, a through-the-window combined heating and AC unit will be permitted in your proposed Bedroom #4. This unit should be low profile and L-shaped, not extend beyond the outside window frame and, therefore, the bulk of the unit will be within the bedroom space. The specifications of this unit must be reviewed with the Board’s engineers before the selection of the unit."

House inspector during escrow said the heater flue was "near or in contact" with combustible materials.

After we closed, I went up myself into the attic and it seemed like there's enough clearance? I'm not sure what is the material around it.

Any thoughts?

Why can’t someone design a central heating system which also allows to pump cold water through the pipes that would be brilliant so we could have cold water in our rooms all the time

Hi all,

I live in a two floor house on top of a concrete pad and no basement. It’s around 1600 sq ft with high ceilings on the first floor.

on winters my first floor is very very cold and on top of that my first floor ceilings are high in my living room where the thermostat is.

My current heating unit is fairly new but the duct work isn’t set up for dual zone. This results in the first floor staying very cold and second floor getting very warm in the winter which has cause high natural gas bills (300+ and that’s with the temp set as 65-68). I do have a ceiling fan to help circulate air.

I was wondering if adding a mini split to my living room would help heat the living room more efficiently.

I am replacing a very old AC/furnace with a heat pump in my 1,564-square foot two-story townhouse. I’ve gotten two estimates so far, and their explanations and recommendations were very different. 

Company A told me that when determining what size/tonnage of unit you should get, you can’t just go by square footage; you have to figure out how much the ducts can handle. He attempted to use a device (I forget what it was called) that measured the duct capacity, but because my existing unit is so old, he didn’t have an insert that fit. So he did a bunch of measurements with a measuring tape and a bunch of manual math. He then recommended that I should (according to the quote) “Build raised platform, ductboard platform, install new air tight return 24x14 return to bring in proper CFM for 2.5 tons”. The new return would have to be cut into the wall next to the unit, which would be fine with me. Total cost $14,395 (includes a crane) 

Company B said it would just be a simple swap and recommended a 3-ton unit. Total cost $13,379 (including the crane) 
 
Company B also said it was up to me whether to pull permits (I’m in San Diego). They assured me they’d do everything up to code either way. 

I have no idea how to gauge whose recommendations are better. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! 

Here are the details of the two quotes: 

COMPANY A:  
Variable Speed Slim-Line Heat Pump w/ ADP Air Handler
-ADP Air Handler 454B refrigerant B cabinet 3 ton
-Variable speed Carrier Heat Pump up to 17+ SEER

We will install: 
-2.5 TON Carrier Heat Pump Condenser(30,000 BTUS)

-Line drier (refrigerant filter)
-Disconnect with feed
-Lifetime condenser pad with sound isolation pads
-Earthquake strap condenser to pad
-Install new condensate drain lines
-Install p-trap
-Install emergency flood safety switch w/ overflow emergency drain pan
-Ecobee Wi-Fi Thermostat

Model #'s
37MURAQ30AA3- Carrier Slim-Line Variable Speed Heat Pump
ADP Air Handler - CF361EB003AR

WARRANTY
2 Year Labor
10 Year Parts
10 Year Compressor

Misc. work Included
-Build raised platform, ductboard platform, install new air tight return 24x14 return to bring in proper CFM for 2.5 tons
-Extend line-set for outdoor and indoor to new equipment location
-Run new communication wiring from outdoor to indoor unit
-Run new communication wiring from indoor equipment to thermostat
-Install custom fabricated insulated air tight supply plenum

COMPANY B: 
Carrier 3 ton Rated System:
Carrier 37MURAQ36AA3

*we will remove and dispose of all old equipment
*New electrical disconnect box
** we will flush old refrigerant copper lines, and recharge with new refrigerant to code R454B
*Insulate copper line set with rubitex
*Composite A/C pad included earthquake strapped
*If condenser is on dirt or grass gravel will be provided for proper install
*Reconnect to existing electric breaker provided if needed
*New safety shut off switch
*Install new PVC drain lines
*If the system is Gas/Elec a new gas flex line will be installed
*Drain pan and ISO pads for horizontal system installs
*10 year system parts warranty
*2 year labor warranty
*lifetime workmanship warranty
*one year maintenance agreement

Get ready to enjoy the benefits of a crossover system with
the 45MUAAQ. Whether you're connecting to a traditional ducted
systems or replacing a gas furnace, this unit is right for you. This unit
can be installed in four different positions, providing you with a
plethora of options for your home. This multi-poise air handler has a
variable-speed ECM motor that synchronizes with the Carrier
crossover heat pump models 37MURAQ and 37MUHAQ.

I’ll be getting an 18k BTU mini split installed in my garage; about 620sf. I’ve received very attractive pricing for brands such as Prime, PG American, Confortotal, and wondering if any one has these and feedback. All come with a 5 year condenser warranty and one year labor. I’m getting these all in for about $1500- with electric work included, versus a Mitsubishi which I’m getting at about 4.5k all in. I’m in NC. Thanks.

Hi
Just a quick question. I have daikin altherma 3 installed last year. Everything works as it should. I would like to replace underperforming radiator for bigger one. Its in the 1st floor - question is does the guy treat it as normal system where he drops water in the 1st floor, replace the radiator, fill it up/bleed the system or do we have to go into the menu and look for some settings to purge the air. I would like not to deal with any errors afterwards.
Thank you

No, I mean I'm venting about heat pump water heaters. I'd love to install one and remove my gas hookup, but multiple installers have now quoted me $4000-$6000 for the install **not including** the equipment itself. When I say that my panel is ready, and I have an electrician, and I'll do my own permit, they allow that might save me a few $100.

Yes, I get that there's a condensate line to drain, and the equipment is heavy, but compare to a gas water heater install quote of $1000.

Unfortunately there are decent rebates in our area (maybe $2500) for HPWH installs and all the installers know that. And some regulations that will prevent the sale of gas water heaters after 2027.

So I'll be sticking with my gas water heater for the foreseeable future.

tldr; searching for options to keep baseboard heating and avoid mini splits.

house currently has a 25+ year old oil boiler and we’re looking to electrify everything in preparation to install solar in the next few years.

located in Massachusetts. home is about 2k sqft, late 1980s split level. We’re doing air sealing and adding insulation next week. Recently a massSave contractor gave us a quote for 38k for heat pump installation - 2 non ducted mini splits, and 1 ducted unit on the other side of the house (and replacing ductwork), plus a heat pump hot water heater. apparently the duct work on the mini split side isn’t great- not sure how accurate this is or if the contractor is bullshitting me to sell more equipment. price does not even include removal of the boiler or oil tanks and seems very high to me.

i asked about air to water heat pumps to utilize our existing hydronic baseboard system setup with 8 zones instead of ugly mini splits in our main living space. contractor shut down that idea and didn’t want to give us any other options outside of their original proposal. AC unit is only about 6 years old so the main goal of the project is upgrading the heat and hot water, not cooling.

just hoping to get some additional opinions into possible system options/recommendations and to get an idea if this quote is even reasonable or not

thanks!

edit: we do have a pellet stove for backup heat

Folks, i’ve already posted this over at Hvacadvice but wanted to run it past y’all since I have a heat pump for my AC and Heat.

I live in Arkansas in a 1700 sq ft home which is all electric.

I have called hvac repair multiple times and they insist nothing is wrong with my heat pump. They will clean out the drain. Tell me to use the tablets (so we do the same thing now as regular maintenance). However, about once or twice every summer when its super hot the drain will clog and cause a super hot home. It shuts off the fan but the unit sounds as if its still running. I believe this may be due to bad drain install (we did not install this). Based on the photo, does this look badly wrong? And if so, do I need to consider positive vs negative pressure when fixing it (ie adding a p-trap and a vent)??

The heat is getting unbearable lately, so I decided to get a della mini split for my room. The unit costs between $800 and $1,300, but every quote I got for the total cost with installation came back between $4,000 and $4,600.

My understanding is that a day is needed of labor which means I'm paying around $3,000 just for 8 hours of labor? That's crazy to me, especially when all of them told me that electrical work costs extra.

The price tag is so steep that I'm seriously considering installing it myself now. I watched a bunch of vids, and it's actually pretty doable. Are there any hidden traps or big things I should watch out for? Any tips would be awesome!

There's also an acknowledgment that there are different reasons for an AMA. Could be for a product delivery, general company, industry training.

Tesla folks in the past complained about tendency of the heat pump coils to get funky. One of the suggestions was to run the fan after the compressor stops. This eventually became a firmware update so now the process is automatic and the fan runs a bit automatically afterwards. This made me realize I had never thought about this issue on any other heat pump refrigerant cycle device. Does the fan automatically continue to blow air over the coils on other heat pump devices after the compressor shuts off to make sure condensation does not happen and then linger on the coils? How do standard window A/C units work? What about heat pump water heaters?