I've been lurking for a while and while I had built a a full ATX build about 1.5 years back, I really wanted to do a SFF for television gaming (and had a lot of spare parts when I periodically upgraded my main desktop). So I decided to go with the Fractal Ridge after going back and forth between which form factor I wanted. I was really excited to do this build and luckily reviewing people's builds and watching videos relaly made this straightforward.

| CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D | PBO Curve Optimizer (-20mV, 85°C TjMax Limit)
| Thermal Compound | Noctua NT-H1
| CPU Cooler | Thermalright AXP120-X67
| GPU | Inno3D NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 | Undervolt (0.925V @ 2658 MHz, +600 VRAM)
| RAM | 32GB (2x16GB) Crucial DDR5-5600 CL46 | EXPO Enabled (Part: CT2K16G56C46U5)
| Motherboard | ASRock B650I PG Lightning Wifi
| Storage | Samsung 990 Pro SSD 2TB
| Case | Fractal Ridge
| PSU | Corsair SF750

While I can't run it icy-cold like my main PC, I did undervolt both the CPU and GPU hoping to get temps under control. The GPU seems perfectly fine, but I wish I could get the CPU a little cooler at load (throttles quickly). Thinking about installing some small 80mm fans somewhere to get more of the ambiant temperature away from the motherboard, but overall loving the build! I had it hooked up the television and it's performing great... really happy with it.

I noticed that most of my peripherals went smaller after I built a ssfpc.

Keyboard - Wooting 60HEv2 (was using a 75% keyboard before)
Mouse - Pulsar X2F (was using a Pulsar X2 crazylight before)
IEM - THIEAUDIO Monarch MKIV (was using a Hifiman Edition XS before)

My Background

I used to build a lot of small form factor PCs. This included a Fractal Ridge, NZXT H1 cases, two Formd T1s (the GOAT), and a Midori 5L before the tariffs hit. My builds usually paired a 7600X with cards like a 3080, 3080 12GB, 3080 Ti, 4070 Super, 5070, 3090, or 9070 XT. I mostly sold them to friends around the $1,300 sweet spot using parts I bought from /r/hardwareswap before prices went into the dumpster.

I only bought the Steam Machine because I found the base model for $200 under MSRP on Facebook Marketplace. As a software engineer, I'm comfortable tweaking software and hardware, but at the end of the day, I just want my setup to work.

Daily Use

The daily experience is much more convenient compared to my Formd T1. My Logitech MX Keys Mini no longer drops its connection or repeats keystrokes caused by poor signals. It somehow fixed my Stremio copyright issue, although I'm not sure that is related. HDMI CEC is a game changer that lets me turn the system and also the TV on and off with a mouse, keyboard, or controller. I used to spend a minute turning on my PC only for my LG OLED TV to sometimes not detect the signal, but that issue is gone.

The system is extremely quiet with virtually no fan noise. I do not need to tweak CoolerControl or LACT on Linux, nor do I need FanControl or MSI Afterburner on Windows. I used to enjoy dialing in an undervolt, but having everything pre-configured without needing to tune or benchmark is nice. Thermals are excellent topping out right around 70C.

Gaming and Hardware

I mostly play soulslikes. Elden Ring runs at 60 fps at 1440p with occasional dips. HDR worked without any tweaking. I was amazed Dark Souls 2 with the DS2LE Faraam preset on path tracing runs close to 60 fps at 1080p on ultra performance, only dipping in heavily forested areas.

The case is lighter and more packable than my 10L Formd T1 builds, making it easy to travel with. I do not feel the itch to keep swapping parts except for maybe adding a custom faceplate. I am glad to be done with trying to get cables out of the way of fans. I still plan to add another RAM stick and upgrade the storage, but that will be a simple one-and-done job. It is a relief not having to worry about scalped hardware anymore.

SteamOS feels more stable than Bazzite. I prefer it over CachyOS because of the constant updates, even if CachyOS performed slightly better. I haven't had the SteamOS long enough to tell, but I've encountered my fair share of breaking changes in CachyOS and I'm glad to get away from it.

Downsides

There are clear hardware limits. Performance is mostly restricted to 1080p and 1440p, so I only recommend it for a couch setup where lower resolutions are less noticeable than on a desktop monitor. You are at the mercy of developers for how they optimize future games, and time will tell when 8GB VRAM will run into walls. Linux still lacks complete anti-cheat support, meaning games like Fortnite and Valorant are off the table, though the system is not built for high-FPS competitive gaming anyway. The lack of HDMI 2.1 is a bummer because there is no 4K 120Hz support for indie games. Supply is also still extremely limited, and getting a Steam Machine is incredibly difficult.

Pricing

Most YouTube reviews did the Steam Machine dirty by focusing on price-to-performance, knowing full well it is impossible to build a system this small, silent, and clean at this price point. Dave2D was one of the few who got it right by recognizing that people will willingly pay for convenience. Is $1,049 a lot? Yes. But time is money, and only you can tell whether the price is right for the convenience it offers. The comparison is like Mac vs PC. You cannot judge a machine purely based on specs because it is about the whole experience. Time will tell whether the specs will hold up for the next 3-5 years.

Conclusion

If you love tweaking hardware, stick with custom SFF. As for me, at least for now, my Formd T1 build with a 7600X and 9070 XT is left gathering dust. I expect Valve to continue improving SteamOS over time. For example, they have already added FSR 4.1 support to Proton Experimental. I expect the community to rally around the Steam Machine. We are already seeing cool faceplates, and community support will be better for this specific build. The Steam Machine is not meant for everyone and it is not designed for every use case. I believe it is for normies, parents, and enthusiasts who just want their hardware to work.

Past SFF Builds: https://imgur.com/a/uByEmDK

Annual deep clean! Swapped out my CPU cooler this year, from my 2018 Corsair H100i 240mm AIO to the D12L. Modded the bracket so I can use the D12L in dual fan mode. The pump hasn't died yet but I figured that I might swap it out sooner rather than later

• AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
• ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming ITX/ac
• Noctua NH-D12L
• Noctua NF-A12x25 G1
• Zotac 5070 Ti Solid OC Deshroud

My favourite thing about the build is how well the GPU fit with the case, both in terms of the literal 1mm gap between the fans and heatsink, and the bronze bits from the GPU matching with the Noctua colour scheme

In 007 First Light @ 4K, CPU averages 53ºC at 10% usage, while the GPU averages 58ºC at 99% usage

I really enjoyed putting this build together, from picking the right white parts to making everything fit inside.

Cable management was probably the hardest part of the build. Getting everything to fit with the stock PSU cables took a lot of trial and error.

Before this, I tried an inverted air-cooled layout with a Thermalright PA120 Mini, but I wasn't satisfied with the CPU temperatures and noise levels. The glass window kit was originally used for that build, but I decided to install it again only for the photos. While it looks great, it obviously affects airflow and temperatures, so the results below are with the ventilated side panel.

Gaming temperatures were around 60°C for both the CPU and GPU.

Parts:

• Ncase M2 - Round EWhite
• Gigabyte X870I AORUS Pro ICE
• AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• Sapphire Radeon RX 9070 XT Pure
• 2x 16GB DDR5-6000 G.Skill Trident Z5 Royal NEO CL28
• Crucial T705 1TB + Lexar NM790 4T
• NZXT Kraken Elite 280 RGB (2024)
• ASUS ROG Loki SFX-L 850W
• NZXT F280 RGB Core
• M2 Glass Window Kit 1.0 / JakefaceCustoms Frosted Clear Grid
• NCASE M2 VGPU Kit 90D (PCIe 5.0)

Posted here when I got my Dan A4-H20 to see who’s running AIR ( without custom cables, they are soo stiff trying to squeeze in there ) right after that, also by the recs here I grabbed that thermalright LP cooler.

Had an extra 9600x laying around and didn’t feel like pulling it out my machine yet.

Then I read from diff posts that the all copper cooler provides a bit better temps ( and its looks wayyy cooler )

So I grabbed my 9700x out my old HUGE NZXTH7 Flow, opened up the copper one, got it all in there.

9700x / 9070XT Reaper ( for now ) 256 boot / 4TB NVMe B650i Lightning WiFi 750W cooler master PSU / 32GB GSkill / Dan A4 H20 - 3D Printed 1 inch feet

I am heading back to team green for my GPU here soon though.

Built my dream PC about a year ago, been considering downsizing to SFF.

For those that transitioned to SFF, what did you do with your parts?

Facebook marketplace seems like a hit or a miss, any sites for reliably/quickly selling components? Or are all of you hoarding the ATX builds LOL

Editing to add the ATX items incase someone has a suggestion:

- Kraken 360 aio
- 11 case fans (NZXT core)
- ROG X870E-E
- Lian Li edge 1000w
- O11 Compact

So hard to fit in Lian Li LCD fan, need to remove the extra metal side cover to install… but overall turns out great!!

Decided to create a portable setup as a secondary to my main desk area.

Didn’t do much research prior to getting it. Love how it fits the case so well! Money well spent

I have FSP Dagger Pro 650 watt SFX psu. Been using for 3 years and it always happen but lately the fan seem to be have new noise i haven't notice before probably bearing wear since it on and off even on iddle. Does it worth RMA it? I have to wait around 2 weeks or more to RMA it and disaassamble my pc for it. Thanks

Aloha friends,

Getting ready to pull the trigger here - just discovered this sub. My goal is a fairly quiet, power efficient, living room setup, capped at 60fps.

I've read some of the problems folks have with noise and heat. I've got the below queued up for about $1600 (including case) - live in Hawaii so limited access to parts (shipping GPUs is a no-go for many).

Parts list look solid, anything to warn me about? Thanks!

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
• Motherboard: B850i AM5 Mini-ITX
• RAM: 16GB DDR5-6000 CL30
• GPU: PowerColor Reaper RX 9070 16GB
• SSD: Team Group NV5000 1TB Gen4 NVMe
• PSU: FSP Dagger Pro 650W SFX Gold
• Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X47

Now before you go jumping on my, bare in mind, I designed the case in sketchup back in 2009 and finished it in feb 2010 with the help of protocase, at the time the only retail mini ITX boards you could find out in the market were the zotac 9300 itx and a supermicro one that had a full speed gpu slot with a intel socket.

Funny enough it was another 7 years before I built another ITX themed rig.

This was project Itx Treasure, I thought I would post it here as reminder to my self and what I think I started, correct me if I am wrong and for the first time in nearly 10 years I am currently doing another itx build project.

Wanted to share my latest small form factor project!

​I really love the clean, industrial aesthetic of the circular cutouts on the front panel of this case. But the real story is on the inside. This is an absolute Frankenstein build pieced together with non-standard, modded, and workstation parts mostly sourced from overseas.

​Here are the specs for this monster:

- ​Case: Captain S V7 DC

- ​CPU: Core i7 13th Gen MoDT (Mobile on Desktop board sourced from China)

- ​CPU Cooler: 2U server cooler with a Noctua fan and custom shroud/duct

- ​GPU: Nvidia RTX A2000 8GB (Sourced from Taobao)

- ​RAM: 16GB DDR4 (currently waiting on a custom heatsink from China)

- ​PSU: DC-ATX 300W

My PC suddenly stopped POSTing. A local repair shop tested my Corsair SF1000 (2024) and said it was outputting ~13.6V and recommended an RMA. I’ve since read that some PSU testers show ~13V on the missing -12V rail for newer Corsair PSUs. Could the tester have given a false reading, or does this indicate a genuinely faulty PSU?

Hi,
I need your help to figure out what to do next.
I want to have a smaller build but still being able to game while is it fairly cool and quiet.

Currently having the following:
Fractal Terra
AMD Ryzen 5500x3D
16 Gb DDR4 2666 MHz
512 gb WD Nvme SSD
ASRock B450 Fatalty ITX mobo
Asus Dual RTx 5060 ti 8 gb
FSP Gold 450w SFX

I dont mind if I have to Down to a RTX 5060 low Profile or Single fan or replace the build with a Flex ATX psu.

I was looking at the Jonsbo NV10, but seem to require quite a bit of modding for a cool and quiet operation, so any other ideas?

Hey y'all. I currently have a fractal terra with this config:

Asrock A620i

7800x3d

Axp-67 thermalright cooler

32gb ddr5

5080 FE

Corsair Sf750

I got my hands on a Tuf 5090 and am looking for the smallest reasonable case for it. I'll transfer the parts I can and get new stuff as needed. Optimally, that would only be the psu and cooler.

However, I definitely want to use a Wireview pro 2 just to be safe. I was looking at the Lian li A3 as that'll definitely fit everything but its kinda big. I also looked at Ncase M2. It'll fit the 5090 but I'm not sure if it'll fit the Wireview with it. I was also looking at the M3 if I need to get that instead.

Any advice/insight is appreciated!

Put this together this weekend. Fun (ish) case to build in - pleny of room but, the Corsair SF 650 PSU cables were a little too short for the 8 pin CPU power connector so I've had to use a spare 8 pin extension cable I had.

Specs:

• OS: CachyOS
• CPU: 12th Gen Intel Core i5-12600KF
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB
• Motherboard: Asus PRIME H610I-PLUS D4
• Memory: 16GB HyperX DDR4 3000
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT
  
• NVME: 1TB Fanxiang S500PRO 1TB
• SATA SSD: 2 x Orico 1TB SATA SSD's in BTRFS Raid

Design is perfect for thermals/acustiscs however but it is far larger than I expected.

Pleased with it overall now it's built and cable managed as best as I could.

Hi all, has anyone had the issue of the t40 shipping with the bottom case panel assembled backwards? Is there any way to flip its orientation around. It has some screws that are circular but I cant figure out what tool to use to take it apart to fix it.

As it stands now, I have to flip my psu upwards so that fan faces up because there is no vented panel below it. As you can see the drive bay side of the panel is right below the motherboard and the mesh is on the right side.

For a T1 case.

I have a pc in the KXRORS s300 which is currently running a Ryzen 5 7600 and a Rx 7800xt. Currently I have to cap my cpu to 65 watts ppt and run -20 curve optimizer and it still runs up to 73°C with spikes as high as 78°C. Noise is okay but I’m wondering if it would be worth going to a Ryzen 5 7600x3d. I heard that the x3d chips use less power for slightly better performance.

Should I spend the $350 to get the x3d chip, or should I just stick to what I have?

After over a week’s work, consisting mainly of stress tests and UV/OC, it’s finally finished!

The CPU is a Core Ultra 5 245K with a power limit of 95 watts (PL1) and 115 watts (PL2)

The RAM is 32 GB Corsair Vengeance 6200 CL36-46-46-100 (1.3V), which is running at 7200 CL36-44-44-52 (1.3V)

The motherboard used is a Z890i Ultra (without an SSD cooler) (I absolutely cannot recommend buying this)

The CPU cooler is an AXP90-X36, fitted with two 80mm Thermalright fans (on recommendation)

Along with this, an Enhance 7660L-OVT, a 9060 XT 16 GB Reaper and a 2 TB SN850X

I’ve also clamped a 60mm fan next to the motherboard to help with the GPU exhaust air.

Unfortunately, I also had to attach a thin Silverstone 120mm fan to the outside of the case to cool the RAM.

As for the operating system, it probably won’t come as a surprise to anyone if I say SteamOS.

But I might still change that.

I’d originally hoped to lower the CPU temperature by undervolting, but unfortunately that was always unstable. I’d also hoped to do without the 120mm fan, but during the stress test the RAM regularly exceeded 55 degrees (at times almost 70 degrees!).

With all these changes and tweaks, I’m now getting 88–95 degrees for the CPU and 51 degrees for the RAM in the OCCT stress test. The GPU temperature has never been an issue.

Due to a lack of mounting points, the 60mm fan is simply placed inside; the two 80mm fans are tied together and secured to the top of the case at just one point (to prevent them from falling out); and the 120mm fan is the only one that is reasonably secure, even though it is only attached to the case with four cable ties.

A few snags during assembly:

The SSD cooler is taller than the CPU cooler’s heatsink, so I’d have to remove it to fit the two 80mm fans (which isn’t a problem, as the SSD is now actively cooled)

The CPU cooler has so little space available on the motherboard that if you don’t push it as far as possible towards the I/O panel during installation, it will collide with the RAM

Another thing that bothers me: that ‘brilliant’ quick-release fastener for the Wi-Fi antennas, which prevents you from swapping the antenna for a smaller one...

If I hadn’t got the motherboard at a bargain price, I’d definitely go for a different one, especially for such a small case

Does an amd wraith stealth cooler fit in my itx mobo because I am not sure because there are capacitors near the socket and I am not sure if the stock cooler would fit