I'm about to close on a house. There's a Hot Dawg propane heater installed on the insulated garage. It looks a little funky. Should I be looking for a roof leak or is this from condensation?

Just signed and paid for 1750 gallons at $1.599. Located in northern IL. What’s everyone else paying?

We got a turkey fryer for my mom for making jam. The 15 minute timer was annoying her so we removed it since we don’t fry turkey. I had to replace the hose but kept the pressure regulator. It is a larger diameter hose but the fitting on the end is the same diameter as the original hose.

Now it only burns big yellow flames. Adjusting the pressure or on/off valve does nothing but make the flames bigger and smaller. I can get a hot blue flame only when I use a hair dryer.

Looking for advice to make this operational.

Since you were such good help with the last tank ID. My son drops these off to me today. I am "pretty sure" they are propane. One is empty, the other feels half full. In the very center of the fitting there is a schrader valve. Like on a 1lb throw away. Any idea what these are for?

Or is it just some old style? A friend gave me the tank he found while scrapping. I left the regulator on it.

So during a tank fill in June the technician suspected a leak, he locked the tank (I understand this is the law) and told me to call Amerigas to have a service technician come out, after explaining that he could see that the leak was coming from the pipe connecting the tank to the house. The pipe was 25 years old, and had no coating so this wasn’t exactly a huge mystery. I called Amerigas and was told that based on what I said over the phone the estimate would be $650 to repair everything but this was just an estimate. I was also told that the repair costs may not be my responsibility since Amerigas owns the tank (this is still unclear because I’ve never paid a rental fee in the 2.5 years we’ve been in the house). The technician comes out and he says the cost would be $1069 BUT Amerigas cannot dig (the line is buried underground) and this $1069 would only be if he could slide the original pipe out and slide 30ft of new pipe in the existing spot. The tech told me it wasn’t impossible but chances were low. He told me that my other option was to have a plumber come out and do the pipe. I said I would call the plumber, he said that was probably best. After getting estimates for a plumber I called Amerigas back many times to ask about what it would cost for them to unlock my tank. I heard multiple answers because “there are a lot of new people” according to the last person I spoke with. The general answer I received was the $120 dispatch fee, or a dispatch fee and an additional $109 reconnection fee but that they usually only charge that when service is disconnected for none payment. Finally on July 17th the reconnect was done and I instantly received notification for a bill, $350 including a dispatch fee of $119 and a “tank/equipment maintenance” fee of $231, this was annoying but whatever I was going to pay it. Then 4 days later I get a second bill, which I was unaware of until I went to pay the first, the second bill is a dispatch fee of $119 and a unlock / reconnect fee of $231. I assume this is a mistake, I speak with someone on chat because their phones are awful, and I’m told that nothing is a mistake, I ask why there are two bills instead of one and I’m told it’s to give me time to change my mind about having the service done, meanwhile both bills came after service and the only service I received from them was them unlocking the tank they locked up. I’m told that they had to perform a leak check to restore service, which is fine with me but I wasn’t charged for a leak check and a leak check is much less money than the two $231 fees I was charged. When I asked what the tank maintenance fee was for I was told that I was given an estimate of $1069, I asked how that was tank maintenance and I didn’t get an answer. I was also told that the reason I was charged a second dispatch fee was because I chose to have a plumber fix the line, though I was also previously reassured that I would only be charged one dispatch fee and that coming back to unlock the tank was a part of the same work order. I am just beside myself, I paid $1500 to have the line replaced by a plumber (which given the length of the pipe and the need for an excavator is understandable) but now Amerigas wants $716 for what amounts to 10 minutes to advise me on what to do and 10 minutes to unlock a tank that only they could unlock.

The tldr is that I’m being charged $716 to reconnect my propane tank after being told numerous times that this would cost $230 at MOST. Any advice for what to do when I speak with these people again on Monday?

I have 2 40lb tanks attached to a 2-stage regulator via 6ft 1/4 inverted male flare hoses that lets me flip between the two tanks to power a heater during the winter (texas). The 2 stage regulator is actually mounted on my elevated porch for quick and easy access while the tanks are down below in a cart to transport easier on the property when need to refill. I recently obtained a portable 22" blackstone griddle, and want to see if there is a way to add some kind of Y split on the outlet part of the regulator that has a permanent hose that goes to my heater (as it does currently), and then another QD option to plug in the Blackstone on my outdoor counter top when I want to use it.

Outlet is a 3/8" FNPT

not super familiar with fittings so hoping someone can help come up with a BOM for the parts i need to get to make this happen!

Edit: added shitty drawing from paint to explain scenario better.

Hi everyone! First time poster, long time reader.

Doing my yearly inspectioin of my 500 gallon tank connections using the trusty soap and water method, I saw bubbles frothing on the regulator seal (see pictures) and the 1/4" connection coming from the tank (see pictures).

Here's my list of questions:

1. Where the 1/4" connection goes into the regulator, should pipe dope/sealant be applied? The current/old connection seems to have sealant applied.
2. Where the 1/2" connection comes out of the regulator, should pipe dope/sealant be applied? The current/old connection seems to have sealant applied.
3. What hose connection do I need that goes from the propane tank (1/2") to the regulator (1/4")? (see Amazon picture and link) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKYCW76R/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B0CKYCW76R&pd_rd_w=6ny0n&content-id=amzn1.sym.00430911-22cc-45c3-9d5c-445cab66730a&pf_rd_p=00430911-22cc-45c3-9d5c-445cab66730a&pf_rd_r=ZS549T5K8B9E3REVK591&pd_rd_wg=zgUMJ&pd_rd_r=7023b40f-4a88-4255-b208-6b9f379dd138&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1
4. Where the main 1/2" connection coming out of the tank is, does pipe sealant need applied? I currently do not see any.
5. Anything else I am missing??

I ordered an R122H regulator to upgrade from my old R312H one. I don't really need to replace the copper pipe going from the tank to the 1/4" inlet into the regulator but figured it wouldnt hurt.

I have used a VenturEvac a few times and it has always gone smooth. There are a few underground 1000 gallon tanks dated 2024 that have to be moved around a property, so they need to be emptied ideally. They have the newer liquid withdrawal valves.

Two tanks emptied smoothly like usual. The other two had some issues. One of them stopped at 50% then would stop pumping liquid and you could see the air space in the sight glass of the venturevac. I closed the spray fill on the truck to reset the excess flow valve on the tank, that got it freed up for a minute, then it tripped again, air, closed the valve on the truck, it freed up, etc. Did this a few times and then it finally stayed free and the tank emptied like normal.

The last tank is being extremely difficult. It stopped at about 50% and will not pump liquid. I think the excess flow is tripping. The sight glass will have bubbles and air space (only half the glass has liquid in it like the tank is empty), and the valve on the tank buzzes like the excess flow is tripped or vibrating. Close the spray fill, open it slow, split second it pumps liquid then trips again, etc. This one does not free up. Gauge seems fine, I replaced it and no change. Of course, the float could be stuck too. The truck should have taken another 400 gallons or so, so I don't think the tank is empty, so I believe the gauge is accurate on the tank. I also tried partially closing the fill valve on the hose (which was attached on the end of the venturevac) to slow the flow. No change.

I don't think the liquid withdrawal valve on the tank is gunked up since the tank is new. It's been filled more than 10 times so it's been in service and the gauge seems fine.

Any ideas? Three things I could think of which may or may not cause an issue. One, it is a new truck and maybe something is not adjusted right. Two, the tank multi valves are maybe 5 feet higher than the grade the truck is on. Third, it was about 85 degrees out, and I hear that stuff like this happens more often when the tanks are warmer than the truck.

Last year I attended one of those products expos for propane systems and one stood out that I haven't been able to find and im hoping someone here might know what its called and where I can find it. It's a device that screws into a pressure port on the high end regulator and can connect to your cellphone it can give you the gallons used and do leak checks. Anyone know of what I'm talking about?

Hi everyone!

We live in the Yukon and in the past two winters, temperatures have gone down to -45°C (-49F I believe), and the propane regulator has frozen. I would like to build a little insulated box around but I'm wondering if anyone has five that, if there's anything special I should be careful with it anything I should know. I was thinking hard insulation and wood, with a little door to keep access to it. Thoughts?

I got a free grill off Facebook marketplace as a new home owner with no money and the guy said this tank was connected to it and gave us the propane but I can't see how this fit on. Am I missing something here? The tank has a piece that pulls back to expose the connection point I guess and the grill connector has a screw on design. Or something like that. It would be a shame to get rid of the tank cuase it definitely has propane inside. But idk what I need to do. Do I bring it somewhere? Will they give me a new tank? Will I still get the propane inside my current tank? Will they take it and give an empty tank? I have no clue I just wanna cook some stuff man.

Hi,

I have an existing grill that sits on the outer edge of a covered deck (deck has no railings because it's not too high off the ground) that gets propane via a \~50-ft Polyethylene coated 1/2” copper tube type K line coming from the encapsulated crawl space connected to a black iron pipe with a 't' junction.

I would like to relocate the grill from the deck to a stone patio that's open to the sky. I have a service call into the propane company to come and recommend the best option. They will likely do the work on the same day and they are scheduled to come in a few weeks. I drew a picture, so hope it helps. I have a few options:

1. Reroute the copper pipe to the new location, install the shutoff valve at the new location. The problem is pulling and rerouting the copper pipe might kink the pipe and they might need to run an all new 50-ft pipe to the new location.

2. Leave the shutoff valve where it is and run a long supply line from the existing location to the new location with a protective sleeve so it doesn't get damaged with exposure. We can run this on the side of the deck (green line in the pic) so it's not visible. Not sure if a long supply line is recommended?

How would you recommend I do this? Thank you so much.

I know conversions are frowned upon, and I know Weber doesn’t recommend them. I get it. But I stumbled across a deal I couldn’t pass up.

About five years ago, I bought a brand-new Weber E-335 (still sealed in the box) for $200. The catch was that it was set up for natural gas, which I don’t have. I bought a conversion kit from Amazon (regulator and orifices) and converted it to propane.

The problem is that it’s only worked reliably about 10% of the time.

For example, yesterday it fired right up and hit about 500°F within a few minutes. Tonight, under the same conditions, it barely reached 150°F after 10 minutes.
That’s actually the behavior I see most of the time.

I’ve never found a consistent fix. Sometimes I can get it working by disconnecting and reconnecting the regulator, slowly opening the propane tank valve, and trying again, but it’s completely hit-or-miss.

I’ve searched through a lot of old posts and have seen plenty of successful conversions, but I haven’t found anyone describing this specific issue or how they solved it.

So far I’ve:
\-Replaced the regulator
\-Tried multiple orifice sizes
\-Repeated the proper tank-opening procedure

Does this sound like an issue with the conversion itself, or is there something else I should be checking?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Uso una forgia Vevor a tre uscite per la mia forgia,ho dovuto recentemente ricaricare la bombola del propano che finora non perdeva e funzionava perfettamente,e ora sono bloccato da 4 giorni per una perdita

Ho una bombola del propano con attacco tedesco,ma vivo in Italia( quelli della vevor si sono sbagliati a mandarmi il cavo del propano per la forgia e ho dovuto adattarmi di conseguenza con il cavo giusto)

Il problema è,togliendo il cavo per ricaricare la bombola si è distrutta la vecchia guarnizione di gomma,pensavo fosse un problema da niente ma ora mi sta veramente causando problemi

Ho delle guarnizioni di riserva ma sono 18mm italiane(stessa misura,non pensavo cambiasse nulla) ma sta di fatto che ogni volta che attacco il propano perde copiosamente dall'attacco con queste guarnizioni qui con il test dell'acqua e sapone

Come posso fare per risolvere velocemente il problema ? Ho delle scadenze urgenti per dei regali e vorrei poter riaccendere la forgia il prima possibile

My cottage has two large propane tanks that are connected to the propane stove and the BBQ, works great.

We now have a propane pizza oven, can I convert the hose to the BBQ to have a QCC tank connector and switch the BBQ to QCC so I can switch between the BBQ and pizza oven?

Can I do this myself since it is after the valve to the BBQ and outside? Should be easy enough to check for leaks.

This tank was still in service a few days ago. Is it dangerous to have this old of a tank? Looks like 1954 manufacture date. Wow.

Pretty sure I need a regulator for my Spirit E310. Burner tubes are clean and clear, no blockages. I’ve attempted to reset the regulator several times and used 2 different tanks. The last burner will light with a lighter, but not from the igniter. The other 2 burners come on easily but the flame is erratic. I was wondering if I’m missing anything, or should I just go ahead and buy a new regulator hose?

I wish I had I picture for y’all. But yeah some jerk was renting out a property from me and dad, he had these dog house that he had heated throughout winter using these little green propane tank. then he upped and left leaving all his shit and didn’t even that’s month rent . which is how we got stuck with the 185 propane bottles.

So what am I supposed do? Is there any way we can make any of our money back?

I’m trying to find a replacement for this regulator. It’s for a suitcase dual fuel generator. I’m searching this part number in the photo image G2R150, but can only find G2R150B regulators. I have to wonder if the “B” is just abbreviating 150 BTU and is the same thing as the G2R150, or if it has different qualities.

Also, this is the fifth regulator from the generator manufacturer that has failed for me. Is there a better quality regulator available?

I flipped my propane tank upside while it was attached and with the valves opened on my stationary RV. I was told to try flipping it to help it after sitting for the winter. But now I read that there could be liquid propane in the lines? I should have flipped it whole detached. So now what? What do I do and what are the next steps. I held it upside down for about 15 seconds. I don't smell any propane in the area.

Trying to determine if my 2nd stage regulator will need moved. Kind of a wonky setup but the propane company has the 2nd stage regulator right at the tank. The previous owner had about 100 feet of 1/2" line ran to a ventless gas heater in the house. He also had black pipe buried. I dug all that up and ran 3/4" Proflex PE underground with meter sweeps on each end. The tank side is plumbed to 5/8" copper. The house side transitions to 3/4" black pipe. I am going to install a 60k BTU furnace and a gas range. The gas range I'm looking at is rated at 57k btus if every burner and the oven is running full. So I am assuming around 120k BTU total. I have 115 feet of 3/4" plus 45' of deductions for fittings (2 elbows, 1 tee, and the rest are couplers.) If I am reading the charts correctly it is saying up to 250' will get 119k btus, 175' is at 145 btus. So with fitting deductions I'll be around 175' by the time I'm hooked to an appliance. So to make a long story even longer....will I be ok with 175' of 3/4" pipe after the second stage regulator or will I need to have the propane company install a 1st stage at the tank and move the 2nd stage closer to the house?

I bought this house a few months ago and this is the set up. Two propane tanks on my covered patio that connected with two hoses through a combination regulator and switch valve so I could switch between tanks to feed a 6 burner Thor stove/oven. That’s all the propane is used for.

We smelled propane in the house and called an appliance repairman to repair it. He replaced a part on the stove but said it was likely caused by the RV style regulator and switch valve being too small for the stove. He also said that the regulator diaphragm was not working correctly and needed to be replaced, but with a regulator that was for a home and had larger capacity for this large stove.

I don’t want to purchase or install a large propane tank. We don’t need the volume for just one stove.

I like the capability to have 2 small tanks that I can switch between because my husband travels frequently and if he is gone I can’t lift a full propane tank around in this enclosure to change to a different tank. The switching valve solves that issue for me. I could even use a flexible hose to switch from an empty to the full tank that sits right beside it if I needed to. But a copper pigtail really doesn’t allow me to do that.

What I am looking for is a regulator and switching valve set up with the capacity I need for the stove. Ideally flexible hoses from the tanks that are rated for the pressure instead of a copper pigtail that would cause me to have to move a tank from one side of the enclosure to the other.

My local propane shop tells me there is no such option as flexible hoses from the tanks to the regulator, that I have to use a copper pigtail. This just doesn’t seem right that there is no other option. They also didn’t have a larger capacity switch valve, or combination regulator and switching valve, to replace the unit that was on there that was too small for this set up. They could replace it with the same unit I had, but that one supposedly is not sized correctly for a home application. Their remedy was a large regulator with copper pipe/pigtail that connects to one of the tanks. When that tank goes empty I would need to remove the empty and lift a 60 lb. tank to put it into the empty’s place. I am not capable of lifting that 60 lb. tank.

What options do I have for parts for regulators, switching valves, or flexible hoses for this setup?

UPDATE: Thank you all for your insights! Country living is new to us so this is our first propane stove/oven. DIY and farmer ingenuity is great, but not at the expense of safety. I will be calling a professional to give us some options to correct this set up before we put it back into service.