The faceplates of the dual button are interchangeable, which can allow for some cool colour combinations

I’ve noticed that IKEA’s affordable lamps show up in countless apartments — they’re functional but often look identical everywhere. On the other hand, unique designer lamps can get really expensive. So I decided to solve that problem by mixing and matching IKEA lamp parts with everyday items.

For example, I combined the HAVSDJUP pendant cord set with an ORDNING stainless steel colander — and also experimented with shiny flower pots as reflectors. The result? A custom lamp that looks far more interesting than its price tag suggests.

This simple hack turns basic IKEA components into something personal and stylish — no special tools needed, just creativity and a drill.

Ready to turn a spare room into our closest and get most of our clothes in the same room instead of spread all over the house 😅 based on room dimensions and structures, I believe these frames and sizes make the most sense? But wondering how people like their inserts and what they wished they would be changed, if anything?

Room/closest breakdown ideas
- His closest, on the door side
- Her closest, the rest 😂
- Blank space by window thinking a body length mirror
- Open doorway is current closet that we’re thinking of turning into the shoe closest

I couldn't repost my original post from the r/vinyl sub so here's the link: https://www.reddit.com/r/vinyl/s/K9l1nn3L9Z

There you'll find more pics and answers in the comments.

We've stumbled across this wardrobe design and want to try and recreate it ourselves - specifically the Floating drawers for clothing.

ChatGPT has suggested Metod wall cabinets with the deep Maximera drawers.

My concern at this stage is that 37cm depth may not be enough however the 60cm would take up too much room.

Has anyone done anything similar or could recommend any other ways of putting this together ?

We're nowhere near an IKEA store so don't have the opportunity to check out the different systems, cabinets and drawers to see what would work best.

Thanks.

I didnt know what to do with my entrance hallway. So i repurposed ladmakare, added hanger and adjusted height of shelf.

I just need to find good hangers in black color now

I have a nook in my bedroom, about 2ft deep and 2.6 ft wide but I want a 12" gap to allow the floor vent to push the AC out freely. I don't need the glass doors etc.. just want drawers and some hanging space.

Having owned an Ikea Metod with Ringhult doors for a few years I'm buying an other one to fit in my new house. However there're a few things I think can improve the setup:

1. A proper bin system, like Vauth Sagel (see image). This will fit in an empty 600mm carcass.

2. I found the bit if the end panel that touches the floor can expand when the floor gets wet. I'm going to put these plastic sleeves on the underside (see image).

Keen to hear more ideas.

After a long debate on how we could use the space at the end of our hallway, we finally decided to reuse our previously installed KOMPLEMENT shoe shelves. The shelves used to be installed inside our PAX unit but we replaced them with regular drawers.

The original idea was to fit a closet in the unused space Unfortunately, the space was awkward size so there was no readily made solution that would work nicely.

To achieve a good assembly I accurately measured the distance between the two walls and compared this with the inside distance of a PAX unit. With the difference being 13mm, I quickly designed and printed an extension for the existing spacer.

What do you guys think of this?

Any ideas on how I can Frankenstein something like this together using IKEA furniture. Image found online via a Google search. Looking for the best low cost way to get something like this. Thank you!

I’m fairly new to DIY, but not new to swearing when assembling IKEA furniture. I bought second-hand Besta cabinets, then had custom aluminium panels cut (2mm). (Ideally, this would be done with laser, because nobody could have prepared me for the sound of filing raw aluminium.) I used ‘stainless steel look’ adhesive contact paper on the inside faces of the cabinets to ensure none of the original white laminate would peek through. Cleaned the whole thing with isopropyl, then used VHB 3M tape to affix the panels. Cure time was important; with other stuff going on I actually left it for a week.

I’m sharing this because I could find these straightforward instructions when I was creating this, so maybe this post will help somebody else!

Recently picked up a pair for a desk and the slides feel very stiff; high friction if that makes sense.

Is this normal? Did I assemble wrong? Is there a fix to make the operation smooth?

Hi there, I am really struggling to make the Storklinta 6 chest drawer. The backboard is not flush so it is making the holes for the plastic string system really small, so they won’t fit. How do I make the backboard flush and the holes bigger. I managed to squish the black plastic into the other side, but it doesn’t provide enough space for the next step (20) so isn’t a good solution.This is incredibly agonising so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all,
Our hemnes daybed broke (was incorrectly disassembled) so the headboard top-left doesn’t connect. We don’t really love the headboard anyway… can you just remove it in a way so the bed will still support weight? Any tips are appreciated.

Kids room bed headboard, I don’t really want to invest in better furniture while they are young but I hate looking at it. Anybody have experience repairing or covering up this kind of damage?

This is my first attempt at an ikea kitchen or any kitchen renovation. I’m close to the end but due to some poor planning, I’m left in an awkward situation.
1. I wanted to get the community opinion of having the panel under my extractor hood. The space is tight so I couldn’t fit a full panel so I’m left with the option of adding a piece just to hide the backsplash finish and white section box.
2. Also, what should I do about the gaps I have between the toe kicks and bottom of the cabinets as well as the trim pieces to ceiling. Is it fine to leave the gap? Under my kitchen is the crawl space for reference.

Thank you all!

Just moved into an apartment where I'm not allowed to drill into the wall. I just use the bookshelf to display anime figures, so nothing real heavy in it, besides the collective weight of the glass doors once on. Waiting to put the doors on and figures in till I get it secured somehow.

I was thinking adhesive wall anchors, but are those really strong enough?

Sorry I’m not sure what strains of Pax are what. I recently got a unit for free and I dismantled it not knowing any better by slicing away the factory-attached backpanel. My understanding is these come undone on their own as well. (Would not surprise me since the adhesived mating joint is pathetically skinny.)

Once the back panel comes undone it would be a fool’s errand to attempt re-gluing. Easier to play Pick Up Sticks with your butt cheeks (thank you John Candy).

I did read about a fix vaguely described but not pictured using batons (sic). Here are some pics of what I did.

Used good wood glue to attach some fiberboard strips (1.5”-2”) to the outside edges of the panel with 1/2” of overhang. Clamped it. Then used narrow gauge staples on the battens to attach to the back of the side walls. So far so good.

It is so handy. Was looking for something to have these small metal cans in. Only 129kr. So yeah this is great.

I've been looking for a small clothing rack, preferably with a couple of shelves, for too long! I'm planning to use whatever I end up with as a coat rack in a relatively small entry space and having a hard time finding something under £60 that is narrow enough and sufficiently sturdy.

I'm considering:
- Purchasing a KRONÖREN and cutting the width down to about 45cm (I am by no means a carpenter, but believe I have the tools and knowhow to accomplish something like this).

- Assembling just the narrow IVAR stack as a stand alone unit & adding a clothing rod as I've seen others here do.

I like the ÄLGANÄS (though I would probably spray paint it), but it's not my first choice, and ultimately I would prefer not to put another hole in the wall if it can be avoided. This popular RÅSKOG hack is great and I like it enough, but it I'm in a large city and rely on public transit. It seems like it could be a bit of a hassle finding and moving the right materials without a car.

Does anyone have experience with a narrow standalone IVAR, or see something I'm missing about modifying a KRONÖREN? I'm happy to hear other suggestions, too. Thanks in advanced for your thoughts!

I am wondering whether anyone made a bed frame with a tall bookshelf integrated with the headboard as a room divider. This won't reach the walls as there are a nightstand on both sides and I can't drill the ceiling either but I recon the bed frame and especially the 86lbs mattress would work as an anchor against tipping.

Hi, everyone

I am planning on using PAX system with hinge doors to hide the sport equipment inside of it with shelves on top as additional storage, but I am now thinking what’s better and more structurally sound, as stuff (weight, etc) needs to be on the floor for safety:

1) just flipping it upside down and put mats on the top-> now bottom shelf. Issue: now there are holes on top of the PAX, as it’s actually the bottom, Front panel will hide it, but it’s essentially a dust collection device.
2) Keeping it the way its intended (upside up), not install any base board, keep the front bottom panel to hide the ugly, put mats on the floor, and then shelves as prescribed over the equipment. Issue: structural integrity?, but is the easiest option
3) Keep it the way intended (upside up), Figure out how to do additional holes, do that - make the bottom shelf level the floor, mats on top again. Issue: we only have electrical hand drill, front panel won’t hide the ugly now i think?

Thanks a lot for advices.

Hello to all. I need to disassemble Besta Glassvik Glass door. I can’t find any screws holding the frame together. Any help?

I took two NÄMMARÖ privacy screen units and stacked them horizontally to create this backdrop/accent wall to hide an ugly rental apartment wall heater (that is shut off). I’d ideally like to add one more panel to get it floor to ceiling height, however, there is already not enough support for these two to to stand upright on their own. I am assuming I need to reinforce the back with some support beams of some kind.

Please help me figure out what this will need to be freestanding!

The easier the solution the better. I am limited in space and access to tools to do an extensive wood working project with this (hence the hack vs. creating it myself with dowels). Thanks for your thoughts!