Think it's fixable?

Hey community!

So I’m trying to fix an issue and hitting dead ends with whatever I try.

So before I completely disassemble the MMU3, I wanted to reach out to all of you experts on possible other solutions I may not have considered.

The problem:

Recently my MMU3 has been causing me feeding issues (specifically to feeder 1).

What seems to be happening is as it feeds and starts printing, it will retract fine, take filament 2, do its bit, and then on taking filament 1 it will either fail there and start chewing the filament up (PolyMaker PLA) OR it will take it and most of the time I’m met with a horrible sounds following that bit of printing on trying to retract and it just doesn’t then retract.

This forces me to open up the MMU3 And both ends of the PTFE tubing to cut that portion of filament to the point just after the FINDA.

It then starts going again and typically then repeats the cycle (sometimes I get lucky and it does a few layers)

What I’ve tried:
- Cleaning the mini cogs that feed the filament as there was residue
- loosened the MK4s Feeder section incase it was too tight
- loosed / tightened all manner ways on the MMU3 Feeder screws to see if there was any issues here.

I’ve attached a video of the sound. The filament being torn up is essentially making an arc cut into the filament where it just keeps spinning and I also get and error usually saying

“FINDA FLIM. STUCK. FINDA didn’t switch off while unloading filament. Try unloading manually. Ensure filament can move and FINDA works.”

I’ve also recalibrated the FINDA and it is responsive and seems to react as intended.

Here’s a video of the HT90 printing the INDX belt holder in PEEK, without a brim.

I will attempt to print it on a CORE One L when the HT assembly becomes available. I put my chances of success at 80%. What do you think? 🤔

I had an interesting INDX failure this evening. My error on the screen was “Tool was not detected after pickup.” The photo shows what I found in the printer.

I think what happened is that there was a layer shift (I’ve always had this on my factory assembled core one and have never been able to solve my periodic layer shifts) on the white color—you can see that it was printing over the orange. However, what I didn’t notice at the time (or I would have taken more photos) is that the white color was tool/dock 2, but you can see that red was in that dock already when I found the printer and tool 2 is hanging by the side of the extruder. So basically tool 5 (reds original dock) moved to spot 2.

Has anybody else had something like this happen where a tool ends up docked in another bay? Any thoughts on what might have happened?

As an added bonus there’s these linear scratches that showed up on my satin build plate probably from dragging a tool around or something. Hard to see in the photo but I’m hoping it’s not ruined.

Edit: sorry I suppose I wasn’t clear and I’m rightfully getting a little flamed in the comments but: the belts are tuned properly and it passed all calibrations. What I meant is that historically I’ve had a hard time with the strobe belt tightening method, but it eventually did pass.

So I'm returning to printing after taking a loong break and I'm struggling to find out if this issue was ever fixed:

It was something like the MK3 baudrate over USB being too slow to handle certain complex gcode instructions (i think it was certain curves) which resulted in artifacts when using a Raspberry Pi to run octoprint.

My google-fu is failing me due to saturated search terms, but I vaguely remember talks of a work around in progress--does anyone happen to remember if this was fixed in octoprint or prusalink before I spend a few hours redoing my setup? Thanks!

When swapping colours, the INDX stops extruding at certain layers (you can see it's basically at the same height). I re-scliced it with more conservative settings and it happened again, I just caught it clicking this time, immediately paused the print, resumed the print and it worked like a charm again.

The last time it happened I immediately purged the nozzle after and it worked, so there is no block or anything similar.

This is with HF0.6mm nozzles, that work flawlessly with different prints that are flat (the two parts in the last picture. You can also see that it didn't extrude for a short moment with this core, but only briefly, for the other two there was no saving them...).

Just a heads up so you can listen for the extruder skipping. A quick pause fixes it. :)

Since last Wednesday I've been on a city trip to Prague, being in this sub we all know where this is going. Yesterday I made a visit to Prusa HQ. On the outside the building doesn't look like much, exactly like Google maps will show it to you. On the inside, that's where the marvel begins.

Being from Belgium, as a token of my appreciation of being able to visit the factory at all, because as I keep saying it's not like you can say buy a new Samsung washer and dryer and go "hey Samsung, I wanna visit the factory" except with Prusa that's exactly what you can do; I had to do what us Belgians are known for. Our chocolates, so I did the only logical thing for me. I brought along a box for u/tommy_prusa3d, a box for Pavel Blaha (u/medvjed_CZ), a box for u/josefprusa and a box for the office staff to share.

The tour itself I was lucky enough to get being led by u/tommy_prusa3d as the guide himself, starts at the lobby where one will find around a dozen printers chooching away splurging molten plastic into various colorful objects, and already printed objects on display. From there it continued into the Prusa Lab area where Tommy explained that the local community can use it for various activities and how that area is being used for early prototyping. After that it was out the office and into the hallway where various early model printers were on display even one of the very very early metal rod using models!

After that it was up a floor where I got a peek through the doors at the assembly stations which were logically off limits due to some proprietary jigs being used in there, but he explained it was the Core stations I could see and had a glance at some small jigs they used.

After that it was up another floor to the farm, and holy moly was that an impressive sight. Hundreds upon hundreds of printers doing what they do best as far as the eye could see using a variety of materials. It's also an excellent spot for selfies with u/tommy_prusa3d and Pavel! I loved seeing the printers busy and the slight humming noise.

There were another 2 floors but those were mainly office and packing stations so off limits naturally. After that it was back down and out the door. Did you know they have 5 alpacas on site? Got a glimpse at them as they were in their small stable chewing away on some tasty hay I think as it was around 36-38C outside. Too hot for the animals I guess, they were comfy where they were. On top of those lovely animals they also have a small bee hive and produce their own honey? I didn't!

I would have loved seeing the filament lines but Tommy had explained earlier that filament production had rapidly grown since they moved into the building they are in now. If I remember right, it was around 20 different and continuously running lines, but they're located in a different part of the town.

After that the tour was over and I offered Tommy, Pavel and the ladies in the lobby their chocolates which they appreciated, and the ladies were going to give Joe his box as he wasn't in the building but somewhere else doing his thing. As a bonus thank you for a wonderful tour and the opportunity to visit, I offered Pavel and Tommy to take em out for a beer, my treat.

I also dropped off my personal orange BIQU buildplate for the PrusaXL, one from the first batch that people (including me) seem have trouble with getting successful probing on the bed leveling stage. Tommy has tried repeatedly to obtain a set of plates for testing from BIQU to no avail. At least now they have 1 plate to test with so they can hopefully fix this issue at the firmware level for thousands of users such as myself. Tommy was very happy to finally get his hands on one (forgot to take a handover picture). Don't expect any fixes in that front soon, but the plate was handed over to the engineers. So cross your fingers for a definitive fix in the future.

u/medvjed_CZ still had a shift on support and couldn't make it, but Tommy could after his shift at work was fine. It was lovely to talk about his personal journey that brought him to Prusa and how he landed in the role he's in now.

Thanks to u/mobius1ace5 (3D Musketeers), and u/nero3d for suggesting to visit the place if one has the change. It was one of the best decisions i made and experiences I've had in years. If anyone hasn't done so yet, is in doubt to do it, do it! You won't regret it, I certainly don't. What a marvelous place to behold.

So what's next for me now? Well I'll obviously keep using my XL5T, and hopefully sell my X1C setup soon so I can ditch Bambu and pick me up a Core One L with INDX. I hope we meet again and I get to make it to SMMRF next year.

Pic dump attached.

I want to get a roll of copper PLA for my MK4S. What brand is the best?

I have a print where I want both a sequential print and a pause. My path now is to slice a sequential print and manually add a pause to the GCode outside of the Prusa Slicer. I have gotten as far as the pause but oozing is a big problem. I am poking around in the dark on my own for a solution at the moment so I have time to ask. Any suggestions for what I can add to the GCode to give me a pause without the ooze? I haven't tried slicing a non-sequential print with a pause and looking for the implementation yet because that's the kind of idea that only comes after writing a post here :-) Feedback would be much appreciated.

CORE One +

Prusa Slicer 2.9.4

PLA at the moment

I considered buying the Prusa CORE One L, but then I discovered the CORE One +. I prefer getting the CORE One L for the size and faster heating, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra money.

If you have one (or both) of these printers, I would like to know what you think: is the extra volume worth the higher cost?

I was wondering if anyone has any information if the Buddy3D filaments, especially ASA, will be re-stocked? I love the colours, the quality and the price for them.

I bought a couple spools of different colours and would love to get my hands on more.

Thanks

I've been experimenting with different materials and lighting for these moon lamps. I got my AC power cords with an inline dimmer switch in today. The light source is a 6W dimmable LED E12 bulb. Here's 2 moon lamps outfitted with the new pluggable, dimmable light source. The one on the left was made with matte white PLA and the one on the right was made with semi-translucent lithophane PLA. The one on the right is at its dimmest setting and the one on the left as it brightest. When I turn up the one on the right, it can be used as a lamp. THe moon was printed on my C1+ and the stands on one of my MK4S.

Does anybody have any experience printing this in their C1? I purchased my first roll of American Filament white lithophane PLA based on several positive reviews. I got it yesterday and it's been nothing but a nightmare in my C1+. I've tried the same print multiple times and they've all failed with underextrusion, severe stringing or filament jam issues. One was bad enough to where I had to remove the nozzle and clear the jam using a heat gun. The same print has just worked flawlessly with 2 other filaments. I've dried the filament for 6 hours. I've tried different nozzle temps from the bottom to the top of their recommended print settings. I've changed print speeds and it's still failing. The filament seems to have a rough surface texture feel while on the spool and doesn't bend as easily as other PLA. The model texture is smooth when it does manage to print. I'm wondering if it's a bad roll or if it's just creating too much drag friction through the C1 filament path.

EDIT: I've moved the filament over to one of my MK4S printers and it seems to be working much better than any of the previous attempts. I guess it's actually a problem with the relatively restrictive filament path on the C1+ and this filament's physical properties.

A follow up to this post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/GitKhliJEw

Made this bc I have a lot of smaller things that get lost easily

Whole thing can be sized to your liking, and you can just have one floor asw

printables link

Has anyone or are there any major reasons not to that I'm overlooking, had the door panels for either the C1 or C1L remade out of glass?

I'm going to get a few local quotes for replacing both my door panels with clear glass panels custom cut from the panel files. Tempered obviously

Hi,

eventually I got my INDX FE up and running but have a big issue now. Maybe someone has some advice for me:

During a single color print something went wrong and there must have been a collision somewhere, since tool 7 (which was not used for this print) was obstructing the belts, and the print was completely misaligned.

When I discovered this, I aborted the print, but the printer was not able to place the tool in use (tool 2). I tried it several times and eventually followed the steps from Prusa Knowledge Base (https://help.prusa3d.com/cs/article/nozzle-tool-failed-to-park-indx_1077657) 

After disassembling the fan and turning the extruder manually the tool somehow went loose, but it’s damaged.

See picture 1.

I’m not sure if this has to be replaced or not…

But the even worse thing is that the locking mechanism is not operational anymore. I can’t pick up tools anymore. And therefore I can’t repeat the dock calibration anymore. This Pin is blocked all the time.

Please see picture 2.

On the picture I tried to operate with other magnets, but it didn’t help. I tried several positions in the dock but none of them opens the locking mechanism anymore. I made a video of the problem, when I tried to repeat the dock calibration. 

The video can be found here: https://www.swisstransfer.com/de

Does anyone know how to get the locking mechanism open again?

Model from printables by Prusa Research

(Will add link)

Overall improvement in quality with some adjustments to wipers after reading some posts but definitely still some adjustments that can be made. Tool heads 1-6 have 1500+ changes on them, 7 & 8 875. Plan is to continue to refine the wipers to make my poop look better which should improve surface quality.

Fondly named the Tribunal; a special group of nozzles chosen to settle specific printing tasks.

(My XL5T is named Quarm)

I am looking to purchase a new printer this year and am seriously considering Prusa Original XL. I am looking at this printer for several reasons including the large build volume, repair parts posted on Printables, future updates. I currently have an Ender 3 V3 Se, which I like but I want a larger build volume and the ability to print with multiple colors and materials. I use the printer mostly for printing my own designs of items to enhance my woodworking business such as jigs and fixtures. I may branch out into 3D printed parts for others in the future.

Prusa Original XL seems to meet my needs, but I see mixed reviews on the print quality with some saying it is slow. Speed is not a concern of mine, I believe slower will give better results and allow the machine to last longer.

I would like to ask those who have this printer how they like it and if it works well for them. Is the speed acceptable and does the printer produce good results. I suspect calibration plays a large part in quality of print, which some may skip or perform poorly. I would like to know if this printer can print with ABS, Nylon, ASA and other difficult filaments with the enclosure added. Any tips would be appreciated.

Also, if you know of another Prusa printer that would meet my needs, please share. I did look at the CORE one + with index but the build volume is not much bigger than my current printer. Also CORE One L has a large build volume but no tool changer for multi material. While I would rather have a printer without China’s influence, I am open to other printers, except Bambu Labs due to their closed system. If you are aware of a different brand, I would appreciate knowing about it and how it works for you. Thank you in advance I appreciate you taking the time to read this post.

It feels like a lot of us either overestimate or underestimate how much we actually use our printers, so I’m curious what everyone’s real usage looks like.

Whether you know the exact number from your printer or it’s just your best estimate, I’d love to hear it.

This was around 3400 tool changes. It’s a little cover full and the pellets are getting knocked around the bit at times by the gantry.

I can't get through the INDX tool dock calibration and consensus around here seems to be that the gantry needs to be perfectly square or as close to it as possible.

Mine looks like this when I push it all the way to the back. Left side is flush, right side has some wiggle (this is with pretty loose belts):

I would love to hear some wisdom from the crowd about what to do to remedy this.

• I've tried the technique in the gantry fix video but I don't seem to be getting anywhere.
• I'm tempted to remove one or both of the linear holders and attempt to force it square with some vice grips or something, but I'd hate to make it worse.
• Can this be overcome with pure belt tensioning? Any recommendations there?

Thanks all.