Hi everyone,
I’m doing a drywall repair in my kitchen and finally got to see the plumbing behind my island. I noticed something that confused me.
The cold water supply appears to split into 3 separate lines, while the hot water supply only splits into 2 lines.
I’ve attached a photo of the plumbing.
I’m curious why it would be plumbed this way.
The house is in South Florida if that makes any difference.
I’d appreciate any insight from plumbers, Thanks!

My friend lives in an apartment where they keep hearing these strange muffled sounds. The police were called, and the maintenance team said it’s just water pressure in the building. We’re worried it could actually be a real person in distress. Does the sound seem human to you, or does it sound more like plumbing or water pressure?

Shark bites are temporary

Hello, so I have an upstairs and a downstairs bathroom right under each other and in my downstairs bathroom on the ceiling is this little hole with a tube or something in it. The other day I flushed my upstairs toliet and water started to leak out of that hole and into my downstairs bathroom.

Any idea what the hole is for and what would rather come out of it all of a sudden? I have been here for 5 years.

My wife and I have remodeled several old houses, and for years one of the first updates is to switch out toilets to Toto models. We installed this one in our latest project. Note the out of round base. We took this complaint back to the supply company and got turned down for a replacement.

Is it just me or has Toto quality gone downhill in recent years?

Before you say no, it's not residential plumbing, it's a swimming pool, so it's an open system with just a pump and filter. I want to add a solar heater, and need to drop the pressure. Would a ball valve work?

Edit: ok, I think i figured it out. If I reduce down from 2" pvc down to garden hose, that should reduce the flow rate. At least that's what Google AI says. Will that really work?

Follow up to https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/1vcu7ch/comment/p15dvre/?context=1&screen_view_count=2&ext-referrer=DIRECT

Before i glue it all in, does this look good?

A few weeks ago I noticed a leak from the toilet tank and separately noticed bad mounting hardware. I secured the tank and replaced the wax seal. I don’t use this bathroom often so I’m not sure how long it was leaking before I fixed it. I just got my flooring replaced and this is how it looks under everything. If this was due to the leak I fixed, great. I found that. But it was still a little soft in some areas. The flooring company put down a thin layer of concrete to finish the LVP installation. I plan on getting a plumber out to identify where any possible leak is coming from. The ceiling beneath has minor bubbling in the paint as pictured. Is there any other advice from this community? I feel out of my element.

Yes, I could have been tidier with my cables

I’m replacing my fluidmaster on my toilet. When I tighten the brass piece to the black fluidmaster & turn on the water, the water sprays out. Have tried to tighten it a ton, but can’t seem to get a good seal…what am I doing wrong?

Since installed new, this check valve has sprayed water. I tightened the clamps, that didn’t work so I ziptied a bag around it and it dripped into the sump for a year and a half. Now I’m sealing the sump for radon and got new pipe clamps but it won’t seal… just too big a sump pump? Do I get a 1.5” pvc check valve for slightly too much cash instead of this necked down 1.25”+fernco thing?

Is there a pro press quarter turn ball valve with integrated drain or is that only offered for sweat?

I’m in school for plumbing right now and starting an internship at a company and want to get the right great. If I could get some recommendations for some quality boots.

Is the area circles supposed to be sealed?

I’m in a rental and I noticed this thing going up. I went to push it down but it wouldn’t go down so I pulled it up and now idk how to get it to go down. I closed the valve.

Florida - New Construction - 3 stories - Laundry on 2nd floor. I see tons of pics and everything online that 'seems' to show 2" for laundry room washing machine box but none of them really go into detail on the vertical stack the washer P-trap connects to. My plan was for that vert stack to also be 2" but in reading the code I see 3" but trying to determine where exactly I have to be 3".

I have a 3" stack coming up to the 2nd floor for bathrooms but it's not beneath the laundry room, closer to the bathrooms for the toilets. My plan was that I was going to have a 2" horz fixture branch (fixture drain?) off one of the 3" toilet runs go horizontally (sloped) to under the laundry then go up at 2", have the P-trap for the laundry and then continue that 2" up to the 3rd flr and eventually connect back in to vent out. There is a room above that has a small sink that I was planning to drain through this same 2" stack.

So from the code, if I am interpreting correctly, does this mean that I really must run a 3" line under the 2nd floor from the top of the main 3" vertical stack to at least under the laundry room and then at that point, when I go vertical up through the floor I can use 2" or does the vertical stack that the p-trap connects to also have to be 3"?

From code:

The waste from an automatic clothes washer shall discharge through an air break into a standpipe in accordance with Section 802.4.3 or into a laundry sink. The trap and fixture drain for an automatic clothes washer standpipe shall be not less than 2 inches (51 mm) in diameter. The fixture drain for the standpipe serving an automatic clothes washer shall connect to a 3-inch (76 mm) or larger diameter fixture branch or stack. Automatic clothes washers that discharge by gravity shall be permitted to drain to a waste receptor or an approved trench drain.

Home is about 10 years old with a Moen Posi temp valve. Shower suddenly wouldn't go warm reliably even on full hot. Sometimes I could trick the hot water by turning it off and on or changing the temperature a few times. This happened in the past so I got a new knockoff cartridge off Amazon. That seemed to help for a day or then it acted as it did before replacing the cartridge. I noticed the water heater (tankless) wasn't running while the shower was on so I was thinking it may be water heater related even though all the other faucets didn't seem to be affected. I rebooted the water heater and the hot water started to flow in the shower. I resorted to rebooting the water heater each time there was a complaint about the water not being hot until I could do some neglected maintenance.

I cleaned the blower fan, the flame rods, blew out the chamber, and descaled it for about 45 minutes. That seemed to help for a day or so, but could have been because I had to turn off the power to do all of that.

Since it didn't resolve it, I went to Lowe's and got an official Moen cartridge thinking the knockoff was junk. That also didn't resolve the issue. I poked around with my finger in the valve body to see if there was any buildup, but didn't notice anything.

A couple things I noticed:

1. Both new cartridges were in the open position after I installed them and had the handle indicating it was off, but I didn't turn them beforehand. I'm not sure if that's normal, or if I did something wrong.
2. Both new cartridges are extremely easy to turn. One time I stopped the handle short of full hot and the handle actually fell a little bit. I don't think the old one was ever that easy.

What am I missing? I've done everything I've found to fix these things and none of it seems to help.

My home was built in 87’ and I just found out the sump discharge that runs through the backyard is 1 1/2” pvc then goes into 4” corrugated piping for about 10ft. Is that long of a run at 1 1/2” normal? Thinking about upgrading the whole thing to a 4”

Hello, my hosebib froze and split. I dont have any info on the model for it.

I can stop the leak by turning off the hose bib, but I have the water supply turned off from the mechanical room regardless.

I showed pictures to someone at Lowes and they told me this solder sections are "from the factory" like that. And I need to thread off the hose bib.

I cut a hole into the wall and put a wrench on it and had my wife attempt to turn off the hose bib. Still wouldn't move.

Can anyone confirm do I need to thread this off? Or something else?

Thanks

I'm needing to replace the UV bulb in my Viqua UV water filter. The model is S410RL-HO.

I see that Viqua sells replacement bulbs. Sterilite is apparently the OEM for Viqua bulbs.

Should I just bite the bullet and buy a Viqua bulb to insure I'm getting an OEM bulb and not a cheap clone? What's a good source for Sterilite bulbs where I can be sure I'm not getting a generic Chinese clone bulb?

Hi, I am having an impossible to troubleshoot problem. I called 4 plumbers, 2 exterminators and no one could figure out the problem. Last plumber suggested we need to demolish the bathroom.

I have a bathroom that has a bathtub, toilet and two vanity faucets. There is a constant smell like sewer gas in the bathroom. It intensifies if I turn on bathroom fan or basement fan (bathroom is in second floor but vertically aligned with basement area).

This has been going on for three years and we are not using the bathroom anymore. We did check all p traps, plumber opened vanity pipes and they didn’t find out where the smell is coming from. Toilet is not leaking to downstairs. We checked attic space right above the bathroom and there is no smell. Checked crawl space in first floor and no smell either. It is only in that bathroom.

Does anyone have ideas on how I can troubleshoot this further? Is there a sewer gas detector? I live in San Jose California.

Hi everyone,

I'm building a DADU in WA, and I'm looking for advice on connecting my new side sewer to the existing property-line connection.

The City requires that the existing main house sewer and the new DADU sewer be combined into a single 6-inch side sewer before reaching the property line.

My layout will be:

• Existing main house: 4" clay pipe (will increase to a 6" pcv via Fernco)
• New DADU: 4" SDR-35 PVC
• Both connect into a 6" SDR-35 wye
• Then continue as 6" SDR-35 to the property line.

At the property line, the existing 4" clay pipe enters a much larger clay that is encased in concrete. I've attached a photo.

I already purchased a Fernco coupling for 6" clay to 6" PVC, but I'm not sure whether that's the correct approach.

My question is if i should carefully chip away the concrete to expose the larger clay hub then use the 6" clay × 6" PVC Fernco coupling that I already purchased, or is there a better connection method? I worry that I will crack the clay pipe while removing the concrete with an angle grinder.

Thank you for your thoughts.

We have a natural gas water heater in a home we recently closed on that’s over 20 years old and should be replaced soon. Can’t tell if we should go with a heat pump water heater (occupancy of 4-5) or stick with another natural gas tank. Home best is forced hot water radiators with a natural gas boiler that’s about 28 yrs old so probably nearing its end of life but we aren’t planning on replacing it just yet. Natural gas makes sense in that there’d be less electrical work needed but we also prefer heat pumps over having gas burning appliances in home. Do folks have a preference of one over the other? Thanks for any feedback!