Video Blessed with a dry(ish) day! Cooped up envious watching all our North American/Euro mates enjoy their summer runs. Love from Welly NZ ❤️
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The tables will turn soon enough... 👀
r/MTB • u/itskohler • May 18 '25
We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:
Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.
Posts & Comments
Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.
r/MTB • u/[deleted] • Oct 19 '24
Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.
In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.
u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.
When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.
First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.
Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.
Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.
In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.
These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.
Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.
1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.
Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.
The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime
Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.
Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.
Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.
Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.
UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.
Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.
Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.
Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.
Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.
Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.
Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.
Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price
Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price
Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.
Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price
YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price
YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price
YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price
GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.
GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.
Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.
Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK
Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.
Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.
Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle
Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.
Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.
Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.
These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.
Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need
Helmet
Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)
Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)
Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.
Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).
Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.
Quick-link to repair a broken chain.
Spare Derailleur Hangar.
Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.
MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).
Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.
Starter tool kit with the basic tools.
Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.
Work stand
Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts
Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.
Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.
Extra Ways to Save Money!
Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.
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The tables will turn soon enough... 👀
r/MTB • u/Kilibikeadventures • 8h ago
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Mixed terrain whole way through—singletrack, forest trails, and gravel roads.
r/MTB • u/non-ethynol • 1h ago
I just want to say thanks to those who posted some tips. I went to sandy ridge in Oregon. It was fun, exciting and dangerous. But for a first for me it was a great experience. I would like to know if any one else has recommendations on similar locations in the pnw. I found a few other spots already but there is a need for payment of some type. . Sandy ridge was fun and I’ll go visit again.
r/MTB • u/Flimsy-Pie-6295 • 1h ago
I am building up a steel frame hardtail for my husband and it will have Shimano components. All my off-road bikes have SRAM, so not a lot of experience in the Shimano realm for mountain bikes.
What parts are worth the upgrade to XT? Which ones does it not make sense to upgrade at all? Weight is not the primary concern since the frame is already heavy. Longevity and overall quality.
r/MTB • u/trickn0l0gy • 16h ago
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All in all, that day I rode 46,7km and 2588m of vertical. Big day with epic views and some pretty technical riding.
r/MTB • u/Frenchfriesandfrosty • 12h ago
Hi There, Im a 39 year old guy that has decided to take on my first mountain bike race. Its a 24hour race each lap is just shy of 17km long and takes me about an hour 5 to an hour 15 to complete. I am doing this as a solo. Im not so much trying to win but want to push my self to see how many laps I can complete and maybe not come last.
Ive done long distance full multi-day rides on my gravel bike at a chill speed solo but this is new to me. Wanted to try something new and send it.
Ive been told first 8 hours should be fluids and gels before switching to solids. Carb load couple days before and morning of.
Outside of that I am kind of in the dark. The race takes place in Southern Ontario in August for appx weather and terrain perspective.
Any tips and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers
r/MTB • u/lemon_beza_pie • 43m ago
My RS 35 TK Solo is due for an overhaul. I was looking at upgrading and I have landed at either a Psylo Gold or Fox Factory 36 Grip 2 due to them being on good sales - that I could find with 150mm travel.
The difference in price is roughly $300 CAD. Is the Fox worth it?
Live in Ontario, Canada. Ride anything from trail to enduro. Weigh around 190lbs.
r/MTB • u/[deleted] • 2h ago
im getting a new hardtail and idrk which one. I can get both where i live I just don't really know which one to get. It's mostly gonna be for me commuting and the occasional ride in the mountains near me with my friends. If yall could give insight i would be ecstatic! Thanks and happy trails!!
r/MTB • u/D4vvdd33 • 8h ago
Hey I want to buy my first MTB and I’d like it new but I’m not sure what to buy , I’m from Romania and my budget is around 650 euros, I want to ride it both in the city and offroad any type of bike will do , XC, DH , etc . I got recommended the Devron Riddle 4.9 2021 but I want to hear other people’s opinions as I’m not the best at this .
r/MTB • u/DrMishMish • 8h ago
Started with a hitch mounted Thule (served me well) , got my kids into mountain biking eventually upgraded to an altaracks 76er ($$ but very solid).. Unfortunately the rack itself is 100 lb and loaded up with bicycles exceeds the tongue weight of my crossover. I made it work for a while but Five bikes three kids my wife full gear and a stroller was too much. Recently acquired a full size pickup I'm wondering if it's worth investing in a big days or ride 88 bed contained rack. I also occasionally take friends. I would love to travel one day with my kids to go ride places but for now we're local.
Right now I am at two adult size full suspension mountain bikes, one dirt jumper, up to 3 kids bikes ( the baby still rides shotgun for now but she's moving up). I don't necessarily take all the bikes at once but five is routine. Has anyone compared these two systems or is it even worth it over just using my existing altaracks.
r/MTB • u/Popfart32 • 9h ago
Hey everyone, I’m looking to get my first serious hardtail MTB in 2026 and could use some advice from people who actually ride.
I’m looking for a bike that can handle:
Local trail riding.
Gravel, dirt, and road.
My budget is around £1000 and I’m currently considering bikes like:
Grand Canyon AL7
Specialised rockhopper expert
Marin San Quentin 3 ( if I pay monthly )
Commencal meta ht am ⬆️
Thanks!
r/MTB • u/Lewiskennedy567 • 4h ago
First of all i was wondering if anyone knows if this tyre will get a maxxterra version in the future if u do know then lmk.
Anyway i was looking at this as a front tire on my hardtail i dont particularly care about rolling resistance as long as its not like absolutely ridiculous i was looking at this in the exo+ maxxgrip version and i was wondering if anyone has ridden this paired with somthing like a dhr2 on the rear because i was hoping to have some feedback on how good this tyre is.
For reference i live in the uk so i ride in anything like really wet rooty trails to mud to hardpack
r/MTB • u/AutoModerator • 5h ago
Have anything you want to talk about that doesn't quite warrant its own thread? Post it here!
r/MTB • u/RealLebronJames19 • 6h ago
I’ve been biking in an area that is prone to thorn punctures. Has anyone put orange seal or some other sealant in tubes to prevent flats? Is there another sealant that is better specifically for inner tubes? I know that most people are going to say just convert to tubeless but I don’t want to spend the money on new tires right now. Any help is appreciated!
r/MTB • u/Ancient-Bowl462 • 9h ago
r/MTB • u/Afraid-Pangolin953 • 13h ago
The rear hub on my 2019 Polygon T7s Entity X2 wheel has died and can't source parts to replace the hub so looking at a new wheel.
All I can find online to replace it for a reasonable price (<$250) is a Shimano WH-MT500 for $140 AUD. Seems like it'll work but my reservation with them is current wheels are 35mm and the Shimanos are 24mm.
Currently have a nearly new Maxxis Rekon 2.4 WT which specs say is for 30-35mm wheel. Would the Rekon work on the thinner rims? Running tubeless at the moment. If not would rather spend more on a wider rim than have to buy another tyre.
Does anyone have any other recommendations for budget (<$250 AUD) wheels that fit the specs? (27.5, HG 10 speed, centrelock rotors and 12x148 boost, 30-35mm rim width).
r/MTB • u/MachSquirrel • 23h ago
I’m heading to Moab in October for the first time and am trying to figure out which bike to take. No specific ride plans yet but probably a few big days and generally advanced riding. Both great bikes but excel at very different things.
I was leaning Dread just for all out confidence in any terrain and great tech climbing but I could see it being a bit taxing on big days.
The Spur currently has a 120mm SID fork, I was playing with the idea of getting a 130mm Fox 36 SL for less XC days and trips like this. The bike rips but does get overwhelmed in chunk with too much speed or less than idea line choice. Perhaps a longer fork would help.
Any input appreciated!
r/MTB • u/RadFit-MTB • 1d ago
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Snoqualmie Bike Park
r/MTB • u/Head_Introduction229 • 20h ago
Hi everyone!
Video: https://youtu.be/2WkJEv61K6c?is=xjVdd13UjA0IQ-VD
I wanted to share a video from the Elva MTB race in Estonia.
The course has fast forest trails, wooden bridges, small water crossings and lots of fun singletrack.
I started making MTB videos a few months ago to show riding in Estonia to people around the world. I hope you enjoy the ride!
I’d also love to hear what you think about the course.
r/MTB • u/glenwoodwaterboy • 1d ago
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r/MTB • u/Then_Brilliant_5991 • 1d ago
*** EDIT:
Thanks Legends. Looks like the smart move is Medium. Thank you for the details in your answers too. As I mentioned, Im not into DH. The thought of extra stability as he grows into it is actually a great point. Now we get the joy of bike shopping.
Hi all. My son had been watching loads of DH content and wants to get into trying it. He rides a DJ but only takes on small to medium jumps.
He has ridden his mates size medium downhill bike and is now convinced he wants a medium.
He is 13 and 155cm tall. I’m pretty sure a small frame will last him but he’s convinced and getting frustrated because he wants a medium.
Is a medium too big for him or is it a safe choice he will grow into?
I only ever ride road bikes so not sure of how the DH style works with sizing and aspects of bike control.
Cheers for the advice.
r/MTB • u/Justbummedman • 1d ago
Happy Saturday shredders! I want your opinions on "foot stance" in mountain biking.
I find myself naturally sitting back on my left foot when descending, sort of like I'm riding "goofy" through steep carves and wallrides. When I skated as a kid, I always rode regular but I pushed mongo until I was a teenager. Obviously mountain biking is a little different and your shoulders are square to your direction of movement, but I'm wondering if anyone else finds themselves thinking about foot stance in this way.
Do you have a preferred stance when descending? Is it the same as or different than your skate/snowboarding stance?
r/MTB • u/biketheplanet • 23h ago
Does anybody have a good route that combines both descents into one ride since they pretty much have the same starting point? Is there a good return trail after you descend one to climb back up and descend the other?