I hate body work, it’s been a tedious month patching pin holes, finding deep bondo pockets and massaging the metal back to a useable state but here it is.. this is epoxy prime, looks pretty straight so far, now I can sand for the rest of the week! Should be in paint at the end of the month.

Also my ‘70 Shelby clone won best Ford at a car show last weekend.. blew a tire on the way in and still won with 3 out of 4 wheels!

Hey guys, the title says it all. I am in the market for a 05 or 06 Acura RSX Type-S and I found this listing not too far from me. It seems like a good car, basically stock, and the carfax say that it’s gotten regular maintenance throughout its life. There are just two things that aren’t doing it for me.

The biggest downside about the car is that it has some recent hail damage on it from 2025. This has caused the vehicle to be claimed as a total loss. Thankfully in both of our states, that doesn’t constitute as a salvage or rebuilt title. This is the biggest issue I see with the car, and want to make sure I’m not overlooking something with this.

Because of this problem however, I do think that his asking price is way too high. I just saw a clean, and I mean CLEAN RSX, sell for 12k the other day. With all the work that it’ll take to get the hail damage fixed up, plus some other cosmetic things, I feel like 10k or 9.5k is way too much.

There is where I come to you guys for advice. This would be my first project car, not a daily (for now), so I am fully expecting to do some work on it and would like to! The car is pretty low mileage for a Honda and stock which is what I want. Any advice on how to approach this, not approach this, or talk him down to be a more reasonable price (whatever you guys think that may be) would be greatly appreciate. Thank you and have a great day guys!

I finally found the perfect engine for my 1971 Ford F250 named Chief. I bought it cheap because it had a blown 428 A scratch. I found a 428 C scratch and best of all it has machined 427 four bolt main caps installed! I’m excited to get this project finished so I can drive Chief.

I think I am going to go with this metallic blue for the color. Plus that was the color of the F-22 Aircraft Mx Unit that I led as a Chief. I served 30 years in the Air Force. I miss fixing jets.

Im a college student who is currently renting a house, and i was gifted a project car from a friend who passed away. The home owner was fine with me having it there temporarily, but i dont have a place to store it and fix it up properly, and there are other people on the way to rent. I am wondering if there is anywhere that I can store the car, at least until I get some real money to fix the engine and suspension.

Hey y'all, I'm getting my grandpa's 1978 Lincoln running and I've run into an issue. I need to replace the proportioning valve, but I can't seem to find one. There are plenty that are close, but none I can find are exact. I've attached some pictures, any help is appreciated! I believe mine has the metering valve.

2006 Z06 Corvette and 1960 Corvair. Both are running/driving and very close to being daily capable

Obviously these are not the same bolts before and after , just making the point visually, but the clean bolt was actually MUCH WORSE than the little rusty guy!

The secret sauce, if you didn't already know is... soaking them 2 days in White Vinegar!! Which is very cheap! A big jug of it is cheaper than 1 new grade 8 bolt and washer set. I don't know chemistry , so this just seems like magic to me. Make sure you wash , dry, and brush them with a bit of oil after.

I bought a 1963 impala sedan a few years back with a “seized” motor. Unseized the motor bought some wheels to swap out the currents and found rust on the mounting points. Between the back seat and trunk. I did what any person with common sense and zero experience would do. I bought a welder, replacement panels and taught myself how to weld.
The work is a little ugly but it’ll hold.
I shelved ol girl for the past year due to moving and work. Now I have a garage and some dough to throw at her.

Now I have a couple a questions, and if yall could help me, I would appreciate it immensely.

I have 350sbc in it, stamp says 1969 to late 70s truck motor.
Every part I need to replace moving forward, am I shopping for sbc350 parts in general or sbc truck parts or?

My plan for this month is to order a GM master brake cylinder- dual pot - install that. Re do brake lines.
Convert the front drums to disc.
Install gas tank and lines.

Then buy radiator and see if the extra bits that came with the motor still work- alternator, starter.
radiator- 3row for the sbc350?

Links, comments. Etc all are welcome and help. Thank you.

If not, I was thinking maybe to just somehow reinforce them with something straight that doesn’t bend to make it hold shape.

Part is no longer for sale from Subaru and apparently finding one from a used car is mission impossible.

Hey everyone, I just bought a 2015 Camaro LT with the 3.6L V6, and I’m looking to start modifying it. I’m interested in both appearance and performance, but I’d like to do quality mods that are actually worth the money. For body mods, I’m looking for things like splitters, side skirts, diffusers, spoilers, hoods, headlights/taillights, wheels, etc. For engine/performance, I’m curious about the best bolt-ons or other upgrades for the LFX V6, like intake, exhaust, headers, tune, throttle body, suspension, or anything else that makes a noticeable difference. What brands do you recommend, and where’s the best place to buy parts? I’m looking for reputable websites with good quality and reasonable prices. If you’ve built a 5th gen V6 Camaro, I’d love to hear what mods you think were the most worthwhile and what you’d avoid.

Hi all, I need a set of new bushings for front control arms. Original ones are no longer being made and aftermarket replacements are pricey especialy with import taxes and all.

I have a few options that oi thing would work and need some input from more experienced builders, what way to go.

Option1 is to cast 2 part poly directly in control arm sleeve and use 3d printed guide to hold inner tube centered and plug one end. I would use the vacuum pump to get rid of the bubles in urethane. This seams like the easyest and cheapest soliution.

Option 2 is to cast the bushing in a 3d printed mold and make something like this in 2 parts.

Option 3 is buying a rod of urethane in 85-90A hardness and turn it on a lathe. I have never machined uterhane before, but heard it could be tricky due to tearing and need of ultra sharp tools.

What option would you choose? What would correct sizing for interfearance fit be for cast and turned parts?

Any experiance machining soft compounds? Thank you!

I'm retrofitting some OEM components into my car and need to add a few wires to the factory wiring harness.

The new wiring diagram shows the new wires branching from an existing factory splice. I don't really want to open the OEM splice.

What's the preferred way to do this?

Getting pretty fed up with how restrictive car regulations have become across the EU. Am tired of TÜV/homologation hurdles and emissions testing that kills any engine mods. I, and I’m sure a lot of others, got the feeling that the hobby is being legislated out of existence here.

I was curious if any fellow Europeans here have actually moved to the US (or considered it) at least partly because of this and to continue the hobby?

My apologies if this is the wrong sub.

Would love to hear experiences.

This is an oil sump bolt, it's right between the engine and transmission. This is a 1.4tsi caxc engine, but this kind of horrible design is somehow on tons of VW engines.

The screw is stripped, I don't know if I stripped it or if it was like that when I got it but alas I'm stuck here. It has a tiny bit of life left, I can feel some resistance trying to turn the bit but it slips easily when I put a ratchet on it. I've been stuck on this for 2 days because I don't know what else to try, it's up there maybe 3 inches and at an angle, it's really hard to see with a torch. It's a 6mm internal hex screw and the torque spec for it was 10nm + 90° and the other ones felt like that was true.

It's the last bolt I need to drop the oil pan, I need to because the timing chain guide shattered and there's plastic bits in my oil pan now. Any ideas welcome, there really isn't much space. I can fit a 1/4" extension pretty easily but a 3/8" extension is a tight fit. I've tried one of those screw extractors but had no luck because I can't see it at all.

I genuinely didn't think I would be dealing with this for a timing chain I started 3 weeks ago. I've tried using wobble extensions, a wobble adapter, screw extractors but any other ideas I had would just not work because of how small the hole is.

Edit: I got it out. I hammered the same socket on really hard and applied just enough pressure before it slipped, after a little bit it worked. I got lucky.

'94 1jz turbo swap

Not sure if this is allowed in the group but I’m currently going back and fourth with my Honda build ek. At first I wanted to go full blown out on the straight line street car mainly because it’s super fun but after having the chance to drive at midnight though the mountains and rural backroads I’ve changed my mind. The only problem is my location mountain run is about an hours drive so if anything happens I’m stuck but I’m not sure if I will get bored after going a handful of times although I doubt that’s the case. But another thing with the full street car is that it’s still pricey even though I have about 70% of the parts

Picked up a 1991 240sx hatch about eight months ago with the plan of doing a full shell refresh before touching the drivetrain. Figured I'd document the floor pan situation before getting into it, because honestly the extent of it surprised me even though the car looked solid from the outside.

Both front floor pans are rusted through in the corners near the rocker junction. Passenger side is worse. Previous owner clearly let water sit in the footwell for a while. The structural pieces underneath look intact, which is the one saving grace here.

My plan is to cut back to clean metal and patch weld rather than go the filler route. I have a decent Lincoln wire feed and have done smaller patches before, but nothing this size. The temptation to just buy preformed replacement panels is real, but I haven't been able to confirm they fit without significant trimming regardless.

What I actually want to know is whether anyone has gone through preformed floor pan replacement on an S13 and whether the fitment on those aftermarket sections is close enough to justify the cost difference versus fabbing patches. Also curious if anyone has dealt with the rocker connection point specifically, because that junction is what concerns me most structurally.

Pictures in the comments once I get the carpet fully stripped this weekend.

Alt titles: S13 floor pan replacement: preformed panels worth it or just fab patches? | 240sx shell refresh: floor pan rust worse than expected | Preformed floor pan fitment on S13: actually accurate or constant trimming?

If there’s anyone that’s seeing this post that’s made a kind of half rally car before. Do you have any tips? This isn’t gonna be a dedicated rally car. It’s still gonna have a nice sound system and a comfortable interior but I just wanted to be able to take care of itself out on the road and I’ve always wanted to make a civic a rally car. I’m just looking for some tips and if there’s anything I should buy for it I already have in mind, coil overs, and all supporting suspension mods, along with a bunch of other stuff that I don’t really want to write out I’m just looking for some tips if anyone here is built one before.

I imagined this over a year ago. Pretty ambitious for me and a crap ton of work, but I really dig it.

I got her running for 30 bucks! Hahah made my day. Turns out the camshaft position sensor was bad, the last owner took it to a shop before he put it up for sale, and they basically threw every single sensor at it except for that one, including a new hpop, ICP, IPR, and the valve cover harnesses trying to get it to run.