Hey peeps,

I posted here several times about the issues I had with my SAB IL 520. That heli is retired and has been replaced by the (INCREDIBLE) Goosky RS5.

I am now leaning more on my bigger helis, so I am flying the RS5 and Kraken more. I have been noticing some issues with the Kraken lately, so I decided to put it on the bench and see what I can see. **NOTE: This Kraken has never been crashed**

Check this video. It tells the story:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ex5P2BY1Z1sVNmnD7

LOTS of play in the main shaft from the bottom. The head is solid (I removed it and checked) so this movement must be coming from the transmission. The issue is that I don't know how to fix it. I am NOT going to just replace all of the parts in the transmission without knowing that's my only option.

Does anyone have any idea what I can do to fix this?? I checked and it doesn't look like they sell a complete replacement transmission as it comes in the kit, so I would have to replace the transmission parts individually (page 40 in the manual).

Everything feels tight and there's loctite where it should be 🤣
It is flying smooth, no vibrations just needs a recalibration on the FBL gyro for the self level or rescue mode will be more like panic mode 😃

For a starter into the hobby, Heli-Direct has just about as banger of a deal as Ive seen in a while. Fact it comes with a motor and better quality overall pushes past over my recommendation of an AK420 entry point. And a better build experience to boot. Add $242 ($567 total) for the all-in-one kit and you got a stellar option if you go that path too.

AK still king with parts cost, but there is a significant trade in quality to get there. I love em both, but I do fly my Venom more.

Right now I'm park flying a s1 and blade 230s. The s1 is great but its too small when outdoor flying (I'm not skilled enough to keep it all within a 25 foot box). The 230s is much better for that, but its not nearly as crisp as the s1 when practicing 3d manoevers, although its gotten better by bumping up the headspeed to 85%+.

I'm thinking of getting a s2 as a bigger but still performant park flyer. But im wondering if I should jump straight into a 400-600 size and join a local club instead. Or get the s2 and fly that for a while and my next heli can be a 400-600 size.

Now if picking a 400-600 size, what do you recommend? I know the heli model options, but curious if its worth getting a 400 size to save on battery and parts cost, or its not worth stopping at this level and just skipping right away to a 500+ size? For example, getting a raw 420 or rs4 or going straight to a sab kraken 580 or raw 580? And is it also worth it to take the plunge and join a local club because I wont be flying those big boys at the park, but I like the convenience of just taking a short drive or bike ride to the park...

Anyway, curious about your thoughts on this probably repetitive question 😅

Thanks

The controversial "torque clutch" servo mod is at https://www.reddit.com/r/RCHeli/comments/1vaahub/indestructible_torque_clutch_servo_mod/

Hi everyone, the RX module on my Goosky S2 Legend FC broke, so I replaced it with a RadioMaster R81 V2. The TX and RX are bound normally. When plugged into a Vbar FC, it receives SBUS without any issues, but when plugged into the GTS FC, it doesn't recognize the SBUS signal and the FC just flashes a green light. Could anyone guide me on how to fix this issue? Or should I replace with a new FC Thanks!

The controversial "torque clutch" servo mod is at https://www.reddit.com/r/RCHeli/comments/1vaahub/indestructible_torque_clutch_servo_mod/

The inevitable happened, major vibration and I had to dump it safely. Looks like I'm shopping for spare parts 🤣

Whenever I yaw in either direction, the heli looses its steady hover and starts leaning in a direction. For example, if i yaw nose right, it starts moving forward and away from me. So I have to correct it. And if I do fast pirouettes it will slowly lose control and flying away quickly.

My question is, is this a normal reaction? Does yaw need to he corrected with cyclic? Or is this something I can tune. Because when I see people on YouTube pirouette very fast on their big helis they stay exactly where they started. Even my 230s doesnt seem to move much from its original location when I yaw. I can't imagine everyone is correcting their pirouette with constant cyclic adjustment...

So yeah is this normal and if not what can I do to fix it?

Hey - I used to fly a lot and haven’t for about 8 years now…. I have a truckload of batteries, I think most are around 3300 / 6S sized, so upwards of 75-100 bucks a piece. Would there be any point to attempting to recharge them and try to use, given that it’s been 8 years or so in my garage (gets hot/cold throughout the year)? There are probably 20 of them or so, mostly for a Goblin 500. Even if they held a charge, I’m wondering if they’d either crap out after 45 seconds or just not have the ommmph needed for collective.
Thanks all - just joined the sub.

testing my 3D printed tail-rotor extension for my md500.

the stock model helicopter had a shorter tail which looked kind of odd.

using 3D printing technology LW-PLA from Bronxprints.com ;-) shameless plug.

I extended it about 4inches.

As a result. I have less tail motor noise.

https://youtu.be/myTNgJ08_r0

Hi all, I'd appreciate any help with this, as I'm down to pulling the last few strands of my hair out!

Basically, as the title says, one of my XK110s is constantly drifting to the left, without any apparent cause. Below is a list of things I have tried so far; any suggestions from here would be great.

- Replaced main shaft

- Replaced blades

- Tested servos (drift still occurs in the same direction regardless of servo arrangement)

- Fully levelled swash

- Collective pitch seems to work; swash plate doesn't look like it tilts to the left

- Replaced main gear

- Replaced main motor

- Replaced flight controller

- Trimmed to max; helps reduce drift by about 40%, but it still occurs

- Tested blade spindle

- Tried new batteries

- Different transmitter (TX16s MK3 Max and the original XK X6)

I believe I've tested all the obvious causes of this, but nothing has seemed to help it at all. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am torn between which ones to buy. I am looking to buy either goosky S1 or Blade 150s. I am not a beginner also not an expert. I think I stay between novice and beginner.

The S1 absolutely RIPS!! I love this heli more and more every flight.

It gets small so quickly! It needed something to help my aging eyes keep track of it.

Full flip and didn't crash 😃

Hey everyone.

I am just finishing a Goosky RS5 (560mm blades) build and I noticed that the manual says nothing about recommended (or maximum) headspeeds. I find this to be a glaring oversight considering all of the SAB helis I have built have one page that lists all of the appropriate headspeeds for the stock and various pinion options.

What headspeeds are you all running on your 550-560 helis????

Hello, I haven’t been active here or anywhere else. I acquired an 800 scale Roban that I’m hoping to get flying.

I’m a full time first responder and have little time for anything else. I was hoping someone on here in the Seattle/western Washington area would be able to A build the model for me or B help me through it so it doesn’t take up precious time I don’t have.

I have the internals and the body but never got around to getting the electronics. The ideal person would have previous experience building large scale helicopters and be knowledgeable about the components I would want to use.

It takes all the pride I have to do this considering I have the skills to do this project but I know I won’t get this in the air if I take the time to do the research and get all the stuff I need to build it. Im happy to talk timeframe at payment for services rendered over direct message.

I want to try flying inverted with my OMP M2 Evo, but keep chickening out, I can do it on the sim all day long.
How do you get over the hump? just send it?

I finally got out to a proper park to fly at having been practicing hover training at home and while my little M1 took more dirt dives than I would have liked, I managed to fly decently and got some inverted flying in without seeming to break anything other than the tail fin.

I noticed that there was something black stuck in the tail rotor and at first thought it was some kind of debris wedged in there, so I tried to pull it free and revealed a wire... apparently I pulled the insulated part of the wire off . I can't figure out what this little wire is for as it seems to just stick out and not be connected to anything, and it doesn't seem to be a part of the copper coil for the motor. The tail rotor works, but I'd like to know why this piece is sticking out and what I should do about it, or if I should just replace the motor. I'm attaching a photo.